Download Sears 385. 11607 Sewing Machine User Manual

OWNER'S MANUAL
SEWING
MACH
SEARS, ROEBUCK
AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You
have lust
invested
in a very
please pause for a moment
and care for your
Specific
instructions
are given
the best sewing
Advice
on the
the model
results
operation
if you
number
sewing
machine.
read this booklet
Before
which
using your
contains
new Kenmore
instructions
on how
machine,
to operate
machine.
obtain
Please remember,
fine zigzag
and carefully
on threading,
tension
adjustments,
and avoid unnecessary
and care of your
have questions
and serial number
machine
about
when
you
cleaning,
service expense
is always
your
available
machine
oiling,
etc. This will
for conditions
at your
or need parts
beyond
nearest
Sears Retait
and service,
inquire.
Kenrnore Sewing Machine
Record
m space
number
of
are located
this
provided
appliance,
on the
below
the
The model
nomenclature
model
number
plate,
number
and
and seriat
as identified
serfat
number
on Page 4 of
this booklet.
Model
No. 385,
Retain
these numbers
THIS MODEL
Sofia1 No,
for future
reference.
1SA CENTER NEEDLE,
help you
our control.
LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.
always
Store.
mention
UMPORTANT SAFETY
_NSTRUCTIONS
Your
sewing
machine
Read al! instruction
is designed
before
and constructed
using this sewing
only
4.
Never
operate
ventilation
accumulation
for HOUSEHOLD
use,
machine.
Never drop
6.
Do not use outdoors.
7.
Do
8.
1,
An appliance
unplug
and before
2.
should
this
Always
never
appliance
be left
from
the
unattended
electric
when
outlet
plugged
immediately
in.
not
Always
after
using
same type
rated
retamping.
for
appliance
Replace
bulb
with
Do
not
tl.
reach
the
that
has fallen
into
water.
4,
Do
not place
or sink.
or store
Do not place
appliance
where
in or drop
into
it can fall
water
or be pulled
or other
into
a tub
disconnect,
not
unplug
Keep
fingers
appliance
2,
Always
use the
pull
3.
when
this
appliance
Use only
attachments
only
for
its intended
recommended
use as described
by the manufacturer
in this manual,
as contained
in
manual.
Never
working
water.
center
Keep
free from
cloth.
any opemng,
(spray)
products
to the off
on cord.
from
all
machine
proper
are being used or where
("0")
posmon,
then
remove
To unplug,
grasp the
plug,
not
operate
this
properly,
Return
appliance
if it
the appliance
for examination,
if it has a damaged
has been
repair,
dropped
to the
nearest
electrical
cord
or damaged,
authorized
or mechamcal
or plug, if it is not
or dropped
dealer
into
or service
adiustment.
the
moving
parts.
Special
care
is required
needle.
needle
plate.
The
wrong
plate
can
cause the
Switch
the
the
needle
needles.
or push fabric
it may deflect
ts necessary
blocked.
controller
sewing
area,
machine
such
bobbin,
or changing
Always
unplug
mentioned
while
the needle causing
covers,
off
It to break.
("O")
as threading
presser foot,
the
stitching.
sewing
lubricating,
in the instruction
when
needle,
making
changing
any adjustment
needle,
in
threading
and the like.
machine
or when
from
the
making
electrical
outlet
any
adjustments
other
manuaI_
is used by or near children,
Use this
this
Close attention
pulling
away
the sewing
Do not
15.
to be used as a toy,
aerosol
all controls
by
around
removing
allow
turn
13.
WAR N ! N G- To.0.uo0
.he.,..o,_o.o.
,,.o.
e,oo,.,_
.hoo.
Do not
into
opening
and foot
outlet,
Do not use bent
14.
1.
where
12.
liquid,
or injury to persons.
and loose
any object
air
needle to break.
Unplug
immediately.
Do
dust,
any
machine
cord.
10.
before
15 Watts.
3,
9.
or insert
operate
with
of the sewing
is being administered,
plug from
cleaning.
unplug
To
appliance
of lint,
5,
oxygen
DAN G ER- _oro.ooo
..o.,..ofo,oot.,c..oo.:
the
openings
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
when
TABLE
SECTION
1.
KNOW THE MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Avaialble ...............
Locate and Identify the Parts
..............
Identify the Accessories ......................
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
3
3_4
4
5_7
.......
5
5
• Setting Spool Pins ...........................
,=, Adjust the Presser Foot Lever ..................
o Thread Cutter
..........................
a Free Arm Sewing:
the Removable
Extension
Table
, Accessories Storage Box .................
= Change the Presser Foot ..................
Choose the Needle and Thread
..................
o
=
Length
7_8
7
8
Chart
the Machine
....
.......
Case ...........
8
9"_10
9
9_--10
10
Prepare the Top Thread
.....................
= Thread the Needle
........................
11_12
!1
o Pick Up the Bobbin Thread
..................
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
................
Reverse Stitch Control
........................
Stitch Selector
......................
12
13_14
14
15
Stitch Length Control
........................
Adjusting
Stretch Stitch Balance (Model
Starting To Sew ............................
12714
only)
_. _
SECTION
4.
SECTION
5.
PARTS LIST
22
22
23_30
23
24
25
25
26
27
28
2B
29
30
30
31_33
31
3t
32
32
33
33
34_35
PROBLEMS CHART
......................
36-'_37
CARE FOR THE MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb ......................
Cleaning the Machine
..................
o Clean the Feed Dogs ....................
- Clean the Shuttle Race
.....................
16
16
17
18_22
18
18
18
19
19
20_21
PERFORMANCE
What to Do When
LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches ...........................
o Straight Stitch ...........................
• Use the Seam Guides .......................
o Turn a Square Corner ....................
o Topstitching
............................
o Left Needle Position ......................
o Sew in a Zipper ......................
2
6
6
6
7
7
7
. , ,
To Change the Needle
......................
Check the Needle .......................
= Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch
Prepare the Bobbin
........................
= To Remove the Bobbin Case from
• Wind the Bobbin
........................
= Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin
3.
=, Use the Darning Plate .......................
• Darning ................................
Zigzag Stitches .........................
• Basic Zigzag .............................
• Satin Stitch ...........................
. Applique ........................
= Bar Tacking .......................
• Sew a Button
.........................
, Over,casting Stitch ......................
Three-Step Zigzag .......................
o LaceWork ...........................
o Blind Hemming .........................
o Shell Stitching ..........................
o Box Stitching .........................
Stretch Stitches (Model 12714 only)
............
= Stratght Stretch .......................
= Rick-Ruck Stretch ......................
o Smocking ...............................
o Overcast Stretch Stitching
................
• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ...........
= Elastic Stretch Stitch .......................
Buttonholes ..............................
FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine .......................
= Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
= Foot Control
Use .........................
SECTION
OF CONTENTS
38
38_39
38
39
Oiling the Machine
..........................
o Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and Under
Arm Cover Plate ..........................
= Oil the Underside
........................
40
........................................
41
40
40
SECTION
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available
A
full
nearest
line
of
Sears
sewing
retail
cabinets
store
or
is available
through
Locate and identify
at
our
1.
KNOW THE MACHINE
the Parts
Thread spool pin (t Pc.)
For Model 385-! 1607
your
general
catalog.
Another
your
option
Kenmore
. buy
goes
a Carrying
anywhere,
can
Case
be
. . . then
stored
any-
where.
Take-up
Lever
Bobbin
Winding
Upper
Tension
Thread
Guide
Disc
Thread
Bobbin
Spool
Pins
Winding
Spindle
Length
Control
Stitch
Control
\
Top
Thread
Tension
Control
Stitch
Face Cover
Thread
.......
Plate
Reverse
Cutter
J
Needle
Plate
:::,:
:
:
Stitch
Shuttle
E×tension
(Accessory
Table
storage
Selector
Cover
box)
3
SECTION
1.
KNOW-EHE
MACHINE
Identify the Accessories
Arm
Cover
Plate
Carrying
\
Hand
Handle
_'_
Wheel
B_u[tonhote
opener
Bobbin
Presser
Auto
Clutch
Foot
Lever
Knob
_Large
scr.ew driver
Need [e set
Light and
Power Switch
_. .....
Free Arm
Sliding
buttonhole
Darning
foot
/
p_
Plug Connector
Nomenclature
Plate
Zipper
Lint
Foot
Needle
Clamp
foot
brush
Controi
Screw
Small
screw driver
SatinstitChfoot
_
Presser
4
Foot
)_
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine
Plug in the Machine
and Switch
=
on the Power
Foot Control
Use
¢-
J
light
/
Foot control
Power __
Plug
4.
connector
/
Machine
plug
Push
the light
on the power
and power
and sewing
switch
to turn
light.
