Download Sears OVERLOCK 385. 564180 Owner`s manual

OWNER'S
MANUAL
OVERLOCK
MODEL 385.
3j4
564180
Dear Customer:
You
have just
instructions
invested
Specific
instructions
expense
tor conditions
Advtce
in a very
on how to operate
on tile
or need parts
Safety
fine
overtock.
and care for your
are gLven on threading,
beyond
operation
using
your
new
Kenmore
machine,
please pause for a moment
and carefully
read this
booklet
which
tension
adjustments,
cleaning,
oiling,
etc.
This will
help you
obtain
the best sewing
results
and avoid
unnecessary
always
mention
machine
is always
the model
number
available
at your
nearest
and serial number
when
Sears Retail
you
Store.
Please remember,
if you have questions
about
your
inquire.
Cautions:
e
Be sure that
e
Disconnect
the electrical
the power
This efiminates
e
All covers
e
Do not pull
e
Before
e
e
voltage
supply
must be closed
the fabric
cleaning
your
machine,
Do not
attempt
to adjust
Handle
the foot
control
e
Closely
watch
e
Use only
disconnect
by accidentally
as this may deflect
the power
belt.
Contact
care and avoid
the area being sewn to avoid
to lift
is the same as the rated
changing
needles,
pressing
presser foot
the foot
voltage
of the motor.
or needle plate,
or when
control.
the machine.
are stitching
the motor
with
when
the machine
operating
you
(wall receptacle)
from the wall outlet
of sta_ing
when
while
of the wall outlet
plug
the possibility
the handle
contains
service
our control.
and care of your
and service,
Before
machine.
your
dropping
injuries
supply
the needle,
plug from
nearest
Service
it on the floor.
from
needles
causing
it to break.
the walt outlet.
Center should
any adjustment
Be sure not to place anything
be required.
on top of it.
and knives.
and move the machine,
Kenmore Overiock
Record in space provided below the model number and serial
number of this appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 3 of
this booklet.
Model No, 385,
Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future reference.
leaving
the machine
unattended.
machine
TABLE
SECTION
1.
KNOW YOUR MACHINE
Locate and Identify the Parts ...............
Identify the Accessories .....................
SECT! ON
2.
OFCONTENTS
PREPARE YOUR MACHINE
Attaching
the Presser Foot ....................
Changing Needle ...........................
To Disengage the Upper Knife ..................
To Engage the Upper Knife
......................
Types of Needle Plates .......................
Changing the Needle Plate
.....................
Thread and Needle Chart
...................
3_4
4
FOR SEWING
Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
Foot Control Use ....
......................
How to Turn Hand Wheel .......................
....
Opemng and Closing the Side Cover ................
Opening and Closing the Looper Cover .............
The Position of Thread Guide Bar
...............
6
6
7
Attaching
the Spool Cap
Raising or Lowering
the
Threading
the Machine
e Threading
the Lower
e Threading
the Upper
e Threading
the Needle
e Threading
the Needle
7
8
and Net ...............
Presser Foot
...............
.....................
Looper
...............
Looper .............
on the Right ...........
on the Left
............
Rolled Hemming,
Picot Edging and
Narrow Hemming
........................
Decorative
Overedging
..................
Pin Tucking
..............................
5
5
6
SECTION
4.
SECTION
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE
32_34
35
36
CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Cleaning Upper Knife Area ..................
Cleaning the Feed Dog .....................
Replacing the Light Bulb ....................
Oiling the Machine
..........................
Replacing the Upper Knife ...................
9_17
t0_11
12"13
14_15
t6_17
5.
27
28
29
29
30
30
31
PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS
37
37
38
39
40
CHART
STITCHES
What to Do When
Starting Sewing ........................
Finishing Sewing ...........................
Sewing Continuously ........................
Securing Ends ...........................
Thread Tension (4 threads) ...................
Threading the Machine (3 threads) ................
Thread Tension (3 threads) ...................
Adjustment of Stitch Length ...................
Adjustment of Foot Pressure ...................
Removing the Presser Foot .....................
18
!8
18
19_20
21"_23
24
24_25
26
26
27
PARTS
LIST
INDEX
Specification
........................
........................................
4t
42
............................................
43
of the Machine
44
..............................
Thread guide bar
Carrying handle
Face plate
\
Right needle
thread tension dial
-Stitch tength
dial
Thread guide
Spool pin
Thread
thread
take-up
Spool holder
lever
gude
Let[ needle
thread tension
Spool stand
dia!
Need le
thread guide
Rigilt needle
tllread guide
NomencLature
Side cover
Upper looper
thread guide (t)
Upper looper thread
tension dial
Plug
connector
Lower looper
thread gude (1)
Power switch
Lower looper thread
tension dial
Looper cover
Hand wheel
Looper thread
guide
Foot control
plate
Needle
clamp
Upper
knife
Needle
ptate
screws
Needle bar thread guide
Needle clamp
Presser foot
Needle plate
/
Foot holder
Upper looper
set screw
Upper looper thread guide
Knife
holder
Screwdr _vers
Lower looper
QQ
QQ
Upper looper
thread guide (2)
knife
Lower
thread
"!_
Lower looper
thread guide (2)
Spool
/
Tweezers
Looper
threader
caps
looper
guide 14)
Lower
thread
looper
guide (3}
Set of
need les
Thread
cutter
Rolled hemming
needle plate
Needle bar
0
Presser foot
lifter
Presser bar
Foot holder
set screw
Nets
Lint
Lower looper
thread gutde (5}
Upper
knife knob
Accessory
box
brush
supply
_
_
_
J_w_
_
_t_
_
_
h
Swit_
_d
_a
chrin_
a
_M
i_
_
_
i_
_
_IU_
_r
Power
plug
supply
Power
/
switch
Foot control
J
4.
conneCtOr
Your
inserting
machine,
be
the
sure
plug
the
into
power
your
switch
is
OFF,
Check
Volt
2,
insert
plug
your
outlet
to be sure it is a 110to
120
machine
connector,
|nsert
outlet.
the
power
will
light/power
switch
interrupted
or
light/power
switch
not
Is turned
stop
sewing,
to
regulates
To increase
speed,
ball
foot.
of your
plug
as shown,
into
the
_t wilt
supply
plug
gently
unless
the
To "decrease speed,
If you
are
stightty.
on,
turn
prevent
control
the
speed at which
you sew,
light.
operate
The foot
off
the
injury
to
NOTE:
The
foot
wilt
press down
release
your
control
increase
or
foot
with
is sensitive
decrease
speed immediately.
