Download Eagle and Z-Bike Service Manual

Eagle and Z-Bike
Service Manual
February 2007
1
Foreword
This service manual contains information on servicing the Eagle and Z-Bike.
This manual is written for use as a guideline only. It is recommended that any
technician, with or without sufficient experience, thoroughly read through the
manual and only attempt to service those areas that are fully understood in
accordance with the guidelines provided by this manual. For fully qualified
technicians, this manual supplies service data necessary for repairs and
maintenance. It is highly recommended that a qualified technician, regardless
of technical level, should study the service manual in full before attempting
service on the Eagle and Z-Bike.
Safety is our primary concern; please always use the proper safety precautions
when working with any machinery. Safety glasses should be worn at all times.
All the data and diagrams provided in this service manual are valid at the time
of publication.
Information may be updated without notice due to
improvements or upgrades.
No quotation, reproduction, or reprint of the service manual, as a whole or in
part, will be permitted without the express written consent from Dixie Sales
Company.
2
Table of Contents
Chapter 1 ...............................................................................5
General Specifications ....................................................................................... 5
Initial Set-Up Information................................................................................5
Specifications...................................................................................................6
Torque Specifications.......................................................................................7
Service and Adjustment Intervals ....................................................................8
Air Filter ........................................................................................................... 11
Eagle .............................................................................................................. 11
Z-Bike ............................................................................................................ 11
Chapter 2 .............................................................................13
Fuel System....................................................................................................13
Carburetor Removal.......................................................................................14
Carburetor Disassembly.................................................................................16
Carburetor Cleaning and Inspection ..............................................................18
Carburetor Reassembly ..................................................................................19
Fuel Tank, Float Sensor, Line, Shut-Off Valve and Filter..............................23
Chapter 3 .............................................................................26
Electrical ........................................................................................................... 26
Electrical Schematic ........................................................................................ 36
Chapter 4 .............................................................................37
Engine ............................................................................................................37
Engine Trouble Shooting Chart .....................................................................37
Engine Removal.............................................................................................38
Engine Disassembly.......................................................................................41
Engine Inspection...........................................................................................46
Valve Train .....................................................................................................47
Engine Reassembly ........................................................................................49
Chapter 5 .............................................................................56
Drive System and Kick Start..........................................................................56
Trouble Shooting............................................................................................56
Belt Removal, Inspection, and Replacement .................................................57
Clutch System................................................................................................... 58
Driver and Driven Clutch...............................................................................58
Secondary Clutch ...........................................................................................60
Kick Starter ...................................................................................................60
Kick Starter ....................................................................................................61
Gear Box ........................................................................................................62
Chapter 6 .............................................................................64
Brakes ............................................................................................................... 64
Front/Rear Hydraulic Brakes .........................................................................64
Removal of Brake Line and Reservoir...........................................................66
Chapter 7 .............................................................................67
Controls............................................................................................................. 67
Speedometer and Cable..................................................................................67
Adjusting the Throttle Cable..........................................................................68
Adjusting Engine RPM (Idle) ........................................................................68
Throttle Cable ................................................................................................69
Chapter 9 .............................................................................70
Suspension and Steering.................................................................................. 70
Rear Shock .....................................................................................................70
Front Shocks ..................................................................................................71
Steering ..........................................................................................................72
Chapter 1
General Specifications
Initial Set-Up Information
Transmission Gear Oil
Use 5 ounces of a multi-grade motor oil SAE 90 or 85W-140.
Break-In Procedure
To insure maximum durability and optimal performance and to avoid engine damage,
do not operate Eagle and Z-Bike at more than half throttle for the first three hours.
During the break-in period operate the vehicle at various RPM’s and do not operate
the vehicle above half throttle for extended periods.
Engine
The Eagle and Z-Bike is a four-stroke, carbureted engine. It requires the use of a
quality 10W-40 four stroke engine oil and should never be run without oil in the
crankcase. Extreme damage to the motor will result.
Ignition System
The ignition system installed on Eagle and Z-Bike is the Computerized Digital
Ignition (CDI) type. Only minimum maintenance is required for this type of system.
Chassis
The chassis is constructed of mild steel tubing. If any frame repairs are necessary,
oxyacetylene welding can be used. If wire feed or arc welding is used, use extreme
care and disconnect the battery and all other electrical devices to avoid damage, while
welding.
Specifications
MODEL
Eagle and Z-Bike 150cc
DISPLACEMENT
150cc
LUBRICATION
OIL PUMP
TRANSMISSION
AUTOMATIC (C.V.T. V-BELT)
SPARK PLUG
NGK
BATTERY
12V-9ah
FUEL TANK
1.19 Gallons
SEAT HEIGHT
30 inches
WHEEL BASE
49.6 inches
CLAIMED DRY WEIGHT
pounds
FRONT BRAKE
Hydraulic Disk
REAR BRAKE
Drum/(Some models do have hydraulic disk in the rear)
FRONT SUSPENSION
OIL DAMPED, 50cc’s of number 3 oil
REAR SUSPENSION
OIL DAMPED
FRONT TIRE
Front 110/80-10
REAR TIRE
Rear 110/80-11
*SPECIFICATIONS SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT ANY NOTICE. *
Torque Specifications
Use the standard torque for all items that are not listed.
Please note that the following charts list torque values in either inch or foot pounds.
Standard Torque:
Type
Torque
5 mm Screw
34 inch pounds
6 mm Screw
60-84 inch pounds
6 mm Hex Washer Face Bolt / Nut
100 inch pounds
8 mm Hex Washer Face Bolt / Nut
180-240 inch pounds
10 mm Hex Washer Face Bolt / Nut
37-41 foot pounds
Engine
Cylinder Head Nuts
Flywheel Nut
Clutch Cover Nut
Left and Right side engine cover bolts
Crankcase bolts
Primary Clutch nut
Secondary Clutch nut
Gear Case Oil-check Screw
Muffler to Exhaust Pipe
Diameter
(mm)
8
10
10
8
8
10
10
8
6/8
Rocker Arm nuts
Valve Cover Bolts
Starter bolts
Timing Chain Tensioner
Spark Plug
Crank Shaft Case bolt
12
8
10
8
14
6
CHASSIS
Handle Bar Steering Stem Clamp
Front Wheel Axle Nut
Rear Axle Nut
Steering Stem Nut
Rear Brake Arm Screw
Upper Screw of Rear Shock Absorber
Lower Screw of Rear Shock Absorber
Engine Mounting Bracket
Diameter
(mm)
14
10
14
5
10
8
8
Locking Torque
13-15 foot pounds
37-41 foot pounds
27 foot pounds
6-7.4 foot pounds
6-7.4 foot pounds
37-41 foot pounds
37-41 foot pounds
109 inch pounds
6-89-108 inch pounds
8-15-22 foot pounds
9-12 foot pounds
6-9 foot pounds
9-12 foot pounds
6-7.4 foot pounds
118 inch pounds
84 inch pounds
Locking Torque
6-9 foot pounds
41-56 foot pounds
41-56 foot pounds
33-41 foot pounds
50 inch pounds
28 foot pounds
19 foot pounds
42 foot pounds
Service and Adjustment Intervals
The following service and adjustment charts are for general riding only. If the Eagle
and Z-Bike is used in dusty, wet, or other extreme conditions, the service intervals
should be increased to avoid damage to the equipment.