To
SAFETY
Before
inserting
machine,
be
the
sure
plug
the
into
power
Your
your
FEATURE:
sw_tch
_s
OFF
1.
Check
Volt
2.
Insert
plug
your
outlet
to
be sure it is a110to120
plug
as shown.
Into
the
It will
three-prong
only
fit
way.
3.
Insert
the power
interrupted
or
light/power
switch
stop
control
you
increase
speed,
the ball of your
not
operate
_s turned
sewing,
to
unless
on,
turn
prevent
the
If you are
off
the
injury
to
To
regulates
supply
plug into
the outlet.
one
the
speed
at
sew.
decrease
gently
press down
with
foot.
speed,
release
your
foot
The
foot
control
is sensitive
will
increase
pres-
sure slightly.
NOTE:
sewing
machine
connector,
will
switch
children.
AC outlet.
the
machme
tight/power
foot
which
J
NOTE:
The
or
speed
Practice
on
regulate
your
your
decrease
and
your
immediately+
a scrap
sewing
taste and needs,
of
fabric
to
speed
to
SECTION
o
Setting
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
Spoo! Pin
-
FOR SEWING
Adjust
the Presser Foot
Thread
Lever
Normal
up
position
Cutter
cutter
up
posH_on
i:i ii
Presser toot
lever
J
The
spool
spoob
pins
of thread
are
when
used
for
feeding
holding
thread
the
to the
machine.
Presser
up the spool
pins.
Push down
Model
11607
has one spool
pin,
Lever
can raise it about
up position
to
for storage.
Foot
ralses
and
lowers
your
presser foot.
You
To use, pull
NOTE:
The
help
foot,
you
1/4"
for easy removal
place
heavy
higher
than
the normal
of the presser foot
fabrics
under
or
the presser
You
don't
need a parr of scissors
thread
after
handy
thread
Pull
before
the
you
sewing.
to cut the
Just
use the
several
inches
cutter.
threads
starting
finish
to
lengthen
the next
seam.
SECTION
2.
Free-Arm
Extension
Sewing:
Table
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Choose the Needle and Thread
Set Up the Machine (Continued)
o
PREPARE
o
the Removable
Accessory
Storage Box
o
Change
= To Changethe Needle
the Presser Foot
f
\
Needle clamp screw
Fiat
side
.......
To Remove
the Extension
(for free-arm
1.
2.
Grip
the
your
as shown.
Pull gently
to the
will
To Attach
The
index
finger
left.
The extension
Extension
Table
the
tab
the
accessory
open toward
Sewing
accessoMes
located
storage
you.
are
in the box.
_se the correct
the stitch
conveni-
To
change
feet,
the
pin
into
thetr
your
thumb
gently
snap in,
and
index
finger,
the
raise the
highest
varfous
presser
position
by
presser foot
lever.
Loosen
presser
Tighten
large
With
presser foot
certain
for
you wish to sew.
the
choose
insert from
and
catches,
2.
of
screw,
sewing)
Insert
lid
box lifts
ently
snap out.
the
(for fiat-bed
1.
tabJe with
and thumb,
table
Table
sewtng)
away
from
you
J
NOTE:
the
foot
thumb
2.
foot,
using
driver
to
_s secure.
the
make
needle
Loosen
to
the
its
highest
hand
wheel
you,
the
needle
it toward
Remove
bar
by turning
the
clamp
screw
by
you,
needle
by pulilng
it down-
ward.
3.
screw
the foot
1,
turning
the proper
screw
toward
bar to its
lifting
the
position
presser
the bottom.
the
Raise
Insert
the
new
clamp
with
the
needle
flat
into
the
side away
needle
from
you.
4.
Push the needle up as far as it will go,
5.
Tighten
with
the
the
accessory
needle
large
box.
cfamp
screwdriver
screw
from
firmly
the
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
o
I .........
.....................
Your
J
choice
of
needle
and
sewing.
in the needle envelope,
needles:
Blue (11 )
thread
depends
you will
find
for
.........
for
you
are
color-coded
fabrics.
medium
weight
PurpLe (16}
fabric
or
medium-heavy
fabrics.
medium-heavy
and decorative
fabrics.
hole
weight
Lightweight:
Batiste, Dimity,
Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta,
Voile,
Organdy
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
11-ORANGE
needle
on these
has a larger
for thtcker
topstitchmg
THREAD
RECOMMENDED
STITCH
LENGTH
SETTING
SIZE
Poryester
Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized
Cotton
Silk A
2
(12 stitches per
inch)
Medium
Weight:
Cotton,
Cotton
Blend,
Percate, Gingham,
Shantung,
Pique,
Seersucker,
Satin, Knit,
Suit ings, Linen,
Wool Crepe, Leather
14-RED
50 Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester
Co re/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
2--2,5
(10-t2
stitches
per inch)
Medium
Heavy Weight:
Corduroy,
Demm, Wool,
Saifcloth,
Wool Flannel,
Gabardine,
Velvet,
Leather
14-RED
or
16-PURPLE
50 Mercerized
Cotton
Mercerized
Heaw-Duty
Polyester Core!Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
2--3
(8-t0 stitches
per mch}
Heavy We=ght:
Coating,
Upholstery
Cotton
Duck, Heavy
Twills,
Canvas
18-GREEN
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
3
{8 stitches
mch)
Decorative
top-stitching
on alt types of fabric
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
Buttonhole
Twist
(Use as top thread
3--4
(6-8 stitches
per mch)
Stretch Fabrsc:
Polyester
Double Knit,
Nylon Tricot,
Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Ci re Tricot
ll-BLUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
Polyester Co relCotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized
Cotton
fabrics
topstitchmg
(This
thread
FAB R IC
fabrics.
for lightweight
Orange (1 1) ........
Red (14) ...........
the
the following
for stretch
.........
on
Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
thread.)
Green
(18)
........
for
heavy
decorative
weight
fabrics
and
on
these
top-stitching
fabrics.
Replacement
Kenmore
needles
are available
at your
nearest
Sears
store.
o
Check
the Needle
1.
Look
2.
A
damaged
knits,
Always
or blunt
needle
point.
can cause
fine silks and silk-like
buy a good
be strong,
8
for barbed
smooth
quality
thread.
and consistent
permanent
snags
or
runs
fabrics.
It should
in thickness.
resist tangling
and
tn
only}
per
2--2.5
(10-12 stitches
per mch}
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Prepare the Bobbin
=
To Remove
the Bobbin
Case from the Machine
= Wind
the Bobbin
J
Release
the
the
machine
teft.
Open
extension
by
the
table
pulling
shuttle
puliing
down the
the ]eft
side of the cover,
Raise
needle
by rotating
to
it to
the
cover
by
embossed
its htghest
hand wheel
from
part on
position
toward
you.
To
remove
tie, pull
Pull
open
bobbin
shuttie,
bobbin
case from
shut-
latch
of bobbin
case.
case
stra{ght
out
of
the
hand
wheel
toward
you to stop the needle from
while
the
turning
knob
bobb]n.
inside
by
clutch
moving
Remove
clutch
you
wind
the
SECTION
=
Wind
2.
PREPARE
the Bobbin
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
(Continued)
7
Draw
bobbin
thread
from
wmding
spool
tension
through
disc as shown.
Pull
end
bobbin
of
thread
through
hole
Place
m
bobbin
spindle
as shown,
from
the
bobbin
until
o
Insert the Bobbin
Place
making
wise
bobbin
10
bobbin
in
bobbin
sure thread
and
is
as shown.
into
top
winding
it clicks.
thread,
start
slightly
filled,
bobbin
end
of
of
the
spmdte
machine.
to
the
onto
When
Push
coming
bobbin.
Holding
Wind thread
winding
thread
Push
left
right
end
bobbin
of
is
bobbin
until
winder
winding
stops.
spindle
and clip
thread,
Turn
clutch
knob
away
while
holding
hand
wheel
sewing
Remove
to
the
bobbin.
from
for
you
normat
operation.
stop off end of thread.
the Bobbin Case
case
feeds clock-
coming
onto
with
from
Putt thread
as shown,
through
stot of case
Pull
spring
thread
under
and through
as shown
above.
inches of thread
tension
the opening
Pull 3 to 4
from
bobbin.
Holding
case
latch.
Into
tatch
open,
shuttle
and
position
release
Case should lock into
when latch ts released,
place
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Prepare the Top Thread
o
Thread
the Needle
Raise take-up
lever to its highest
Raise presser
foot
Place spool
The numbered
steps
above
follow
the numbers
on spool
1.