Practice
three-prong
sewing
your
only
needs.
fit one
_nto
the
wall
to
and
your
to reguiate
speed
the
pressure
on a scrap of fabric
way.
3.
to turn
sewing
AC out_et.
the
and sewing
switch
FEATURE:
machine
children.
1,
and power
plug
SAFETY
Before
light
on the power
Machine
Power
switch
NOTE:
Push the
taste
your
and
¸¸,
Side
_eel
Looper cover
Always
turnhandwheeltowardyou.
To open:
To open:
Push the side cover to the left.
While
pushing
with
it will
go, pull
looper
the thumb
to the right
cover toward
as far as
you.
To close:
Push the side cover to the right and slightly toward
the mach}ne body,
For Your
Safety:
Always
close both
machine
is in use.
side and looper
covers
when
the
To close:
Lift looper cover and push against the machine.
The looper cover snaps into the position automatically,
• v ":: :: ! =i::_:L•¸": •:i/>;: ?i:¸ :! • ••i_•LI/h :¸" _'_•i':'_ ,:i::•j!:j ii:¸ >!:i::
The Position 0fThread
:-:•7_:••:• :•_ _" :
•/:=::-•
GuideBar
e bar
Spool cap
|Thread
gutde
|
i
I I1"_ _!
1
,
lJ?l
]
i
, 11_-I_s,o_4,,
i
_
|
1
|
!
=
I H----J
Jl II
,
_II fi
o
V
Spool
!
pin
u
N
LOI
®
__.
,o
(_
Pull the thread
guide bar up as far as it will
go.
(_
When you use a small thread
with
Turn
the
thread
gutdes are right
guide
bar so that
above the spool
pins.
the
spool,
its slit side up, and put spool
remove
the spool
holder
from
the spool
pin.
sewing,
put
Then
place the spool
cap on top.
thread
2_
If the
thread
illustrated
slips
down
from
for preventing)ammlng.
the spool
during
threading
The nets are supplied
and/or
with
the machine.
a net on the spool
as
,; Raising.
"_ ;'=_,_:
o_
T:_,:_"_
L;,._o
_=_,,:werin=
, _,.g
_ =thePresser
_'=
_=.,:_.._ Foot,
=,
_feSSer
_oOt Iifter
By raising
or lowering
the presser foot
While in operation,
lowered
threading
weight
NOTE:
except
the
the
presser
foot
lifter,
goes up and down.
keep the
for
machine
presser
testing
or
sewing
foot
stitches,
heavy
fabrics.
Thread tension will not be released
if the presser foot is raised.
::iIT
: h _ead inglthe Mach ine I
For
I. Green
|
3.Blu e_------___,::2_]
IJ
p.Orano -
convenience,
of threads,
Connect
,_'k
I\
your
choice
your
follow
Kenmore
ovedock
these simple
the power
has been pre-threaded.
To prepare
to sew with
your
instructions:
supply
plug to
the wall
outlet
bar to
highest
pos+tion;
and turn
on the power
switch
(Page 5in owner's
cover
(Page 6 in owner's
manual).
--
Raise
thread
guide
open
side cover
and Looper
manual).
---
Untie knot holding threads together.
Place a thread cone on far right spool
farthest
on right
--
Pull thread,
-
Place
guiding
a second
cone to thread
-
Pull thread,
--
Place a third
guiding
Pull
thread,
presser
of
right
from
right
located
through
on
knot
tension
the
second
tie
end of thread
from
from
cone to
thread
Knife
may
disc, thread
from
tension
right.
guides
left
spool
through
and upper
end of thread
from
tie end of thread
from
looper.
Securely
give
guides,
on
needle.
to
tie
guide bar (BLUE)+
Clip thread
lowered
looper.
Securely
holder.
disc and thread
manual).
be
from
bar (RED).
left on thread
new thread
guides and lower
holder
guide
second
through
and thread
easier.
Securely
disc, thread
spool
on thread
(Page 27 +n owner's
needle
threading
f
tension
on second
cone
guiding
foot
through
cone
knot
thread
holder+
guide bar (GREEN).
knot
thread
second
cone to thread
-
of thread
both
Before
Use looper
you
more
reaching
sides of knot.
room
needle,
threader
or tweezers
to
(Page 29
work
remove
Pull old thread
out
to make
in owner's
manual).
-
Place a fourth
thread
-
Pull
cone of thread
on far left of thread
thread,
thread
guiding
on both
on spool
holder
at far left.
Securely
tie end of thread
from
cone to
guide bar (O RANGE),
knot
through
sides of knot.
tension
Pull
disc
old thread
and
out
thread
of left
guides.
needle
Before
reaching
and thread
new
needle,
thread
clip
through
needle.
+
Pull
both
sides
of
thread
firmly
between
each
tension
disc
(Pages 11,
13,
15,
17
in owner's
manual),
-
Refer to threading
-
Gently
-
behind
tooper cover)
Replace
manual).
Threading Chart
(Located
pull
chart
behind
all four thread
presser foot
Turn
-
Place fabric
hand wheel
NOW READY
toward
under
cover to check
back
(Page 27 in owner's
Close side cover
-
looper
ends towards
the
and looper
you
toe
TO BEGIN
to chain
of
the
manual).
cover
off
presser
threading
paths.
of machine.
Return
knife
(Page 6 in owner's
three
foot;
or four
to up position
(Page 29 in owner's
manual).
stitches.
it is not
necessary
to raise the
foot,
YOU
ARE
SERGING!
9
e Threading the Lower Looper
®
Thread guide
\
Looper thread gutde
4
1
Thread guide
plate
(9
_
(_)
.......................
Draw
J
the
thread
through
the right side thread
from back to front.