1. “○” equals when item should be checked.
2. “☆” equals when the part should be replaced or serviced.
Service Items
Operating Device
Handle-Bar- check for play
Wheels- Right/left turn round angle
Brake- Play
Test Ride
Adjust
Service Time (month)
Item To Do
Before 1st Every Every
riding Time 6 mo. 12 mo.
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
Brake Fluid
○
○
○
○
Cables- Loose Connections, broken or
pinched cables
Brake Hub wear limits
○
○
○
○
Remarks
Play
Handle , handle front
1/8” – ¼”
Fill with DOT 4
approved brake fluid
(mm)
Front
Standard
85
diameter
Max wear limits 85.5
Rear
130
130.7
Service Items
Service Time (month)
Item To Do
Before 1st Every Every
riding Time 6 mo. 12
mo.
Remarks
Riding Device cont..
Tire
Tire Pressure
○
Tires Wear
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
Wheel bolt & nut
Tightness of front bearing
Tightness of rear bearing
Shock Absorber
Spring - damage
- oil leakage or damage
Power transmission device
Gear Box
Electric Equipment
Spark plug
Battery terminal
Electrical wiring– loose connections,
pinched or broken wires
Instrument Panel
Turn Signals
Brake/Tail Light
Head Light
Horn
Normal
Max.
Min.
Tread Depth---front wheel till 3 mm
Rear wheel till 3
mm
Blocking torque
Front wheel – 41-56 Foot pounds
Rear wheel – 41-56 Foot pounds
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
SAE 90 or 85W-140
○
○
Spark plug gap 0.024-0.028 in. (0.6~0.7
mm)
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
The Rider should check these items for
proper operation before each use to
ensure the safety of the rider.
Service Items
Starting & abnormal noise
Low speed & accelerating
Exhaust
Air filter
Lubrication System
Oil and oil filter
Oil leakage
Fuel System
Fuel filter is dirty / Clogged
Leakage of fuel
Throttle & choke operation
Fuel Lines
Exhaust pipe & muffler
Loose or damaged components
Muffler operation
Cleaning combustion chamber , exhaust
pipe , and carbon build-up in muffler
DRIVE CHAIN and/or Belt
Check the tension of the drive chain/belt
Others - greasing Joints
Service Time
Item To Do:
Remarks
Before 1st Every Every
riding Time 6 mo. 12 mo.
○
○
○
○ Idle : 1800±100 rpm
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
☆
☆
○
○
○
○
☆
○
○
○
○
○
○
○
Check the oil level
○
○
Every 2 years
○
Tolerance: 10~20mm
○
○
○
Change oil and
filter after 5
hours of use
Air Filter
The air filter inside the air filter housing must be kept clean to provide good engine
performance. If the Eagle and Z-Bike is used under normal conditions, service the
filter at the intervals specified. If operated in dusty, wet, or muddy conditions inspect
and service the filter more frequently. Use the following procedure to remove the
filter and inspect and/or clean it. Also check the mounting clamps for the air intake
tube.
Eagle
1. To access the air filter, lift seat and remove the screws holding the cover in
place.
Z-Bike
1. Remove the screws that hold the filter cover to the
filter base housing
2. Remove the 2 screws that hold the air filter in place,
remove the filter.
3. Clean the prefilter using hot soapy water. Rinse and squeeze dry.
Failure to inspect the air filter frequently can damage the engine. If the Eagle
and Z-Bike is used in dusty, wet, or muddy conditions, proper maintenance of
the air filter is a must for proper operation of the unit.
A torn air filter can cause damage to the engine. Dirt and dust may get inside
the engine if the element is torn. Carefully examine the element for tears
before and after cleaning it. Replace the element with a new one if it is torn.
Clean any dirt or debris from inside the air cleaner box. Be sure no dirt enters the air
intake tube or carburetor.
Install the air filter and cover. Place the filter in the air filter housing making sure it is
properly seated. Tighten all the screws to secure the cover Install air filter housing and
secure with the two cap screws
Chapter 2
Fuel System
Precautions:
¾ Use caution when working around gasoline.
¾ Fuel line and cables must be routed correctly.
Trouble Shooting
Will not start
Rough idle speed
Unit running to lean
Mixed air too rich
No Fuel in tank
Fuel line blocked
Vent in fuel cap or
carburetor obstructed
Crankcase and/or cylinder
has too much fuel in it
Air filter is clogged
Idle speed adjustment set to
low.
Low compression pressure
Weak ignition system
Air screw on carburetor
needs adjusting
Air filter is dirty
Idle speed nozzle is
clogged
Main nozzle is clogged
Gasoline filter is clogged
Fuel tank or carburetor vent
is clogged
Fuel line cracked, pinched,
or clogged
Float is sitting to low.
Air leak
Float level is set to high
Air passage to carburetor is
clogged
Emulsion circuit (choke) is
set improperly
Fill tank
Clean or replace line
Clean or replace cap or
carburetor
Remove spark plug and
ground it, with the key in the
off position, spin engine
(using the kick starter) to air
out the engine
Clean or replace
Set idle to proper RPM
Perform leak down test to
find out why, seals, gasket etc
See chapter 3 for details
Adjust
Clean or replace
Clean or replace
Clean or replace
Replace filter
Clean or replace
Clean, replace or reroute
Adjust float
Find air leak and repair
Adjust float
Clean passageway
This is set at the factory,
replace the choke.
Carburetor Removal
1.
Disconnect ground wire from battery.
2.
Remove the storage compartment.
Fuel Line out
3.
Disconnect the fuel line from fuel shut off
valve.
*Note: Fuel supply has an auto on/off,
however; lightly pinch the fuel lines to
ensure that fuel will not leak.
Vacuum Line
4.
Drain carburetor by loosening the screw on
the bottom of the bowl.
5.
Disconnect wires for the automatic choke.
6.
Disconnect the vacuum lines.
7.
