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N S T S RUCTION MODEL 20/21 / 23/1206/1300. ZIG-ZAG SEWING MACHINE IRDEX Adjusting Bobbin: for Good Stitching ......... Placement 26 Oiling Inserting & Threading Picking up Bobbin Removing - .......... Thread 8 ......... 10 ................. ................ Instructions Overcasting Parts List 6 Presser Foot, 7 Presser Foot Buttonholes .................. 17 Sewing Light 21 Stitch Stitch Cleaning .................. Connecting Corner, .............. 4 ................ .................... Fastening Feed Machine Turning Darning 22,23 Identification, Head Hem Parts Installing Machine Head Inserting & Removing ........ Zigzag .................. in Cabinet Material ........ ...... Size ................. Needle & Thread Chart 4 11 16 11 1 t ,16 16 Tension: Thread 2,3 Thread 4 Threading: 14 Bobbin Case ............... 8 Upper Thread ............... 9 5 ........... 10 Lower Needle: Needle ...... Upper 18,19 .......... 15 Stitching: ................ 15 Blind Stitched Length ................ Width ................ Straight ............... ........... ................ 20 Dog Control 27 Adjusting .................. 1! Hems: Pressure, Reverse ............... 21 Changing 15 a Seam 22,23 .................. .................. .................... ............ ................ Winding Buttons 5 5 ............... ............... Thread Chart ............... What To Do ............... 12 13 5 24,25 FRONT VIEW ® // @" q,,, 1. Bobbin WinderSpmdle 2. Bobbin Winder Latch 3. Stitch Width Control 4. Stttch Width Limlter 5. 6. 7. Stitch Length Control Reverse Stitch Push Button Light Switch 8. 9. I0. 1 t_ 12. 13. 14, Feed Dog Controi Nomenclature Plate Needle Plate Needle Clamp Screw Feed Dog Hand Hole Cover Plate Presser Foot 15. Presser Foot Screw 16. Thread Guides 17. Upper Thread Tension Control 18. Thread Take-up Lever 19. Upper Thread Guide 20. Bobbin Winder Thread Guide BACK VIEW @ 21. 22. Presser Foot Pressure 23. Presser Foot Lever 26. Clutch Release Regulator 24. Thread 27. Thread Face Plate 25. Hand Wheel 28. Blind Stitch Knob {Models 21, 1300 only} Cutter Spool Pins INSTALLING AND MACHINE HEAD IN PORTABLE CABINET Loosen the two machine bed (!). hinge screws under holes in the rear edge of the Raise hinge pins in the cabinet cutout (2). Slip machine head onto the pins and tighten hinge screws securely (3). Lower machine head to front flap. Screw spool pins in place. Lay the plastic discs over the spool pins. Discs and pins are packed in the accessory box. SEWING LIGHT (Modets 21, 1300 only) The sewing light is located inside the face plate as shown. It may be turned on or off by pushing the light switch. TO remove the bulb, disconnect the sewing machine and swing open the face plate. Push bulb m slightly, turn it counterclockwise and remove. To replace, illustration 4. push new CONNECTING MACHINE bulb in and turn clockwise. See Push foot or knee control connector onto connector under the machine bedplate, or over the motor. See illustration 5. Push the two prong plug of the control into any 110-120 V° wall outlet. When installing in cabinet, insert grommet with cord in bedplate. NEEDLE THREAD SIZE _i_-r._EDLE ISIZE Cotton 60-100 11 Synthetic Silk A Cotton 60-80 Mercerized 50 FABRIC Sheer cottons, Fine Laces Medium 14 Synthetic Silk A silks Medium weight synthetics heavy duty Cotton 30-50 Mercerized heavy duty Medium Heavy 18 weight Raise take-up lever to its highest positron by turning hand wheel toward you. Loosen needle clamp screw. cottons weight Heavy 16 weight weight PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE silks, and synthetics Medium Light Cotton 40-60 Mercerized 50 Mercerized THREAD TABLE Hold woolens drapery woolens fabrics Heaviest cottons as for men's work Heaviest woolen coating so that the fiat side is to your nght, slip bhmt end of needle as far as _t will go into needle clamp. Tighten needle into place with clamp screw. cottons to heavy weight needle clothes NEEDLE 51ZE Use KENMOtLE needles. The size of the needle should of the thread and both should be suitable to the material. conform The same size thread should be used in the bobbin as on the upper machine for ordinary sewing. Never use a bent needle nor one with a blunt point. to the size part of the This is the exact length of the needle to be used in your machine. Comparison with this illustration will determine t whether the needle you have is the correct one for your machine. Flat side faces to righ t. REMOVING BOBBINCASEFROMSHUTTLE lever Take up at its highest position. 