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69565 TABLE OF CONTENTS Knowing Your Sewing Machine Identifying Parts ................................. Connecting Machine .............................. 1-2 3 Threading - Bobbin .............................. Top Thread ........................................ 4 -5 6 Using the Controls Top Tension Control 7 -8 ........................... Adjusting Bobbin Tension ...................... Stitch Length Control ............................ Stitch Width Control ............................. Reverse Stitch Control .......................... Feed Dog Control ................................. Special Stitch Dial ........................... Pressure Regulator Sewing Light Seam Guides ............................... ...................................... ...................................... 9 10 10 11 11 12- 14 15 16 17 Accessories Needles ............................................. Needle, Thread, Fabric Chart 18 .................. 19 Presser Feet ........................................ Buttonhole Guide Feet .......................... 20 21 Zigzag and Straight Stitching Needle Plate ................................................. 22 Starting to Sew ..................................... Garment Construction Stitches Straight Stitching Zigzag Stitching Stretch Stitching Special Finishing ................................ .................................. ............................ 23 24 25 26 - 28 Stitches Satin Stitching, Appliqueing ................... 29 Buttonhole Making ......................... 30 - 32 Button Sewing, Bar Tacking ................... 33 Blind Hemming .................. : ........... 34 - 35 Zipper Application ................................ 36 Special Edge Stitch, Checking Performance Mending, Problems Darning ..... 37 ......... 39 - 40 Caring for the Machine Cleaning Feed Dogs and Shuttle ................ Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate .................... 41 42 Oiling 43 Underside .................................... Oiling Face Cover Plate ........................... Parts List ........................................ 69565 44 45 - 46 Knowing Your Sewing Machi ,--_1. FRONT VIEW @ @ © -@ @ ® ® ® ® ® ® _ @ @ (_' . 11. Thread Guide Box 2. Hinged Extension 12. Take-up 3. Needle Plate 13. Top Thread Tension 4. Zigzag 5. Presser Foot 6. Thread 7. Stitching Plate 14. Threading Lever Guide Special Stitch Dial Stitch Width Control Thread Guide 17. Reverse Stitch 8. Thread Tension 9. Thread Guide 18. 19. Stitch Length Nomenclature Face Cover Plate Regulator Control Path 15. 16. 10. 1 Accessory Control Control Plate BACK VIEW r @ ® @ .@ @ @ @ 7 @ \ .@ @ ® / 26. Bobbin Winder Connector 27. Thread Guide 22. Hand 28. Presser Foot Lever 23. Bobbin Winder Shaft 29. Thread Cutter 24. Bobbin Winder Latch 30. Needle Clamp 25. Thread Spool 31. Feed Dogs 20. Light 21. and Power Switch Wheel Pin Tension Disc Screw 2 CONNECTING MACHINE ® % ® ® ® 1. Lift hinged extension at side of machine bed-plate. 2. the left For more sewing space, tip the bed plate cover up by pushing right edge as shown in Fig. 2. Turn the accessory box toward you as shown in Fig. 2. 3. Fig. 3. shows the machine ready to sew with all the extensions in place for maximum sewing space. 3 4. Push the connector column. plug onto three-prong at the back of machine 5. Plug machine cord into 120 volt wall outlet. power by pushing switch. 6. Pull up spool machine. light pin stored any 110Turn on and power at top of _B WINDING THE BOBBIN ® ® ® ® , , . Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown in Fig. 1. Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin and place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin, fitting the notch on the bobbin over locking stud on the shaft as shown in Fig. 2. Push bobbin winder bobbin until it clicks. latch 4. Release clutch by pulling hand wheel or turning clutch knob as shown in Fig. 4. Start machine, holding onto end of thread. When bobbin is slightly filled, release end of thread. 5. When bobbin is mechanism stops. 6. Push in hand wheel or turning clutch knob to return to stitching position. Remove bobbin. full, winding against 4 THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE ® ,j i_ I . k ,. \ ® ® ® ® ® 1. To remove bobbin case from the shuttle, raise needle to its highest position. 2. Open bed plate cover, accessory box. , 4. . 5 Pull open latch Pull bobbin shuttle. and remove of bobbin case straight case. out of Insert bobbin into bobbin case making sure thread is coming from bobbin as shown. . 