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À Aristóteles(1996).Acercadelcielo;Meteorológicos.Gredos,Madrid,430pp. Airy,G.(1845).Tidesandwaves,EncyclMetrop,Art1992,241Ͳ396. Battjes, J. (1974b). Surf similitary. Proc.14 Int. Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, Copenague.466Ͳ480pp. Berkhoff, J. (1972). Computation of combined refractionͲdifraction. Proc. 13 Int. Conference on CoastalEngineering,Cardiff.1.718Ͳ726pp. Dally,W.,Dean,R.,etal(1985).Waveheightvariationacrossbeachesifarbitraryprofiles.Journal ofGeophysicsResearch,Vol.90. Dean, R. & Dalrymple, R. (2002). Coastal Processes with engineering applications. Cambridge UniversityPress,UK. Dean, R. (2003). Beach Nourishment, theory and practice. Vol. 18 of advanced series on ocean engineering,WorldScientific,Singapore. Gómez, N. (2009). Presión de poro inducida por el oleaje en playas de grano grueso. Tesis de licenciatura,UNAM,México. Hedges, T. (1976). An empirical modification to linear wave theory. Proc. Institute of Civil Engineering,Part2,Vol.61:pp.575Ͳ579. Hudson, R. Y. (1959). 'Laboratory investigation of rubble mound breakwatees'. Journal of the WaterwaysandHarbourDivision,ASCE.Vol.85(WW3).pp.93Ͳ121. Issacson, M. & Qu, S. (1990). Waves in harbor with partially reflecting boundaries. Coastal Engineering,Vol.14:pp.193Ͳ214. JohnsonmR.,Mansard,E.,&Ploeg,J.(1978).Effectsofwavegroupingonbreakwaterstability.Int. ConferenceonCoastalEngineering,ASCE,Hamburgo. Kinsman,B.(1965).Windwaves.PrinticeͲHall,EnglewoodCliffs,NuevaJersey. Losada, I., Silva R., et al (1996b). Interaction of nonͲbreaking directional random waves with submergedbreakwaters”.CoastalEngineering,Vol.28:pp.249Ͳ266. Lozano, C. & Meyer, R. (1976). Leakage and response of waves trapped by round islands. The PhysicsofFluids,Vol.19. Massel,S.(1989).Hydrodynamicsofcoastalzones.ElsevierOceanographySeries,Vol.48. [103] Mendoza,E.G.(2006).Modelounificadodepropagacióndeoleajeehidrodinámicanolineal.Tesis dedoctorado,UNAM,México. Miles,J.(1991).Variationalapproximationsforgravitywavesinwaterofvariabledepth.Journalof FluidMechanics,Vol.232:pp.681Ͳ688. Ruíz, D. (2010). Zonificación de la Península de Yucatán a partir de un análisis sedimentológico. Tesisdelicenciatura,UNAM,México. Silva,R.,Salles,P.,etal(2002b).Linearwavespropagatingoverarapidlyvaryingfiniteporousbed. CoastalEngineering,Vol.44:pp.239Ͳ260. Silva, R. (2005). Análisis y descripción estadística del oleaje. Series del Instituto de Ingeniería, UNAM,México. Silva,R.(2008).ManualdelusuarioydocumentodereferenciadelprogramaMWAPO3.Instituto deIngeniería,UNAM,México. Stokes,G.(1847).Ontheoscillatorywaves.TransactionsCambridgePhil.Soc.,8(441),157Ͳ229. Smith,R.&SprinksT.(1995).Scatteringofsurfacewavesbyaconicalisland.J.FluidMechanics, Vol.72:pp.373Ͳ384. Vidal, C., Losada, M. A., Medina, R., Mansard, E. P. D. y GomezͲPina, G. (1992). An universal analysisforthestabilityofbothlowͲcrestedandsubmergedbreakwaters.Venecia,Italia. [104]