Draw
thread
2.
While
holding
check
spring
3.
Firmly
4.
Draw
5.
Thread
position
by turning
hand wheel
toward
you.
lever.
pin as shown,
into
thread
thread
with
thread
guide using
near spool,
both
draw
coming
from
the back
of the spool,
hands.
thread
down
into
the
tension
right
to left.
bar thread
guide.
area
and then
around
the
holder.
draw thread
up and through
take-up
lever from
on the illustratmons.
Dotted
loops
lines
and then
show
places
is pulled
tight.
where
the
thread
down
and slip tt into
left side needle
thread
NOTE:
needle from
You may want
front
to back.
to cut the end of thread
with
sharp
scissors for easier needle
threading.
11
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Pick Up the Bobbin Thread
T=
Raise
presser
thread
loosely
handwheet
foot
lever,
Hold
in left hand
toward
top
2.
and rotate
Bring
bobbin
thread
up
top thread.
you one complete
pick up bobbin
1.
is needle threaded
2.
ts thread
3.
Are 3 to 4 mches
4.
Is thread
5,
Is bobbin
6.
Is the machine
12
tangled
from
from
front
around
steps given
to back?
coming
from
the shuttle?
tangled?
installed
threaded
by totfowing
needle?
of thread
shuttle
properly
thread
in the bobbin
according
pulling
3,
Pull
both
back
of
threads
the
to 6 inches
turn.
If you cannot
by
case?
to the instructions?
above, then check:
under
presser
foot,
of thread
clear.
and
to the
leaving
4
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
Choose
Top side of fabric
the Correct
The best tension
Settlngmark
Loosen
will
depend
on;
the stiffness
and thickness
the number
of fabric
the type
f
Tension:
of the fabric
Payers
of stitch
Top
The top thread
is too loose.
The top thread
_s too hght
Tighten
_Bobbin
thread
....................
For Straight
The
ideai
fabric,
If you
When
o7O,
Stitch
straight
as shown
look
gaps, that
J
stitch
above,
at the
each stitch
adjusting
will
have threads
magnified
stitch,
front
is smooth
top thread
locked
between
the
two
layers
of
The top thread
appears
to show detail.
and back,
you
will
notice
that
there
on
The bobbin thread
appears on the
upper surtace of the
fabric,
the
underside of the
fabric.
are no
and even.
tension,
the higher
the number,
the tighter
the top
thread,
Tension
is too loose:
The top
thread
shows through
bottom
of the fabric. The bottom
of the stitch
will
feel bumpy.
Tension
the
side
The
the
is too tight:
bobbin
top
the stitch
thread
will
of the fabric.
wilt
come through
The top
side of
feel bumpy.
13
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Reverse Stitch Control
For Zigzag Stitch
In a correct
of
fabric
below
zigzag
and
for the
the
stitch,
top
correct
the
bobbin
threads
will
threads
show
appearance.
will
slightly
To match
not show on the top
on
this
the bottom
appearance,
adjust
side.
the
side
See
top
tension.
Top
tension
Too
Top
Tight
tension
Too
Loose
f
f
Just Right
_
r
k_
To
Top
side
of Fabric
Top
s_de of Fabric
Top side of Fabric
J
reverse
Bottom
14
side of Fabric
Bottom
s_de of Fabric
Bottom
side of Fabric
Tight:
Too
Loose:
Just Right:
Corner
ot
each
zigzag
will
puff
together
on
the
top side of fabrics,
--
The
top
thread
will
loop through
bottom
side
ot
fabric
and will be
pulled
almost
together.
Minimize
the
amount
ot top thread visible on
the
bottom
side
ot
fabric
without
causing
excessive
puckering
or
causing
the
bobbin
thread
to show on the
top s_de.
Results vary
with fabric,
thread and
sewing conditions.
hold
down
sewi ng.
Release
Too
stitch,
to
sew
torward
again.
this
control
during
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Stitch Selector
Model
Model 12714
11607
Sett ing mark
Set_ing mark
S
/
/
........
Stitch
_l_--_t
/
i
+
_.\\=_
\
/
J
2
,v
The
stitch
regu}ar
se}ector
control
not
only
The different
types
of stitches
are designated
Straight,
Zigzag
end Utility
Stitches
Stretch
Stitches
are brown,
(Modef
ButtonhoLe
NOTE:
determines
the
stitch
you
select,
but
a|so regulates
the
stitch
width
for
zigzag.
Settings
To avoid
by color,
are red.
12714
onty)
are btue.
needle or fabric
damage,
be sure your
needle
is up and out of fabric
when
adjustingthls
control.
15
SECTION2.
PREPARETHE MACHINEFORSEWING
Stitch LengthControl
AdjustingStretchStitch
O
1
2
3
Balance (Model 12714 only)
4
!
l
I
i11"'_
i
L"'- l
!
it I vm._
jso,,i.0
I/l
,
'}'Stitch Length
f
I
°_i-_-T,-ii_l
:
//
1
Stitch Length
\
.......
fi
"'
"'%
"
....
z €_
l
Stitch Length
Control
............................................
(Model 127141
(Model
To
11607)
select
Stretch
J
Stitches,
set
this
control
at T
position.
The stitch
The higher
"0"
length
control
the number,
regulates
the length
the longer
of stich.
In stretch
the sttch,
stitch
sewing,
be in the detent
position
for
means no feed,
most
used,
Depending
upon
your
buttonhole
stitch
density
fabric
within
or
your
the blue
own
preference
buttonhole
in
buttonholes,
range on the stitch
you
length
may
control.
alter
the
forward
materials.
you
may
stitches
need
Length
between
Depending
to
upon
adjust
of stretch
control
wsth
should
L (vposition)
the type
this
sewing
Control
S and
of fabric
to
match
reverse motion
stitches,
To
shorten
toward
"S"
stretch
stitches,
To lengthen,
L
16
Stitch
-
turn
the
turn
toward
T
-
S
control
"L"
slightiy
SECTION2.
PREPARETHEMACHINEFORSEWING
StartingTo Sew
Now
that
Kenmore
t.
you
are familiar
with
sew|ng machine.
Inspect
afraid
the needle,
to change
the controls
Below
tt should
your
on your
are some good
be straight,
needle
frequently.
machine
habits
properly
Many
and with
to follow
the accessories
each time
set and sharp
of the new fabrics
you sit down
on the
point.
provided
It should
made of synthetic
for the machine,
you are ready
to start to sew with
your
new
to sew:
be the correct
blends
tend to dull
size for the fabric
the needles
more
and thread
easily
being used. Do not
than fabrics
be
made of natural
fibers,
2.
Before
placing
during
the sewing
the material
on the machine,
ot the first
3 or 4 stitches
see that
3.
Test the machine
stitch on a scrap
tension suitable to the fabric.
of the fabric
4.
Fabric
presser
should
seam marking
be placed
under
on the needle
5.
Run the machine
6.
Fasten
7.
Always
8.
Guide
9.
When turning
at a slow
the
plate when
finish
sewing
the fabric
sewing
each seam with
gently
the hand
foot
making
even speed. The more
each seam by back tacking
with
wheel
your
the ends of the threads
you
about
4 inches to the rear of the machine.
with
plan to use, The fabric
should
the bulk
of the material
to the left of the needle
put on the foot
control,
a simple
Hold
on to threads
pressure
a few stitches
hand in front
always
be double
thickness.
Adiust
the machine
and the right
for the
edge of the material
length
placed
of stitch
and
on the 5/8"
seam.
you
the faster
the machine
will
sew.
in reverse.
the needle at its highest
manually,
have been drawn
of the seam.
point.
of the needle.
Never
turn
you.
it toward
pull
or hold
the fabric
in such a way that
the normal
feeding
is altered.
17
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches
Straight
Stitch
= Use the Seam Guides
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch selector
|
t
I
(Model 12714)
Cornering
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
7"he seam
(Model 116071
Stitch length
controf red
t.
zone
2.
Raise the presser foot.
Raise
the
needle
7.
to
its
3.
Straight foot
Place
to
Zigzag foot
the
edge of
a stitching
needle
the fabric
guide
plate
line
(5/8"
is
the
to reverse
may
to lock the stitch.
8.
Raise the presser foot
the fabric,
9.
Cut the threads.
next
on
the end of the seam, you
want
highest
position.
At
and remove
are
there
width.
Guide
guides on the needle plate
to
he]p
you
measure
The lines are t/8"
the 5/8"
and 7/8"
= Turn
a Square Corner
To turn
a square
seam
apart,
with
lines marked.
most
common).
4.