Loosen the two clamps holding the carburetor to
the engine and to the air filter tube; remove
carburetor from the engine.
8.
Disconnect the throttle cable.
9.
Remove carburetor.
Carburetor Disassembly
While disassembling the carburetor, pay attention to any foreign material that you may
find inside the carburetor; this can help in the diagnosis of the unit.
1. Clean outside of carburetor of dirt and other debris.
2. Remove float bowl; watch out for the bowl gasket.
3. Remove the float pin, float, inlet needle, and inlet seat.
4. Remove the three jets from the float chamber of the
carburetor body.
5. Remove the slide; use caution when removing the slide so as
not to scratch it or rip the diaphragm.
6. Remove the needle jet from the slide.
7. Remove the electric choke and the choke circuit plate.
Use caution with the rubber gasket.
8. Remove the power valve watch for the spring and
diaphragm.
9. Before removing the pilot air screw, turn the screw in,
counting the number of turns. Remove the pilot air and
the idle adjustment screws from the side of the carburetor.
Carburetor Cleaning and Inspection
While cleaning the carburetor use the appropriate safety gear, eye protection, gloves and
so on, also use caution as to the type of tools you use for cleaning; never use drill bits to
clean jets, never remove a ball plug, by doing so you will ruin the carburetor. Only use
approved cleaning solvents or sprays, and use soft tag wires to chase the jets and other
passageways.
Before rebuilding a carburetor go through all of the circuits and components to check for
damage, wear, or leakage. Check the needle jets for any signs of breakage or a ring grove
at or near the tip.
If necessary soak the carburetor in a carburetor cleaning solvent, make sure to follow the
solvent company’s recommendations as damage may happen to the carburetor.
After soaking use a soft tag wire to chase all the passage ways in the carburetor; then use
a spray cleaner to spray through all of the jets and passageways.
Carburetor Reassembly
1. Start by installing of the jets into the float area of the
carburetor. Verify that the jets are being installed in the
correct position.
2. Place the inlet-needle onto the float then install float. Make sure to push the
fulcrum pin in all of the way.
3. Adjust the float level; the float should sit just below level.
Metal Tab
4. Install bowl gasket and bowl.
5. Install electric choke.
2
1
3
4
6. Install the power valve. Be sure to verify that the diaphragm is properly seated
and
2
1
3
4
7. Install throttle slide, spring, and cover. Make sure that the slide moves up and
down freely.
2
1
3
4
8. Install pilot air screw; turn it in until seated,
then back out 1-1/2 times.
9. Install the cap. make sure to diaphragm is
properly seated
Fuel Tank, Float Sensor, Line, Shut-Off Valve and Filter
Fuel Tank and Fuel Level Sensor Removal
Remember fuel is flammable use caution!
Drain fuel tank before servicing the tank.
To gain access to the fuel tank you must first remove the body panels on the back of the
Eagle and Z-Bike. See the pictures below for the sequence of removal.
*Note to remove the fuel level sensor, the same steps must be followed.
1. Remove the body panels to get to the fuel tank. See chapter 7 for more details.
2. Disconnect the fuel line and the fuel level sending
unit
3. Remove the front two bolts first then the rear two.
Note that the tank will need to be supported.
4. Slide the tank out the rear of the bike.
Float Level Sending Unit
1. To remove the float sending unit, turn the collar
counter clockwise.
2. Using care, lift out the float assembly. The float
assembly must be turned as you are lifting it out in
order for it to come out of the tank.
*Note – for testing of the float, refer to the electrical section
of the book.
Fuel Line, Filter and Fuel Shut-off Valve
Fuel Line-When replacing the fuel line, make sure to use a quality line and route the line
to the proper connecters.
Fuel filter- Make sure to install the filter so that the flow is in the correct direction. The
fuel filter is located on the left side near the fuel tank. To access it look behind the grey
body molding and it should be visible. Removing the body panel may be done for easier
access.
Fuel Shut Off Valve – The shut-off valve is vacuum operated; it gets the vacuum from
the intake manifold. Be sure to check the lines if the shut-off valve is not operating
properly.
To test the shut-off valve, apply a negative pressure (vacuum) to the valve and fuel
should flow freely. If not, replace the valve.
Chapter 3
Electrical
When testing continuity of a circuit, always make sure that the circuit has been
isolated from any form of electricity. POSSIBLE IRREPARABLE DAMAGE
TO YOUR METER OR YOURSELF MAY OCCUR if you do not follow this
advice.
Do not unplug electrical components from the wire harness while the unit is running.
This could cause a spark or a voltage spike and damage other components such as the
bridge rectifier, ignition module, light bulbs…etc. Turn the main switch to OFF before
beginning any repair.
When checking the Voltage, Ohms, or Amps, use the proper electrical meter, preferably a
multi-meter. Make sure to be familiar with proper use of your meter; performing an amp
draw test while the meter leads are hooked up wrong can result in damage to your meter
and the electrical system.
Specifications
IGNITION
Spark Plug Type
NGK C7HSA
Spark Plug Gap
0.024-0.028 in.
Spark Plug Cap
4.5k-5k ohms
Ignition Coil Resistance
Primary
Secondary
12.5 – 13.0 ohm spade connector to ground
2.5k – 3k ohms high tension - plug cap removed - to
ground
CHARGING SYSTEM
Trigger Coil
Peak voltage
Resistance
2.4-3.6V (white/red to black)
93.6-140.4 ohms (white/red to black)
Source Coil
Cranking voltage
Ignition Coil
50 – 65 acv
Resistance
100 - 150 ohms
Resistance
Primary .1 – 13.0 ohms(orange to black)
Secondary 4K-7.5K Ohms (cap removed)
Spark Plug Cap
AC Output
Resistance
10K ohm
Peak voltage/Resistance
Peak voltage
6.2-9.2V yellow/red to black
0.5-0.7 ohm yellow/red to black
Resistance
7.4-11 .2V white to black
0.5-0.7 ohm white to black
Choke Circuit
Peak voltage
5.9-8.9V yellow/red to black
Trouble Shooting
No or little Electrical
output
Starter will not turn
Starter turns, unit still will
not start.
Battery is discharged
Charge or replace battery
Loose or broken connection
Fuse is blown
Regulator rectifier bad
Stator is bad
Battery is dead
Tether has been pulled out
Brake lever is not pulled in
Brake lever is pulled
Tighten or repair wire
Replace fuse
Replace regulator rectifier
Replace stator
Charge battery
Replace tether
Pull lever
Brake safety switch needs
to be checked/replaced
Check switch for
continuity replace if bad
Check the push button
starter switch for current.