1/ Pull out latch. .° Pull bobbin case straight out. / t WINDING THE BOBBIN 0 Place post. shown. 0 thread on Draw spool thread as 0 0 Wind thread bobbin a few front to back. Release clutch by turning clutch knob toward you. 8tart machine. around times, 0 Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft. Push bobbin winder latch until it clicks. When bobbin ing mechanism is full, windstops. 0 Tighten remove clutch bobbin. knob and INSERTINGBOBBININTO BOBBINCASE_CASEiNTO SHUTTLE O" _IP @ Guide onto bobbin Pull thread through Pull thread under Holding latch, center pm of bobbin case. slot. tension spring. position case into shuttle, then release latch. 0 i I,,_,,ILJ,II i Place UPPERMACHINE THREADING thread Thread Prevent by the the loop thread up can thread _n proper Release machine of end and be tension return between discs of the Control. spool holding wire will as illustrated Tension thread from of the thread past the top slipped into Js released, to posit_on 1;urntng pull hook the and spr_ng unti_ hook. the When the spring as shown with the wire thread loop continue to thread place. spool of thread as illustrated, and PICKING UPBOBBIN THREAD Rinse presser foot lever. Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper thread (See illustration). Place threads back under presser foot. ADJUSTING THEPRESSURE OFTHEPRESSER FOOT Push down outer ring of presser foot pressure regulator _See illustration). This will release pressure of presser foot. To increase pressure, push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained. For ordinary sewing, the inner pin should be about half way down. When sewing multiple thickness or heavy matenat, reduce the pressure. Increase it when sewing sheer fabncs. Insufficzent pressure may cause skipped stitches or difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dog or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure. I0 SETTINGSTITCHLENGTH Turn knob toany desiredstitchlengthpositionbetween 0 and 5. At No. 5, the longes_stitchis obtained.The sizeof stitchyou selectwilldepend on the fabricyou are sewing. The blindstitchknob must be on the "OFF" position for alloperationsexcept blind stitching.{Models 21, 1300 only) For straightstitchingthe stitch width controlmust be se_ at 0. 7 REVERSE STITCHING To sew in reverse, push the reverse stitch button as far in as possible. Keep the button pushed as long as you need reverse stitching. When you cease pushing, the button returns and the machine stitches forward. FASTENING A SEAM Be sure both threads are drawn back about 4 inches under the presser foot. Lower needle into fabnc about ½ inch from beginning of seam. Lower presser foot, push reverse button for reverse stitching. Stztch backwards until needle reaches beginning of seam. Release button for forward sUtching and complete seam. When you reach the end of the seam, push reverse button and sew back over ½ inch of comptered seam. This is called back tacking. ADJUSTING TENSIONS A perfect stitch wilt have threads locked between of fabric with no loops on top or bottom. Fig. 1 PROBLEM Upper thread too REMEDY tight Decrease Tension ,.._!! li Fig. 2 Upper thread too loose Increase Fig. t2 the two layers 3 NOTE: Never adjust more than one number at a time÷ Tension ,, ','_ '_ INCREASE TENSION When stitching is unsatisfactory as in figures 2 and 3, adjust the upper thread tension. Lower thread tension requires adjustment less frequently tension. than the upper thread Turn When stitch is satisfactory, seam is badly puckered, Clockwise. as in figure I and the cause may be tight tensions and both upper may be adjusted. (See page 26) and lower When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments with a screwdriver. (See page 26) DECREASE TENSiOH Turn Counter Clockwise. 13 INSERTING ANDREMOVING THE MATERIAL For all kinds of sewing, consult chart page 5. Before placing the material on the machine see that: Place material into the under material the presser by turning foot, insert the hand the needle wheel toward you, lower presser foot and start sewing. • The presser tight. foot and needle clamp screws are both facilitate presser • The sizes of needle to be done. and thread suit the kind of work - The needle and the thread highest position. take-up lever are at their . The ends of threads have been drawn about to the rear of the machine. 