Draw
the
threads
back and lower
,,
,J
5,
6,
Press the foot
towards
control,
Hold
the
fabric
loosely
guide
it
along
the
that
and gently
guide
line, so
it feeds naturally,
Do not
pull
the
the presser foot.
force
the fabric
........
fabric
or try
to
1.
it tight.
stitching
and
lower
by
turning
hand
toward
you
when
the fabric
facing
you
Raise
Lower
stitching
lines
guide,
the
fabric
the 5/8"
18
from
needle
the
3,
J
5/8"
the
edge:
Stop
cornering
2.
,,,
corner
up
with
the
wheel
edge
the
as shown,
presser
foot
and
turn
to
the
edge
with
foot
and begin
line
seam guide.
the
presser
m the new direction.
SECTION
o Topstitching
o
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Left Needle Position
f
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch selector
Stitch selector
I
(Model 12714)
_Model 127141
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
I _i_ t
l_j
(Model 11607)
(Model 11607)
Here's How
Stitch length
control red
t.
:zone
2.
Lower
the presser
Keep the
to
the
edge of
foot.
the fabric
right
edge of
guide
the fabric
the
next
presser
foot.
Straight
toot
Zigzag
foot
3.
Evenly
edge
to
topstitching
produce
3/8'"
along
from
©
this
an even row
of
the edge.
J
The Stitch
Topstitching
your
Use
and Its Uses
emphasizes
garment
and
keeps
the
lines
seams
of
two
outer
sults
rows
of
or
blouses
topstitching
edges of cuffs,
with
Needle
Position
while
topstitching
stitching
difficult
NOTE:
Use
only
foot
for
for
more
or
edge
fabrics.
and
edges flat and crisp.
Accent
Left
control
one
around
or
zigzag
presser
Left
Needle
Sewing.
the
lapels or collars,
19
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
= Sew in a Zipper
Fabric Preparation:
Set the Machine
Put
the
gether
per
right
and
s_des of
sew to
opening.
the
fabric
to-
length
the
zipper
at "4"
Stitch selector
Zipper
H!8")
teeth
the end of the zip-
Use
the
reverse
to
Iock
the stitches.
Sew
Stitch
opening
and
top
with
thread
Zipper
I
I
I
stitch
tape
(Model 127141
tension
at "3",
Top thread tension
control 3 to 6
ot
open_ng
(Model 11607)
Stitch length
control 2
To Sew:
1.
Fold
4,
back
the left seam allowance
as shown,
Right side
ot fabric
Zipper foot
2.
edge ot fabric
under
ance to form
3.
Top
Turn
the
right
a 1/8"
seam allow-
z_pper teeth
t/8"
and pin in place.
next
Lower
side
fold.
Place the
fold
5.
To sew the left side of the zipper,
set the zipper foot on the left side
of the needle.
the zipper
at the
so that
to the
the fold
per
the
tape
Lower
on the right
the
to
zipper
the fotd
tape,
Sew through
slider
7.
of
the needle pierces
and the zipper
6.
foot
bottom
point
and the Zipwhere
the
needle
to hold the fab-
ric and raise the presser foot,
2O
the
begins.
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
!iiii
:,i:: ::,,R!ghts,de,
J
J
8.
Open the z_pper.
9.
Lower
10.
the presser
foot
and stitch
Close
the
fabric
right
zlpper
and
turn
the
11.
side up.
the rest of the seam.
12.
To sew the
right
per,
set
right
side of the needle.
Stitch
the
side of
across
zipper
and
the zip-
foot
on
the
the
INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
AND
I
CORDING
INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through
the center hole ot the toot and one groove ot
the toot is riding on the teeth of the z_pper as
shown, Follow the zipper manufacturer's rest*
ructions. After zipper has been inserted, fimsh
sewing seam by shifting
toot to side poslt_on
sewing through side notch.
Turn
the
bot-
and
foot
along
guide
the
teeth,
as shown.
Stitch
through
continue
the
to
z_pper
Lower
fabric
and
the
Remove
open
17.
Lower
of
the
2" from
the top of the
needle
into
the
fabric
and raise the presser foot.
16.
corner
Stop about
zipper.
15.
below
tom of the zipper.
13.
t4.
the
basting
stitches
and
the zipper.
the
foot
and stitch
the seam. Make
the rest
sure the fold
is
eyeD.
z_pper tape.
CORDING
Foot can also be used to make cording
for slipcovers etc, Cover a cord with
a str_p of b_as
fabric and sew as shown,
NOTE:
Use "Low Bar Sewing
(6757}
for '*invisible
which can be obtained
Machine ZtPPER
FOOT'"
zipper"
and *'cording",
at any Sears retail store.
2!
SECTION
o
f
3.
LEARN
Use the Darning
THE STITCHES
Plate
o
Darning
(-
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch selector
,
I
(Model 127141
Top thread tension
control I to 4
' [_
J
Sometimes
when
to control
the fabric
The Darning
so that
you
sew, you
youself.
Plate covers
NOTE:
Darning
__
the feed dogs
they do not touch
To Put on the
want
hofes in the
Darning
match
Plate
in the needle plate.
the
darning
plate,
are slightly
to
2.
Darning plate
the
darning
Remove
plate
presser
between
the
holes
Put
on
the
needle
plate
(see p. 22).
No presser
toot
Plate:
Here's How
1.
the fabric.
The rectangular
holes
Stitch length
control any number
(Model
11607)to
(not
necessary
adjust)
foot
and
embroidery
stretch
hoops
fabric
with
hole
centered.
In
these
3,
the left
Draw
the
fabric
by holding
one
of center.
bobbin
stitch
at
thread
the
the
up
top
spot
through
thread
where
the
and taking
you
wEsh to
start darning.
1.
Position
the
the 3 pins
darning
plate
with
4.
on the bottom.
Lower
the
presser
bar and
sew
at
a slow
speed,
2.
Fit the
darning
needle
plate
will
show
plate
holes.
Use the
ways:
darning
Darning
Button
plate pins into
holes.
the
The feed dogs
through
the
5.
in the
darning
Turn
the
fabric
layer of stitching
following
NOTE:
(P, 22}
Sewing
the fabric
you have covered
6.
plate
Move
If
your
damaged,
(P, 266)
under
7.
22
When
plate.
back
and forth
the darning
a half
turn
slowly
and sew another
over the first
fabric
is
use a separate
layer.
thm
darning,
or
badly
piece of fabric
the hole to reinforce
you finish
until
area.
remove
it.
the darning
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches
o
Basic Zigzag
f-
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
selector
(Model 12714)
Top thread tension
control
2: to 5
IModel 116071
Stitch tength
control red
Here's
How
There
are many
ZO_8
Consult
Satin
Zigzag foot
the specific
Stitch
Applique
Button
Three-step
Rick-rack
and Its Uses
Overcast
The
zigzag
common
your
stitch
machine.
for sewing
ruing,
is one
and most versatile
ing.
It
trims,
can
the
also
mending
be used
or as a decorative
p. 25
p. 2__66
p. 2_77
zigzag p, 2__88
stretch
stretch
p, 3_
p. 32
p. 33
on
hem-
and
to
Serging
directions.
stitch
buttonholes,
appliques
most
stitches
It can be a utility
buttons,
overcasting,
with
of
for detailed
p. 25
Sewing
Overcasting
variations
p. 2__4
Work
Bar Tacking
The Stltch
ways to sew a zigzag stitch.
darn-
decorate
and cut-out
work
stitch.
23
SECTION3.
LEARNTHESTITCHES
= Satin Stitch
Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch
Close
width
:
to 0
Stitch selector
(Model 12714)
Top thread tension
control t to 4
I
_#_{
L___r
;>
Stitch
length :
(Model 11607)
>
>
Stitch length
control 0.5 to I
/
Satin stitch foot
The Stitch
The Satin
and Its Uses
stitch
used decorative
is a versatile
stitch,
be used to overcast
ample,
blankets,
but
and often
it can also
a raw edge (for exlinens,
tablecloths
and napkins).
The Satin
in applique.
24
stitch
is especially
attractLve
Here's How
Once your machine
is set up to stitch,
you may want to experiment
on a scrap of
the fabric you are planning
to use. Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light
weight fa brics.