Replace
Check and repair or replace
Check and repair or replace
Ignition switch is on still
will not start
Ignition switch tested good
still will not start
Fuse is bad
Starter is bad
Starter relay
Choke
Testing Electrical Components
All of the electrical tests should be made using a good quality multi-meter. Please note
that many factors can change the readings of a meter; temperature, the condition of the
meter leads, the condition of the batteries in the meter are just a few items that can
change the readings. When troubleshooting a specific component, always verify that the
fuse is good, that the bulb is good, that the connections are clean and tight, that the
battery is fully charged, and that all appropriate switches are activated.
Trigger Coil
Disconnect the connectors on the right side of the engine.
Resistance
1. Set the meter to the OHMS position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the black with red wire; then connect the black tester lead
to ground
3. The meter should read 93.6-140.4 ohms.
Source Coil
Disconnect the triple-plug connector on the left side of the engine.
Voltage
1. Set the meter selector to .the A.C. Voltage position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the black/white wire; then connect the black tester lead to
ground.
3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter. The meter should read 50-65 volts A.C.
Resistance
1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the black/ yellow wire; then connect the black tester lead
to the black wire.
3. The meter should read 442.6-668.4 ohms.
C.D.I. and Ignition Coil
Testing the CDI is a process of elimination. Test the components around the CDI and if
they are good, replace the CDI.
Disconnect the wires at the ignition coil.
Voltage
1. Set the meter selector to the D.C. Voltage position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the black/yellow wire; then connect the black tester lead
to ground.
3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter. The meter should read 6.2-9.2 volts.
Ignition Coil
The ignition coil is attached to the frame under the foot rest. To access the coil you will
have to remove the upper floor panel.
Primary Winding Resistance
1. Disconnect the black/yellow wire from the coil.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange wire (with the wire removed); then connect
the black tester lead to ground.
3. The meter should read .5-13 ohms.
• NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified, replace ignition coil.
Secondary Winding Resistance
1. Connect the red tester lead to the high tension lead (plug cap removed); then connect
the black tester lead to ground.
*Note- if you do not remove the spark plug cap, your readings will be off.
2. The meter should read 2500 - 3000 ohms (2.5k – 3k ohms).
*NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified, replace ignition coil.
Spark Plug Cap Resistance
1.
With the cap removed from the spark plug wire, connect the red tester lead to one
end of the cap; then connect the black tester lead to the other end of the cap.
2.
The meter should read 4500 - 5000 ohms (4.5k – 5k ohms).
* NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified, replace the spark plug cap.
Magneto Assembly
Removing the Magneto Assembly
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Remove the flywheel from the engine. Always use the proper puller for the job. See the
engine section for more details.
CAUTION: do not use a hammer to remove the flywheel; the crankshaft and other
internal components will be damaged!
3. Remove the stator and timing sensor from the stator plate.
Installing the Magneto Assembly
1. Install the timing sensor and stator onto the stator plate. Apply Loctite to the Phillipshead cap screws. Tighten securely.
2. Install the flywheel. Torque the flywheel nut to 20 foot pounds
Choke Circuit
The electric choke works by using heat and a thermo-coupler. As the thermo-coupler
heats up the element inside it expands pushing out the plunger to seat the needle against
the seat in the choke passageway.
*Note- as long as the engine is running, current is going to the choke heating up
the element causing the needle to seat.
1. Disconnect the black double-plug connector on the left side on the engine.
2. Remove the two screws that hold the choke in place and remove the choke.
3. Using a set of small jumper wires, connect a 12v battery to the leads of the choke
assembly. After 5-10 minutes, the plunger should be pushed out. Let the choke cool and
the plunger should retract.
Choke
On
Choke
Off
Voltage
1. Set the meter selector to the D.C. Voltage position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the yellow/red wire; then connect the black tester lead to
the ground.
3. Crank the engine over using the electric starter. The meter should read 5.9-8.9 volts.
Resistance
1. Set the meter selector to the ohms position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the yellow/red wire; then connect the black tester lead to
the ground.
3. The meter should read 18-25 ohms.
Battery
*Safety Note
Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid, which can cause severe burns. Avoid contact
with skin, eyes, or clothing. If you come into contact with sulfuric acid, flush the area
with water and if needed seek medical attention.
Proper maintenance of a battery will help ensure the battery will last its rated lifetime.
Keeping the battery fully charged, especially during extended periods of non use will
help the battery last longer. Clean and tight terminals will also help its longevity.
Before installing a new battery, fill it with electrolyte and let stand for 20 minutes before
installing the caps, and then charge the battery following the battery manufactures
instructions. Do not use quick charge unless it is urgent.
The battery needs to be taken out of the vehicle while charging.
CHARGING
The battery manufacturers charging instructions take precedence and need to be followed
before following through with this procedure.
1. Remove the battery from the ATV.
Remove the negative cable first; then remove the positive cable.
Do not charge the battery while it is in the ATV and the cables connected
2. Trickle-charge the battery at 1-.4 amps for 4-6 hours.
3. Place the battery into position in the ATV and secure.
4. Connect cables to the proper terminals: positive cable to the positive terminal (+) and
negative cable to the negative terminal (-). Connect the negative cable last.
Testing Voltage
2. Connect the red tester lead to the positive battery
3. The meter must show 12.8 volts or more.
4. Reconnect the positive and negative terminals.
Brake Light Switch
The switch connector is the two individual single connectors located under the left-front
fender.
•NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the ON position.
Voltage
Wiring Harness Connector
1. Set the meter selector to the D.C. Voltage position; then turn the ignition switch to the
ON position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the green/yellow wire; then connect the black tester lead
to ground.
3. The meter should show battery voltage. If battery voltage is not present, troubleshoot
the battery, fuse, switch, or the main wiring harness. If the meter shows battery voltage,
the main wiring harness is good; test the switch and other components of the switch, the
connector, and the switch wiring harness for resistance.
Resistance, Brake Light Switch Connector
*NOTE: The brake switch must be disconnected from the wire harness to prevent damage
to your meter and to get the proper reading.
Repeat this step for both brake levers.
1. Set the meter selector to the OHMS position.
2. Connect the test leads to the two wires coming out of the brake switch (polarity is not
important).
3. When the lever is compressed, the meter should read less than 1 ohm.
*NOTE: If the meter shows more than 1 ohm of resistance, troubleshoot or replace the
switch/component, the connector, or the switch.
Handlebar Control Switches
The connector is the red one in front of the steering post. The connector is accessible in
headlight cover.
*NOTE: These tests should be made on the top side of the connector.
