Download Sears 385.11608 Instruction manual
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SEWING MACHINE SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear Customer: You have just invested in a very please pause for a moment and care for your Specific instructions obtain the Advice on the fine zigzag sewing and carefully Before which using your contains new Kenmore instructions machine, on how to operate machine. are given best sewing results operation on threading, tension adjustments, and avoid unnecessary and care of your Please remember, if you the model and serial number number machine. read this booklet have questions machine about when you cleaning, service expense is always your available machine oiling, etc. This will for conditions at your or need parts beyond nearest Sears Retail Record in of this are located space provided appliance. inquire. below the The model on the nomenclature model number plate, number and serial and serial as identified number on Page 3 of this booklet. Model No. 385. Serial No. Retain these numbers for future reference. THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, Store. and service, always mention Kenmore Sewing Machine number help you our control. LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE. IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS 4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 6. Do not use outdoors. 7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxigen is being administered. DAN G ER- Toreduce the risk of electric shock: 8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("O") position, then remove plug from outlet. 1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. 9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord. 10. 2. Always unplug before relamping. 15 Watts. Keept fingers away from all moving parts. around the sewing machine needle. 11. 3. Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. immediately. Always use the proper needle plate. needle to break. 12. Do not use bent needles. 13. Do not poll or push fabric while stitching. tt may deflect the needle causing it to break. 14. Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in Your sewing ma(_hineis designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use. Read all instruction before using this sewing machine. 4. Replace bulb with same type rated Unplug Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid. :_,_ or injury to persons. 1, Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessarywhen this appliance is used by or near children. 2, Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 15. _ foot, and _ Special care is required The wrong plate can cause the I_=ke; Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when marking any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS "For appliances With a potariz_ plug (one blade wider t_an the other)_ To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way." "Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models 385.1148x x x, 385.1158 x x x, 385.1168x x x, 385.1258x x x, 385.1268x x x, 385.12612x x x, 385.1278x x x, 385.11607x x x, 385.12710x x x, 385.12714x x x, 385.12712x x x, 385.17622x x x, 385.11608x x x, 385.12814x x x and 385.12014x x x. x x x - represents humblers 000 through 999." (For U.S.A. market only) TABLE SECTION KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .............. Locate and Identify the Parts .................. Identify the Accessories ........................ SECTION OF CONTENTS 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE • Left Needle Position ........................ 18 Darning ................................. 19 Straight Stretch ............................ 19 Zigzag Stitches ........................... 20_26 • Basic Zigzag ............................. 20 • Satin Stitch ............................. 21 • Applique ............................... 22 • Bar Tacking ............................. 22 • Sew a Button ............................ 23 • Overcasting Stitch ......................... 24 • Rick- Rack Stretch ........................ 24 • Overcast Stretch Stitching (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) ............. 25 • Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching (Model 12781 and 12681) ................... 25 • Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 26 Lace Work (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) ........ 26 Blind Hemming (Models 12781,12681 and 12581) ..... 27 Buttonholes ............................. 28_29 Sew in a Zipper .......................... 30_31 Shell Stitching (Model 12781 and 12681) ........... 32 Smocking ................................ 32 Elastic Stretch Stitch (Model 12781 only) ........... 33 Box Stitching (Model 12781 only) ................ 33 2 2_3 3 FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine ......................... 4_6 • Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... 4 • Foot Control Use .......................... 4 • Setting Spool Pin .......................... 5 • Adjust the Presser Foot Lever .................. 5 • Thread Cutter ............................ 5 • Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table .... 6 • Accessory Storage Box ...................... 6 • Change the Presser Foot ...................... 6 Choose Your Needle and Thread ................ 6_7 • • To Change Your Needle ....................... Check Your Needle ......................... • Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart Prepare the Bobbin ......................... • To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine • Wind the Bobbin ........................ • Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ............ Prepare Your Top Thread .................... • Thread Your Needle ....................... the Top T__ .; .... ] ........ Stitch Selector ............................. Stitch Length Control ........................ Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................. Reverse Stitch Control ........................ Starting To Sew ............................ SECTION 3. 6 7 ...... 7 8_9 ...... 8 8_9 9 10_11 10 ;: 11_}3 14 14 15 15 16 SECTION • • Use the Darning Plate ...................... Topstitching ............................ SECTION 5. _n CARE PROBLEMS CHART ......................... FOR YOUR • PARTS LIST Arm Cover Plate .......................... Oil the Underside ......................... ........................................ INDEX ............................................ 34,_35 MACHINE Replacing the Light Bulb ...................... Cleaning the Machine ...................... • Clean the Feed Dogs ....................... • Clean the Shuttle Race ..................... Oiling the Machine .......................... • Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the 17_18 17 17 17 18 18 PEL:iFQBMAJ_.CE _tto LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stitches .......................... • Straight Stitch ........................... • Use the Seam Guides ....................... • Turna Square Corner ...................... 4. 36 36_37 36 37 38 38 38 39 40 SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available Locate and Identify the Parts A full line of sewing cabinets are available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case... then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored anywhere. Take-up Lever Bobbin Winding _read Upper Tension Disc Thread Thread Guide Bobbin Spool Winding Pin Spindle \ T_er_orr ¢_m_ Stitch Length Control Reverse Stitch Control Stitch Selector Face Cover Plate Thread Cutter Needle Plate Shuttle Extension (Accessory Table storage box) Cover SECTION ArmCover Plate Carrying 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE Identify the Accessories Handle Hand Wheel Presser Foot Lever Bobbin Lint brush AutoClutch Knob Needle set nhole opener Light and Power Switch Free Arm _Large screw Plug Connector Darning Nomenclature plate Plate Straight stitch foot Foot Control Satin stitch foot Needle Clamp Presser Foot Sliding buttonhole Screw Zipper foot foot driver SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Power sPw°itwce_ Z supply • Foot Control Use plug _'_Power light Foot Plu_l connector 4. Push the light and power switch on the power and sewing to turn light. To SAFETY FEATURE: inserting machine, OFF. be the sure plug the power into Your your switch is Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Volt AC outlet. 2. Insert plug the machine connector, plug as shown. into the It will three-prong only fit Insert will switch interrupted or light/power switch children. increase the power supply plug into the outlet. regulates speed, gently not operate is turned stop sewing, to unless the If you are on. turn prevent off injury To the speed at press down with decrease speed, release your foot control is sensitive pres- sure slightly. the to NOTE : The foot will increase sewing or decrease speed Practice on regulate your your way. 3. one machine light/power control the ball of your foot. J Before foot which you sew. Machine plug NOTE: The control immediately. a scrap of sewing taste and needs. and your fabric to speed to SECTION • Setting Spool Pin Spool pin • Adjust the Presser Foot Lever 2. Thread PREPARE YOUR MACHINE Cutter t= Normal up position positior High position P position 'Presser foot lever J The spool pin is used for holding the spool of thread in order to feed thread to the machine. The To use, pull up the spool pin. for storage. up position Push down Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot. You thread You can raise it about 1/4" for easy removal higher than the normal of the presser foot or handy Pull don't need a pair of scissors to cut the after thread the you finish sewing. Just use the cutter, threads to lengthen several inches FOR SEWING SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Choose Your Needle and Thread Set Up the Machine (Continued) • Free-ArmSewing: the Removable ExtensionTable • = AccessoryStorageBox • Change the PresserFoot To Change Your Needle ! ' ;/ _. I' _ 7"-_, side _ away II from you To Remove the Extension (for free-arm 1. Grip the table and thumb, 2, Pull gently table will Table The with your index finger as shown, to the left. The extension snap out. (for flat-bed sewing) 2. Sewing ently To Attach the Extension Table 1. lid of the accessory storage box lifts open toward sewing) Insert the tab and the pin into their catches. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in. accessories located you. are in the box. Use the correct presser foot the stitch conveni- for you wish to sew. To change the various presser feet, raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presserfoot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure. Needle clamp screw 'J J %. . J NOTE: Raise the position Loosen needle it toward Remove the its highest hand wheel you. the turning 2. bar to by turning toward 1. needle the clamp screw by you. needle by pulling it down- ward. 3. Insert the new clamp with the flat needle into the side away 4. Push the needle up as far as it will 5. Tighten with the the needle large accessory box. clamp screwdriver needle from screw from you. go. firmly your SECTION • Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch > Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing. In your needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded needles: Blue (11 ) Orange Red ......... (11 ) ........ (14) .......... for stretch for lightweight for (16) ........ for fabrics. or medium-heavy fabrics. medium-heavy and decorative fabrics. hole weight for needle thicker Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets, Leather on these has a larger topstitching Heavy Weight: Coatings, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas ttm_d._ Green|_ ...,:,.. for _ decorative Kenmore needles are _ fa_r_ top-stitching on on a½ttyp_of these avialable at your nearest Sears stores. • SIZE Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING 2 (12 stitches inch ) per 14-RED 50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A 2--2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch) 14-RED or 16-PURPLE 50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy-Duty Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A 2--3 (8-I0 stitches per inch) 1B-GREEN Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A 3 (8 stitches per inch ) r, , fabrics. Replacement THREAD fabrics topstitching (This thread FOR SEWING Length Chart 11-ORANGE Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Vinyl Suitings, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather YOUR MACHINE fabrics. medium weight Purple PREPARE NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR FABRIC Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Organdy 2. Check Your Needle 1. Look for barbed or blunt point. 