SECTION
Zigzag
o
Stitches
3,
LEARN
THE STITCHES
(Continued)
o
Applique
Bar Tacking
f
Set
the
Set
Machine
Stitch
Stitch
(Model
Top
control
thread
t
7
selector
Machine
Stitch
.... !ii!iiii i
127141
Top
tension
L_J
to 4
the
thread
control
t to
tension
length
0,5 to
11607)
t
Baste
(or
joiner)
applique
Stitch
sure
Zigzag
foot
fuse
around
the
with
iron-on
pieces
on
the
needle
tails
along
sewing
down
foot
into
corners,
the fabric.
and pivot
the
:'< t =: I
J
_#l
(Modal
t 1607)
Stitch
control
length
0.5 to
This
stitch
is similar
satin
stitch
and
making
points
of
pockets
and straps on lingerie,
the
outer
Satin
lower
127141
_:-,:4 :::,;,:t:=:-
fabric.
edge of the applique,
When
(Model
t=_
L__J
fabric
the
applique
selector
[
4
J
Stitch
control
(Modal
Stitch
stitch
foot
t
strain
to
is used
such
a very
to
short
reinforce
as corners
or
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
the needle
Raise the presser
fabric
to the
right
or lefto
25
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
= Sew a Button
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch selector
(Mo6e! 12714)
Top thread tension
contro_ I to 4
(Model 116071
Stitch length control
any number {not
necessary to adjust)
Use the darning
p_ate for button
1.
Set the stitch
2,
Align
selector
sewing
at"
'
(see p. 22).
To
"
Zigzag foot
the
both
holes
hote of the button
Darnrag
of
just
the
below
with
the needle
the slot of the foot
and place the _eft
point.
Lower
the foot
and turn
comes just above the right
4,
Sew about
five
5.
Set the stitch
stitches
selector
the
stitch
selector
to zigzag
until
the needle
point
hole of the button.
ci_
"agmn
shank,
needle
thread
down
hole in the
button
and wind
and sew a few
Draw
the
and knot_
and raise needle,
at "
the
leaving a 20 cm (8")
cut
tail,
through
the
BrEng
the
it around
the shank.
piate
3.
26
button
strengthen
threads
stitches
to lock thread.
thread
to
the
bottom
side
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
ZigzagStitches(Continued)
o
Overcasting
Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch selector
fMode_ 12714)
Top thread tension
control
I to
I
_t_
4
(Modal 11607)
Stitch length
control t to 2
Helptut
Start
Hints
overcasting
raw corner
right
Zigzag foot
up
at the
and
about
of your
1/8"
seam_
instde the
If you start
edge, the fabric
the
stitches
will
wiIl bunch
become
tangled.
The
This
Stitch
and
zigzag
garment
lts Uses
variation
Is very
construction
raw edges of any sewing
and
useful
in
m finishing
proiect,
27
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
e
Three-Step
Zigzag
Lace Work
Set the Machine
Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch
selector
Stitch
Stitch
se]ector
(Model
127141
(Model
116071
i
(Model 127141
Top thread tension
control ! to 4
I
:_
(Model
I
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
116071
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
Stitch length
control 1
Seam Finishing
Place the fabric
so that
the
Zigzag foot
right
under
the edge wilt
the presser foot
be slightly
reside
hand side of the presser foot.
Zigzag foot
Guide
the
work
so
the
right
hand
stitches
fall
at the edge of the fabric.
Lace
to
The Stitch
and tts Uses
The three-step
zigzag
zigzag and straight
the
three-step
would
has
flatter
zigzag
use the
more
than
ly useful
basic
strength,
a regular
The three-step
is a combination
stitch.
zigzag
You
everywhere
zigzag
you
stitch,
elasticity,
It
and
zigzag.
stitch
is especial-
mending
-
sewing
patches
smoothly
securely.
and
Mending
Position
repairing
straight
finishing
seams.
tears.
the
tear
that the stitching
under
the
needle
so
will catch both sides.
a fanciful,
and
feminine
lingerie°
and
pillows
become
when
tr_mmed
w{th
Turn
raw edge of fabric
I/2"
Place
stitch
using stretch
Trim
=s
for:
-
28
may use
adds
blouses
Iinens
more
elegan[
under
at least
lace.
lace underneath
excess fabric
touch
Table
blind
and
hem stitch.
close to st=tchmg.
top-
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Blind Hemming
1/4"'
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
selector
Ligh
Weight
Fabric
(Model 12714)
(Regular}
114"
Top thread tension
contro_
l to 4
(ModeI 11607)
Heavy
Weight
Fabric
Stitch length
control / to 3
There
are two
w_der and will
1,
Fimsh
2.
Measure,
NOTE:
biind
hem stttches
"gwe"
the raw edge of your
turn
For light
on your
and is used for kmt
up your
wmght
machine.
The regular
and stretch
blind
hem _sused for woven
fabrics,
The stretch
blind
hem is
fabrics.
hem any way you desired.
(See Overcasting,
p. 27)
hem and p_n.
fabrics,
you
may need a double
fold.
f
Set
the
Stitch
Machine
Stitch selector
3,
Fold
the material
4.
Place garment
should
5.
(Stretch)
Top thread tension
control I to 4
(Modet 12714)
After
NOTE:
under
just catch
hemming,
The blind
(wrong
side out) on the edge to be stitched,
presser foot
the fold
press both
hem stttch
in such a manner
that
as shown,
straight
stitches
leaving
wiil
!/4"
of the fimshed
be sewn on extended
hem edge showing.
edge.
The zigzag stitch
of the garment.
sides of the finished
also can be used for
hem.
The top
Lace Work.
side of the garment
will
show oniy
the blind
stitches.
(See p. 28)
CJ
Stitch length
(Model 1 t607)
control 1 to 3
2g
SECTION3.
o
LEARNTHESTITCHES
Shell Stitching
Box Stitching
Set
the
Set the Machine
Machine
Stitch
Stitch
Stitch
selector
Stitch selector
(Mo
(Model 127t4}
Top thread tension
control 3 to g
_-_
14)
Top thread tension
control ! to 4
L__J
Here's How
Stitch length
controt _ to 2
(Model 11607)
1.
Stitch length
control
1
For best effect:
Use this
stitch
to
join
heavy
weight
interlining.
--
set the
stitch
length
as you
(Mode!
--
Zigzag foot
you may need to tighten
top
-
thread
altow
clear
fabric
2.
The
Stitch
The Shell
and
Its Uses
Stitch
is formed
by sewing
hem over folded
fabric.
rows
of
are called
stitching
a
Several
shell
tucks.
Shelf
stitching
can
be used
to
finish
hems, sleeve and neck openings.
Shell
tucking
scalloped
lingerte,
30
can
tucks
be used
on
to
blouses
create
and
You
can
soft silky
tension
the
when
sew rows
sew Shell
wovens
the
sfightly.
needle
the folded
space the rows
blind
shell
if you
11_07)
Overlap
des_re.
to
just
edge of the
it zigzags.
of shell stitches,
1/2"
Stitch
apart.
on knits
m any direction.
or
two
use this stitch
Zigzag foot
raw
edges together
to join
them.
and
SECTION
Stretch
Stitches
Straight
(Model
Stretch
(Model
12714
Stitch
LEARN
only)
e
Rick-Rack Stretch (Model 12714 only)
Set the Machine
selector
Stitch
III
III
Ill"
Stitch selector
°!,
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch length
control brown
stretch stitch
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
positton
Stitch length
control brown
stretch stitch
position
The Stitch
k__J
Straight toot
This
Zigzag foot
stitch
top stitch
The
stretch
actually
sewn,
and lts Uses
This
stitch
is the
the
straight
stitch,
ed for knits
and stretch
Stretch
stitch
fabrics
as
curved
that
will
can
well.
seams
lie. children's
of
develop-
but
used
It
works
on
a great
any
on
other
well
on
garments
ts
and
(sometimes
action"
give
fabrics.
be
and
receive
variation
especially
stitch
stretch
forward
stretch
and Its Uses
Sew on stretch
you might
The Stitch
THE STITCHES
12714 only)
Set the Machine
StLtch
3.
when
instead
can also
of
back
the
so
fabric
breaking.
in any area that
can be used as a decorative
as wel!.
not
is being
stttched
called
stitch),
does
as it
fabrics
use a zigzag stitch.
tn
a
motion
a
"reverse-
that
it
will
stretches
This stitch
be used for topstitching
on all fabrics.
dea! of strain
clothes).
31
SECTION
3.
°
(Model
Smocking
LEARN
12714
THE STITCHES
only)
e
Overcast
Stretch
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitching
(Model
12714
only)
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Stitch
Stitch selector
Top thread tens=on
control t to 4
Stitch length
control brown
stretch stitch
E
_,
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Stitch length control
brown stretch stitch
position
r
J
7
=_
Here's
position
[__J
Place
the
Zigzag foot
How
the
LEFT
Stitch
raw edge
stitch
length
at
"4",
stitching
lines
3/8"
apart
across the area to be smocked.