®
(_
guide
®
Pass
the
holes
on
thread
thread
the
guide
through
right
side
of
plate
as iliu-
strated,
How to Thread the Lower
(_)
Pass the
right
thread
side
sliding
the
10
*
[
Points
to thread
in green.
for
lower
looper
are marked
thread
to right.
as shown
in the figure
and remove
Thread the lower looper and then re-thread the needles.
i
through
thread
Looper
Cut the both needle threads
them from the needles.
Open the looper and side covers.
Loosen screw and remove presser foot assembly.
Place the spool of thread on the right side spool pin.
of
from
the
guide
left
._-
looperIk-k
%._-___
I
g_,de
I_l 31_ EL;xT..Looper
I
"
/
|
,..oooo,
_
(_)
Insert
the thread
discs
from
the
between
right
tension
Then
both
sides of the thread
between tension discs,
pull
(_)
Pass the thread
_)
Pass the
firmly
take-up
(_)
(_)
Pass
the
looper
thread
thread
guide
through
threader
//
0 ,deI41
I\IIhl
I\ /,
Lower looper
Looper li_read
Lower
!
looper thread I
_
lower
thread
through
through
the thread
the
gutde
looper
(2}.
(_
thread
lever (lower).
Pass the
thread
through
__
Turn
the
hand
wheel
toward
you
until
the
Iower
looper
comes
to the
threader
through
the
thread
guides
tooperthread
f3) and I4).
Hook
(1),
the
__
I
w
(_
Putt
left,
pass the
hole on lower
guide
on the
threader,
Woolly
NylonlPolyester
pass
the
hote
of
and
draw
the
thread
through
the
hole
on
lower
looper
to Thread
to
the
threader,
with
How
threader
through
lower looper thread guide (5}.
Remove
the thread
from
the
(5).
end of thread
the
thread
10
cm
(4"')
or
more
a pair of tweezers.
Thread
d
Thread _
Lower looper
[
*
Make sure that
the tenston
the thread
is between
discs.
Ordinary
thread
/
Tension discs
*
To
pass
WoolIy nyion/pio!yester
the woolly
easiest ways
*
nylon/polyester
thread
thread
shown
above is one of the
to do so.
Use the same method
for the upper
looper,
11
e Threading the Upper Looper
i./
thread
guide
Thread
guide
&
p_ate
C)
Draw
the
thread
the
thread
from
the
guide
right
from
through
Pass the thread
through
the
second
(_)
holes
in
second
row
back to
from
the
front,
guide plate
How to Thread
the Upper
the
right
Place
from
I
12
*
the
spool
of
thread
on
the spool
pm
second
the right.
Points
marked
to red,
thread
in
for
upper
Iooper
are
Pass the
left
thread
thread
side
sliding
as illustrated,
of
through
thread
the thread
from
to left,
Looper
Turn
Lower looper
threa#
of
(_
upper
Upper looper
the
hand
looper
wheel
comes
travel,
and
looper
from
unhook
Thread
the upper
the upper
toward
to the
the
thread
looper.
looper.
you
middle
until
point
of
the
the
of its
lower
the
guide
right
Loope_
threader_
/Uppe_
-,_
_(_
fooper
toope_
thread
_
lhread
,ens,on dia,
J
Insert
_)
the
thread
between
the right,
Then
pufl both
Pass the
thread
through
guide
(1).
tension
discs
from
(_
sides of thread.
upper
looper
Pass the
thread
through
upper
looper
thread
guJde (2).
thread
(_
Pass the thread
up lever (upper).
(_
Pass the
thread
through
upper
looper
thread
through
the hole on the upper
gu _de.
through
the looper
thread
take-
Pass the threader
looper,
Then
threader.
thread
from
Pull
through
threader,
hook
the end
out
the
the
hole.
and draw
of
thread
threader
Remove
the
to
on the
pass
the
the
thread
free end of thread
10 cm (4"} or more.
13
e
Threading
the Needle
on the
Right
_
Thread
gu+de
®
(_
Draw
the thread
through
the thread
second from the left from back to front.
guide
(_)
Pass
second
the
as illustrated.
©
Place the
from
14
spool
of thread
on the spool
pin second
the left.
+ Points to thread
for
are marked in blue.
needle
on
the right
]
/
thread
row from
through
the
holes
the left of thread
+n
the
guide plate
Needie thread
Thread take-up
lever thread guide
_
guide
_
Needte bar
t
thread guide
Right needle
thread guide
tension
Right needle
dial
threat
(_
Insert the thread between tension discs from
the right. Then pull both sides of thread.
®®
Turn
the
need{e
the
hand
wheet
toward
bar to its highest
thread
through
guide and thread
you
position,
right
take-up
..............
to
bring
then
needle
leverthread
®
Pass the thread through
the thread
the thread from teft to right.
(_
Pass through
pass
gwde
sliding
thread
guide.
needle
bar thread
guide
from
left
to right.
(_
Thread
the
back
and
from
the
right
pull
needle
the
eye of the
from
thread
needle
the front
about
to the
10
to the
cm
back
(4")
under
the foot.
NOTE;
Needle may be easier to thread if you
remove presser foot (See page 27) and
tower knife (See page 29).
15
e
Threading
the Needle
on the Left
®
Thread
guide
Thread
plate
(_)
0
Place the spool
*
Points
marked
16
of thread
to thread
in orange.
on the left side spool
pin.
for needle on the teft are
Draw the thread through
the thread
the le/t from back to front,
guide
on
(_)
Pass the
thread
of thread
guide plate
through
the
gutde
holes on
as illustrated,
the left
-
Gently
pull
all four
thread
ends towards
back of
machine.
_=
Needle
guide
I
needle thread
[ension dial
-
Replace
-
Return
--
Close side and looper
-- Turn
or four
_-_
-Needle bar
thread 0
presser foot
knife
hand
wheel
(See page 29).
covers.
toward
you
to chain
off
three
stitches.
Place fabric
is not
(See page 27}.
to up position
under
necessary
the toe of the
presser
foot;
it
to raise the foot,
\
lever thread
Thread
take-up
guide
[_
2®
(_
(_
......J
Insert the thread between
tension
discs
the right.
