Download FPO - Sealife Cameras

Great Pictures Made Easy
by
Item #SL240
Guide to Underwater Photography for
ReefMaster and SportDiver Film Cameras
Popular
Camera Accessories:
External Flash (SL960)
for more colorful pictures.
Close-Up Set with 8X and 16X lenses.
(SL959) for close-up macro pictures.
Wide angle lens increases field
of view by 50% (SL970).
Moisture Muncher desiccant
to prevent fogging (SL911).
4 Rechargeable Ni-MH Batteries,
Size AA (Nickel Metal Hydride)
SL191
Hard and soft carry cases.
4 sizes available.
For more information please visit the Sealife website at:
www.sealife-cameras.com
I. Introduction
Thank you for purchasing a SeaLife camera. You are on your way to discovering
the beauty and magic of our underwater world. Your SeaLife camera will add a
new dimension of excitement to your undersea adventure. There is no better way
to preserve your memories or share the thrills with your friends and family than by
showing a picture.
This manual will teach you how to set-up and care for your underwater camera to
ensure years of trouble-free operation. You will learn the secrets on how to take
great pictures. Good and bad picture samples are included in this manual for you
to compare and learn from your experience. The rest of the adventure is up to
you.
Please let us know if there is any way we can help by contacting us at
[email protected] or calling (856) 866-9192.
1
Contents:
PAGE
I. Introduction ..............................................................................................................1
II. Getting to Know Your Camera ..........................................................................4
III. MUST DO! ................................................................................................................6
IV. How Easy It Is......Set up your new SeaLife Camera ................................7
a. Remove Inner Camera ..................................8
g. Taking a Test Picture ......................14
b. Turn Power On ..............................................9
h. Checking the Battery Condition ......14
c. Loading Film and Fresh Batteries ................10
i. Cleaning After Use ..........................15
d. Clean O-Ring / Seal Area ............................11
j. Re-Winding the Film ........................16
e. Insert SeaLife Anti Fog Desiccant................12
k. Dry Storage ......................................17
f. Insert Inner Camera and close housing ......13
V. Tips for Great Picture ........................................................................................18
a. Just Do It! ....................................................18
h. Distance Range for SeaLife Cameras..25
b. Capture the Magic ......................................18
i. Pictures on Boats and Beaches ......27
c. The Great Hunt ............................................19
j. Catch, Click and Release ................27
d. Great Effects ................................................20
k. Pictures on Land in Dry Conditions....28
e. Key to Good Pictures ..................................22
l. Using the Flash ................................28
f. Taking Pictures Underwater ........................23
m. Inspiring Books ................................29
g. Distance Without Close-Up Lens ................24
n. U/W Photo Courses ........................29
2
VI. Examples of Good & Bad Pictures ..............................................................30
VII. SeaLife Film Camera Models and Accessories ......................................34
a. Spare Parts ..................................................................................................................34
b. SeaLife Close-Up and Wide Angle Lenses..................................................................35
c. External Flash ..............................................................................................................36
d. Care and Maintenance Items ......................................................................................37
e. Storage Cases ............................................................................................................38
f. Film Camera Models ..................................................................................................39
g. Digital Camera Models ................................................................................................40
VIII. Trouble Shooting Guide ................................................................................41
IX. Service and Warranty ......................................................................................44
Warning: Before operating the camera you must read and understand this
manual. For updates to this manual visit www.sealife-cameras.com.
Send your suggestions regarding this manual to:
Pioneer Research
Attn: Sealife Manuals
97 Foster Rd, Moorestown, NJ 08057
[email protected]
3
II. Getting to Know Your Camera:
Viewfinder
Window
Sports Finder
Color
Coded
Frame
Counter
Opening
Latch
Color Coded
Frame Counter
Flash
Window
Viewfinder
Flash
Shutter
Release
Flash
Override
(ReefMaster
RC only)
Film Rewind
Main O-Ring
(Don’t remove or grease.
Keep Clean)
Opening
Latch
Power Switch and
Lens Cover
Applies to SeaLife ReefMaster® and Sport Diver II
4
2AA
Batteries
Sports Finder
Color Coded
Frame Counter
Viewfinder
Window
Opening
Latch
Flash
Window
Main O-Ring
(Don’t remove or grease.
Keep Clean)
Opening
Latch
5
III. MUST DO!
Very Important: Not following these points may void your warranty.