Starter Button Resistance
1. Set the meter selector to the Diode position
* Note- if your meter does not have a diode tester you can use the standard ohm setting
but you must pay attention to which end you have the positive tester lead hooked to. If
you do not get the desired reading change the leads around.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange/white wire; then connect the black tester lead
to the yellow/green wire.
3. With the starter button depressed, the meter should read 0.5-0.7 ohm.
4. With the starter button released, the meter must show an open circuit.
5. Connect the red tester lead to the yellow/green wire; then connect the black tester lead
to the orange/white wire
6. With the starter button depressed, the meter must show an open circuit.
*NOTE: If the meter does not show as specified, replace the switch/component,
connector, or switch harness.
Starter Motor
Removing and Disassembly
*Note – this section is provided for testing only; the starter is only available as an
assembly.
1. Disconnect the battery.
Always disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery first; then
disconnect the positive cable.
2. Remove the starter motor from the engine.
3. Remove the nut securing the positive cable to the starter; then remove the cable from
the starter. Account for the o-ring that goes on the end of the starter.
4. Remove the two cap screws securing the main housing to the end housing; then
remove the main housing. Account for two washers that go onto the bolts and the o-ring
that goes between the main housing and the end cap.
5. Remove the two brushes and armature from the end housing.
Inspection
1. Check the armature windings for damage.
2. Check the brushes for wear.
*Note if the starter needs to be serviced, unless it is minor like the brushes, replace the
starter as an assembly
Assembling and Installing
1.
Install the armature and brushes into the end housing.
2.
Install the o-ring and main housing over the end housing and secure with
two cap screws coated with red Loctite #271. Tighten the cap screws securely.
3.
Install the starter motor
Voltage Regulator Rectifier
The regulator is located behind the front cowling. Its function is to change AC current to
DC current then reduces the voltage from 28 volts AC (or higher) to 12.8 to 13.5 volts
DC.
1.
Set the meter selector to the AC Volt position.
2.
Test between the yellow and white wires.
3.
With the engine running at a constant 5000 RPM, the meter should read at
least (minimum) 26-28 volts AC.
4.
If the voltage is to low, replace the stator.
5.
Set the volt meter to DC volts. At the voltage regulator, test from the red
wire to ground. The reading should be between 13-14.5 volts DC.
6.
If the reading is too high or to low replace the voltage regulator.
Ignition Timing
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted; however, items like the flywheel key, flywheel
magnets, and stator can affect the timing of the engine.
Horn
To access the horn, the front cowling must be removed. Battery voltage should be present
at the horn (green w/red wire) while the key is turned on. Test the green w/red wire to
ground and you should read battery voltage. The green wire goes to the horn switch,
through the switch when depressed to ground.
Turn Signals
To test the turn signal circuit, remove the headlight cowling to gain access to the
components. Power (battery voltage) is supplied to the signals through the grey wire that
goes to the flasher relay. It then comes out the flasher relay to the turn signal switch. At
this point the power is split to the two sides. When the switch is activated power goes to
the designated signal until the switch is turned off.
The flasher relay is located inside the headlight housing. Remove the four screws that are
around the speedometer cover. When the headlight cowling is removed, the flasher relay
will be located atop the speedometer housing.
The four way flasher works the same as the individual turn signals except that it powers
both turn signals instead of one.
Head and Tail Light
The wiring for the head and tail lights is located inside the handlebar and headlight
cowling. Find the connector with the blue wire coming out of it. This will lead up to the
head light switch (high/low beam).
The yellow wire is the power supply going into the switch.
Fuel Level Sending Unit
To access the fuel level sensor you must remove the storage compartment under the seat
and remove the sending from the fuel tank. Test the continuity between the three wires
coming out of the sensor. As you move the float the continuity should change, see chart
below for values.
Green
Yellow w/wht
Blue w/wht
Float in the up
position
Float in the down
Position
Green & Yellow
w/wht
Green & Yellow
w/wht
30-60 ohms
600-1500 ohms
Green & Blue
w/wht
Green & Blue
w/wht
600-1500 ohms
30-60 ohms
Ignition Switch
To access the ignition switch remove the front cowling. Disconnect the white connector
and do an ohms test according to the following chart.
Color Green
Black
W/wht
Black Red
12vdc
in
Position
Off
On
z
z
z
z
Alarm System
The alarm system is a self contained system and very little testing can be performed.
If the alarm will not arm, check the battery in the remote and the fuse on the alarm box.
To disable the alarm system, disconnect the fuse on the alarm box. Note that this will also
disable the remote start as well.
Headlight and Dash
Indicator Light
BL
High/Low Beam
Spark Plug
Ignition Coil
CDI
BK/w
F
Fuel Gage
Stator
R/w
BK
Regulator
Horn Switch
Right/ Left
Front/Rear
Dash Indictor
Turn Signals
OR
OR
Turn Signal Switch
W
Y
The alarm/remote start system is not included
in this schematic. It is an enclosed system.
G/y
BR
Brake
Switch
Trigger
Coil
BK/w
Tail/Brake light
BK/r
Float
BL/w Y/w
E
LB
LB
GR
R
GR
Fuse
Battery
R
R
Dash Lights
R
BK
Flasher
Relay
Starter
Relay
Hazard
Flasher
Switch
R
Y/r
G
BK
Key Switch
BK = BLACK
BL = BLUE
BR = BROWN
G = GREEN
GR= GREY
LB = LIGHT BLUE
O= ORANGE
R=RED
W = WHITE
Y = YELLOW
BK/y = BLACK w/yell
G/y = GREEN w/yell
G/r = GREEN w/red
W/bl = WHITE w/blue
W/y = WHITE w/yell
Y/r = YELLOW w/red
LEGEND
Starter
Chapter 4
Engine
This chapter will explain the removal and installation of the engine as well as trouble
shooting of the engine.
*Note- Be sure to properly support the bike to prevent it from tipping over.
A quality 3”-6” steering wheel puller is required to remove the crankshaft. DO NOT try
to use a hammer to separate the case halves as this will only cause damage.
Other special tools that will be required to perform troubleshooting diagnostics will be a
pressure tester and a vacuum tester.
Engine Trouble Shooting Chart
Symptom
Crankcase Noise
Cylinder Noise
Possible Causes
Corrective Action Needed
• Crankshaft bearings
• Connecting rod needle
bearing failure
• Foreign objected
• Replace bearings
• Replace crankshaft
• Broken piston ring
• Worn cylinder
• Carbon build-up
Low Compression
• Worn cylinder and rings
• Reed valves not sealing
• Disassemble engine
remove object, check for
possible damage
• Replace ring and check
cylinder for damage
• Replace cylinder and
piston assembly
• Remove cylinder head and
de-carbonize
• Replace cylinder and rings
• Remove reed valve
assembly clean mating
surface reseal and torque
• Seals leaking
• Head gasket or intake
gasket leaking
• Replace seals
• Replace gaskets
High Compression
• Excessive carbon build-up
on the piston and head
• Decarbonize engine
Engine over heating
• Cooling fins blocked
• Ignition timing off
• Clean Fins
• Check flywheel key and
air gap on the ignition coil
• Decarbonize engine
• Excessive carbon build up
in the cylinder
Engine Removal
The engine is an integrated part of the suspension of the bike; it is the rear swing arm.
