Download Icom IC-765 Notes

manual. While we’re in there, we’ll check out a few other things that may need
attention. Time’s wasting, so let’s get started!
What You’ll Need
• Soldering iron — 15–25 watt
• Solder wick — to remove solder from traces and shield cans
• Soldering gun — here we want something on the order of 100 watt
• 60/40 rosin core solder (I use Kester Rosin Core 44)
• #1 and #2 phillips screwdrivers
• Small pair of “nippy” cutters (wire cutters). Smaller the better
• Small “jewelers” type screwdrivers, preferably plastic handles, or similar adjustment tool
• Digital voltmeter
Of course you’ll also need the replacement trimmer capacitors. The capacitors
we’ll be replacing are designated C11, C20, C29, and C37. C11 and C20 are 10pF
(picofarad), while C29 and C37 are 7pF. Now. . . here’s where I begin to deviate
from the book a bit. First, let me say without equivocation — I have nothing
against Icom service, or ordering replacement parts from them. However, in this
situation I had the parts in hand to do this repair, and they work fine. But — if
you feel that you should get these parts from Icom, by all means do so. Here are
the Icom part numbers to ask for —
Icom part#
• 4610001130 — trimmers C11 & C20 (order two)
• 4610001000 — trimmers C29 & C37 (order two)
Now, having said that, you can also get suitable replacements from Digikey
(www.digikey.com). They have to have leads spaced 4.5 mm apart, be ceramic,
and of course be the proper capacitance. I found these Sprague GKG series ceramic
units (http://www.spraguegoodman.com/305/305p4.html) to be more than adequate —
Digikey part#
• SG1029-ND — 3.5–10pF ceramic (white — Sprague part# GKG10024)
I used this 10pF unit for all 4 caps. Why? Well, C11 and C20 were 10pF
anyway, but Icom recommends in their service notes that C29 be changed from
7pF to 12pF for ease of adjustment. C37 is(was) 7pF as well, so I figured why not
try a 10 there as well? No worries — the 10pF works just fine for all 4 replacements.
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