Then pull both sides of thread.
from
Turn
bring
needle
thread
gu ide.
the
hand
wheel
bar to its highest
through
thread
toward
you
to
®
Pass the
thread
the thread
position,
then pass the
take-up
lever
®
through
from
Pass through
right
needle
the thread
guide sliding
to left.
bar thread
guide
from
left
to right.
thread
_)
Thread
the
back
and
from
the
left
pull
needle
the
eye ot
from
thread
the
needle
the
front
about
10
to the
to
cm
back
the
(4")
under
the foot,
NOTE:
Needle
may
remove
presser
lower
knife
be easier
toot
to
(See
thread
page
if
you
27)
and
(See page 29}.
17
!iiii!ii
t
Thread
culler
3rio
J
(_,
(_)
(_)
Insert the
the foot.
(It
fabric
under
the
toe
ot
is not
Turn
you
the
necessary
hand
a couple
thread
chain.
slowly.
The
maticatly
fed,
the direction
18
stitching
continue
to
raise
the
fooL)
(_
When
wheel
of turns
Then
fabric
Guide
desired.
gently
toward
and check
start
will
the
the
sewing
be
auto-
fabric
in
Js
to produce
a thread
12 cm (5")
while
chain
completed,
to run the machine
slightly
chain
pulling
(_
Cut
the
threads
slowly
cutter
as illustrated,
for about
5 cm
(2"}
the thread
end of fabric.
thread
with
the
leaving
chain
thread
Insert
about
foot,
from
the
next
fabric
then
necessary
start
to
ordinary
under
the
sewing.
toe
It
raise the presser
of
is not
foot
for
fabric.
to the back,
For
heavy
presser
toot
weight
fabric,
and insert
front
of the knife.
Then
lower
the foot
raise the
the fabric
and sew,
m
Securing Ends
To avokd unravelling,
_t Is necessary
one of the lotlowmg
to leave a thread
chain
about
5 cm (2")
long at the beginning
and end of seam,
To secure the beginning
and end of a seam choose
methods.
At the Begmn|ng
A.
Separate
the end of threads
B.
Thread
C,
Cut the chain
D.
Backstitchmg
tile chain
t.
Before
2,
Put your
through
and knot,
a large eyed needle,
at the edge of fabric,
putting
your
fabnc
fabric
3,
Raise the presser foot
Place the
5,
After
thread
sewing
chain
about
apply
in the machine,
in the machine.
4,
Then
and bring
between
2.5 cm (t"},
Then
and weave that
a small
amount
sew a thread
the thread
chain
the chain
through
the overlock
of seam sealant
chain
serge a few stitches
the presser foot
move
chain
about
(Fray
5 cm (2")
stitches
Check
on the fabric.
TM or Fray-No-More
tong behind
TM)
on the end of the threads.
the needle.
and stop.
to the left around
and upper
to the right
knife,
and under
holding
and under
the presser foot.
it in position
the upper
knife,
as you lower
cutting
the presser foot
the chain
as you sew.
to sew,
t9
At the End
You can use the same methods
as at the beginning
to secure the end of seam except
"Backstttching",
or the methods
shown
below.
®®
(_
Serge one stitch
off
the end of seam.
(_)
®
20
Rinse
the needle
gently
pull
and presser
the threads
foot,
and
off the prong.
Turn the fabric over so that the under
sIde is up.
(_
Serge about
and angle off
2.5 cm (1")
the fabric.
over stitching
:Thread Tension (4 threads)
Thread
Tension
Dial
Correct
Thread Tension
Tension
f
Need Ie thread
tension (L)
Setting
Needle thread
tension (R)
mark
looper
Upper looper
thread tension
Loosen
L
_
Lower looper
thread tension
Tighten
Needle thread
on the rtght
J
The line
below
dials indicates
the
3 threads
sergmg,
ment
the
of
depending
on
setting
normal
however,
thread
the
of 3 on each of the
tension
tension
type
for 4 threads
an aiternate
of
may
fabric
or
adjust-
be required
and
thread
being used,
Refer to pages 22 and 23 for the adjustment.
21
Thread
*
Tension
Set all four
Wrong
Adjustment
thread
tension
dials at "3"
Then
sew, and check
Tension
the thread
tensions.
Wrong Tension
Correct
on the left ts loose.
)n the
Tension
is loose.
! upp
looper
thread
looper
thread
looper
thread
Cower
!:_:?::?
:::,'::i7; :of fab_tc':!?,_::_
looper
_thread
thread
Tighten
needle
thread
tenston
on
Tighten
the left.
Needle lhread
_enston tR)
Needle thread
tens}on (L}
O) Q
Upper looper
thread tenslotl
22
thread
tension
the right.
Needle thread
tension (L)
*
needle
It is easier to adjust
Lower
lhreed
looper
tenslon
by using 4 different
Upper
thread
colors
of thread.
Needle
tension
looper
tension
thread
(R)
Lower
thread
looper
tensior_
on
'):3::;:"i:'
:::;;71Needle thread
;_:;:{<;';;;::Jon the right
Wrong Tension
Wrong
Tension
thread
_er thread is tight and/or
read is loose.
is tlght
and/or
is loose.
looper
thread
Loosen
and!or
looper
thread
fewer
looper
thread
tension
Loosen
upper
looper
thread
tension
tighten
upper
looper
thread
and/or
ttghten
lower
looper
thread
tension.
tension.
Needle tt_read
tens_o_ ILl
Needle tl_tead
_enslon (R)
Needle thread
Ieos_on {L}
@@
Uppe[ looper
Lower
looper
the*cad
lt_read
tension
tenSlO_*_
Needle thread
_ens_on (RI
Upper leaper
thE'ead leas|on
Lower looper
lhrearJ tension
23
Using the Needle
(for narrow
on the Right
three-thread
Only
Using the Needle on the Left Only
(for wide three-thread sergtng)
sergmg)
Correct
Tension
_per looper
thread
Adjusting
the
depending
on the type
thread
tension
may
of fabric
used.
Refer to page 25 for the adjustment.