All Camera Models
A)
Before opening the camera housing: Everything, including your hands, arms, and head
must be ABSOLUTELY DRY: Have a dry towel handy. Change film or batteries in an
air-conditioned or dry, cool room. Insert the 1.5 g. Moisture Muncher Capsule to
prevent fogging. (See page 12). One drop of water in the housing may cause the lens
to fog.
B)
The O-ring must be completely seated in the groove, smooth and clean. DO
NOT REMOVE or GREASE O-RING!. O-ring is glued in place. Follow O-ring care
instructions on page 11.
C)
After use and before opening immediately wash closed camera housing in fresh
water and dry well. It’s normal for some water to become trapped between the
ReefMaster armor and housing. This will not cause any damage and eventually dry.
In addition, periodically wash open housing without inner camera. After washing, dry
well. Clean lenses with cleaning pads lightly soaked in detergent and water, then
rinse and dry. Do not let drops dry on lenses.
D)
Use the unbreakable airtight SeaLife Dry Case for dry storage with a large 1 oz.
Moisture Muncher Pack and for transportation on boats, airplanes, trucks etc. The
lifetime of batteries as well as the camera and other tools or electronics will be
greatly extended. (See page 17).
6
IV. How Easy It Is...
Set up your new SeaLife Camera
Most important: When opening the
housing, your hands, arms, head, and
the camera must be completely dry
and clean of water, sand and dust.
Always load your camera in an airconditioned or dry cool room.
Open both latches
7
a) Remove Inner Camera
Remove the inner camera from the housing and insert fresh AA batteries.
Remove the inside camera
8
Insert 2 fresh AA Alkaline
batteries in film cameras. SeaLife
rechargeable NiMH batteries are
recommended.
b) Turn Power On
Turn Camera Power on before inserting camera in housing: Open the lens cover by
moving the switch below the lens of the inner camera. This will turn the power on. Push the
shutter release to test power (without film).
Turn power ON by opening
lens cover switch.
Open film door by sliding down latch
on back of inner camera.
9
c) Loading Film and Fresh Batteries
a) Use 200 speed 24 exposure film and 2
fresh AA Alkaline batteries. Replace
batteries if “Flash Ready” light takes
more than 12 seconds to recycle.
b) Turn camera power ON (below lens of
inner camera) by opening lens cover
switch.
c) Before loading film, push shutter button
once to test camera advance.
d) Insert film roll. Make sure roll is properly
seated onto rewind shaft.
e) Pull film tab over and into take-up spool
Close door. If hatch does not close easily,
film cartridge is not in correct position.
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and press shutter until film engages.
Film should lay flat across film plane and
sprocket teeth.
f) Close film door. If the film door is
obstructed by film roll, remove and reinsert roll until film door closes without
any obstruction.
g) Push Shutter button to advance film to
picture “1” in the frame counter window.
h) You might advance film by one frame
with the film door open to check proper
advance and position of the film.
Advance until frame counter reads 1. Film
counter turns red 4 frames before end of film.
d) Clean O-Ring / Seal Area
The waterproof seal is the most critical part. It must be kept meticulously clean. You must
carefully check the O-ring area before each use. Brush away any sand, dirt, hair, etc.
from O-ring. Use the cleaning brush provided.
Do not remove O-rings.
Clean off O-ring with
brush provided.
The O-ring should never be greased or removed. If the O-ring shows signs of damage
have it replaced by an authorized SeaLife Service Facility. Ask your dealer or contact the
SeaLife Service Center (see back cover) or your country’s distributor.
11
Film Cameras
e) Insert SeaLife Anti Fog Desiccant. This will prevent
fogging of the lens and protect the electronics from humidity.
The small 1.5 g capsule fits between 2 ribs of ReefMaster film
camera models and 2 cartridges clip into the housing of digital
cameras. Do this in dry air without delay since Moisture
Muncher will absorb moisture immediately once you open the
air tight package. It is best done the night before the dive so
Moisture Muncher has enough time to absorb all the humidity
inside the camera. Whenever possible, load the camera in dry
air, such as in an air conditioned room.
Always take a good supply of Moisture Muncher with you
when you go on vacation. The larger 28 g / 1 oz. size is
recommended to keep the inside of your airtight SeaLife Dive
Travel and Accessory Case, tools and batteries completely
dry and free from mildew and corrosion. SeaLife desiccant
capsules and the larger Moisture Muncher Bag contain color
indicator crystals that change from blue to pink as it absorbs
moisture. Replace Moisture Muncher when crystals are pink in
color. See page 37 for more details about Moisture Muncher.