7. Pull thread shown. Pull thread through under slot of case as tension 8. Holding latch open, position into shuttle, and release latch. should lock into place when is released. . spring. case Case latch Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper thread. THREADING Model OF TOP THREAD 1050 _ _ (_ d_ ® Model1020, 1030, 1040, 1045 (_/ ® 6 TOP TENSION Model CONTROL 1050 Model1020, 1030, 1040, 1045 Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension. It consists of discs between which the thread passes. The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial on the front of the control. The higher the number, the tighter the tension. There for are many one fabric upon fabric the reasons may stiffness being sewn, not for having be correct of the fabric, as well 7 for reset your another. thickness as the It is best to test the stitching starting to make a garment. to type tension. The required of the fabric, of stitch The you best tension numbers tension depends of layers of are making. on a scrap of the fabric you are using before To adjust for the correct stitch, see next page. ADJUSTING TOP TENSIONS A perfect straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom. (_ Upper thread too tight Decrease Tension (_ Upper thread too loose Increase Tension 8 ADJUSTING BOBBIN Bobbin tension. requires If the tension stitch is satisfactory loosen the tension them as indicated When adjusting a screwdriver. DECREASE TENSIONS adjusting but the on both the top on Page 9. the tension less seam frequently is puckered, and bottom on the bobbin than it may threads. upper be necessary to Be sure to balance with TENSION Counter Clockwise. TENSION Turn 9 thread case, make slight adjustments Turn INCREASE the Clockwise. STITCH LENGTH CONTROL The stitch length control located on the right side of the machine the length of the stitch you select. THE HIGHER THE NUMBER-THE SHORTER THE STITCH. regulates The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the fabric you are sewing. A longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of fabric. The middle range of the control the most commonly used. A basting per inch. is the 10-1 2 stitch per inch range which stitch is made by using the longest possible The marking _ such as in Satin STITCH on this control Stitching. WIDTH is the setting stitch setting is - 6 stitches used for the shortest stitches CONTROL I m ilmll m m This control NUMBER regulates - THE by adjusting this This must control the width WIDER control be on THE of the STITCH. to the Red setting Dot stitch you select. THE You may vary your zigzag you in order HIGHER stitch THE width desire. to do straight stitching. 10 REVERSE STITCH CONTROL It is best to begin is called and back prevents and end seams tacking. Back with tacking a few fastens stitches the taken ends in reverse. of the seams This firmly raveling. When reverse stitching is needed, turn the control clockwise there during sewing. The fabric will immediately start feeding and seam will be fastened. and hold backwards FEED DOG CONTROL The feed dog control is located on the machine behind accessory box. There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself. When the control is pushed down, the feed dogs drop and do not move the fabric. For most up). 11 of your sewing, turn the control to the up position. (Feed dog SPECIAL STITCH DIAL There are certain types of utility stitches you will use often in your home sewing. This control enables you to just dial the stitch you need for the task at hand. THE RED DOT SETTING The Red Dot setting illustrated is the one used for most of your stitchingeither straight or simple zigzag. When the stitch width is set on the Red Dot and the Special Stitch Dial on the Red Dot setting, you may straight stitch. For a simple zigzag stitch, adjust the stitch width control setting, with the dial remaining on the Red Dot setting. to the desired 12 SPECIAL MENDING STITCH BLIND STITCH SETTING You will find that much of your sewing is in the mending category. For this reason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears. Use of the stitch setting shown is given in more detail in the next section under Mending. Blind hems are made by using the stitch setting shown in the illustration above. For more detailed instructions in blind hemming, see next section of the book. SPECIAL ELASTIC EDGE STITCH STRETCH STITCH j The setting illustrated is used for special edge finishing, combining fabrics and so on. Details on the use of this stitch are given in the nextsection. 13 . The setting illustrated is used for special stretch stitch for sewing elastic such as sportswear, girdles and other garments that require stretch. See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitch. OVERCAST STRETCH STITCH SMOCKING Overcast stretch stitching is made by using the stitch setting shown in the illustration above. Detaileg instructions are given the book. STRETCH in the STITCH next section of SETTING STRETCH STITCH You can make smocking stretch stitching by setting the dial to the setting indicated above. See next section of this book for detailed use of the stitches. BUTTONHOLE SETTING I Stretch stitching is easily done by setting the dial to the setting indicated above. Details on the use of this stitch are given of the book. in the next section The three settings shown above are used in making a bar tacked buttonhole. Detailed instructions are given in the next section of the book. 14 OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF SEWING MACHINE In addition to the obvious controls of your machine, there are other regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine. PRESSURE small REGULATOR Model1020, 1030, 1040, 1045 Model 1050 Fig. 2 Fig. 1 Push down pressure the outer on the presser To increase obtained. the ring foot. pressure, of the (See push pressure regulator. This will release the Fig. 1 above). down inner pin until a suitable pressure is The pressure on the presser foot is regulated by turning the dial of this regulator which is situated in face cover plate (See Fig. 2 above). To increase the pressure, turn the dial clockwise, until a suitable pressure is obtained. Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure. When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure. Increase pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics. 15 SEWING LIGHT The light and power switch shown in Fig. 1 provides the electric current for the motor as well as for the light. In order to operate the machine, this switch must be on. To turn on the light, depress the upper side of the switch. If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended, just turn off the switch and the machine cannot be started accidentally. Fig. 1 The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate as shown. To replace the bulb, turn light off, and swing the face cover plate open. Push up on the bulb slightly and turn bulb clockwise. Remove bulb from socket. Push in new bulb and turn counter-clockwise. Fig. 2 16 SEAM Seam GUIDES guides are printed on either side of the needle plate to aid you in guiding your fabric. THE GUIDE LINE EXTENDING ABOVE THE RIGHT SIDE Cornering Guide OF THE "ALL LINE. THE NEEDLE IMPORTANT" PLATE 5/8" IS SEAM The corneripg guides are convenient when turning a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge. See next section of this book for directions. PRESSER FOOT LEVER To aid you in the placement fabrics under the presser foot, can "up" raise position. changing 17 the your foot beyond This presser is also feet. of heavy the lever the normal an aid in NEEDLES Use KENMORE needles. The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should be suitable to the fabric I I II I i j II I (See next page). Fig. 1 Never use a bent needle or one with blunt point. a Fig. 1. shows you the exact length of your needle. Be sure you never use one in your machine that is not this exact length. You will find among your accessories a ..e x_:_:ll[,_:"_with blue shank. This special needle is to be used when sewing certain knits and certain difficult synthetic fabrics. If you experience skipped stitches in any of your sewing, use o x_:l-:l_[,_:.. . PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE Raise needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding the needle with the flat side away from you, slip the needle into the needle bar. When it is in as far as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw with a screwdriver. !'" l_l ''_ J Flat side away from II V you. 18 NEEDLE, THREAD, THREAD FABRIC SIZE NEEDLE SIZE Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Polyester Silk A Synthetic 50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Synthetic Silk A 50 Mercerized 9orll 14 Cotton Mercerized Heavy Duty Polyester Synthetic Silk A Heavy Duty Mercerized Polyester Synthetic Silk A Silk Buttonhole CHART Twist Polyester Synthetic 50 Mercerized Cotton Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Synthetic Jerseys, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffetta, Voile, Organdy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Vinyl, Suitings, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather 14 or 16 Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets, Leather 18 Heavy Weight : Coatings, Upholstery, Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas Cotton 16, 18 or "Q NEEI)LE",= "'0 SET",. ("Q NEEDLE",. I and "Q FOOT",. ) 19 FABRIC Decorative Top-stitching on all Synthetic Knits and Stretch Fabrics: Polyester Double Knits, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex, Cire Tricot FASTENING A SEAM Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric about 1/2 inch from beginning of seam. Turn the reverse stitch control clockwise and stitch in reverse until needle reaches beginning of seam. Release control and complete seam. When you reach the end, turn the control clockwise and sew back over 1/2 inch of completed seam. TURNING -,. _ _ •,,, , {,!-, _ "_<,J Corned n g Guide A SQUARE CORNER To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the cornering guide as shown. Raise the presser foot, turn fabric. New stitching line will align with 5/8" seam guide on side of needle plate. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction. ZIGZAG STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control - Any Number Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag needle plate. This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine. This is the feature that enables you to overcast seams, blind hem, applique, buttonhole, monogram, and make all the pretty embroidery designs by machine. Simply use the settings indicated in the illustration for the simple zigzag. Follow directions given in the following pages for more specific uses. 25 STRETCH STITCHING The stitches shown below are special stitches built are all for use with stretch in to the machine for your and knit fabrics. quick selection. \/X 1. Straight Stretch 2. Rick- Rack Stretch | These A /\/ \/ /\) 3. Smocking Stretch 4. Elastic Stretch 5. Overcast Stretch / \/ | \/\ /\/ \/\ /\/ \/\ /\/ \ db ®® "-4 /\ ® ® STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - _t_J Stitch Width ControlRed Dot Stitch Length Control - 8 Straight Stitch Foot Use straight stitching Use this stretch fabric and other plate. stitch fabrics with that knitted stretch. Sew as you do with regular straight stitch seaming. The seam may be pressed open as with any regular seam, but will stretch if necessary. This is also a good stitch to use on curved seams regardless of the type of fabric. Any seam that will receive a great deal of strain when worn should be sewn with the stretch stitch. Use in children's shorts and slacks as well as adult sports clothes. 