Download Sears 385.11608 Owner`s manual

OWNER'S MANUAL
SEWING
MACHINE
MODEL 385.
12612090
OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS
"For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other)_
To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a
polarized outlet onty one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install
the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way."
"Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models
385.1148x x x, 385.1158 x x x, 385.1168x x x, 385.1258x x x, 385.1268x x x,
385.12612x x x, 385.1278x x x, 385.11607x x x, 385.t2710x x x, 385.12714x x x,
385.12712x x x, 385.17622x x x, 385.11608× × x, 385.12814x x × and 385.12014x x x.
xxx
- represents numbers 000 through 999_"
(For U.S.A. market only)
100-316-005
IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
Your
sewing
machine
Read all instruction
is designed
before
and constructed
using this sewing
onty for
4.
Never
operate
ventilation
accumulation
HOUSEHOLD
use.
machine.
5.
Never drop
6.'
Do not
7.
Do
8.
reduce the risk of electric
1.
An
appliance
unplug
and before
2,
should
this
Always
never
appliance
be left unattended
from
the
electric
shock:
when
outlet
not
plugged
in.
Always
after
using
same type
rated
cleaning.
unplug
relampmg.
Replace
bulb
with
Do
not
reach
for
the
appliance
that
has fallen
into
water.
4.
Do not
place
or sink,
or store
Do not place
appliance
where
_n or drop
into water
it can fall
or be pulled
or other
a tub
reduce
or injury
1.
Do not
aNow to
Use this
Never
working
water.
center
burns,
fire,
be used as a toy,
Close attention
not
unplug
Keep
fingers
is necessary
Always
this
(spray}
products
are being used or where
to the off
"'O")
position,
then
remove
on cord.
To unplug,
grasp the
plug,
not
use the
Sw_tch
the
from
ale
machine
proper
moving
parts,
Special
care
is required
needle.
needle
plate.
The
wrong
plate
can cause
the
the
needle
any adjustment
In
needles.
or push fabric
the needle
sewing
area,
machine
such
bobbin,
or changing
A_ways
unplug
while
causing
off
it to break,
_,"0")
as threading
presser foot,
the
stitching.
sewing
removing
covers,
lubricating,
mentioned
in the instruction
when
needle,
and the
machine
or when
making
changing
needte,
only
operate
this
properly,
Return
the
for
_ts intended
recommended
appliance
if
for examination,
if it has a damaged
it has been
appliance
repair,
use as described
by the manufacturer
dropped
to the
electrical
authorized
or mechanical
manual.
as contained
cord or plug,
or damaged,
nearest
in this
if it Is not
or dropped
dealer
in
into
or serwce
adjustment.
threading
like.
from
the
making
electrical
outlet
any
adjustments
other
manual.
is used by or near children.
appliance
the
to break.
Do not pull
shock,
when
aerosol
pulling
away
the sewing
_t may deflect
electric
Keep
free from
into any opening,
all controls
by
13.
t5.
Use only attachments
this manual.
3,
risk of
any object
turn
Do not use bent
liquid.
to persons.
appliance
2.
the
blocked,
controller
outlet.
12.
14.
WAR N I N G- To
Do
opening
and foot
dust, and loose cloth.
where
To disconnect,
needle
Unplug
into
or insert
operate
around
11.
_mmed_ate|y.
of lint,
air
any
machine
cord.
10.
before
15 Watts.
3.
9.
with
of the sewing
is being administered.
plug from
immediately
appliance
use outdoors.
oxygen
DA N G ER- To
the
openings
SAVE THESE iNSTRUCTIONS
when
SEARS, ROEBUCK
AND
CO.
Dear Customer:
You
have just
invested
m a very
please pause for a moment
and care for your
Specific
fine
machine.
read this booklet
Before
which
using your
contains
new Kenmore
instructions
on how
machine,
to operate
machine.
instructions
are gwen
obtain
the best sewing
Adwce
on the
results
operation
on threading,
and avoid
if you
have questions
the model
and serial number
tension
machine
about
when
you
_n space
number
of
are located
this
provided
appliance.
cleamng,
service expense
is always
your
available
machine
oiling,
etc. This will
for conditions
or need
at your
parts
beyond
Sewing Machine
befow
The
on the nomenclature
the
modei
model
number
plate,
number
and seNal
and serlaf number
as identified
on Page 3 of
thts booklet,
Model
No.
Retain
these numbers
THIS
MODEL
385.
Seriat No.
for future
IS A CENTER
referencm
NEEDLE,
LOW
BAR
SEWING
help you
our control.
nearest Sears Retai|
and service,
inqu_re.