Disconnect
Remove
Then
tighten
slightly
Loosen
24
the
and
needle
from
the
the
thread
clamp
power
screw
on
suppiy.
the
Remove
left,
on the
Then
left
the
tighten
slightly
needle
the
and
needle
to avoid losing
the
thread
clamp
screw
on
the
right,
on the
right
the screw.
tosing the screw.
to the other
both
screw for
machine
needle
to avoid
To change
clamp
the
the
needle
the needle
needle
ciamp
in three-thread
screws
and remove
to be used while
screw on the other
serging
side slightIy
pushing
to prevent
the needle.
the
needle
Insert
the needle
up as far as it will
the screw from
dropping.
and tighten
go.
Then
the needle clamp
tighten
the
needle
be
required
and thread
being
Thread
"
Tension
Set alt three
Adjustment
thread
tension dials at "3"
Then
sew. and check
Wrong
Wrong Tension
the thread
tensions.
Tenston
Wrong Tension
_read is loose.
thread
!ep_!gqp_j_bread
is tight
::
; :i
: ::::::
Tighten
needle thread
tension.
Needle thread
tension {R }
Upper IDoper
thread tension
It Is easier to adjust
_
thread
:: ::of fabric :::::::::
Loosen
lower
looper
thread
tension
Loosen
upper
looper
thread
tension
and/or
t_ghten upper
looper
thread
andlor
tighten
lower
looper
thread
tension.
Needle thread
t_nsion (L!
NeedIe
Needle threed
tension (R)
tension
Lbread
IL)
Needte
tension
thread
(R)
@@
Lower looper
thread tens{o_
by using 3 different
tooper
1hread
looper
tension.
Needte thread
tet_ston (L)
is t_ght and/or
read is loose.
Upper
_
i::ii
)er thread
and!or
ts loose.
colors
Upper
looper
Lower
looper
thread
tension
lhread
tens{On
Upper
thread
looper
tension
Lower
thread
looper
lension
ot thread,
25
< Standard
Setting
Position
>
Top of the machine
\
decrease
\
To increase
scrsw
L
To select stitch
The larger
The stitch
5/! 28"
Posit_on
26
length,
the number,
length
View trom '*A"\
turn the dial.
It iS not necessary
the longer
When you
can be adjusted
the stitch.
from
1 to 5 mm,
(approx.
to adjust
the pressure
sew heavy or lightweight
-
clockwise
for heavyweight
-
counter-clockwise
for normal
fabrics,
sewing.
turn the adjusting
screw to:
fabric.
for lightweight
fabric.
to 25/128"').
"R"
is for rolled
and narrow
hemmings.
*
For normal
sewing,
the machine
as illustrated.
leave the
adjusting
screw even with
the top surface
of
"i:i:_
Removing the Presse_:Foot
f
iool
_if ter
\
__
zFoo!
holder
_foove
Lever _
Pin
D
11_ Ratse the needle
and presser
toot.
(_
Press
holder,
the
lever
located
The presser foot
on
will
the
drop
back
off.
of
foot
Place the presser foot
ties just under
Lower
the
the foot
foot
check
so that
the
pin
the groove
of the foot
holder
and push the
in place.
Raise the presser
that the presser foot
on the foot
holder.
lever to lock
foot
lifter
to
is secure.
27
Needle clamp
screws
-..
I
I
Needle slopper
/ r]l o
,o
Ed0o
o,
_
Needle clamp
[he Iett
needle bar
screw
"_\
Needle
Needte.
Fiat stale
to lhe back
I
f
1" Correct
®
(_
needle
2_
Disconnect
the
machine
from
the power
its
highest
position.
needle
clamp
supply.
the
Then
needle
loosen
the
to
screw
flat
for
the needle you are going to remove,
Refer
To Attach
Insert
Raise
to page 24 for changing
for three-thread
serging.
touches
needle
to
into the needle clamp
the
back
the stopper
until
the
pro, then
top
with
of
tighten
the
needle
the needle
screw on the right.
To attach
Insert
fiat
J
the needle on the right
new
side
clamp
the needle
setting)
......
the needle on the left
new needle
side
touches
to
the
into the needle clamp
back
until
the edge of needle
needle clamp
the
top
bar, then
with
of
the
needle
tighten
the
screw on the left.
* When the needles are set correctly,
needle is higher than the right one,
the left
NOTE:
Your
sewing
overlock
needles
No speciai
Do not use any needle which
or blunt.
28
Is bent
uses standard
(HA-1
needles
SP, #!1,
are required,
Kenmore
#14).
_To Disengage the Upper: Knife:
f
\
I
Upper
--b.-'--..b,>_<d_tt!
,
IlO__f'C""no
knife
Upper
_
_
knob
_
f_
topper
!It
v
p_n
Upper
knite
_'_Upper,
Slopper
i
pin
J
J
...........................J
1_) Disconnect
the machine
from
the powersupply.
(_)
Open the looper
and side covers.
_)
Turn
knife
the
pushing
on
knife
upper
upper
it m to
knife
m down
the
to
knob
right,
the
pin
to
Disconnect
Ctose the looper
the
machine
from
the
power
supply.
toward
then
(_)
you
guide
lock
the
the
while
hole
(_
Open the looper
_
Turn
the
while
pushing
upper
groove
position.
upper
_
'%
knob
_
I
on
knife
and side covers.
upper
knife
It to
upper
the
knife
knob
away
right,
to
then
the
pin
from
you
guide the
to
lock
m the up positron.
and side covers.
(_)
Close the looper
and side covers.
29
=:
::[::
,::::{:: ': ::::
:::::'::}:
: ::::::,:::::"
Tighten
®
®
N eedIe
Be[
Regular
Rolled
(ior normal
(for rolled hemming
p_cot
edging
and
narrow
hemming)
Sewing}
Stamp on the reverse
stde ol the plate
"
Select
*
Your
the needle plate for your
overlock
For your
When
nected
is shipped
with
"S ....
sewing
R"
need.
the regular
needle
(_) Turn
plate in place,
Safety:
you
from
change
(_
the needle
the power
supply.
plate or adjust
Screw
her'nm_ng
the seam width,
make
sure that
the machine
the
®
above
toward
remove
the presser foot.
the
until
plate.
the
Then
covers.
to page 6.)
Set the upper
Remove
you
needle
Open the side and looper
(Refer
@
wheel
comes
(Refer
is discon*
hand
needle
knife
to down
posrtion.
plate
set screw,
to page 29.)
the
needle
and
lift
the needle plate.