2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics. Always buy a good quality thread, It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness, fabric Stretch Fabric: Polyester Double Knits, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex, Cire Tricot TS_GREEN (_ 11-BLUE (STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE) Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton aS top thread only) t°°per inch)_ 2--2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch) SECTION Prepare • 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING the Bobbin To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine • Wind the Bobbin J J Remove the the machine left. Open pulling extension table by pulling the down shuttle from it to the cover by the embossed part on the left side of the cover. Raise needle by rotating to its hi_ghest position hand wheel toward you. clutch knob toward you to stop the needle from moving To remove bobbin case from shutcase. tle, pul! open latch of bobbin Pull case straight bobbin shuttle. out of bobbin. while inside you the hand wheel winding the SECTION 2. PREPARE Y_OUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Wind the Bobbin (Continued) 7 Draw thread from spool through bobbin winding tension disc as shown. Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin as shown. Place bobbin bobbin until it thread, slightly • onto bobbin winding spindle with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push winding spindle to the right clicks. Holding onto end of start machine. When bobbin is filled, snip off end of thread. Wind thread until winder stops. Push bobbin winding spindle to the left and clip thread. Remove bobbin. Turn clutch knob away from you while holding hand wheel for normal sewing operation. Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case Place bobbin in bobbin case making sure thread feeds clockwise and is coming from bobbin as shown. Pull thread through slot of case as shown. Pull thread under tension spring and through the opening as shown above. Pull 3 to 4 inches of thread from bobbin. Holding latch open, position case into shuttle and release latch. Case should lock into when latch is released. place 9 SECTION Prepare • 2. Your PREPARE Top YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Thread Thread Your Needle I .... Raise take-up I J _- lever to its highest position i J by turning _ ,, hand wheel toward _.. • you. Raise presser foot]ever. Place spool on spool The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations. Dotted loops lines and then show places is pulled tight. where the thread 1. Draw thread 2. While holding check spring 3. Firmly 4. Draw 5. Thread NOTE: 10' pin as shown, with into thread thread near spool, both draw coming from the back of the spool. hands. thread down into the tension lever from right to left. area and then holder. draw thread thread guide using thread down needle from You may want up and through take-up and slip it into needle front bar thread guide. to back. to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading. around the SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread F Raise presser foot lever. Hold top 2. thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn. Bring bobbin thread up by top thread, pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 4 to 6 inchesof thread clear. If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check: 1. Is needle threaded from front to back? 3. Are 3 t-0-_'lTn-_nes of thread com;ng from the shuttle? 4. Is thread from shuttle tangled? 5. Is bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case? 6. Is the machine threaded according to the instructions? 11 SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Adjust the Top Thread Tension Choose the Correct Top side of fabric The best tension Tension: will depend on; X Setting the stiffness and thickness the number of fabric mark Loosen layers the type of stitch t ooI}! thread I The top thread is too loose. Tighten thread of fabric \ j For Straight The ideal fabric, If you straight look stitch will have threads above, magnified at the each stitch W/hen adjusting thread. Top side of fabric ',, stitch, front is smooth top thread locked between the two layers of The top thread appears on the underside of the fabric. to show detail. and back, you will notice that there are no The bobbin thread ag_ears on the upper surface of the fabric. and even. tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top Tension The top bottom is too loose: thread will Tension shows of the fabric. of the stitch 12 The top thread is too tight Stitch as shown gaps, that of the fabric through the The The bottom side the feel bumpy. is too tight: bobbin top the stitch thread will of the fabric. will come through The top feel bumpy. side of SECTION2. PREPAREYOUR MACHINEFORSEWING For Zigzag Stitch In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. See below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust your top tension. Top tension Top tension Too Tight Too Loose Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Just Right Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Too Tight: Too Loose: Just Right: -- -- The top thread will loop through bottom side of fabric and will be polled almost together, Minimize the amount of top thread visible on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side. Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing condition_ Corner of each zigzag will pull together on the top side of fabrics, 13 SECTION2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Stitch Selector Stitch Length Control Model 12781 0 / Setting Setting 2 mark 4 I I mark I I I Stitch Se/lector \\ ! I t Stitch !Length \\\ \ I \ ) ting : l "_* ch Select°r/ i _ Stitch Length Control ; The stitch The stitch selector control not only determines the stitch you select, but also regulates the stitch width for regular zigzag and rick rack stretch stitches. stitches The different "0" types of stitches Straight, Zigzag and Utility are designated Buttonhole 14 control regulates the length of stitch, and also has a stretch the number, the longer the stitch. means no feed. Stitches are orange. Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes, you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length control. Settings are blue. To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out of fabric when adjusting this control. Model 12681 length setting. The higher by color. Stretch Stitches are yellow. NOTE: mark I Model 12581 Model 11682 SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Reverse Stitch Control Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance /Setting mark f__ Stitch Length _oV,_ / L___J "_\ \ / oL,_ ,__2_,3_4_s I==, I , ,_ ___k' I I "_l • Stitch Length \ | / l t Cont_rol_ To select Stretch position. Stitches, set this control at • In stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length Control should be in the detent position between S and L (• position) for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric used, you may need to adjust this control to match forward stitches of stretch sewing with reversemotion stitches. toward"S'_-_--T_, turn _oward_ L • V Smock • To reverse stitch, hold down this control during sewing. Releaseto sew forward again. tr. S ing stretch Rickrack stretch 15 SECTION 2. StartingTo Now that Kenmore 1. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE Sew you are familiar sewing Inspect afraid FOR SEWING with machine. the needle. to change the controls Below It should your on your are some good habits be straight, needle frequently. properly Many machine to follow and with the accessories provided each time you sit down set and sharp on the point. of the new fabrics It should made of synthetic for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new to sew: blends be the correct tend todull size for the fabric and thread the needles more easily being used. Do not be than fabrics made of natural fibers. 2. 3. 4. Before placing during the sewing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric suitable to your fRhrir_ you plan to use. The fabric Fabric should be placed under seam marking on the needle plate when making the presser foot with about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads should the bulk of the material be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" a simple seam. 5. Run the machine 6. Fasten each seam by back tacking 7. Always 8. Guide the fabric gently with 9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you. 16 have been drawn of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam. at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the machine will sew. at the beginning and end of the seam. finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point. your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered. SECTION Straight • 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Stitches Straight Stitch Use the Seam Guides Set the Machine Stitch Stitch ! selector 1 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Cornering Stitch length control orange 1. Raisethepresser foot. 7. 2. Raise the position. At the end of the seam, you may want to reverse to lock the stitch. 8. Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric. 9. Cut the threads. 3. Straight foot Zigzag foot 4. needle to its highest Place the edge of the fabric next to a stitching guide line on the needle plate (5/8" is most common). Draw the threads Guide The seam guides on the needle plate are there to help you measure seam width_ The lines are I/8" apart, with the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked. • Turn a Square Corner towards the back and lower the presser foot. 6. Hold the fabric loosely and gently guide it along the guide line, so that it feeds naturally. Do not force the fabric or try to pull it tight. To turn a square corner fabric 1. Stop stitching by toward you when facing you Raise the from the Lower stitching turning lower hand the fabric lines up with the wheel edge the guide, as shown. the fabric the 5/8" 3. and needle cornering 2. 5/8" edge: presser foot to the line and turn edge with seam guide. the presser foot and begin in the new direction. 17 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stitches (Continued) • Usethe DarningPlate Topstitching • Left Needle Position Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Sor0etir_.t when to control _ ___v, you Stitch length control orange want Here's _ \ To put on the Darning 2. the fabric. Plate: Straight The rectangular holes Darning match Plate the darning plate, holes are slightly of center. Position the needle will plate show plate with Use the darning Darning the darning Button 18 in the following (P. 1__9) Sewing (P. 23) and Its Uses Topstitching Accent two emphasizes garment edges flat outer plate edge of Evenly guide the fabric the next presser produce 3/8" along this an even row from © of the edge. _ your plate holes. ways: edge of the fabric right topstitching or The Stitch the Keep the to the foot, edge to In The feed dogs through the presser foot. these plate pins into holes. 3, to the left darning Lower Zigzag foot the the 3 pins on the bottom. Fit the darning foot in the holes in the needle plate. 2. !. zone Plate covers the feed dogs they do not touch NOTE: 1. Stitch selector the fabric youself. The Darning so that selector and keeps Use the of control while stitching difficult NOTE: Use foot and crisp. suits rows of or blouses topstitching edges of cuffs, with Needle and lines seams j Left one around lapels or collars. or the Position topstitching Sewing. for more or edge fabrics. only for zigzag Left presser Needle SECTION Darning 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stretch Set the Machine Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector Stitch Stitch selector I Top thread tension Stitch control1 to 4 controlany number length Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control yellow position _=_ Here's How 1. No presser foot stretchstitch l___J Put the darning plate on the needle plate (seep. 1_88). Darning plate 2. Remove presser foot and stretch fabric Straight centered. 