IMPORTANT: Do not obstruct O-ring or sealing area with Moisture
Muncher or housing will flood.
12
f) Insert Inner Camera and close housing lid
Insert the inner film camera with the power on and lens open (power switch below the
lens). Make sure the Moisture Muncher or any other matter does not interfere with closing
the housing.
Power save function:
The power will turn off automatically, when the
camera is not used within about 2 to 3 minutes
and will turn on again by a light touch on the
shutter release.
Hold the latch down deep inside the strike
while closing. Do not use force.
Take a test picture. If film does not advance or FLASH READY light does not turn on, see
page 41 for Trouble Shooting Guide.
13
g) Taking a Test Picture
Just push the trigger or the shutter button
of the camera. Everything is automatic.
h) Checking the Battery Condition
1. If FLASH READY takes longer than 12
seconds to turn on after taking a picture,
your batteries are not in good condition and
should be replaced. Always take extra
batteries along.
2. Alkaline AA batteries normally last for
about 8 rolls of film.
14
i) Cleaning After Use
After leaving the water, the sealed camera housing should be washed thoroughly in
fresh water. Never let salt water dry on the camera or the housing. Dry with a clean
towel. Salt crystals will damage the O-ring and lens and attract humidity. Never let water
drops dry on any lens. Wipe it dry with a soft lens cleaning tissue. Allow camera to dry
completely before storage.
15
j) Re-Winding the Film
With power on, slide the small switch at the bottom of the inner camera to rewind the film.
When the film is completely rewound and winder has stopped, open the back cover and
put your film in a marked dry container and store it cool. When taking your film to the lab,
remember to request sample prints, called index print. (See page 33, letter e).
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k) Dry Storage
For long-term storage remove the
batteries from the camera. Leaking
batteries can ruin your camera. Store
the camera with the latches not
tightened inside an air tight SeaLife
Dry Case with one large 1 oz. bag of
Moisture Muncher. (See page 37).
For storage of additional parts you can
cut openings in the foam with a sharp
knife. If you buy the case as an
optional accessory, pick & pluck foam
lets you customize it. The large knob
below the handle is a pressure
equalizing valve. Turn this open after
being in an airplane or at high altitude.
The SeaLife Dry Box has enough
space for optional accessories, closeup lens, extra film, batteries, and
perhaps even your spare parts. (See
Spare Parts list on page 38).
Rechargeable NiMH batteries can lose up to 10% of power per day at room temperature.
They should be stored refrigerated, but best is to re-charge them over night before your
dive.
17
V. Tips for Great Pictures
a) Just Do It!
One of the best ways to learn about underwater photography is to just do it and learn
from your best shots and from mistakes. Even the best photographers have taken
countless bad pictures… that’s the way they became better and better. Here is the trick:
Just shoot anything in front of your lens in a variety of conditions, distances, colors,
objects etc. Then look at every picture and take a note of what’s good or bad about the
shot. We evaluated several thousand pictures and found that even amateurs can take
great pictures by simply avoiding a few common mistakes. (For the most common errors
see the picture examples on pages 30-33). You will be surprised that among your
snapshots you will find some award-winning pictures. Put the good ones in an album.
But keep one bad shot of each typical error. After a while you will achieve good control
and even perfection.
The best pictures are taken with a close-up lens which also acts as an underwater filter.
The SeaLife 3X Close-Up Lens has a distance range from 2ft. - 4 ft/60 - 120 cm. In lower
water visibility, the SeaLife Close-Up Lens is a must. The key to good pictures is to get
close. The reason is that water absorbs more light than air. In air you could see up to 30
miles, in water your eyes can see 100 ft., at most, but a camera can see less than half of
that and much less red and yellow than your eyes.
b) Capture the Magic
What do you want to capture on film? What attracts you to underwater photography?
What scenes are so breathtaking that people say “this is so unbelievable, I wish I had a
camera to show this to my friends”?
You will encounter strange creatures, see incredible effects of light and colors, explore
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wrecks, corals and plants that appear as if they were from a different planet, while you
float effortlessly through water without gravity.
And after years of adventures with your SeaLife camera you will look at your albums,
perhaps even at an impressive gallery of framed enlargements. And it may be only then
that you discover the real treasure that you found with your camera: You have learned to
use your eyes to see and experience the underwater world, one of the greatest miracles
on earth.
As the manufacturer of SeaLife, we believe that an easy-to-use underwater camera will
help millions of divers and non-divers to experience and see a part of our world which is
essential to our survival.