@
Attach
needle
(_)
needle
Bring the upper
(Refer
30
the
plate
you
require
plate set screw,
knife
to up position.
to page 29.)
(_
Close the looper
(_)
Attach
and side covers,
the presser foot.
with
the
Type
Needle
of Thread
Stitch
Length
Type of Fabric
L_ght
wetght
Organdy,
Lawn,
Georgette,
Crepe de chine,
Limng.
Medium
weight
Heavy
weight
Knits
Cotton,
Ordinary
Tweed,
Doeskin,
Kmtted
Linen,
Satin,
tabrlc.
Coating,
Thick
Demm,
fabric.
fabrfc
Cotton
No. 80 "_ 100
Silk
No. 80
Synthetic
No. 80
Cotton
No. 60
HA-t
Silk
No. 50
No. 1 t _ !4
Synthetic
100
100
No. 60 _- 100
Cotton
No, 50
Silk
No. 50
Synthetic
No. 50
Cotton
No. 60
Synthetic
No. 60
Woolly
ny{on
{For
looper
Woolly
(For
Refer to page 26 for adjusting
NOTE:Your
overtock
the stitch
uses standard
lO0
10o
HA-t
No.
60
6O
60
HA-t
8O
9O
HA-t
SP
2,0 _ 3,0
SP
2.5 _ 3.5
1t
3.0 _ 4.0
SP
No. t4
2.5 _ 3.5
SP
No. 1t _
14
thread)
polyester
looper
thread)
length.
Kenmore
sewing
needles
(HA-1
SP, #11,
#,'14).
31
Machine
f
Setting
Roiled
< Application
Hemming
Picot Edging
Narrow
Hemming
>
Stitch
Length
{a)
Needle
Remove
(R)
the left needle.
Needle
Plate
Rolled hemming
needle plate.
(Marked R on reverse side.)
.....
Refer to page 30 tot changing
32
the needle plate.
J
Thread,
Fabric
Tension
dial settings
and Range of the Tension
may vary depending
Dial
(3 Threads)
on the type and thickness
Fabric
Rolled
of fabric
and thread
being used.
Hemmtng
Picot Edging
Needle
thread
Long
fiber
polyester
Narrow
thread
No. 80 _
Hemming
100
Upper
and lower
looper
threads
Woolly
Woolly
nylon,
polyester
SynthetEc
Sitk
Needle
HA-1
Needle thread
tension (R)
Lfghtwetgh
t
fabric such as
organdy,
crepe
de chine, lawn
and georgette
setting
of
tenslon
dials
Upper looper
thread [ens_on
SP No.
Woolly
Woolly
Lower looper
thread tension
Upper looper
thread tension
nylon,
polyester
11
Need le thread
tension (R}
@
Standard
60 _ _00,
No. 50 _ 100
Needle thread
tension (R)
@
Lower looper
thread [ens_on
Upper looper
thread tension
Lower fooper
thread tension
i
....
jLowe
_!: _!_i,_[de2_f
.:_
_r_
'......................
looper
Correct
thread
tension
:
:
: Rigt_t
side
of fabric ;
r'_-- Upper
L_'-Upper
,_.._-_
looper
N:::ie_
_
Thread
_i:i
,breed
:/_;..-::
:
'::: threadll
:
;"
_'
lhread
'
33
Adjusting
1.
Thread
Tension
Set the tension
dials
as shown
on
page 33,
2.
the Thread
e
Hemming
For Rolled
Wrong
Sew and check
-- For better
f
How to Adjust
the tensions,
,%_.,._
Tension
and Picot
Edging
Tension
Wrong Tension
Needle thread
=s loose.
_Upper
result -
Wrong Tension
looper
thread
is loose.
:}_i_)we, r looper
thread
Is loose and/or
_!_:B_g£
thread
is tight,
i:!_[_,!i{AlO,s, kl:lilgi_:_._:,,!;4t.;i_iisliI i.......
!_"_-14::-_IQi:.,,l%>d_ _:=='Y_ll='l
i_;!_,t_
t eai:t+:÷,,
t ::::::=, .__@x,,,
. :_.:,.
Upper
_,_,_j_,,>,!_!i_>ii_!_!_
ii_,
ii!_i
!ii!)i!i!!i!iii'i
!!i!!ii
iii!
_i
iiil!i!i:i_i
i:ii_
Rolled
Pull
back
end
lightly
of
!i: i:ii!:i iii:ilildi:i_
:-:::, : _htead::::_ : :,:'::
Hemming
the
Upper
:::: :: :::: :t_fead:
thread
chain
in the beginning
to
and end
Tighten
needle
thread
tension.
Tighten
upper
looper
thread
tension.
of sewing,
Tighten
lower
looper
thread
and/or
loosen
upper
looper
tension
thread
tension.
4"
Needle
tension
Upper looper
thread tension
thread
(R}
Lower
thread
"_
Pull
the
while
sewing.
fabric
lightly
to
the
back
•
For Narrow
Needie thread
tension I R}
Needle tt'_r cad
tension {R)
@
looper
tension
Picot Edging
Hemming
Refer to page 25 for the adiustment.
34
:::::_
the
Upper
thread
looper
tension
Lower looper
thread tens=on
"_
@
Upp_r
thread
looper
lension
Lower
thread
looper
tension
Thread,
Fabric,
Range of the Tension
Fabric
< Application
and Machine
Setting
Thread
Standard
>
"
/Overedgmg
Medium
to
Needle
Synthetic
:
No. 60_
thread
Silk
:
No. 50_80
Upper
looper
Heavy
thread
Buttonhole
twist
Lightweight
woof
'I
80
..... i
Lower
thread
Synthetic
.
No. 60_
Silk
:
No. 50_80
....
LO
J
looper
,
_,%%,oo_,_o
t%%'°%o
yarn
Fabric
..................
Setting
80
r
Stitch
3_4
tength
Machine
Needle
Settmg
plate
Regular
(Marked
needle plate
S on reverse side)
HA-1 SP No,
Needle
Refer to page 21 for the correct
14
tension,
To adjust the thread tension balance, set the tension dials as shown above first, then refer to pages
22 _ 23.