26 RICK-RACK STITCHING STRETCH SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - III Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control - 8 Zigzag Presser Foot Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zig zag stitch. This stitch can be used as a decorative top stitch as well. SMOCKING STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Step 1. Make a straight line of gathers across the fabric that you wish to smock. Step 2. Special Stitch Dial - 8_ Stitch Width Control - 3 to 4 Stitch Length Control - 8 Zigzag Presser Foot With a narrow strip of fabric directly under the line of gathering, stitch over the gathers. The design will be a series of small diamonds. When smocking a garment, the stitching should be done before the piece is sewn into the garment. 27 OVERCAST STRETCH STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot - 3 to 4 - 8 This is the same type of stitch used by the garment industry in making sportswear. It is used for seams of 3/8" to 1/4". The seam is formed and finished in one operation. It must be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch. Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished. Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling. ELASTIC STRETCH STITCHING Fig. 1 SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - I_ Stitch Width Control - 4 Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot - 8 This is a good stitch to use in making or repairing lingerie. The stitch is decorative as well as useful. Simply stitch the elastic into place around the waist of the garment, making sure that the elastic is evenly spaced. To do this mark the correct length piece into quarters and match these markings with center front and back of the garment as well as side seams. 28 SPECIAL After the finishing Kenmore done by FINISHING STITCHES ........ basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many touches to be done. To aid your completion of your garment, the has been_designed to do the following tasks that formerly had to be hand. SATIN STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - Any Number 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Satin Stitch Foot Use zigzag stitching Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. stitch used for appliqueing, monogramming, buttonhole plate. This is an attractive making. Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well to remember to loosen the tension of the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch you make, the looser the tension should be. If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, it is well to use a backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a well formed stitch. Puckering of the material will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will not be visible on the right side of the fabric. As with all special stitches, it is best to make a sample design before starting the design on the garment. on your fabric APPLIOUEING SETTINGS Same as with Satin Stitching Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place. Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique completely covering the edge. You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread or self color. 29 BUTTONHOLE MAKING SETTINGS Stitch Width Control - 4 Stitch Length Control Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag stitching - Red Zone plate. 1. Carefully mark the position and length of each buttonhole on your garment. Select the proper size buttonhole guide foot to correspond with the length of buttonhole. \ Fig. 1 2, Mount the guide foot onto the presser foot. Holding on to the top thread, rotate the handwheel toward you one complete turn. Pull the upper thread under and to the back of the buttonhole guide foot. See Figs. 1 & 2. 3. Note in Fig. 3 that each guide foot has a dot on the right ed;_ toward the back of the foot, and on the left edge near the front of the foot. These dots are used as a point of reference for your bartacking steps in buttonholing. (See next page). 4. Slide the guide foot forward until the rear edge of the presser foot is at the rear edge of the guide. 5. Place the fabric with the marked buttonhole under the guide foot. Lower the presser foot lever and follow steps on next page. (Check Hints for Perfect holes on Page 32.) g. 2 Hinge Fig. 3 Button- 3O | Step 1 Step 2 1. Set special stitch dial at r'l and bartack several times at the marked beginning of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the left stitch. Raise needle to its highest position by turning handwheel toward you manually. 2. Set special stitch dial at "iq. Stitch forward until the hinged the presser foot aligns with the dot on the left side of the guide foot. The toe of the presser foot will be touching the guide foot. Stop sewing at the left stitch and raise needle to position as in Step 1. Step 31 Step 3 3. Set special stitch dial at E] again and needle at its highest position as in steps 4. portion of buttonhole end of the its highest bartack 1 & 2. several times. 