4 inches and width 14 the controls are set at desired by sewing on the fabric tension adjustments and to be used to correct stitch of heavy presser foot fabrics lever under can the be raised beyond the normal "'up" position. To remove the work, first turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle and the thread take-up lever are at their highest position, then raise the presser foot, draw material to the rear and cut off excess thread with the you! thread When cutter Always the machine piece of material ser foot. Expenment determine settings. placement foot, IMPORTANT: • The feed dogs are up. • Stitch length settings. To when machine Without on the presser bar. turn the hand wheel toward is not being used, place a over the feed dog and lower the pres- Always operating located have the machine. fabric lint into the shuttle. fabric under the presser Operating foot threaded will cause it to jam by forcing See Pages 22 & 23. TURNINGA CORNER Stop your sewing machine thbric, Raise presser foot. tion. Lower FEED presser and make sure needle is in Turn fabric to desired direc- foot and go on with your stztching. COHTROL This knob is situated on right front of machine bed. When knob is turned to the left, feed dog does not move material Thzs allows the operator freedom of movement of materml. For regular sewing, turn knob to the right. "'U" (Feed dog up), CHANGING THE PRESSER FEET The various presser feet availabie for certain work are to be fastened to the presser IJar, kinds of To attach the foot, raise the presser bar to its highest position by raising the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the front. Tighten the screw using the large screwdriver and make sure that the foot is secure. 15 ZIGZAGCONTROL To produce The indicator a zigzag stitch, on the stitch turn the stitch width control width limiter B upward. knob A points As the knob to the numerical setting. is moved up, the stitch The width becomes knob can be manually wider. turned to a higher number, but the limiter must be rolled downward to produce a narrower zigzag stitch. Zig-zag stitch width Increases from No. I setting to the No. 5 setting. Straight stitching is possible only when the knob Is at thc 0 position. Zig-zag stitching will be practical for repairing elastic garments, points of strain, binding blankets, and st_tchlng darts m mtcrfacmgs. seaming knitted garments, overcasting seams, tacking BUTTONHOLES Stitch length about V__ Stitch width about 2 Feed dog control 1. 2. 3. 4. to right Stitch forward until desired length for buttonhole is obtained. Stop with needle on tlle left side of stitching (A). Drop leed dog, set stitch width control on 2Vz and take one stitch to the right (B). Raise presser foot and turn material with needle in material. Lower presser foot and take one stitch to the left (C). Turn stitch width control to 5 and sew 4 stitches. This method of fastening the ends of buttonhoies is eNled bartaeking. Bartaking should be completed with needle on the left side (D). Set stitch width back to 2. Raise feed dogs and sew back to other end of buttonhole. Stop w_th needle oil tile left (E). 5. Turn stitch width control to 5. Drop feed dog and bartack. Raise feed dog. It is recommended that tailor's chalk be used to determine length of buttonhole before sewing. For a firm buttonhole, tile stitching can be repeated over the same area, then cut buttonhole opening. For a professional look to your buttonho|e use an interfacing between the layers of fabric. C A E 17 HEMS BLIND STITCH (Models 21, 1300 only) The Blind Stitch on the operations _8 "OFF" except Knob position HEM must be for all blind stitching. 1, Prepare the hem with a turned and edgestitched finish, or 2_ Apply seam tape along the raw edge with eitner straight or zig zag stitching, then fold hem as shown. 3. Make second fold as shown. 4_ Turn blind stitch knob (black arrow) to the "ON" position. Set stitch width at 0 and stitch length 2-3 €as desired). Then, blind stitch along fold until hem is completed. 