*
For the best result,
*
Remove
either
pull
the thread
needle for three
chain
thread
to the back
decorative
lightly
at the beginning
and end of sewing.
overedging.
35
Fabric,
< App|ication
Thread
and Machine
Fabric
>
Sewing
Setting
Thread
Light
to
Medium
Fabric
Needle
thread
Synthetic
No. 60 _ 80
on the rtght
Silk
No. 50 _ 80
and lower
Synthetic
No, 60 "* 100
looper
Silk
No. 50 "_ 100
)!i:i} ::
Upper
threads
Folded edge
fStitch
2_3
length
,
Machine
........................
Remove
J
the needle on the left.
J
Setting
Needle
Regular
plate
(Marked
needle pfate
Disengage
S on reverse side)
Sew the
Needle
HA-1
Standard
SP No. 11 or 14
the
upper
knife.
(Refer
to page
29.)
right
folded
edge while
side edge of lower
guiding
along the
knife.
Setting
Needle lhread
_ens_on (R)
Q
Upper looper
thread tenslon
Lower looper
thread tension
J
Press the pin tucks
*
Refer
ment.
36
to
pages
24 _ 25 for thread
tension
balance
adjust-
Engage the
29.)
to one side,
upper
knife,
(Refer
to page
Disconnect
the machine
from
the power
supply
before
cleaning.
Needle pla
$8_
SCreW
J
®®
Open the looper
Remove
cover,
the waste
(_
materials
with
a lint
Open the looper
and side covers,
(_
brush,
Push
the
lint
by using iint
(_)
Remove
the needles and presser foot.
Remove
the
_)
needle
ptate
set screw
and needle
around
the feed dog
to the
front
brush.
Replace needle plate, presser foot and needles.
Close the looper and side covers,
plate.
*
You may use vacuum
cleaner
to clean
the upper
knife
area or teed dog.
37
Face
plate
plale
bulb
Set screw
Disconnect
the
machtne
face
plate
from
the
power
@
supply.
Remove
the
set screw,
and remove
the face plate.
CAUTION!
For your
"
38
(_
Put
the
turning
The
light
bulb will
Protect
your
fingers
handle it,
new
be HOT.
when you
safety:
The mach{ne
is designed
to use a 15 WATT
MAXIMUM
LIGHT
bulb
it clockwise.
BULB.
in
by
pushing
it
up
and
Attach the face plate,
set screw.
and tighten
the face plate
Disconnect
the machine
from
the power
supply
before
oiling.
Open the
looper cover.
end apply
,:,:::::,:::::
....
J
Apply
a few drops
of fine quality
Oiling
is recommended
once
sewing
a week
machine
in normal
oil to the parts indicated
use, once in ten hours
with
m continuous
arrows.
use.
39
\
\
0.5 _tmm
{]/32"'}
/_Jpper
Lower
knife
To Remove:
To Attach:
(_)
Disconnect
the machine
(_
Open the looper
trom
the power
supply.
insert
holder
and side covers.
hexagon
1_
Disengage
(Refer
the upper
(_)
Turn
(_)
Turn
upper
new upper knife into the groove of knife
and
stopper
pro,
then
tighten
the
bolt
slightly.
knife.
knife
Loosen
the
upper
of
knife
hexagon
upper
the
hexagon
bolt,
and
remove
the
Then
knife.
(_}
"
The lower
knife
at the same time.
4O
wilt
last over one year
in normal
use.
However,
if you
run over a pin or a hard object,
overlaps
tighten
to replace
and adjust
so that
the
0.5 to 1 mm
knife
as shown
the hexagon
Close the looper
it may be required
to cutting
bolt,
knife
the edge of lower
(_) Remove
holder
position.
the hand wheel
toward
you until
knife comes to its lowest position.
tion
upper
to page 29.)
the upper
the
the posi-
edge
(1/32"}
of
the
from
above.
bolt firmly.
and side covers,
both
upper
and lower
kmves
; _Y:T'_:_ _;=i_?::? :_'
:_':::_:::::_:_=:
:_
:
What to: DO When :_
Condition
The fabric is not
being
fed smoothly.
The needle breaks.
The thread
breaks.
Skipped stitches
t.
The feed dog is packed
2.
The presser foot
with
1.
The needle
is incorrectly
2.
The needle
is bent
3.
The fabric
is forcefully
1.
The machine
2.
The needle or looper
3.
The needle
Js Incorrectly
4.
The needle
_sbent
threaded.
thread
tension
_snot
1.
The needle and/or
sewn neatty,
2.
The machine
inserted.
3,
The needle
and/or
4,
The thread
is not between
threaded.
thread
The machine
3.
The needle plate
1,
The machnne
2.
The power
thread
is not correctly
tensions
are not
tension
off.
for the fabric
discs.
is too tight.
threaded.
for the use,
been plugged
asturned
are not correctly
suitable
the tension
is not suitable
has not
switch
See page 9 _ 17.
adiusted.
threaded,
the thread
The needle or looper
17.
See page 28.
Js not correctly
1.
See pages 9 _
See page 28,
correctly
2.
lightly.
See page 28.
or blunt.
looper
Pull the fabric
See pages 2t .v 25 and 33 "- 36.
is too tight.
or blunt.
The seam is not
not operate,
See page 28,
pulled.
The needle
the presser foot,
See page 28.
as not correctly
ts bent
Lower
inserted.
The machine
does
See page 37.
or blunt.
1.
Seam puckering.
lint.
has been raised,
2.
The machine
Reference
Cause
in firmly.
being sewn.
See pages 21 _ 25 and 33 "-_36.
See pages 9 _ 17.
See pages 31, 33, 35 and 36,
See pages 11, 13, 15 and 17.
See pages 21 "_ 25 and 33 _ 36.
See pages 9 _
17,
See page 30.
See page 5.
See page 5.
J
4t
PARTS LIST
All parts listed herein
3
4
WHEN ORDERING
INFORMATION:
may be ordered
REPAIR
from
PARTS,
1. PART NUMBER
3. MODEL NUMBER
any Sears store or service center.
ALWAYS
GIVE THE
FOLLOWING
2. PART DESCRIPTION
4. NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked localty, your order wilt be electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
Ref. No.