Knot
the
the
gathers
the
threads
bobbin
evenly.
other
stttch
Pull out
NOTE:
between
easier.
the
seam with
top
can
be used for
an overcast
finish.
is formed
and
operation.
It
stitches.
you
are making
sw=mwear,
at
and
other
stretch.
stitches.
make
stitch
one
the
to
This
the
thread
gathering
sewing
a
be
fabric
trim
the fabric
edge.
to allow
seam
a 5/8"
allowance
in
that
ski
pants
requEre
edges of older
overcast
to
garments
prevent
further
raveling,
NOTE:
finished
can be used when
garments
Raw or worn
can
decorative
Sew
gathering
Pull
,,'
and Its Uses
seam
threads
the
The Stitch
The
the
the gathering
Loosen
one edge,
and distribute
Secure
end,
tension
32
along
threads
then
to
after.
sew
,,
straight
fabrfc
as shown.
of the outside
Or, place your
seam,
the
the
so the needle pierces
just short
With
of
of the needle
Use
a blue
needle,
stretch
which
prevents skipped
fabric
effectively
stitches.
SECTION 3.
e
Serging
or Pine Leaf Stretch
Stitching
Set the Machine
Stitch
(Model
12714
only)
=
Elastic Stretch
7
Stitch
Stitch
(Model
12714
LEARNTHESTITCHES
only)
Set the Machine
selector
Stitch
Stitch selector
N
Top thread tension
control t to 4
Stitch length
control brown
stretch stitch
Top thread tension
control I to 4
Stitch length
control brown
stretch stitch
pos}t_on
Here*s How
position
Place
foot
the
fabric
so that
under
the
the
stitches
presser
are made
over the edge.
Zigzag foot
Or, place
seam,
your
then
fabrtc
trim
to allow
seam
a 5/8"
allowance
after.
NOTE:
The Stitch
Use
narrow
press
seams
this
stitch
when
seam that
open
on
heavyweight
want
and Its Uses
flat.
It
kmts
or
woven
a narrow
for making
is ideal
on
fabrics
seam.
elastic
you
you do not
swim
It
want
a
need to
for
1/4"
medium
to
where
you
When
using
fabric,
use a blue
stretch
fabric
needle
effectively
skipped
knit
stretch
:?:
_{?;;h
:: .
_:_:;........
which
prevents
stitches,
;iU::>?_
,!!,
Choose
this
stitch
to
attach
elastic to
garments.
1.
Mark
the elastic
into
to
quarters
the
center
and
match
these
front,
center
back and side seams.
Place
the
middle
of
the
elastic
under
the
center
of
the
presser
Js also great
wear,
,
foot
sure
and stitch
the
fabric
into
place,
making
is evenly
distri-
buted.
33
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Buttonholes
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch selector
Top thread tension
control t to 5
Stitch length control
I.
a.
Carefully
mark
_ength on your
b. Change
the
buttonhole
to the sliding
foot
c.
insert
foot
buttonhole
b.
the
with
mg runmng
garment
the
under
buttonhole
toward
the
so that
foot.
Sliding buttonhole
2, a. Move
garment.
the
c.
NOTE:
meets the start mark
Line
up
foot
wtth
the
the Stitch
Depending
own
upon
preference
may
alter
density
in
within
For
toward
(_)
For
you
stitch
buttonhole
dial.
turn
the
dial
turn
the
diat
"0"_
density,
"1".
Atways
make
tonhole
you
34
biue
length
density,
less
toward
NOTE:
or your
buttonhole
the
more
fabric
buttonholes,
the
range on the stitch
(_)
Density
your
more
a practlce
on a scrap
plan
to
suitable
use to
stitch
of
butfabric
find
length.
the
®
stitches
Finelight
tot
fabric
@
_
_
'v
stitches
Coarse
for heavy
fabrics
markings
the top
you
(C) on the
slider
mark
(B).
on
the
on your
Lower the presser foot.
The
markings
are engraved
Adjusting
(A) toward
mark
garment.
mark-
you.
slider
the top
on
the
slider
in centimeters.
3. a.
Set the stitch
selector
at
I_
ILJ
b. Sew forward
front
hole,
c. Stop
until
marking
sewing
of
you reach the
your
button-
at the left stitch.
SECTION
a. Set the stitch
selector
5, a.
at E] "
sewing
b. Sew
at the right
selector
at
6. a.
t_
Set the stitch
selector
at [_] ,
i
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches.
c. Stop
Set the stitch
until
marMng
stitch.
you
reach
the
back
of the buttonhole.
c. Stop sewing
at the right
THE STITCHES
J
J
i
4.
LEARN
f
f
.......
3.
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches,
c. Stop sewing
7. Remove
open
with
the fabric
and cut the hole
the buttonhole
opener.
at the left stitch.
stitch.
NOTE :
When
sliding
sewing
at the edge of fabric,
buttonhole
and sewtnreverse(
foot
set
as illustrated
[_->_-*[_--_[_
).
35
SECTION
4.
PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS
CHART
What to Do When
PROBLEM
PROBABLE CAUSE
Incorrect
size needle.
Bent or blunt needle.
Skipping
Breaking
Stitches
Upper
Incorrect
setting of needle.
Tight upper thread tension.
Starting to stitch too fast.
improper
threading.
Tight upper thread tension.
Incorrect
size needle,
Sharp eye in needle.
Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
Thread
Nicks
Breaking
Fabric
Bobbin
Thread
not Moving
Machine Jamming Knocking
36
Noise
or burrs
at hole of needle plate.
CORRECTION
Choose correct size needle for thread
Insert new needle,
Reset needle.
Loosen
upper
thread
tension,
Start to stitch at a medium
Rethread machine.
speed.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Choose correct size needle for thread
Insert new needle.
Replace
Replace
and fabric.
shuttle, or polish off burrs completely.
needle plate, or polish off burrs completely,
improper
bobbin case threading.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
Check bobbin case threading.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
Darning plate in place,
Stitch Length set at 0,
Thread knotted
under fabric.
Remove darning plate.
Adjust
Stitch Length Control.
Thread caught
Lint in bobbin
Disassemble
and clean shuttle.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
in shuttle.
case or shuttle,
and fabric.
Place both
to stitch.
threads
back
under
presser foot
before
beginning
SECTION
What
to Do When
PROBABLE
Incorrect
Breaking
Bunching
Puckering
PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS
CHART
(Continued)
PROBLEM
Irregular
4.
Stitches
Needle
of Thread
CAUSE
CORRECTION
size needle.
Improper
threading.
Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric,
Loose presser foot.
Unevenly
wound bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.
Choose correct sfze needle for thread
Rethread machine.
and fabric.
Tighten
upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Reset presser foot.
Rewind bobbin.
Replace
needle plate,
or polish
off
burrs
completely.
Pulling fabric.
incorrect size needle,
Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot,
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Choose correct size needle for thread
Reset needle.
Upper and lower threads not drawn back
under presser foot before starting seam.
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitchs are
formed.
Incorrect
Reset thread tension(s).
Upper thread and bobbin
Insert new needle.
thread
Reset presser foot.
tension(s).
Using two different
sizes or kinds
Bent or blunt needle.
Loose presser foot.
Fabric very sheer or very soft.
and fabric.
of thread.
thread
should
be same size and kind.
Reset presser foot.
Use underlay
of tissue paper.
37
SECTION
5.
CARE FOR THE
MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb
Cleaning the Machine
To insure that
The feed
your
machine
dogs and shuttle
operates
at its best, you need to keep the essential
race areas can attract
dust and lint.
Your
machine
parts clean
can become
at all times.
sluggish
or knock
loudly
is caught.
Check
and clean those areas about
tf you sew frequently,
l
p
_
clean more
every three
months
under
normat
use.
often.
n
o
Clean the Feed Dogs
/
_
1.
.............................
Unplug
the
machine
J
and open the
face cover.
CAUTION!
The
light
bulb
HOT.
could
Protect
fingers
when
you
be
your
handle
Follow
these directions:
it.
1.
2.
Push
bulb
the
bulb
up
counter-clockwise
and
turn
to
the
remove
it.
3.
Put the new
up and turning
38
Unplug
the
presser foot
Using
a
screw
needle plate.
bulb
in by pushing
it cfockwise.
it
machine.
Remove
and needle,
driver,
2.
Use a lint
dogs.
remove
brush
to clean
the
feed
3.
Replace
needle plate.
if a thread
SECTION5.
6
Clean the ShuttIe
This
about
area must
Race
be
every three
CAREFORTHE MACHINE
kept
free of
dust,
lint
and occasional
tangled
thread,
Clean
the shuttle
race area
months.