And we hope that you will enrich and enlighten your life by capturing valuable
impressions in the underwater world with your SeaLife Camera.
c) The Great Hunt
While you hunt for a big strange fish or a good shot of
your buddy with a stingray, always include the
underwater magic in your pictures.
Get a mystic blue background, an interesting little red
fish and yellow coral in the foreground. These color
contrasts will add depth to your pictures.
Capture rising air bubbles against the reflections of the
surface water. This will indicate motion.
Use the walls of a canyon as a frame for your object, look for contrasting colors, bizarre
shapes, towering kelp forests, subtle shades of water colors, sand and rock, wild
structures, or dark shades of a wreck penetrated by spears of sun rays.
19
The primary target for most people is, of course, a good picture of yourself and your
friends surrounded by tropical fish. This is actually the easiest part.
A diver should be only 5ft./1 50 cm. away for a good picture. Portrait shots of diver and
fish are best taken at 2ft. to 4 ft. with the snap-on 3X Close-Up lens. Use the 8X CloseUp lens for extreme close-up of 14” to 16” / 36 cm. to 41 cm. For larger objects such as
group shots or sharks use the SeaLife wide angle lens at distances of 3 - 5 ft.
/ 90-150 cm.
You may chum for fish with bits of food, but pick something that does not fall apart and
cloud up the water (for example, bread dissolves and clouds up the water). Check with a
local dive master to select chum that does not endanger the fish.
Be very calm and patient, and let that curious fish get closer and closer. There are two
ways of using current to your advantage: 1. Drift motionless along with your camera in
ready position. 2. Stay in a camera-ready waiting position, approach your subject facing
the current.
Always take notes of your pictures and mark your films. It is very exciting to document every
fish in your area in an album.
Once you have some experience you might start to take slides and put a presentation
together, possibly combined with music and video for dive clubs, schools and friends.
Scan your best film pictures and use them just like digital images.
d) Great Effects
Everything about seeing and taking pictures is about light. Pay attention to light and
shade, colors and contrasts, don’t just get mesmerized by that big fish.
20
Your best colors and effects will be where the sun still penetrates the water: Dive or
snorkel at a vertical sun from 10 am to 2 pm in a depth not greater than 25 ft. / 8 m.
Each depth and light condition has its own attraction. Experiment and capture different
effects at different depths and scenes. In crystal clear tropical waters you will get great
turquoise water colors to a depth of 20 ft. / 7 m., then an intense blue, and a wonderful
deep blue beyond 40 ft. / 12 m. In the SeaLife ReefMaster RC film camera the built-in
“Coral Flash” will intensify red and yellow colors of close objects (4 ft. to 6 ft. / 1.2 m. to
1.8 m.) and leave the blue background untouched. Color corrected macro lenses will
intensify the warm colors (red and yellow) even more and moderate the flash.
Look for rich color contrasts. Use the Sealife External Flash to add color and brightness.
To really illuminate coral or any area further than 5 ft., you cannot just increase the power of
your flash, but you must position one or two external flashes sideways of your lens and
direct it at an angle of 20 to 30 degrees at the object. If the water is not as clear as you may
wish, choose closer objects. Use 1 flash for high contrast, and two for even illumination and
rich colors. The 3X Close-Up lens can be used for distances of 2 ft. to 4 ft. / 60 cm. to
1.2 m., the 8X Close-Up lens for 14” to 16”/35cm. to 40cm., the 16X Close-Up for 8” to 9”.
Just a black silhouette against the bright water surface can make a dramatic shot.
A “halo” effect can be created by the sun or a light source behind a person or a sea creature.
In bright conditions on land or in snorkeling use ISO 100 print film or ISO 64 for slides.
An external strobe will also reduce “marine snow”, caused by the flash hitting
21
microscopically small particles like algae or plankton. The primary flash of the camera must
be covered with a flash reflector which reflects the light towards the external flash sensor
and not directly towards the target. SeaLife Close-Up Lenses also help to reduce marine
snow.
For pictures partially above and under water, coat the lens with a touch of detergent.
This will prevent water from beading on the lens. This can take many trials until the water
surface is exactly on the center of the lens.
e) Key to Good Pictures
Crystal clear water! For film cameras: shooting distance u/w 4 ft. to 5 ft. / 1.2 to 1.5 m.