Kenmore
Record
adjustments,
unnecessary
and care of your
Please remember,
number
zigzag sewing
and carefully
MACHINE.
atways
Store,
mention
SECTION1.
KNOW
YOUR
MACHINE
A Portable Case or. Cabinet is Available
Locate and Identify
the Parts ..............
Identify
the Accessories
........................
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
Set Up the
YOUR
Machine
MACHINE
............
3
FOR SEWING
.......................
4_6
Free Arm Sewing:
the Removable
Extension
• Accessory
Storage Box
....................
e Change the Presser Foot .................
Choose Your NeedEe and Thread
............
- To Change Your Needle .................
o Check Your Needle ....................
.......
o Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
Prepare the Bobbin
.......................
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
• Wind the Bobbin
.....................
o Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ............
Prepare Your Top Thread ...............
w Thread Your Needle
....................
• Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread
...............
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
..............
Stitch Selector
.......................
Stitch Length Control
...................
Adjusting
Stretch Stttch Balance
............
Reverse Stitch Control
.....................
Starting
To Sew .....................
3.
4
4
5
5
5
Table ....
•
6_7
6
7
7
8_9
......
8
8_9
9
10_11
10
11
12_13
14
14
15
15
16
SECTION
4.
17_18
17
17
17
18
18
Overcasting
Stitch
Rick-Rack
Stretch
PERFORMANCE
What to Do When
SECTION
5.
18
I9
19
20_26
20
21
22
22
23
....................
.....................
24
24
CARE
FOR
PROBLEMS
..................
YOUR
34_35
MACHINE
Oiling the Machine
.......................
o Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under
Arm Cover Plate ....................
• Oil the Underside
....................
PARTS
INDEX
LIST
...............................
................................
25
25
26
26
27
28_29
30"-31
32
32
33
33
CHART
Replacing the Light Bulb
.................
Cleaning the Machine
...................
• Clean the Feed Dogs ....................
Clean the Shuttle
Race
..................
LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight
Stitches ..................
o Straight
St_itch ...................
a Use the Seam Guides .................
e Turn a Square Corner
..............
Use the Darning PIate
....................
• Topstitehing
......................
.....................
•
Overcast Stretch Stitching
...................
e Serg]ng or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching
............
o Three-Step
Zigzag .........................
Lace Work
.......................
Blind Hemming
..........................
Buttonholes
...........................
Sew in a Zipper
........................
Shell Stitching
.........................
Smocking
............................
Elastic Stretch Stitch ..................
8ox Stitching
..........................
6
6
6
.....
Needle Position
........................
Straight Stretch
........................
Zigzag Stitches
..........................
o Basic Zigzag .........................
• Satin Stitch .......................
• Applique
.............................
• Bar Tacking
....................
• Sew a Button
........................
2_3
• Plug m the Machine and Switch on the Power
• Foot Control
Use .........................
• Setting Spool Pin ..................
o Adjust
the Presser Foot Lever ...............
• Thread Cutter
...........................
SECTION
•
Left
Darning
2
36
36_37
36
37
38
the
38
38
39
40
SECTION
1.
KNOW YOUR MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available
A full
line
nearest
of sewing
Sears
retail
Locate and Identify
cabinets
are available
at your
store
through
our
general
Case..
then
or
catalog.
Another
your
where,
option
Kenmore
. . _ buy
a Carrying
goes anywhere,
can
be stored
Take-up
Lever
Bobbin
Winding
the Parts
Upper
Thread
Thread
Guide
Spoo!
Pin
any-
Top
Thread
Tension
Tension
Bobbin
Disc
Winding
Spindle
Length
Control
Stitch
Control
Stitch
Selector
Controt
Stitch
Face Cover
Plate
Thread
Cutter
Needle
Plate
Reverse
Shuttle
Extension
{Accessory
Table
storage
box)
Cover
SECTION
Arm
Hand
Cover Plate
Carrying
\
Identify
Handte
KNOW YOUR MACHINE
the Accessories
Wheel
Bobbin
Presser Foot
Auto
1.
Clutch
/
Lint
brush
Lever
Knob
_
Buttonhole
opener
Light and
Power Switch
Free Arm
Darning
Connecto£
_,Nomenciature
_La[_e
screw
_Small
screw d rwer
p_
Plate
Straight
stitch toot
Foot
Control
stitchtoo___!
Satin
Needle
/
driver
_
buttonhole
Clamp Screw
Zipper
toot
toot
/
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine
• Plug in the Machineand Switch on the Power
Power
supply
Foot Control
Use
pIug
light
!