'-.
f
Cemer pm ot
the shuHle
i_/_
Lever
I
Shuttle driver
[
I1[1f_/'7._
I
" '//_"_---',.
Shuttle
mL
case
..............
To Clean the Shuttle
t.
2,
3,
Raise
the
,x
Area:
needle
point
and remove
Push
shuttle
race
bar
To Replace
to
its
the bobbin
tevers
htghest
aside.
race cover and take shuttfe
Clean
the
race
with
out.
a
Put a drop
the
shuttle
2.
over-oil.
oil on the
and shuttte
center
race.
pm ot
shuttfe
is forming
Hold
shuttle
to form
lint
will
of
Assembly:
race
hatf
as illustrated
so that
moon
left
on the
shuttle
side of the
machine.
brush,
4,
Posttion
driver
Lift
shuttle
shuttle
1.
case,
Shuttle
3,
by center
a half moon
pin and position
shuttle
on the right
side.
Pointed
cover
place
over
so as
hook
be on the bottom.
Place
shuttle
race
into
shuttle
assembly.
Do not
4,
Snap the levers back into
the original
position.
39
SECTION
5.
CARE FOR THE
MACHINE
Oiling the Machine
Oil the
machine
frequently,
sewing
machine
Kenmore
NOTE:
e
in all
oil the
oil.
sewing
Unplug
Oil behind
areas shown
machine
under
One or two
machine
on this
the top
drops
oil is available
the machine
the Face Cover
before
of oil
page at least
cover
is sufficient.
at your
oiling.
about
nearest
Remove
once
every
a year;
three
Remove
Sears retail
otherwise
months,
excess oil,
the machine
In case machine
otherwise
Cover
it may stain
down
cover
or will
knock
time,
loudly.
oil it before
If you
sewing.
use the machine
Use good quality
fabric.
position,
e
Plate
Oil the Underside
S
Arm cover plate
Face
sluggish
used for an extended
store.
needle and put needle bar in full
Plate and under the Arm
can become
is not
plate
t
Shuttle
cover
J
Open face cover
plate
and!or
remove
40
a drop of oil;
cover
plate
by
loosening
top
screw
to
oil
points
Open
the
in illustration.
Use only
arm
do not over-oil.
the shuttle
left
remove
side
bottom
of
cover
the
cover.
by pulling
cover.
Tilt
Oil points
down
the
the embossed
machine
in illustration.
head
part on
back
and
PARTSLIST
1
All
2
3
4
parts listed herein may be ordered
WHEN ORDERING
INFORMATION:
5
REPAIR
from
PARTS,
1. PARTNUMBER
3, MODEL NUMBER
any Sears store or service
ALWAYS
GIVE
THE
center.
FOLLOWING
2. PARTDESCRIPTION
4. NAME OF ITEM
if the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electromcally
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
7
8
9
10
11
12
Ref. No.
t
2
3
4
5
t6
13
14
15
i!
J
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
6
7
8
9
10
!t
12
13
14
15
16
I7
t8
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
Part No.
Description
532096007
647515006
"102869004
647018004
813404013
647814020
647814031
647814042
647814053
801506008
648801108
650802014
735503018
647807008
593401008
"6757
647112009
"6864
000009803
647808009
802424004
820832005
647803004
"6889
735801008
"200012t04
"214872000
*941450000
*941460000
*941620000
*These ttems are not furmshed
instructIons
above.
Shuttle
Bobbin case
Bobbin box with 10 bobbins
Bobbin winder rubber ring
No, 1 t Stretch fabric needles (BLU)
No. 1 t Single needles (ORG)
No. 14 Single needles (RED)
No, t6 Single needles (PUR)
No. t8 Single needles (GRN)
Needle clamp with screw
Sliding buttonhole foot
Stratght stitch foot
Standard zIgzag loot
Satin stitch toot
Zipper foot
Zipper toot
Thumb screw
Needle threader
Light bulb
Buttonhole opener
Lint brush
Large screw driver
Small screw driver
Oi! and lint brush
Darning plate
Hemmer foot
Walking loot
Pin-tuck loot
Gathering foot
Ruffler
with
the machine,
but
may be ordered
per
4t
INDEX
A
Accessory storage box ...............
Adjusting stretch stitch balance .......
Applique ......................
Arm cover plate ..................
3, 7
16
25
4, 40
B
25
23
29
4, 9_10, 41
9_I0,
39, 41
12_"13
Bobbin winding
.................
Bobbin winding tension disc ........
Bobbin winding spindle
............
Box stitching
.....................
Buttonhole
...................
9_I0
3, 10
3, 10
30
34_35
Buttonhole
opener
.............
Button sewing
....................
..........................
Carrying handle
....................
Changing needle ....................
Changing presser foot
...............
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race
Clutch knob
..............
........................
guide
................
3
4
7
7
....
38_39
4, 9, 10
21
t 8
D
Darning ....................
Darning plate .......
22
4, 22, 26, 4t
E
Elastic stretch stitch ...............
Extension table ..................
33
3, 7
F
Fabric, needle, thread and stitch
length chart ........................
42
H
4, 17
i
Invisible zipper ....................
21
L
Lace work
...................
28
Large screw dr_ver .............
Light and power switch
............
Light bulb ...................
Lint brush ...................
4, 4!
4_5
5, 38, 41
4, 38, 41
4, 35, 4t
26
C
Cording
Cornering
3, 40
38
4_5
7
Hand wheel ...............
Bar tacking
.............
•Basic zigzag ......................
Blind hemming
..................
Bobbin
..................
Bobbin case ...............
Bobbin thread
..................
Cabinet
Face cover plate .........
Feed dogs .............
Foot controi ....................
Free arm sewing .................
Needle
...................
Needle clamp screw ............
Needle plate
....................
Needle, thread and fabric chart
4, 7"_8, 41
4, 7, 41
3, 38
..........
8
0
Oiling
.........................
Overcasting stitch
...............
Overcast stretch stitching ............
40
27
32
P
Parts list .......................
Performance problems chart ........
Pine leaf stretch stitching .............
Plug connector ...................
Portable case .....................
Power switch ......................
Presser foot .......................
Presser foot lever ..................
4t
36_37
33
4"-5
3
5
4
4, 6
R
8
Replacing bobbin case .............
Reverse stitch control ............
Rick rack stretch ..................
9_10
3, t4
31
S
Satin stitch foot ................
Satin stitch ....................
Seam guides ....................
Serging .........................
Sewing light ..................
Shell stitching
.....................
Shuttle .......................
Shuttle cover .....................
Shuttle race
...............
SLiding buttonhole foot .......
Small screw driver .................
Smocking .......................
Spool pin .....................
Stitch length control ...............
Stitch selector ..................
Straight stitch ..................
Straight stitch foot ...........
Straight stretch ..................
4, 24, 41
24
18
33
5
30
39, 41
3, 9
39
4, 34_35, 41
4, 41
32
3, 6
3, 16
3, 15
18"_22
4, 18_--19, 31
31
T
Thread
cutter
Thread
Thread
Thread
guide ......................
take-up lever .............
tensions
................
....................
Three-step
zigzag
..................
Topstitching
....................
Top thread
..................
Top thread tension
..............
Top thread tension control
.............
Turn a square corner
............
Zigzag
Zigzag
Zipper
Zipper
foot .........
t8_19,
stitches ..................
application
................
foot ..............
3, 6
3
3, 1 t
13_14
28
I9
1 1_!4
13_I4
3
t8
23, 25_33, 41
23_30
20_21
4, 20_21,41
OPTIONAL
FEET AND
ATTACHMENT
(A)
11541,
11682,
12332,
12493,
12712,
12841,
17881,
11551,
12320,
12490,
12541,
12714,
16951,
15841,
16841,
17641,
17922,
MACHINE
SOURCE
(S)
SEWING MACHINE
MODEL NO.
10111,
11607,
12331,
12492,
12641,
12781,
17781,
(SEWING
SEWING MACHINE
PART NO.