Better 2 to 4 feet and 3X macro lens. FLASH READY light on. Be calm and patient and
move very slowly. Hold camera steady. External flash(es) always get you the best
pictures, especially below 30 feet/10 m. or in darker light. Shoot the same scene
several times with different distances.
Maximum depth ratings: ReefMaster Film: 164 ft. / 50 m. SportDiver II: 164 ft. / 50 m.
Film: ISO 200. Use ISO 100 print or slide film in extremely bright conditions, on beaches
or snorkeling. Processing: Tell your photo lab that you’re developing underwater
pictures and to increase red and yellow as needed to balance the picture color. Request
sample prints.
22
f) Taking Pictures Underwater
Depth: All ReefMaster and SportDiver II film models are tested to 164 ft./ 50 m.
Approach your subject slowly. It’s best to remain motionless. Wait for fish to become
confident and swim into a good position, best
against the current. Aiming of film cameras
should be done only through the sports finder,
holding it directly to your mask or learn to aim
with stretched out arms. The ring in the center
must appear as a circle, not as an oval. The
optical viewfinder (looking through the camera
housing) is intended only for a rough check on
your framing.
Press the shutter release swiftly and completely
down, not in a slow motion, holding the camera
firm and steady. Let the trigger come up swiftly
as well, don’t keep it down. Never force the
shutter release beyond its normal stop position.
Protect it well from pressure by other gear in
your dive bag.
23
g) Distance Without Close-Up Lens
The distance of film cameras to the object should never be less than 4 ft. / 1.2 m.,
ideally 5 ft. to 6 ft. / 1.5 to 1.80 m. Longer distances are only successful in extremely
clear water and to background objects. The general rule is: Water visibility
(horizontally) should be 10 times the
shooting distance.
Minimum distance without close-up lens.
The built-in flash is designed for
foreground illumination and richer colors
at distances up to 5 ft. / 1.20 m. The
orange “Coral Flash” of the ReefMaster
RC will help to avoid the U/W blue effect
of near-by objects. Always wait until the
green FLASH READY light on the back of
the camera turns on before taking a
picture (about 10 sec).
Tip: Measure your closest distance “Chin
to Fin” on land. Once you have determined a length of 5 ft. / 1.5 m., stretch out your legs
under water and test your distance judgment.
You will soon learn that distances underwater appear 1/3 closer than they actually are.
The ideal distance is 5 ft./1.20m… “from chin to fin” without macro or wide angle lens.
24
h) Distance Range for SeaLife Film Cameras
LENS
UNDERWATER
inches
Standard
Macro 3X
48” - ∞
24-48”
ON LAND
cm
120 cm - ∞
60-120 cm
inches
cm
48” - ∞
120 cm - ∞
10-14”
25-36 cm
Macro 8X
14-16”
36-41cm
4-5”
10-13 cm
Macro 16X
8-9”
20-23 cm
2-3”
5-8 cm
n/a
n/a
Wide Angle 24mm
24” - ∞
60 cm - ∞
The correct distances are easy to remember.
• Stretch out your fin: “from chin to fin” is the
distance with a standard lens.
• Stretch out your arm as far as you can reach.
This is the distance for the 3X Macro lens.
• The 8X and 16X Macro lens come with the
practical Macro Wand, which gives you an exact
distance. The SeaLife Wide Angle lens expands
the picture frame by 50%.
Macro lens on
Macro lens off
25
i) Pictures on Boats and Beaches
SeaLife cameras should always be used in
their waterproof housing when taking pictures
in any humid, sandy, or hazardous
environments. The tough housing is not only a
good protection against moisture but also
against sand as well as shocks and bumps on
adventurous trips.
j) Catch, Click and Release
Sport fishermen can rely on their SeaLife
Camera to capture the image of that trophy
fish before it’s released.
27
k) Pictures on Land in Dry
Conditions
On land, in dry conditions you
will enjoy the compact and light
weight SeaLife camera without
housing.
Keep the lens cover of film
cameras closed and keep the
digital camera on land always in
its soft case so the lens stays
clean.
Film selection: Use ISO 200 as
general rule. On land or in
shallow water, in bright light, you
may also use ISO 100 film
(instead of ISO 200). Slides: ISO 200 slide film can be used for diving, but in bright
snorkel or beach conditions ISO 100 or 64 should be used.
l) Using the Flash
The built-in flash in film cameras is automatic on land and
underwater, and will fire in dark light conditions. The
ReefMaster RC allows manual override for a fill flash to avoid
dark shadows or to suppress the flash. This is done by holding
the slide switch as shown.