5_ Unfold, exposing right side of material with completed blind stitching. Press hem. _9 DARHJHG WITH PRES51ER FOOT : 1. Turn feed dog control 2. Press down outer tion mending, to left. ring of presser monogram foot pressure regulator, see page 10. With regulator In this posi- work, etc. may be done. 3. Stretch fabric tightly between two spring embroidery hoops and place under needle. The presser bar can be raised to accommodate the embroidery hoop by pulling up on the presser foot lever. 4. Lower presser bar so thread will have some tension. When you start to darn, move fabric back and forth to cover darning area. Then turn fabric and continue sewing at right-angles to the previous stitching. Always use medium machine speed. You can make any length stitches d_sired. Slow movement of fabric wilt make short darning stitches. Fast movement will make tong stitches. 5. WITHOUT When you finish darning, raise presser foot and remove fabric. by pressing center pin of presser foot pressure regulator. Turn feed dog control to right. PRESSER FOOT i. Turn feed dog control 2. 5. 2O Remove presser foot. Proceed as directed Increase pressure for general sewing : to left. under steps 3 and 4 above. When you finish darning, raise the presser Turn feed dog control to right. bar and remove fabric. Replace presser foot. SEWINGON BUTTONS 1. Turn feed dog control to left. Place needle into left hole of button, align holes with slot of presser foot and lower presser foot. 2. Set stitch width control at width between holes of button. Test width by turning handwheet slowly. Take several zigzag stitches sew on button, ending with needle on left side. 3. Set stitch width control button to lock threads. Pull threads at 0. Take a few stitches to in left hole of to wrong side. NOTE: To make a small thread place a stra:ght shank pin or needle when sewing on a flat button. between the holes of the button. OVERCASTING Set stitch width to 5. Set stitch length at 5. Zigzag stitch around edge of fabric to completely cover the edge. raw 21 CLEAHIHG AHDOILiHG ............ Keep the moving parts free from dust and threads for quiet and efficient operation. Cleaning should be done with a small brush, never with a sharp or pointed tool. When machine runs hard or makes excessive noise, place a drop of KENMORE sewing machine oil at the points indicated by arrows. To oil top of _e machine, place a few drops of oil through the holes on the top cover plate while the needle is at the lowest point, or remove top cover plate by unsm_ewing two screws and oil at the points indicated by arrows. (Model 1206) Tilt machine head back to oil points indicated on underside of machine hexad. / 22 ShuttleRaceCover ShuttleAssembly It may be necessary to clean the shuttle L Raise the needle bar to its highest 2. Push levers sideways 3. Clean the shuttle 4. Put a drop of oil on the center To reassemble, Slip shuttle Occasionally, of the shuttle point and assembiy remove race cover into place. bobbin and lift shuttle pin of the shuttle by center Shttle Race area occasionally. race of any tint or small particles hold shuttle remove Shuttle of thread case. and shuttlc pro. with a small brush. and on shuttle pin and fit carefully race cover out by the center race (see arrows). into assembly opposite the shuttle driver. Snap the levers into position. the needle plate and clean feed dog with a soft brush. 23 WHATTO PROBLEM PROBABLE Incorrect CAUSE s_ze needte. Improper [breading, Loose upper thread trregular Stitches Pulling Light Bunching of Th read tension. on presser toot. foot. wound Tighten not Increase Reset bobbin, Rewind Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. upper pull pressure bobbin and fabric (page 5), (page 12). it gently. on presser foot (page 10). fabric; 7). guide it gently. size needle for thread and fabric (page 5). (page 5). Reset presser foot, both threads back under presser foot {page 10), Raise feed dog. thread tension{s). on presser Using two different of thread. foot. sizes or kinds Reset thread tension {s) (page 12. 13). increase pressure on presser foot (page 10). Upper thread Bent or brunt needle. Loose presser foot. tnsert and bobbin new needle Fabric too sheer or too soft. Use underlay thread should be same size and kind, (page 5), Reset presser foot. i 24 thread tension guide (page correct Draw pressure for 9). foot. Upper drawn Light thread presser Reset needle Incorrect needle (page fabric; Incorrect setting of needle, Loose presser foot. and lower threads not back under presser fool size machine Do not puIl Choose Feed dog down. Puckering correct Rethread Do pressure Unevenly Breakmg Needles Choose fabric. Loose presser COR RECTION of tissure paper or tarleton , i i i i when stitching. WHATTO PROBLEM PROBABLE tncorrect size needle, Bent or blunt Skipping Stitches Machine Jamming (Knocking Noise) Insert size needle new needle Increase pressure on presser foot. to stitch too fast. Start pressure to stitch Rethread threading. and fabric foot (page 10). speed. (page 9). Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle. Loosen upper thread tension (page 12). Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric Sharp eye in needle. Insert new needle (page 5). bobbin Tight bobbin Lint in bobbin case threading. thread tension_ case or shuttle. Check bobbin case threading Loosen bobbin Clean bobbin thread tensEon case and shuttle (page 13). (page 22 & 23). Raise feed dog. Light pressure on presser foot. Threads kno-.ted under fabric. Increase pressure on presser foot {page 10). Place both threads back under presser foot before Thread Disassemble m shuttle. i ,H and clean shuttle (page 5). (page 8). Feed dog down. caught (page 5). (page 12L on presser at a medium machine for thread (page 5). Light Improper Fabric not Movi ng Choose correct needle. Reset needle (page 5). Loosen upper thread tension Improper Breaking Bobbin Thread CORRECTION Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension. Starting Breaking Upper Thread CAUSE beginning to stitch. (page 22 & 23). llllll 25 ADJUSTING YOURSEWINGMACHIHE FORGOODSTITCHES When your sewing machine Insert a new needle for needle size. . of.the The upper and bobbin 3. Check threading 4. Check the does not sew a properly thread carefully. thread correct tension locked size for the thread stitch, check the following: and fabric you are using. Consult chart on page five should be the same thread. See page 8-9. balance. Use mercerized thread and a correct size needle for the fabric you are using. Do not try this test with synthetic thread as it will not break. Begin with a full bobbin, properly threaded into the case. Set the stitch length at about 12 stitches per inch. Fold a six inch square of your fabric in half diagona!ly, forming a triangle. Make a line of stitching ½"" from fold. a. b. c. If seam is puckered-both tensions are too tight. If the bottom thread lays on the fabric-tighten upper thread tension, and repeat See page 12, Figure 3. If the top thread lays on the fabric-loosen upper thread tension and repeat test. See page 12, Figure 2. Grasp the stitching 26 and pull evenly and firmly until one or both threads a. b. If both threads break-tensions If neither thread breaks-both are balanced. tensions are too loose. c. d. If upper thread breaks-loosen If lower thread breaks-tighten upper tension. upper tension. test. break. Both threads do not have to break at the same place, but they should break on the same snap. Bobbin tension may be reset by the following procedure. Start with a loose bobbin thread tension. Tighten the spring screw gradually -until bobbin case and full bobbin can be gently lifted from your hand by the end of the bobbin thread. PARTS LIST All parts listed hem may be ordered through mail order house. your nearest When ordering these parts, please be sure to mention Sears or $impsens-Sears the following references: 1. Model & serial numbers of machine shown on the nomenclature 2. Parts number(s) and description(s) here. When ordering by mail, prices will be furnished on request, be billed accordingly. 1 2 5 3 J 6 9 1 plate. See page 2. or parts will be shipped at prevailing prices and you will Ref. No. Parts No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 135 201201 8286 2273 4607 6741 b7 10 retail stem, catalog sales office or 6742 6743 11 6744 \ 201709 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 1939 6862 6510 47 6902 3015 3016 Description Presser foot thumb screw Needle clamp Thread spool pin Nylon disc Presser foot Pack of #11 needles (Yellow pack) Pack of #t4 needles (Red pack) Pack of#16 needles (Green pack) Pack of #18 needles (Blue pack) Bobbin winder thread and top thread guide Bobbin winder rubber nng Pack of bobbin (10 pcs ) Bobbin case Shuttle hook Motor rubber belt Large screwdriver Small screwdriver 27 SEWING MACHINE SEARS; ROEBUCK SIMPSONS-SEARS AND CO., Chicago, IL 60684 U.S.A. and LiMiTED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada Part No. 55053.