3. between hoops with hole Draw the embroidery bobbin thread up through the _ foot Zigzag foot or Stretch _be 4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow 5. speed, Move the fabric back and forth slowly until you have covered the darning area. 6. Turn the fabric half turn and sew another layer of stitching over the first layer. NOTE: 7. If your fabric is thin or badly damaged, use a separate piece of fabric under the hole to reinforce it. When you finish darning, remove the darning plate. stitching was developed usedo_ _et_! f=_ ;csan_d_ _F_Tcs--as wetl,_ weii_ curved seams and on any the straight stitch, especially develop- garments that will receive a great ed for knits and stretch fabrics, deal of strain (ie. children's clothes). This stitch can also be used for The stretch stitch does not topstitching on all fabrics. This stitch is the stretch variation of actually stretch as it is being sewn, but is stitched in a forward and back motion (sometimes called a "reverseaction" stitch), so that it will give when the fabric stretches instead of breaking, 19 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Zigzag Stitches • BasicZigzag Set the Stitch Machine Stitch Top thread tension control 2 to 5 selector Stitch length control orange =: Here's How There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch. Consult the specific variations for detailed directions. Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses The zigzag stitch is one of the most common and most versatile stitches on your machine. It can be a utility stitch for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem° ming, overcasting, mending and darning. It can also be used to decorate with trims, appliques and cut-out work or as a decorative stitch. 2O Satin Stitch p. 21 Applique Work p. 22 Bar Tacking p. 22 Button Sewing p. 23 Overcasting p. 24 Rick-rack stretch p. 24 Overcast stretch p. 25 Serging p. 25 Three-step zigzag p. 26 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Satin Stitch Zigzag w dth: Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Stitch selector length : 1 2 3 Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 4 Close to 0 Satin stitch foot The Satin stitch is a versatile and often Here's How used decorative stitch, but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge (for example, blankets, linens, tablecloths and napkins). Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a fragment of the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light weight fabrics. The Satin stitch isespecially attractive in applique. 21 SECTION 3. Zigzag Stitches LEARN THE STITCHES (Continued) Applique Bar Tacking Set the Machine Stitch Sat the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 selector Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 I s LL_ Satin stitch foot Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique. When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the fabric. Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the right or left. 22 This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners or pockets and straps on lingerie. Zigzag foot Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches. SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Sew a Button Set the Machine Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch selector Stitch length control any number (not nec_adjust ) Use the darning plate for button sewing (see p. 188), To 1. Set the stitch selector at " threads 2. Align the both holes of the button with the slot of the foot and place the left hole of the button just below the needle point. 3. Lower the foot and turn the stitch selector to zigzag until the needle point comes just above the right hole of the button. I ,, the Zigzag foot Darning plate 4. strengthen the shank, leaving a 20 cm (8") needle thread hole in the button down cut through and wind the tail. Bring the it around the shank. Draw the thread to the bottom side and knot. Sew about five stitches and raise needle. ................... I ..................... 23 SECTION 3. Zigzag Stitches LEARN THE STITCHES (Continued) Overcasting Stitch Rick-Rack Stretch Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Set the Machine selector The Stitch and Its Uses This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in finishing raw edges of any sewing project. Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control 1 to 2 Zigzag foot 24 Stitch Stitch length control ye|iow stretch stitch position Helpful Hints The Stitch and Its Uses Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the raw corner of your seam. If you start right at the edge, the fabric will bunch up and the stitches will become tangled. Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zigzagstitch. Zigzag foot This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch as well. SECTION Overcast Stretch Stitching (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) • Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Set the Machine Stitch Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitchi_ 3. LEARN THE STITCHES I (Models 12781 and 12681) Set the Machine selector Stitch Stitch length control yellow Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 selector Stitch length control yellow position _ stretch stitch L__J Zigzag foot Here's How stretch stitch "_-_ Place the raw edge of the fabric to the LEFT of the needle as shown. Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric Zigzag foot just short of the outside edge. Here's How Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the stitches are made over the edge. Or, place your fabric to allow a 5/8" seam, then trim seam allowance after. Or, place your fabric to allow a 5/8" seam, then trim seam allowance NOTE: This stitch can be used for sewing a seam with an overcast finish. The seam is formed and finished in one operation. It can be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch. raveling. NOTE: Use a blue stretch fabric needle, which effectively prevents skipped stitches. Use this stitch narrow seam that press open flat. seams on knits when you want a you do not need to It is ideal for 1/4" or on medium to Whe_.,_ _l'ete_--knit, effectively skipped stitches. prevents heavyweight woven fabrics where you want a narrow seam. It is also great for making elastic swim wear. 25 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Zigzag Stitches (Continued) Lace Work (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) Three-Step Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control 0,5 to 1 Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control 1 J Seam Finishing Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the edge will be slightly inside the right hand side of the presserfoot. Zigzag foot