11581,
12321,
12491,
12581,
12741,
17622,
17824,
17928,
(C)
PART DESCRIPTION
200012104
Hemmer Foot
214872000
Walking Foot
941450000
(Even Foot)
Pin*Tuck Foot
941460000
385)
941620000
Gathering Foot
Ruffler
200002008
Piping Foot
200003009
Gathering Foot
200005001
200013105
Pin-Tucking Foot
Hemmer Foot
200027102
Binder Foot
200030108
1/4" Seam Foot
214872000
654805008
Walking Foot
Embroidery Foot
Ruffler
941620000
t
18836,
18841,
19502,
19601,
15641,
19150,
19501,
16641,
200002008
Piping Foot
200003009
Gathering Foot
200005001
200013105
Pin-Tucking Foot
Hemmer Foot
200027102
Binder Foot
200028103
Roller Foot
200029104
Teflon Foot
200030108
t/4" Seam Foot
200031109
Applique Foot
200032100
Cording Foot
214872000
Walking Foot
654805008
941620000
Embroidery Foot
Ruffler
ML-330555
Elastic Foot
200201009
Piping Foot
Blind Hem Foot
200209100
200210104
Taping Foot With Tape
Reel
200212106
Cording Foot
340522N
Pearl Sewing Foot
All parts listed above may be ordered by calling Sears Teleparts Center at I (800)366-7278
When ordering repair parts, always qive the following information,
1.
2,
3,
4,
Part Number (SEECOLUMN B)
Part Description (SEECOLUMN C)
Model Number of Sewing Machine: Example (385. xxxxx)
Name of Item (SEWING MACHINE)
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to the Sears Parts
Distribution
Center
for expedited
handling.
735-
811-001
SETTING
UP YOUR MACHINE
1. You'l!
find the spool
(:;over
Pull up the spool pro.
pin on
the top
2, Plug
foot
control
into
machine
receptacle.
Then connect cord into
any 110 _ 120 volt A.C, walt outlet.
.....
'..............
STITCH
I
1" SELECTOR
2.CONTROL
LENGTH
..........
....................
=.mm_
DARNING
ANY
NUMBER
ZIGZAG
._.\tJilltlmz _.,,=
SATI N
_\\!II_ll_um,,,.
BUTTON SEWING
THRE'E-STEP ZIGZAG
\%Ilm{m,,,.
A ,^ ,^ A/
RED
iI 3. CONTROL
TENSION
......I
ZONE
0,5 TO
ETC,
I 4,FOOT
PRESSER
t TO 4
F
2TO
A
B
I TO4
1.0
ANY
! T04
AorB
A and F
......
NUMBER
1 TO4
A
1 TO3
1 TO4
A
1 TO4
A
0,5 TO
i_:
"i .0
'BLI.D
_v°"V-VV-V"
1TO3
J_s.E_......
_
I TO2
3TO 9
A
Bo×
AJL,'_%r£
t
I TO4
A
STRAIGHT
STRETCH * ........
SMOCKING
"
c"_} or _'_
",",-'--','_'"','(
. B_OWN
POSITION
"- BROWN
....
_ POSITION .....
BROWN
V POB!TION
BROWN
V POSITION
2TO_
AorC
1 TO4
A
1 TO4
A
overcAST"
.........
_
_....
I TO4
A
OVE.CAST"
_
:_
1 TO4
A
SE.G,NG"
///.)JJJ
............
_ .............
A
ELASTm"
_
12714
Only.
I TO4
....
T BROWN
POSITION
BROWN
T POSITION
BROWN
V POStTION
BLUEZONE
" Model
3. Your
Kenmore
sewing
machine
has
been thoroughly
oited at the factory.
Be sure to w_pe off the needle plate
area, bed plate and shuttle
carefully
before sewing a garment.
It is wtse to
practice
on a scrap of fabric
so any
surplus oil is absorbed,
1 TO4
t TO5
E
STITCH SELECTOR
There are certain types of stitches that are used
more
often than others
m your garment
construction.
Because of thmr frequent
use, you will
soon realize the convenlence
offered
to you by
this control
The desired stitch will be obtained
by turning the Stitch Selector,
All stitches
printed
m brown
on the indicator
panel must be sewn with Stitch Length Controt
set at v position.
Model 12714
/
t
/
Slit
Setector
depends
_!_
Clean
0
NEEDLE
Flat II
away
SHUTTLE
NEEDLES
THREADING
on the BIG
_
in and around
the shuttle
and
(MATERIAL
DOESN'T
FEED PROPERLY)
EEDING
and feed
SHUTTLE
dogs to remove accumulated
dust and Iint
which may cause NOISE OR JAMMING.
OILINGFEEDING
TENSION
LITTLE
_
The more you
use your
machine,
the
less often
,t needs oil. l[ you have not
OILING
used your
machine
tot
a tew months,
and _t seems sluggish,
oil your machine.
Periodically
oil at points indicated
m
your
instruction
book,
USE
ONLY
KENMORE
SEWING MACHINE
OIL,
Q
Check
SU tehlength.
"
II
_
you
_
THREAD
CAN TANGLE
AND
SNAP w_thout being seen.
If your
thread breaks, unthread
and then RETHREAD
the machine,
both top
and bottom threads,
O
!
TENSION
HREADING
TOP THREADING
Make
-
sure
there
is no slack
BOTTOM
or
snags in the thread,
Use the
type of thread and size needle
recommended
m your instruction
book.
Thread
should
come
off
the back
of the
THREADING
Insert bobbin
with thread wound as shown and
guide bobbin onto center pm of bobbin case.
2. Pull thread through slot.
3, Pull thread under tension spring.
4_ Holding
latch open, position
case into shuttle,
and release latch,
of the top your
Compare
two, straight
correct the
stitching
thread wtth
tension
the dial
illustrations,
as shown. If it looks like rather
8E SURE TO NOTE
YOUR
PRESENT
SETTING
BEFORE
YOU START
I.
ADJUSTING,
Upper thread too
IU_
t
Decrease ,ensmn
tl_hl
Increase
spooJ as shown.
lerl_lOll
Upoer thread _oo loose
COMPLETING
THREADING
Hold top thread loosely
in left hand and rotate
handwheal
toward
you one complete turn,
Bring
bottom
thread up and next, pull top and bottom
threads under and to the back ot presser foot,
Corr_cl S_tching
IMPORTANT
For your safety an important
new feature
has been incorporated
in this machine,
The light/power
switch provides electric current for the motor as well as the light.
In order to operate the machine this sw_tch must be on,
if you are interrupted
while sewing and must leave the machine unattended,
just
turn off the light/power
switch and the machine can not be started accidentally
by
pressing on the foot control.
This feature also applies when the machine is in
storage.
The foot control
is used to vary the machine
speed from
zero to high.
,
WARRANTY
FULL
For
25-YEAR
WARRANTY
25 years from
in the mechanical
#
FULL
For
TWO
two
appear
the date of purchase,
components
YEAR
years
in the
ON SEWING
from
the
electrical
Sears will,
of the sewing
WARRANTY
MACHINE
free of charge,
machine
date
of
purchase,
of
the
EQUIPMENT
Sears wilt,
sewing
repmr defects
_n material
OF SEWING
MACHINE
or workmanship
which
appear
#
head.
ON ELECTRICAL
equipment
HEAD
free of
machine,
charge,
including
repair
defects
electromc
in material
components,
or workmanship
motor,
w_rmg,
which
switch
and
speed control.
FULL
90-DAY
WARRANTY
For 90 days from
necessary for proper
WARRANTY
SERVICE
CENTER!DEPARTMENT
This warranty
_)
ON ALL
the date
operation
PARTS
AND
ADJUSTMENTS
of purchase,
Sears will, free of charge_ replace any parts
of the sewing machine,
except for normal mmntenance.
IS AVAILABLE
BY RETURNING
IN THE UNITED
STATES.
gives you specific
MECHANICAL
legal rights,
SEARS,
THE
SEWING
and you may also have other
ROEBUCK
AND
CO., D/817
and
MACHINE
TO THE
rights which
vary from
WA, Hoffman
Estates,
provide
NEAREST
mechanical
SEARS
state to state_
IL 60179
service
SERVICE
i)
#
-_
SEWING MACHINE
Now
that
you
have purchased
or service° simply
contact
your
your
Kenmore
nearest
Sewing
Sears Serwce
Machine,
Center.
should
a need ever exist
Be sure to provide
for repair
all pertinent
facts
parts
when
you call or visit.
The model
your
Sewing
number
Machine.
WHEN
ORDERING
*PART
NUMBER
If
the
Repair
parts
of your
you
Sewing
Machine
will
be shown
on your
nomenclature
plate
on the back of
See page 4 for location.
REPAIR
PARTS,
ALWAYS
*PARTDESCRIPT]ON
need
Parts Distribution
are not
Center
SEARS,
stocked
GIVE
*MODEL
locally,
your
THE
FOLLOWING
NUMBER
order
will
*NAME
INFORMATION:
OF
ITEM
be electromcalty
for handling,
ROEBUCK
AND
CO., Chicago,
IL60684
U.S,A.
transmitted
to a Sears