Proper support of the frame will be necessary to remove the engine.
1. Disconnect and remove battery; also
disconnect all electrical connections.
*Note the path of the wires and where they
connect. Chapter 3
2. Drain Engine oil
3. Remove fuel lines from the carburetor and disconnect the air filter boot.
Gasoline is flammable KEEP AWAY FROM SPARKS!
4. Remove the bolts that hold on the muffler.
5. Removal of the rear wheel is not required to remove the engine; however, it may
be easier to remove it at this point. Remove the lock that holds the tire assembly
in place.
6. Remove the engine mounting bolts. There is one that goes across the top of the
engine and two on the rear of the engine (rear shocks). Some models may only
have one rear shock.
*Note- Make sure to properly support the engine to prevent it from falling
7. Remove engine from the frame.
Engine Disassembly
1. Remove the rubber and hard plastic cooling shroud from around the engine.
2. Remove the cooling fan and flywheel
using the proper puller.
Tip: to remove the flywheel nut, put
some scrap recoil rope into the cylinder
through the spark plug hole; this will act
as a piston stop.
Do not hit the crankshaft with a hammer
to remove the flywheel, crankshaft and
bearing damage will
occur.
3. Remove the stator assembly. Note: DO
NOT remove the trigger coil from the
stator it is timed at the factory!
4. Remove the starter assembly.
5. Remove the right side crankcase cover. This will expose the starter clutch and oil
pump.
6. Remove the large starter gear. Make sure that the bearing comes out with the
starter gear.
7. Remove the starter clutch (sprag gear)
8. Remove the small starter gear.
9. Remove the nut that holds the pump sprocket in place. Slide the sprocket and
chain off then remove the pump.
10. Remove clutch cover.
Pay attention to the length of the cap screws, they vary in lengths and they need
to go back into correct hole.
11. Remove belt and clutch assembly, see chapter 5 for details.
12. Remove the valve cover.
13. Loosen the jam nut on the valve adjusting screw
and back off the adjusting screw to relieve
tension then remove the nuts that hold the
rocker arm assembly in place.
14. With the rocker arms out of the way, tilt the cam
shaft enough so that the chain will can be
removed. Then lift off the cylinder head
assembly.
15. Remove the cylinder assembly.
Make sure to protect the piston
from hitting anything after the
cylinder is removed.
16. Remove piston from connecting
rod by removing the piston pin
retainer clips.
17. Separate the crankcase
DO NOT use a hammer to separate the crankcase
as this will cause damage to the crankshaft and
bearings!
18. Remove crankshaft from crankcase housing; Again DO NOT use a hammer.
*Note – the timing chain must be removed from the sprocket before the crankshaft can be
removed. Once crankshaft is out of the case half, remove the timing chain.
Engine Inspection
1. Clean all components in solvent, making sure that all gasket material and sealer is
removed.
2. Check cylinder head for warping, lay head on a flat surface and using a feeler
gauge measure all the around the head, if the head is warped more than 0.0005”
lap the head or replace.
3. There are four areas to inspect on the cylinder,
1. Cylinder mating surface for the head should be flat, check for warping using
the same procedure as the cylinder head.
2. Cylinder to block mating surface should be flat as well.
3. Cooling fins should be clear of debris and
no broken fins.
4. Cylinder bore, check for
cross hatch, out of roundness,
and taper. If it is more than
0.001” out of round or
tapered, replace cylinder.
Also measure the diameter of
the cylinder in three places,
top, middle, and bottom and
180 degrees apart to check for out
of round as well as barreling. If it is out of specs, replace cylinder.
4. Inspect both crank case halves and side covers; look for cracks especially around
the bearing areas.
5. Inspect the run-out on the
crankshaft. Set the crankshaft on
two “V” blocks and using a dial
indicator check the run-out, it
should not exceed 0.0005”, if it
does replace crank shaft.
6. Inspect the connecting rod.
a. Look for any burning, bending, or
cracking.
DO NOT try to separate the crankshaft. It is only
available as an assembly
7. Check the side clearance of the connecting rod to
the crankshaft. It should be less than 0.0039”
8. Oiling components need to be checked for wear, leakage, and blockage
1. Inspect the oiler drive gear; make sure that there is no wear.
2. Inspect the pump body play in the pump shaft; check for leakage
around the seals.
3. Blow through the oil passageways to check for blockage.
Valve Train
Valves Train
1. Using a “C” style valve compression tool,
remove the valves.
2. Check valves for any burning, pitting,
carbon build up, and so on.
3. If needed reface the valves and seats.
Make sure to cut the valve and seat at 45
and 46 degrees respectfully.
Make sure that the seating point is about
midway on the valve face.
4. Check the valve stem for wear and straightness
5. Check the valve guide for wear, the clearance between the guide and stem. The
max wear limit is .0035”
6. Inspect the rocker arms and pivots for any signs of wear.
7. Inspect the cam shaft for any signs of wear.
8. Inspect the cam gear and chain for broken teeth and damaged or stretched chain.
9. Inspect the valve springs that they are of the same height.
Engine Reassembly
1. Install seals- Install retaining ring on the drive side crankcase, then using a seal
driver or socket install the seal until it seats against the retaining ring. On the
ignition side crankcase, install seal using a driver or socket.
2. Lubricate all the bearings on the crankshaft and seal surfaces using four cycle oil.
3. Install the piston onto the connecting rod. Make sure that the piston is oriented
correctly onto the crankshaft. Use oil on the piston pin.
When installing the piston pin retainers, make sure that the opening is at the 6
o’clock position.
4. Install the crankshaft into the housing. While sliding the crankshaft into
crankcase, position the timing chain so that the crankshaft will slide through the
timing chain.
Do not use sealer on the gasket as this will change the end play of the
crankshaft.
5. Install ignition side crankcase onto the crankshaft.. Apply a small amount of locktight to the bolt threads and torque to 84 inch pounds. Use a seal protector as a
caution so as not to damage the seals.
DO NOT use the crankcase bolts or a hammer to assemble the two halves
together.