28
Truly colorful pictures require
the SeaLife External Flash,
particularly deeper than
20 ft./6 m. The External Flash
reduces backscatter, if the
flash head is moved far away
from the lens. Two flashes
reduce shadows and are
used in most professional
photography.
Film camera, ReefMaster
Pro Set, with external flash
and Macro 3X lens/filter.
The Reefmaster Maxx with 2
flashes and Close-Up lenses.
m) Inspiring Books
Visit the website www.sealife-cameras.com and see pictures, links, and the latest SeaLife
publications on underwater photography. Every dive or photo dealer with an underwater
camera department will have some worthwhile books on underwater photography. An
illustrated reference book should be your constant companion as well as this manual.
Keep it inside your SeaLife Dry Box. The best book, however, is the one you yourself
compose.
n) An U/W Photo Course can be very enjoyable.
Ask your dive instructor. Your dive store also offers a variety of trips with “Underwater
Photo Safaris” to the world’s most beautiful reefs in good company and with a
knowledgeable guide.
29
VI. Examples of Good & Bad Pictures
a) Stay Within the Ideal Distance
FPO
FPO
Distance 6 ft. / 1.80 m, regular lens, shallow, sunny
FPO
30 2 ft., too close for film camera
use 3X Close-Up lens
Distance 3 ft. / 90 cm with MACRO 3X close-up lens
FPO
Distance 4 to 5 ft., regular lens
better picture
FPO
Distance 8 ft., too far
Good & Bad Pictures
b) Crystal Clear Water
No matter what equipment you use, good underwater pictures require crystal clear water.
(It is important to remember that the human eye can see more detail than any camera.)
Low visibility is caused by small
particles, like algae. Use the
Close-Up lens
Avoid floating particles stirred up
by currents, waves or divers.
FPO
3X lens 2-4 ft./
8X lens 14”-16” / 36 cm. to 41 cm.
16X lens
Visibility better than 50 ft./15m
(horizontally) gives you the best
pictures. Shoot at the ideal
range, 4 to 5 ft./1.2 to 1.5 m. or
even closer with a macro lens.
FPO
FPO
Backscatter of the internal
flash from sand.
Low visibility
use Close-Up lenses
Perfect visibility
31
Good & Bad Pictures
c) External Flash: The purpose of a U/W flash is to bring out colors at the ideal shooting
range inside 8 ft. / 2.5m., not to illuminate objects at longer distances.
FPO
FPO
FPO
Distance 4 ft., In dark cave.
Overflash on close object.
(regular lens, double ext. flash) (regular lens, ext.flash, also aimed
too high) use Diffuser (SL968)
32
The MACRO lens/uw filter
corrects color and moderates
the flash (2 ft. / 60cm.)
Good & Bad Pictures
d) Composition: Look for good color contrast between object (fish), surrounding (coral)
and background (water). Look for exciting shapes.
FPO
FPO
FPO
Great shot, but poor contrast
Good contrast
(with MACRO 3X close-up lens)
Interesting Coral Shapes
(with regular lens)
e) Color Correction: UW filter, macro lens, special processing, or editing are ways to
increase yellow and red. Request to see sample prints at your photo lab, called index prints.
FPO
Below 30 ft./10 m. most yellow and red is absorbed
by the water, leaving only blue.
FPO
Here the photo lab added yellow and red.
33
VII. SeaLife Film Camera Models and Accessories
a) Spare Parts: Most important spare parts and item numbers.
FILM
ReefMaster RC
Sport Diver II
inner camera
SL201
SL54501
housing
SL210
SL2101A
lid o-ring
Not available - seek authorized service
Not available - seek authorized service
body o-ring
Not available - seek authorized service
Not available - seek authorized service
o-ring cement
Not available - seek authorized service
Not available - seek authorized service
sports finder
Hard Case/Pick &
Pluck Foam Insert
SL22118
SL22118
SL930
SL930
Many SeaLife dealers carry spare parts. Ask your local dive dealer. If you purchased
your ReefMaster in the United States, you can also order replacement or spare parts
from:Optic Options: orders only: (800) 872-0273 / information only: (765) 538-3484.
34
b) SeaLife Close-Up and Wide Angle Lenses / U/W Filters for best close-up pictures
For distance ranges of each lenses see table on page 25.
8X and 16X
Filters
FPO
Macro 3X - Item SL951
2-4ft./60-120 cm. Item
Wideangle Lens:
increases frame by 50 %,
distance
2 ft./60 cm.