6
7
8
9
1
2
3
4
5
6
10
@
7
8
9
10
1!
11
12
13
14
15
12
13
14
15
*
42
Part No.
Description
762402009
366413003
624801001
822020307
784806005
784860OO7
Screw driver
Screw driver
Tweezers
784157004
784157015
784626009
785609009
Needle, HA-1 SP, No. tl
Needle, HA-1 SP, No. 14
Rolled hemming needle piate
Needle plate
Net
Lint brush
Spool cap
Looper threader
Needle set
624806006
802424004
0000098O3
Light bulb
784045019
*784809008
784223002
*6890
These items
are not
instructions
above.
furnished
(large)
(small)
Upper knife
Spanner
Spool holder
Oil
with
the machine,
but may be ordered
per
INDEX
A
Accessory box
..................
4
C
Carrying handle ...................
Changing needle ..................
Changing the needle plate ............
3
28
30
D
Decorative overedglng
.............
35
F
Face
Foot
Foot
Foot
plate ......................
holder ....................
holder set screw ...............
control ....................
3, 38
4, 27
4
3, 5
N
S
Narrow hemming .................
32
Needle .................
27, 28, 31, 42
Needle bar .......................
4
Needle bar thread guide .......
4, 15, 17
Needle clamp
...........
4, 28
Needle clamp screw ...........
4, 28
Needle plate .............
4, 30, 42
Needle plate set screw .........
4, 30, 37
Needle stopper pin .................
28
Needle threads ......
t4_16, 21_25, 33_36
Needle thread guide ..........
3, 15, 17
Needle thread tenston dial ..............
............
3, 15, 17, 21_25, 33_36
Net .......................
4, 7, 42
Screwdrivers
.................
Side cover ...................
Set screw ....................
Specification of the machine .........
Spool cap ................
Spook holder ...........
Spool pin .....................
Spool stand ......................
Stitch length dial ...............
Stoppers ......................
Stopper pin ....................
O
Oiling ..........................
39
H
Hand wheel ......................
3, 6
K
Knife holder
...................
4
L
Light bulb ..................
38, 42
Lint brush ..................
4, 37, 42
Looper thread take-up lever ......
4, 11, 13
Looper threader ..............
4, 11, 13
Looper cover ......................
3, 6
Lower knife .....................
4
Lower looper ...............
4, 10_1 t
Lowertooperthread
. , 10, 12, 21_25, 33_36
Lower looper thread guide .........
3, 1t
Lower looper thread tension dial ......
3, 1 t
Performance
problems chart
Picot edging ..................
Pin tucking
..................
Plug connector
...................
Power switch
....................
.........
Pressure adjusting
screw ............
Presser bar ......................
Presser foot
.................
Presser foot lifter
...............
41
32_34
36
3, 5
3, 5
3, 26
4
4, 8, 27
4, 8, 27
4, 42
3, 6
38
44
4, 7, 42
3, 7, 9, 42
3, 7
3
3, 26
7
29
T
Thread chain ....................
Thread cutter ...................
Thread guide bar .................
Thread guide plate .......
3, 10, 12,
Thread take-up lever thread guide. , , 3,
Tweezers ...................
4,
Upper
Upper
Upper
Upper
Upper
Upper
18
4, 18
3, 7
14, 16
15, 17
11, 42
knife .................
4, 29, 42
knife knob
................
4, 29
looper
.................
4, 12_13
looper thread
.....
12, 21_25,
33"36
looper thread guide
.........
4, 13
looper thread tension dial .....
3, 13
R
Right needle thread guide ...........
Rolled hemming .................
Rolled hemming needle plate .....
3, 15
32
4, 32, 42
43
Specification of the Machine
Item
Specification
WARRANTY
Sewing speed
t,300
Stitch length (feed amount)
1 _ 5 mm (Ordinary
Overedge stitch width
3.5 mm or 5.7 mm
5.7 mm (4 threads)
Needle bar stroke
26 mm
Presser foot rise
5 mm
r.p.m,
maximum
average 3)
(3 threads)
1)
-_
4t
-_
Needle
HA-1
Number of threads
3or4
Machine dimensions
width
SP #11
53 '° x depth
10_-_-
x height
Weight
or #14
I0-_'
10 _2"
0
#
15.5 lb.
FULL FIVE YEAR WARRANTY
ON MECHANICAL
COYPONENTS OF OVERLOCK MACHINE
For five years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of
charge, repair defects in materiat and workmanship which
appear in the mechanical components of the overtock machine
head.
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY
ON ELECTRICAL
MENT OF OVERLOCK MACHINE
EQUIP-
For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of
charge, repair defects in material or workmanship
which
appear in the electrical equipment of the overlock machine,
including electronic components,
motor, wiring, switch and
speed control.
FULL
90-DAY
WARRANTY
MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENTS
ON
ALL
For 90 days from the date of purchase,
charge, replace any parts and provide
necessary for proper operation
except for normal maintenance.
{)
WARRANTY
SERVICE
_1
OVERLOCK
MACHINE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT
IS AVAILABLE
PARTS
44
SEARS, ROEBUCK
_)
._
-="
AND
Sears will, free of
mechanical service
of the overtock
machine,
BY RETURNING
TO THE NEAREST SEARS
IN THE UNITED STATES.
THE
SERVICE
If this overlock machine is used for commercial or rental purposes,
the above warrant-/coverage
applies for only 90 days from the date
of purchase.
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have
other rights which vary from state to state.
//
_1
AND CO., D/817 WA, Hoffman
Estates, IL 60179
{t
OVERLOCK
Now
that
service,
you
simply
have
purchased
contact
your
Kenmore
any Sears Service
Overlocko
Center.
should
a need
Be sure to provide
ever
exist
all pertinent
for
facts
repair
when
parts
or
you call or
v|sit,
The model number of your Overlock will be shown on your nomenclature
Over!ock. See page 3 for location,
WHEN ORDERING
*
MODEL NUMBER
REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING
* NAME OF ITEM
plate on the back of your
INFORMATION:
* PART DESCRIPTION
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.
transmitted
to a Sears
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL 60684 U.S,A.
E
S-385
Printed in Taiwan
Part No. 785800909
i