4 Raise Set special stitch dial at G. and continue sewing until the hinged portion of the presser foot aligns with the dot on the right side of the guide foot. You will have reached the bartacking done in Step 1. HINTS FOR PERFECT BUTTONHOLES < < Start The presser foot and buttonhole guide foot should be in this position at the start of the buttonhole sewing. The needle must be lowered at the marked line for the beginning of the buttonhole. See Fig. 1. / be in presser foot position buttonhole To make and guide shown in Fig. foot will < < < < < < < When the full length of the buttonhole is reached, the presser foot and guide foot will be in position shown in Fig. 2. The < < Fig. 1 REAR 1 when is completed. firm well stitched button- holes in heavier fabrics, repeat only steps 1 and 3 on the preceding page. Fig. 2 If the forward stitching does not exactly match the reverse stitching as shown in Fig. 3, slightly adjust the stitch length control during forward sewing. Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try the buttonhole with the button you will use. Use an interfacing between the layers of fabric tissue paper can be used and torn away after the stitching. 1 , Fig. 3 32 BUTTON SEWING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Feed DogsDown Zigzag Presser Dot Foot Use zigzag stitching plate. 1. Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely. 2. Turn hand wheel manually until neeclle point is just above button. 3. Adjust needle button. stitch width will enter left control so hole of the 4. Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle enters second hole. Readjust stitch width if necessary. Stitch a number of times. 5. Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining. Draw these threads to reverse side of garment and tie. BAR TACKING SETTINGS M Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - 2 to 4 m w Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Zigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag stitching ! I I ! ! I' ! I ! ! ! 33 o! plate. This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie. Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches. BLIND HEMMING SETTINGS Special Stitch DialStitch Width Control - 2 to 3 Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10 Zigzag foot or blindstitch Use zigzag stitching After guide plate. you have turned up the hem width Fig. 1 Raw edge fold desired, turn raw edge over 1/2" and stitch this fold with a basting stitch Press. Fold hem back against garmet with basted about 1/8" to right right side of Fig. 2 Hem folded back raw edge extending of garment fold. 34 Fig. 3 Fabric placed in blindstitch Fig. 4 Stitching stitch. along Fig. 5 Finished hem garment. 35 fold on with right guide. Place the fold of the hem in the slots of the attachment for guiding the fabric. Make certain zigzag stitch catches the fold of by adjusting the blindstitch slightly from left to right. two left ease in that the the hem guide blind side of Remove basting and press hem. Right side of garment will show only the blind stitches as in Fig. 5. ZIPPER APPLICATION SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - Red Dot Stitch Length Foot Control - 12 to 10 Zipper Use straight stitching REGULAR The foot right is adjustable side for of the the regular type the foot so the the side Carefully the ZIPPER or left sewing Adjust plate. the when of zipper. needle clears notch on the foot. follow directions zipper use on needle See Fig. 1. given on package. Fig. 1 INVISIBLE ZIPPER Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot teeth of the zipper. See Fig. facturer's 2. Follow instructions. the is riding zipper on the manu- After zipper has been inserted, finish sewing seam by shifting foot to side position sewing through side notch. Fig, 2 CORDING Foot can also be. used to make cording for slipcovers etc. Cover a cord with a strip of bias fabric and sew as shown in Fig. 3. Fig. 3 36 SPECIAL EDGE STITCH SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial Stitch Width Control- Stitch Length ControlZigzag Presser Foot Use zigzag stitching 1 to 4 Red Zone plate. This is an attractive overcasting stitch you may want to use on fabrics that fray easily. MENDING SETTINGS .;._._._._._.;.:.:._ _.,:.:-:._._._,:.'-_,'-'.'.'.'.'.'-'-'.','.'. - -.... -.......q; Special Stitch Dial - ?.: Stitch Width Control - 4 Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Zigzag Presser Foot Use straight .* ,,.,- *., ,.,,,,, ... • ,, .>. -., *. ,..., * • .,,,.+.::,.:,.:,. stitching plate. ,., To repair a straight or three-cornered tear, position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear. When mending a three-cornered tear, stitch from each end to the center. It is well to use a :::::-:::.:.:.:.:._ :.:.:.::.: piece of fabric under the tear for re:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: inforcement. ,,*.,.,*,,,,., •..,, • • ...,,.. ,..., [iiii!i!iiiiiii!!iiiiiiii!iiiii!!iii!!]iii[ii[i!i]i "i'_.:'2.1.2._.:.i.2,[,; '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.','.'.'.'.'.','.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.- DARNING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - Red Dot Stitch Width Control - Red Dot Pressure Regulator - 0 Feed Dogs - Up No Presser Foot 37 Remove presser foot, stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered. Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning. Lowering the presser bar, start sewing at a slow to medium speed. Move the fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover the darning area. When it is covered, turn the fabric and sew another layer of stitching across the first layer of stitching. 38 _0 3. Checking Performance Problems WHAT TO DO PROBLEM PROBABLE Incorrect CORRECTION Choose size needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread Pulling fabric. Irregular Stitches CAUSE correct Rethread tension. Light pressure on presser Loose presser foot. foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs on shuttle. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle size needle for thread and fabric. machine. Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Increase pressure on presser foot. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin. Replace shuttle, Replace needle or polish plate, off burrs or polish off completely. burrs completely. plate. Breaking Needle Bunching Thread of Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Choose correct size needle for thread Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot. Reset Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few are formed. starting Incorrect Puckering thread tension(s). Light pressure on presser Using two different sizes of thread. Bent or blunt needle. Loose Fabric Reset presser seam. foot. or kinds presser foot. too sheer or too soft. and fabric. needle. foot. Reset thread tension(s). Increase pressure on presser foot. Upper thread and bobbin thread should Insert new needle. Reset presser Use underlay foot, of tissue paper. under and stitches be same size and kind. PROBLEM PROBABLE Incorrect Skipping Stitches Breaking Upper Thread CAUSE size needle. Certain knits and synthetics. Bent or blunt needle. Incorrect setting Tight upper Light pressure of needle. thread on tension. presser foot. Fabric not Moving Machine Jamming Knocking Noise Choose correct size needle for thread Use "Q NEF, I)I,E",_. Insert Reset Loosen upper thread tension. Increase pressure on presser foot. Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine. Sharp eye in needle. Nicks or burrs on shuttle. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle Insert Loosen Choose speed. upper thread tension. correct size needle for thread shuttle, or polish off burrs Feed dog down. Light pressure on presser foot. Raise feed dog. Thread caught in shuttle. completely. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely. Check bobbin case threading. Loosen bobbin thread tension. Clean bobbin case and shuttle. under fabric. and fabric. new needle. Replace Improper bobbin case threading. Tight bobbin thread tension. Lint in bobbin case or shuttle. Thread knotted and fabric. new needle. needle. Starting to stitch too fast. Improper threading. Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle. plate. Breaking Bobbin Thread CORRECTION Increase pressure on presser foot. Place both threads back under presser beginning foot before to stitch. Disassemble and clean shuttle. 4:= O [] Caring for the Machine CLEANING AND Fig. 1 Cleaning brush• OILING the feed dogs with a To insure the best possible operation of your machine, it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times• Using a small brush, remove the lint that accumulates in the shuttle 1 area and around the feed dogs. Fig. 2 Parts of the Shuttle Clean the Shuttle To lever--_ .-,---lever Shuttle Area: 1. This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case. Push levers of shuttle race aside and lift shuttle race cover and shuttle out. , Assembly Assembly 3. Clean the brush. shuttle race with small Put a drop of oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race. , (see arrows) Shuttle Race Cover To Replace onted hook Shuttle driver , Position Shuttle shuttle Assembly: race as illustrated so that shuttle driver half moon on the left machine• • Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as to form a half moon on the right side. Pointed hook will be on the bottom. 3. Place shuttle race cover over shuttle assembly• Shuttle 41 Race Fig. 2 is forming side of tile into place OILING UNDER ARM COVER Remove arm cover plate to oil points To remove cover plate lift cover. PLATE indicated in top of machine head. 42 OILING UNDERSIDE Tilt machine underside (C), (D) head and (E) B 43 back and remove of machine. To remove as shown below. bottom cover to oil points bottom cover, remove indicated screws (A), on (B), OILING IN FACE COVER Swing hinged face cover plate points indicated in illustration. PLATE open and remove arm cover plate to oil SEWING Now MACHINE that you have purchased your Sewing Machine, need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck Simpsons-Sears Limited Stores. Be sure to provide facts when you The model number of your WHEN ORDERING REPAIR FOLLOWING INFORMATION: NUMBER If the parts electronically Center for SEARS, S - 158 a contact any and Co. or all pertinent call or visit. Sewing Machine will your nomenclature plate on the right side Machine. See Section 1, page 3 for location. *MODEL should *NAME PARTS, OF ITEM you need are not stocked transmitted to a Sears of ALWAYS *PART locally, Repair be shown your on Sewing GIVE THE DESCRIPTION your order will be Parts Distribution handling. ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL 60684 U.S.A. Part No. 69565 11/91