-infinity
Item SL970
Macro Wand
Close-Up Set - Item SL959
includes all above 3 items.
Macro 8X: 14-16”/36-41 cm. (Macro Set)
Macro 16X: 8-9”/20-23 cm (Macro Set)
Macro Wand: Distancing tool for 8X/ 16X retracts and
extends, folds sideways when not in use, and attaches
to the flash mounting bracket.
35
Accessories (continued)
c) External Flash - Item SL960
External flash adds color and brightness to your
pictures. It also helps reduce backscatter.
36
Two external flashes can be mounted for maximum
brightness, color and to eliminate shadows.
d) Care and Maintenance Items
SeaLife/Moisture Muncher Anti-Fog Desiccant
4 Rechargeable Ni-MH
Batteries, Size AA
(Nickel Metal Hydride)
SL191
Capsules - Item SL911
10 - 1.5 gram capsules
Large - Item M101
Use inside closed hard cases.
SeaLife desiccant capsules for
digital and film camera models.
NiMH Battery Charger
SL190
3 Foreign Plug Adapters
Flash diffuser (SL968) prevents
over exposing close-up pictures
within 2-1/2' of shooting distance.
(included with SL190)
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Accessories (continued)
e) SeaLife Soft Padded Camera Cases
Designed to hold all SeaLife Cameras and extra film.
Soft Case for UW
Camera
Item SL945
Soft Case for UW Camera
and External Flash
Item SL946
Soft Case for UW Camera and
2 External Flash Units and Macro Set
Item SL63001
SeaLife Dive Travel &
Accessory Case
Unbreakable airtight case
with “pick & pluck” foam and
air release valve for camera.
Item SL930
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FPO
f) SeaLife Film Camera Models
ReefMaster
U/W Photo
Set
ReefMaster RC
with MACRO 3X
Close-Up Lens
and Dive Travel
Hard Case
Item SL511
★
FPO
ReefMaster RC
Pro Set
ReefMaster RC
with External Flash,
MACRO 3X Close-Up
Lens and soft
carry case.
Item SL560
SeaLife
SportDiver II Clear Lexan
housing,
f 5.6/1/125 sec.,
depth tested to
164 ft./50m.
Item SL545
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g) SeaLife Digital Camera Models:
Digital cameras have dramatically changed how we capture, review, and share pictures.
As we revise this manual, SeaLife is developing it’s 5th generation digital camera. There
are too many to list here, so we hope you will visit our website for updates on the latest
digital camera models.
Major benefits of SeaLife digital cameras
• Instant Gratification – Review your picture on the color LCD. If you don’t like it, delete it.
Keep only the best pictures.
• Sharing Your Pictures – You can share your pictures with others between dives or later
that day. It’s easy to download pictures to your computer and
email the best ones to your friends and family.
• Expandable Accessories – All SeaLife camera accessories for film cameras will adapt
to and work with SeaLife Digital cameras.
SeaLife Reefmaster DC310
Digital camera (front)
40
SeaLife Reefmaster DC310
Digital camera (back)
SeaLife Reefmaster DC310
Pro set
VIII. Trouble Shooting Guide
Important: This section must be read before taking any action.
Problem: Film jams or does not advance. Reason: Most film advance problems are
caused by improper film loading. Solutions: Follow proper film loading instructions on
page 10. If film is jammed (will not advance), hit rewind switch on camera, load film again
and advance to the frame where it got jammed. If film will not rewind, have a photo shop
with a black room remove film for you.
Inspect camera batteries for sufficient power. Replace if necessary.
Problem: Pictures are not satisfactory Reasons: Poor water visibility caused by
microorganisms (algae) or stirred up sand or sediments. Improper shooting distance.
Solutions: Keep the proper shooting distance, see chart on page 26.
Problem: Blue pictures. Reasons: Too far, not enough light. Solutions: Use macro lens,
and/or external flash. Tell lab that you have underwater pictures and that they should
make color corrections (Increase red and yellow). With digital pictures you can try to
balance the color on your PC. However, it is not possible to increase red and yellow
objects, if the picture does not contain any red and yellow at all to begin with.
Problem: Overflashing. Reason: Close white, reflective objects (fish, rocks, skin, etc).
Solution: Aim External Flash slightly away from close-up objects or use External Flash diffuser.
Problem: Picture too dark. Reasons: Flash did not fire. Dark light and distance too far for
flash. Solutions: Always wait for flash ready light to turn on before taking pictures, or use
External Flash for shooting distances up to 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.5m).