Zigzag foot Guide the work so the right hand stitches fall at the edge of the fabric. Lace to The Stitch and Its Uses Turn -26 and Mending Position the tear under the needle so that the stitching will catch both sides. feminine lingerie. raw edge of fabric Place stitch using stretch blind under lace underneath excess fabric touch Table become more with lace. 1/2". Trim The three-step zigzag stitch is especially useful for: mending sewing patches smoothly securely. repairing straight tears. finishing seams. and and pillows when trimmed The three-step zigzag is a combination zigzag and straight stitch. You may use the three-step zigzag everywhere you would use the basic zigzag stitch. It has more strength, elasticity, and is 'flatter than a regular zigzag. -- adds a fanciful, blouses linens elegant at least and hem stitch. close to stitching. top- SECTION Blind Hemming LEARN THE STITCHES (Models 12781, 12681 and 12581) 1/4" Set the Machine Stitch 3. Stitch selector Light (Regular) Fabric Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control 1 to 3 There are two blind hem stitches on your machine. The regular blind hem is used for woven fabrics. wider and will "give" and is used for knit and stretch fabrics. Zigzag foot 1. Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desired. (See Overcasting, p. 24) 2. Measure, turn up your hem and pin. NOTE: 3. Set the Machine S_tjtch ........ _-- St=i'_ch s_e_or_ _.... _ For light weight fabrics, you may need a double fold. Fold the material (wrong side out) on the edge to be stitched, as shown, leaving 1/4" of the finished hem edge showing. ....4, _ _ n__ rm_nt lmd_r_.,nr_r - rrluannDr fr_ _*i_ foot ".m. s___h a. .......... that __._.=................. _;tl be*_wc_on exteRded=ed_e:-_ Z_ _-tltch: ...... 5, Afterhemrr_ng, NOTE: Top thread tension control 1 to 4 The stretch blind hem is pressboth siclesofl"ne finishec3hbrn. The tops_ Of t_g_ent will Sh__bfFnd Sfitches_ " The stretch blind hem stitch also can be used for Lace Work. (See p. 2_66) Stitch length control 1 to 3 foot 27 ...... SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Buttonholes Set the Machine Stitch Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to5 Stitch length contro 17 1. a. Carefully length b. Change mark on your the buttonhole to the sliding buttonhole buttonhole b. foot c. NOTE: the Stitch Depending own upon may alter density in fabric buttonhole the blue range on the stitch length (_) For more toward (_) For 28 up with the mark markings the top mark (B). on the on your selector b. Sew forward front until marking of at I_1 you reach the your button- hole. c. Stop sewing at the left stitch. Lower the presser foot. The markings on the slider in centimeters. you stitch buttonhole dial. turn the dial the dial "0". toward NOTE: density, less Line (C} on the 3. a. Set the stitch or your buttonholes, the within meets the start you Density your preference mark are engraved j Adjusting the top (A) toward garment. c. you. slider slider foot Insert the garment under the foot with the buttonhole marking running toward the so that garment. foot. Sliding 2. a. Move Cb Fir/e stitches density, turn "'1"'. Always make tonhole on you plan to more suitable a practice a scrap stitch length. stitches for heavy fabrics but- of fabric use to find for light fabrics @ Course the i SECTION 4. a. Set the stitch selector at 51 al Set the Stitch _iect0r b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop sewing b. Sew until you reach at _ the i back marking of the buttonhole. at the right stitch. 6. a. _t the stitch selector ai_] b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop sewing m 3. LEARN THE STITCHES 7. Remove the fabric and cut the hole open with the buttonhole opener. at the left stitch. c. Stop sewing at the right stitch. sliding buttonhole and sewin reverse( foot as illustrated ____r_"l--,l_--_r_ LJ _J ILJ _ ). 29 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Sew in a Zipper Fabric Preparation : Set the Machine Put the gether right and length the of the fabric to- sew to the end of the zip- per opening. the stitches. Sew sides Use zipper at "4" and the reverse opening top with thread to Stitch Zipper 1I8") Stitch selector teeth Zipper lock tape stitch tension at "3". Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch length control 2 To Sew: 1. Fold back To sew the left side of the zipper, set the zipper foot on the left side of the needle. the left seam allowance as shown. Right side of fabric "\'_,_ Zipper foot \ Top edge of fabric < 2. Turn under ance to form 3. the right a 1/8" Place the zipper seam allow- 5. teeth Lower the zipper side at the fold. so that next to the 6. on the right of the zipper the needle pierces the fold and the zipper 1/8"" fold and pin in place. foot bottom tape. Sew through the fold per tape the to point and the zipwhere the slider begins. 7. Lower the needle to hold the fab- ric and raise the presser foot. 30 SECTION 8. Open Lower the zipper. the presser foot 10. and stitch Close the fabric right zipper and the turn side up. the rest of the seam. 11. TO sew the right side of the zipper, set the zipper foot on the right side of the needle. 14. 3, LEARN THE STITCHES Stop about 2" from the top of the the fabric zipper, 15. 12. Stitch across and below the bot- Lower and the raise needle the presser Remove the basting open zipper. into foot. tom of the zipper. 16. INVISIBLE 13. Turn the corner and continue to guide the foot along the zipper teeth, as shown. ZIPPER AND CORDING INVISIBLE ZIPPER 17. Lower the the foot and stitches stitch the and rest L shOwn. Follow the zipper manufacturer's inst- ructions. After zipper has been inserted, finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch. CORDING Foot can also be used to make cording for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown. NOTE: Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIPPER FOOT" (6757) for "invisible zipper" and "cording", which can be obtained at any Sears retail store, 31 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Shell Stitching (Models 12781 and 12681) Smocking Set the Machine Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 3 to 9 Stitch Stitch length control 1to 2 Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position Here's How 1. For best effect: - set the stitch length as you desire. -- Zigzag foot you may need to tighten the top thread - allow tension the needle clear the folded fabric when Zigzag foot slightly. to just edge of the it zigzags. With 2. The Stitch The Shell and Its Uses Stitch blind hem rows of shell stitching by sewing fabric. a Several are called shell tucks. Shell stitching _cking scalloped lingerie. 