6. Install the seal retainer on the ignition side.
7. Install the timing chain guides. One is bolted into place and the other sits in a slot
in the crankcase.
8. Stagger the piston ring ends so that
there is at least 30 degrees between
each ring. With the cylinder well
lubricated, start the cylinder onto the
studs. Feed the timing chain up
through the cylinder and use a
screwdriver to keep the chain from
falling into the crankcase. Slide the
cylinder over the piston assembly
using caution so not to break a ring.
9. Install the head gasket and position the cylinder head
onto the studs.
10. Position the piston so it is at top dead center; position
the cam shaft into its cradle aligning the timing marks
with the cylinder head. Install the chain. Verify the
timing by rotating the crankshaft, when the piston
reaches top dead center on the exhaust stroke, the
exhaust valve should be almost closed and the intake
valve will be just starting to open (valve overlap).
11. Install the rocker arms and torque the nuts
down to 13-15 foot pounds. Be sure to
tighten the nuts down in two steps using a
crisscross pattern. Be sure to lubricate the
rocker arms before assembly.
12. Adjust the valves to 0.002”-0.003” for
both intake and exhaust.
13. Install the valve cover
14. Install the timing chain tensioner. Before installing the tension, remove the screw
on top and using a small screwdriver, turn out the spring loaded tensioner.
15. Install stator assembly; make sure to coat the
threads of the screws with red lock-tight.
Also when installing the stator, position the
trigger coil at 11 o’clock.
16. Install the flywheel key and then the
flywheel assembly. Torque the flywheel to
23 foot pounds. TIP: by using a piece of
rope down the spark plug hole, this will
allow you to hold crankshaft while the
flywheel nut is torque.
17. Install the cooling fan onto the flywheel, torque cap screws to 84 inch pounds use
lock tight.
18. Install the oil pump assembly into the
crankcase. Make sure the o-rings are in
place and well lubricated before
installing.
19. Slide the oil pump drive chain onto the
crankshaft. Slide the pump sprocket
into the chain and install onto the
pump. Make sure to align the D hole in
the sprocket with the shape on the
shaft.
20. Install the small starter gear onto the
shaft. The larger gear goes to the
crankcase.
21. Slide the sprag gear onto the
crankshaft.
22. Lubricate then install the bearing into
the sprag gear/
23. Install the large starter gear.
24. Install the left side crankcase cover. Be
sure to use a seal protector when
installing the seal. Torque the side
cove bolts to 84 inch pounds
When installing the bolts, pay
attention to the length of the bolts.
When the bolt is placed in the hole, the height of each bolt should be the same see
below picture.
25. Install the starter. Make sure to install the ground wire under the top screw.
26. Install the gasket then the primary and secondary clutches and the kick starter
gears. See Chapter 5 for details. Install the drive belt. See section 5 for more
details.
Chapter 5
Drive System and Kick Start
This chapter will consist of the adjustment, removal, disassembly, and reassembly of the
following components:
• Belt Replacement
• Clutch Components
• Rear Axle Assembly
• Kick Starter
• Gear Box
• Brakes
Trouble Shooting
Symptom
Will not stop
Unit will not move
Possible Cause
Cable(s) broken or out of
adjustment
Brakes worn out or
jammed
Transmission gears broken
Clutch driver or driven
unit not working
Belt broken or jammed
-Brakes locked
Axle or differential broken
• Lever is locked in place
or bent
• Jammed cable
• Brake shoes or pads are
jammed
Solution
Replace or adjust cable(s)
Adjust or replace brakes
Remove and replace
necessary parts
Remove and repair or
replace necessary parts
Remove belt and replace if
necessary
Remove and replace
• Replace lever
• Replace cable
• Replace pads or shoes
Belt Removal, Inspection, and Replacement
To remove the belt you must first remove the belt cover. With the cover off, remove the
nut that holds the driver clutch together and slide the belt off.
Inspect the belt for any signs of wear, cracking, or stretching. If any of these signs appear
the belt will have to be replaced. While the belt is off inspect the pulleys for any signs of
wear as well.
To install the belt, reverse the disassembly instructions.
Clutch System
Driver and Driven Clutch
Removal, Inspection, and Reassembly
The removal of the clutch driver will require the removal of the left belt cover.
Disconnect the spark plug wire for safety
1. To remove the belt you must first remove the
belt cover. With the cover off, remove the nut
that holds the driver clutch together and slide
the belt off.
2. Using a strap wrench or a piece of rope down
the cylinder, remove the nut holding the clutch
in place.
3. Remove the fixed sheave. Inspect
for wear.
4. Remove the spacer
5. Lift off the movable sheave and rollers as an assembly. Once off separate the
roller plate from the sheave; inspect rollers for wear as well as the areas that the
rollers ride in. Also check the face of the sheaves that the belt rides on. It needs to
be smooth.
Make sure to account for all six rollers.
Reassembly
Follow the disassembly procedure in the reverse order.
Secondary Clutch
Follow the above steps to gain access to the clutch and pulleys. Remove the belt. Using a
strap wrench, hold the clutch and remove the nut. This will allow the secondary clutch to
be removed.
Kick Starter
To gain access to the kick starter, the belt cover must first be removed. Once off, remove
the primary clutch, belt, and the gasket.
1. Before removing the shafts, not the alignment marks.
2. Using caution, remove the screw that holds
the kick shaft return spring into place. This
spring is under a lot of pressure, be sure to
use caution.
3. Remove the secondary shaft by simply it
straight out.
Inspect the shafts, teeth, and springs.
Assemble in reverse
order. Make sure to align
springs in their slots.
Gear Box
To gain access to the gear box and the components inside, the driven clutch must be
removed as well as the rear wheel if the out put shaft is to be repaired or replaced. You
must also drain the gear box of oil.
Disassembly
1.
Remove the transmission cover.
2.
Remove the gears and shafts.
a.
Remove the gear on the output shaft
b.
Remove the counter gear and shaft
c.
Remove the input shaft
d.
3.
Remove the output shaft.
Remove the bearings and seals.
Inspection
Inspect the bearings, gears, and shafts for any wear, broken or missing parts. Make sure
to include the transmission cover and the block during the inspection.
Reassembly
Assemble in reverse order. Be sure to install new seals and lube the bearings and gears
before installing. Refill with 80w90 gear oil, approximately 5 ounces..
Chapter 6
Brakes
The rear braking system on some models are operated with cables and springs whereas
others are hydraulic. The rear hydraulic units will use the same process and procedure as
the front brakes. The front brake system is hydraulic. If any of these items should fail,
replace parts with new OEM parts. To try and fix a damaged part in this system could
cause severe injury to the rider and or bystanders.