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Problem: Pictures not sharp. Reason: Quick, jerky movements while swimming or
chasing fish. Solutions: Control your buoyancy, stay calm and keep camera still when
shooting.
Other reasons: Lenses not clean or fogged. Solutions: Always keep camera and housing
lenses clean. Finger prints and dirty lenses will result in unclear pictures. It’s a good
practice to inspect the glass port for fogging while underwater.
Problem: Housing fogs-up while underwater. Reasons: One drop of water trapped
inside the housing can cause the lens to fog. Setting up the camera and sealing the
housing in a hot, humid area can cause fogging, when the camera cools down in colder
water. Solutions: Inner camera or inside housing must be perfectly dry. Use SeaLife Anti
Fog Desiccant (page 12), set-up camera in an air-conditioned room, and rub a drop of
antifog lotion on the inside of the port lens. If you still experience fogging you may have a
leak.
Problem: Housing leaks water. Reason: O-ring does not seal properly. Solutions:
1) Hold the camera steady so that small amounts of water can stay in a corner of the
housing and surface safely and slowly, handing the camera slowly to a person on the
boat who must keep the camera in the same position. Remove the inner camera
slowly, and dry off camera as quickly as possible.
2) Remove batteries immediately. Never operate a camera that has been flooded or is
wet. You can get a shock and cause more damages.
3) Inspect main O-ring and sealing area for damage or debris (sand, hair, etc.). If O-ring
shows damage or imperfection, have it replaced by an authorized Sealife service center.
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4) Make sure glass port is not split or cracked. Inspect for other obvious damages that
may cause a leak in the housing (Cracks, tears, punctures, etc.).
5) Make sure the Moisture Muncher capsule is not interfering with the O-ring or sealing
area. Follow instructions on page 12.
6) Inspect closing latches for damage and proper tension. If damaged or bent, have
latches replaced by authorized Sealife service center. A waterproof test can be
performed at most scuba dive stores. A simple home test can be made by
submerging the housing without inner camera in water overnight. Place 2 lb./1kg soft
weight wrapped in a paper napkin in housing. Carefully dry and open housing not to
drip water inside and inspect towel for water spots indicating a leak.
Problem: Glare or reflection appears in picture. Reason: Improperly attached macro
lens. Solutions: The close-up lens must be completely pushed on the housing and sit
flat. Make sure your hand does not push on the macro lens or pull on the safety lanyard
of the lens. Or have a new docking port ring attached to your camera at a SeaLife
service center.
Problem: Flash does not fire. Reason: Flash-ready light was not on. Or: External flash
head sensor was not directed towards camera. Solution: Wait for flash ready light to
turn on before shooting picture. Test and replace batteries if necessary. Flash is
automatic, and may not fire in bright light. Taking another shot at a different angle with
more dark background will cause the flash to fire. Make sure the flash sensor of the
external flash is directed towards the camera, since the primary flash of the camera
triggers all secondary flashes.
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IX. Service and Warranty
This product will be replaced or repaired free of charge within 1 year from the purchase
date in the case of a manufacturing defect, if the complete defective product is sent
freight prepaid at the sender’s risk to: Pioneer Research, 97 Foster Road, Suite 5,
Moorestown, NJ 08057 or to the importer in a different country. Contact the service
center to obtain a return authorization #, before shipping product. Include a letter
describing the damage or defect, your return address (no PO Box), daytime phone # and
a copy of the original purchase receipt or proof of purchase with the purchase date.
Excluded are any consequential damages, cosmetic damages, damages to products
which show abuse, non-conformance with the instructions, particularly water damage
due to a damaged O-ring or removed O-ring or any particles wedged between the
housing and the O-ring, or tampering and attempted repair of the product. Excluded are
scratches on lenses or damaged lens coatings. Products used in rental operations are
excluded from this warranty.
To obtain R A # contact Customer Service at 1-800-257-7742
Pioneer Research, 97 Foster Road, Suite 5, Moorestown, NJ 08057 USA
Phone: (856)-866-9192 • Fax: (856)-866-8615.
Register your warranty online at www.sealife-cameras.com
E-mail:
Customer Service: [email protected]
Repair Department: [email protected]
Or contact the SeaLife distributor in your country.
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Pioneer Research, 97 Foster Rd, Moorestown NJ 08057
Rev. 11/04 Copyright 1997, 2002, 2004