32 You can soft silky sew Shell wovens of shell 1/2" Stitch stitches, apart. on knits in any direction. the straight can be used to finish can tucks be used on to blouses stitch length stitching Knot the the threads bobbin and "4", sew 3/8" apart gathers evenly. other stitch along one edge, threads and distribute Secure end. between Sew the NOTE: Loosen tension easier. Pull the the threads the at decorative gathering Pull out the ga_ering create at lines across the area to be smocked. or the hems, sleeve and neck openings. Shell sew rows space the rows is formed over folded If you stitches. stitches. the to top make thread gathering SECTION Elastic Stretch Stitch (Model 12781 only) Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 LEARN THE STITCHES Box Stitching (Model 12781 only) Set the Machine Stitch 3. Set the Machine selector Stitch Stitch length control yellow Stitch Top thread tension control 1 to 4 selector Stitch length control 1 position ,\_ stretch stitch Use this stitch to join heavy weight interlining. L__J Zigzag foot Zigzag foot Overlap two raw edges together and use this stitch to join them. Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments. 1. Mark the elastic into quarters and match these to the center front, center back and side seams. Place the middle of the elastic under the center of the presser foot and stitch into place, making sure the fabric is evenly distributed. 33 SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART What to Do When PROBLEM PROBABLE Incorrect Irregular Stitches Breaking Needle CAUSE size needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin, Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot. Choose correct size needle for thread Rethread machine, and fabric. Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric. Reset needle, Reset presser foot. Bunching of Thread Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam. When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few sdtchs are formed. Puckering Incorrect thread tension(s). Using two different sizes or kinds of thread. Bent or blunt needle. Reset thread tension(s). Upper thread and bobbin Insert new needle. Reset presser foot. Loose presser foot. Fabric very sheer or very soft. 34 CORRECTION Use underlay thread of tissue paper. should be same size and kind. SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART What to Do When (Continued) PROBLEM Skipping Stitches Breaking Upper Thread PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needle. Bent or blunt needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric• Insert new needle. Reset needle. Loosen upper thread tension. Starting to stitch too fast, Improper threading. Tight upper thread tension_ Incorrect size needta. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Start to stitch at a medium speed. Rethread machine. Loosen upper thread temion .... correct size needle for thread and fabric. rnsert new need|e_ Replace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely. Improper bobbin case threading. Lint in bobbin case or shuttle. Check bobbin case threading. Clean bobbin caseand shuttle. Darning plate in place. Stitch Length set at O. Thread knotted under fabric. Remove darning plate. Adjust Stitch Length Control. Place both threads back under presserfoot before beginning to stitch. _Sha_ eye in_. Nicks or burrs on shuttle. Breaking Bobbin Thread Fabric not Moving CORRECTION 35 SECTION 5, CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Replacing the Light Bulb Cleaning the Machine To insure that your machine The feed dogs and shuttle is caught. Check operates at its best, you need to keep the essential race areas can attract and clean those areas about If you sew frequently, every three dust and lint. months under Your normal machine parts clean at all times. can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread use. clean more often. J I Clean the Feed Dogs // L 1. Unplug the machine and open the face cover. CAUTION! The light bulb will be HOT. Protect your fingers when you handle it. Follow these directions: Unplug 2. Push the bulb it. bulb counter-clockwise Put the new up and turning 36 up bulb and turn the to remove in by pushing it clockwise. it the presser foot machine. Remove and needle, Using a needle plate. screw driver, 2. Use a lint dogs. remove brush and clean the feed 3. Replace needle plate intoposition. . SECTION " • 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Clean the Shuttle Race This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Clean the shuttle race area • about every three months. Center pin of the shuttle Shuttle driver Lever Shuttle Lever CevGr i Shuttle Race Lever (Oil here) Bobbin case . To Clean the Shuttle 1. Raise point the needle Clean the -- bar :::c shuttle :ccc to its : race [ ' highest 1. case. t :_ with :=::_ "C7C7 a to form will Put a drop ot oil on the center pin of and shuttle over-oil. race. shuttle race as illustrated is forming half moon so that on the shuttle left side of the " lint the shuttle Position driver brush, 4. Race To Replace Shuttle Assembly: and remove the bobbin Z: 3. Area: Shuttle Cover 3. Do not a half moon on the rightside_ Pointed cover over hook be on the bottom. Place shuttle race into place shuttle assembly. 4. Snap the levers back into the original position. 37 SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Oiling the Machine Oil the machine in all areas shown on this page at least once a year; otherwise the machine can become sluggish or will knock loudly. If you use the machine frequently, oil the machine under the top cover about every three months. In case machine is not used for an extended time, oil it before sewing. Use good quality sewing machine oil. One or two drops of oil is sufficient. Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabric. Kenmore sewing machine oil is available at your nearest Searsretail store. NOTE: • Unplug the machine before oiling. Remove needle and put needle bar in full down position. • Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the Arm Cover Plate Facecoverplate / / ] Open face cover plate and/or remove arm cover plate by loosening up top screw to oil points in illustration. Use only a drop of oil; do not over-oil. 38 Oil the Underside Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on the left side of the cover, Tilt the machine head back and remove bottom cover. Oil points in illustration. PARTS LIST 1 All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Searsstore or service center. 2 3 4 5 6 WHEN ORDERING INFORMATION: REPAIR PARTS, 1. PART NUMBER 3. MODEL NUMBER ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING 2. PART DESCRIPTION 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling. Ref. No. 7 1 8 2 3 4 5 13 Part No. 14 15 16 6 7 8 9 47 _ 17 18 19 20 Shuttle bbin case 6st0 1939 813404013 6551 6552 6553 6554 652508002 648801108 650802003 735503007 _i='_'_'_¸= 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 2O 21 Description 135 *6864 6797 6830 802424004 820832005 41669 *6889 735801008 Bobbinbox wlthlO_ Bobbin winder rubber ring No. 1.1 Stretch fabric needles (BLU) No. 11 Single needles (ORG) No. 14 Single needles (RED) No. 16 Single needles (PUR} No. 18 Single needles (GRN) Needle clamp with screw Sliding buttonhole foot Straight stitch foot Standard zigzag foot ¸ Thumb screw Needle threader Light bulb Buttonhole opener Lint brush Large screw driver Small screw driver Oil and lint brush Darning plate *These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per instructions above. 39 INDEX A Accessory storage box ............... Adjusting stretch stitch balance ......... Applique ........................ Arm cover plate .................. 2, 6 15 22 3, 38 Feed dogs ....................... Foot control .................... 36 3_4 Free arm sewing .................... 6 H Hand wheel ..................... 3, 16 B Bar tacking ...................... 22 Basic zigzag ...................... 20 Blind hemming .................... 27 Bobbin ................... 3, 8 "_ 9, 39 Bobbin case ................ 8"9, 37, 39 Bobbin thread .................. 11_12 Bobbin winding .................. 8_9 Bobbin winding tension disc ........... 2, 9 Bobbin winding spindle .............. 2, 9 Box stitching ..................... 33 Buttonhole .................... 28_29 Buttonhole opener ............. 3, 29, 39 Button sewing .................... 23 C Cabinet .......................... 2 Carrying handle .................... Changing needle .................... Changing presser foot ................ Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race Clutch knob ................... Cording ........................ Cornering guide ................... 3 6 6 .... 36_37 3, 8, 9 3t 17 D Darning ........................ Darning plate ........... 19 3, 18 _ 19, 23, 39 E Elastic stretch stitch ................ Extension table ................... 33 2, 6 I Invisible zipper ..................... 31 L Lace work ....................... Large screw driver ................. Light and power switch ............. Light bulb ................... Lint brush ................... 26 3, 39 3_4 4, 36, 39 3, 36, 39 N Needle ................... Needle clamp screw .............. Needle plate .................... Needle, thread and fabric chart 3, 6 _ 7, 39 3, 6, 39 2, 36 .......... 7 O Oiling .......................... Overcasting stitch .................. Overcast stretch stitching ............. 38 24 25 P Parts list ........................ Performance problems chart ........ Pine leaf stretch stitching ............. Plug connector ................... Portable case ...................... Power switch ...................... Presser foot ....................... Presser foot lever .................. 39 34_35 25 3_4 2 4 3 3, 5 R F Fabric, needle, thread and stitch length chart ....................... Face cover plate .................. 40 7 2, 38 Replacing bobbin case .............. Reverse stitch control .............. Rick rack stretch .................. 8_9 2, 15 24 S Satin stitch Satin stitch foot ........... ...................... 3, 21 _ 22, 39 21 Seam guides ...................... Serging ......................... Sewing light ....................... Shell stitching .................... Shuttle ....................... Shuttle cover ..................... Shuttle race ...................... Sliding buttonhole Small screw driver foot ...... ................. Smocking ....................... Spool pin ....................... Stitch length control ............... Stitch selector ................... Straight Straight Straight stitch .................. stitch foot .......... stretch .................... 17 25. 4 32 37, 39 2, 8 37 3, 28 _ 29, 39 3, 39 32 2, 5 2, 14 2, 14 i 7--i8 3, 17_19, 39 19 T Thread cutter Thread Thread Thread guide ...................... take-up lever ............... tensions ................. ..................... Three-step zigzag .................. Topstitching ..................... Top thread .................... Top thread tension ............... Top thread tension control ............. Turn a square corner ................ 2, 5 2 , 2, 10 12_13 26 18 10_13 12_13 2 17 Z Zigzag foot ...... 17_20, 22_27, 32_33, 39 Zigzag stitches .................. 20_26 Zipper application ............... 30_31 Zipper foot ............... 3, 30_31, 39 MEMO MEMO WARRANTY FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY For 25 years from ---" • in the mechanical - FULL For _1 the date of purchase, components TWO YEAR two appear years from in the ON SEWING of purchase, equipment HEAD free of charge, machine defects in material or workmanship which appear ; i) EQUIPMENT Sears will, of the sewing repair head. ON ELECTRICAL the date electrical Sears will, of the sewing WARRANTY MACHINE '= free of machine, OF SEWING charge, including repair MACHINE defects electronic _) in material components, or workmanship motor, wiring, which switch and speed control. FULL 90-DAY 90 days WARRANTY # For from 11 ne_-_sa_ #er prep_ _ CENTER/DEPARTMENT This warranty ON ALL the date of purchase, AND MECHANICAL Sears will, free ADJUSTMENTS of charge, e_n_ m_rhln= nnrm2t of _he ........ ............ except fc¢ ......... • IN THE gives you specific PARTS UNITED legal rights, replace # any parts and mechanical STATES. # and you may also have other ROEBUCK AND service __= m_i_, rights which Vary from state to state. ._-; SEARS, provide CO., D/817 WA, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179 =-