Make sure that the bike is securely supported while it is on stands.
When ever any brake work is performed, always go through the
adjustment/bleeding procedure.
Front/Rear Hydraulic Brakes
Removal of Caliper
1. Remove the bolts that secure the caliper
assembly onto the front shock.
2. Lift the caliper from the rotor.
Inspection
Inspect the pads and the rotor for any signs of wear,
cracking, or grooves. Replace the parts if needed. If the
lining on the pads is less than 0.080” thick, replace the
pads.
Installation
Before installing the pads on the caliper remove
the cap on the reservoir and slowly squeeze the
piston all the back. Install the pads into the caliper
and carefully slid it over the brake rotor. Move the
caliper into place and bolt it down. Bleed the
brakes.
When installing the pads, the tabs on the
end of the pads need to fit into the metal
retainers in the caliper.
Removal of Brake Line and Reservoir
*Use caution when removing the lines so brake fluid does not spill on parts.
To gain access to the line and reservoir the front cover and rear handle bar covers must be
removed.
1.Remove the banjo bolt that holds the line to
the caliper. *make sure no dirt enters the line
or parts.
2.Wrap the ends of the brake hose with a rag to prevent dripping and feed the
line up through the holders.
3.Remove the two cap screws that secure the reservoir to the handle bar.
Installation of Brake Line and Reservoir
Install in reverse order of disassembly. Bleed the
brakes.
Bleeding of the Brake System
Remove the reservoir cap and make sure that it is
full of DOT 3 brake fluid. Open the bleeder screw
on the caliper just enough so that it is only snug.
Slide a hose over the fitting and attach a syringe
to the line. Open the bleeder screw and draw out
the fluid with the syringe. Also, work the brake
lever several times to get any air that may be trapped worked out of the system. Be
careful to not let the reservoir run out of brake fluid. This step may need to be preformed
several times; when no air bubbles can be seen in the syringe the process is complete.
Tighten the bleeder screw before removing the hose and syringe.
Chapter 7
Controls
Speedometer and Cable
To access the speedometer and/or the cable, the headlight cowling will need to be
removed.
To replace the speedometer cable remove the rear handle bar cover and then simply
unscrew it form the speedometer housing and from the gear housing at the front tire.
When installing the cable make sure to route it properly or the cable will pinch and
cause damage.
Speedometer Gear
To replace the speedometer gear, remove
the front tire axle and slide out the gear.
When reinstalling, be sure to align the
slots in the gear with the tabs on the
wheel.
Speedometer
To replace the speedometer you must first gain access to it.
4. Remove the rear handle bar cover.
5. Disconnect al the wires going to the components in the front handle bar
cover
6. Remove the speedometer from the housing. Use caution regarding gaskets
and the lens.
Adjusting the Throttle Cable
There are two places to adjust the throttle cable, near the throttle grip and on the
carburetor. When adjusting the cable only remove the slack from the cable, do not put
it under tension as this starts to open the slide on
the carburetor.
To adjust the throttle cable free-play:
On the carburetor
1. Loosen the jam nut
2. Turn the cable adjustment nut clockwise to
increase free-play in the cable. Turn the
adjustment nut counterclockwise to decrease
free-play in the cable.
3. There should be approximately 3 mm (1/8 in.)
free-play in the cable.
4. Tighten the jam nut to secure the adjustment
On the handlebar
Adjusting the cable on the handle bar is only done when
installing a new cable or there is no more adjustment on
the carburetor.
1. Disconnect throttle cable at the carburetor.
2. Loosen the jam nut on the throttle cable on
the handlebar.
3. Turn the connector in to lengthen the cable
or out to shorten the cable.
4. Reinstall the cable on the carburetor.
Adjusting Engine RPM (Idle)
To properly adjust the idle RPM, a tachometer
is necessary. To adjust idle RPM, use the
following procedure.
Set the brake lever locks. Start the engine and
Warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Turn the idle adjustment screw in or out
until the engine idles at 1700 +\- 100 RPM.
*Caution
Adjust the idle to the correct RPM. Make sure
the engine is at normal operating temperature before adjusting the idle RPM.
Throttle Cable
1. Remove the screw from the throttle grip and slide the grip off the handle bar.
Once the grip is far enough off, remove the cable.
2. Remove the cover from the throttle slide on the carburetor, see chapter 2.
3. Pull cable assembly through the frame. It will be necessary to remove the floor
panel to route and zip tie the cable properly.
*Note- Pay attention as to the routing of the cable so it will not get pinched or kinked.
Reassemble in the reverse order.
Chapter 9
Suspension and Steering
Rear Shock
1. Properly support the bike frame and
motor; once the shock is removed due to
the fact that the rear of the engine will no
longer be supported.
2. Remove the upper and lower bolts that
secure the shock in place.
3. Install in reverse order.
Front Shocks
Make sure to support the bike before removing the front
shocks.
1. Remove the front tire. *Note- the brake and
speedometer cable will have to be removed, please refer
to the appropriate chapter for more information.
2. Remove the front body cowling to gain access to the
front shocks, please refer to the appropriate chapter for
more information.
3. Using a twisting motion, pull out the shock. It may be
necessary to slightly pry open the clamp to slide out the
shock.
**Note- mark the shocks left or right for correct
installation
Inspection
Inspect the shock for any external damage, torn boot, leaking
oil, etc. replace if damage is present.
Internal inspection can be performed, however, it is
recommended to replace the shock as an assembly.
Installation
Install in reverse order.
**Note- If oil needs to be replaced, the shock holds 50cc’s of
number 3 shock oil.
Steering
To replace the steering stem the upper and lower body panels will have to be removed
as well as the front wheel and shocks, refer to previous section for details.
Removal of handle bar
1. Remove or disconnect all components off of the handle bar. Refer to the
respective components section for removal
procedure.
2. Remove the bolt from the handle bar clamp.
3. Lift up on the handle bar. A slight twisting motion may be needed.
Install in reverse order.
Removal of Steering Stem
1. Remove handle bar
2. Remove the spanner nuts.
3. Remove the Washer
4. Remove the upper bearing race.
5. Remove the bearing. Pay attention to the direction of
the bearings.
6. Slide out the steering stem.
Inspection
Inspect the ball bearings and cages for any wear. Check the
seats for wear or pitting. Check the stem for any wear.
Installation
Install in reverse order making sure to grease bearings and
stem, make sure that the bearing assemblies are properly seated
before tightening the spanner nuts, damage to bearings will
result.
* Note – when tightening the lower spanner nut, only tighten
hand tight until all of the play is gone. Then tighten the upper
nut against the lower nut to prevent it from coming undone.