Foot contro_
Power switch
4,
Push the
light
on the power
Machine
plug
Before
inserting
machine,
be
the
sure
plug
2.
Insert
plug
the
machine
connector,
the
power
your
switch
ts
be sure it is a 110to120
insert the power
The
foot
which
FEATURE:
control
regulates
plug
as shown,
into
the
tt will
supply
plug into
the
speed
at
you sew.
increase
speed,
the ball of your
gently
press down
with
foot.
Your
machine
will
light/power
switch
interrupted
or
llght/power
switch
children.
not
operate
is turned
stop
sewing,
to
unless
the
If you
are
on.
turn
prevent
off
the
injury
to
To
decrease
speed,
release
your
three-prong
only
fit
the outfet.
one
foot
control
is sensltive
pres-
sure slightly.
NOTE:
The
foot
wilt
increase
sewing
way.
3.
to turn
4
into
OFF,
Check your outtetto
Volt AC outlet,
switch
light.
To
SAFETY
...................
NOTE:
and power
and sewing
or
speed
Practice
on
regulate
your
your
decrease
and
your
immediately.
a scrap
sewing
taste and needs.
of
fabric
to
speed
to
SECTION
Setting Spool Pin
Adjust
the Presser Foot
•
Lever
2.
Thread
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
Cutter
t
Spool pin
Normal up
poslT_on
High
position
posiUor
ip
position
Presserfoot
lever
The spool
pm
of
in order
thread
Js used for
to
hotding
feed
the spool
thread
to
the
machine,
To use, pull
for storage.
The
You
up the
spool
pin.
Push down
Presser
Foot
Lever
raises
and
lowers
your
presser foot,
can raise it about
up position
to help
foot.
you
1/4"
for easy removal
place
heavy
higher
than the normal
of the presser foot
fabrics
under
the
or
presser
You
don't
need
thread
after
handy
thread
Pull
before
the
of scissors
sewing.
to cut
the
Just
use the
several
inches
cutter.
threads
starting
a pair
you finish
to
lengthen
the next
seam.
FOR SEWING
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine (Continued)
•
Free-Arm Sewing:
Extension Table
Choose
the Removable
o
Accessory
Storage Box
•
Change the Presser Foot
Your
Needle
and Thread
= To Change Your Needle
Needle clamp screw
Fiat
side
away
from
you
To Remove
the Extension
(for free-arm
I.
2.
Pu_t gently
will
To Attach
to the
left.
index
finger
The extension
the
tab and
Tabfe
With
gently
your
thumb
snap in.
the
accessory
open toward
Sewing
accessories
located
storage
you,
are
in the box.
Use the correct
the stitch
To
pin
into
their
and
index
finger,
for
you wish to sew,
change
feet,
the
various
raise the presser
NOTE:
Raise
position
by lifting
Loosen
presser foot
Tighten
the
choose
from
the
the
screw
Loosen
thumb
proper
2.
foot,
3.
using
large
screw
driver
to
certain the foot is secure.
the
make
needle
it toward
Remove
ward.
bar
to
the
its highest
hand
the
clamp
screw
needle
by pulling
Insert
the
new
needle
with
the
flat side
it down-
into
the
away
from
4.
Push the needle up as far as it will
5.
Tighten
the
the
accessory
needle
large
box.
by
you.
clamp
with
wheel
you.
the
turning
the bottom.
the
1.
needle
by turning
toward
bar to its
lever,
the
position
presser
presser foot
insert
the
presser foot
conveni*
screw,
catches.
2.
of
highest
sewing)
insert
lid
box lifts
ently
snap out.
the Extension
(for fiat-bed
The
sewing)
Grip the table with your
and thumb,
as shown.
table
1,
Table
clamp
screwdriver
screw
from
needle
you.
go.
firmly
your
SECTION
Fabric,
Needle,
Thread
FABRIC
Batlste_ Dimity,
Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta,
Voi_e_
Organdy
Your
choice
of needle
and thread
depends
on the fabric
you are
sewing.
In your
needle
envelope,
you
will
find
the following
color-coded
needles:
Blue (11 )
Orange
........
for stretch
(11 } ........
Red (14)
for
(16}
........
fabrics.
medium
weight
Purple
for
or
medium-heavy
fabrics.
medium-heavy
and decorative
fabrics.
weight
YOUR MACHINE
Length Chart
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
11.ORANGE
THREAD
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized
Cotton
Silk A
50 Mereer=zed
!4*RED
SIZE
Polyester
Wrap
Silk A
Cotton
Core/Cotton
hole for
thicker
Medium
Heavy Weight:
Corduroy,
Den=m, Woo!,
Sailcloth,
Wool Flannel,
_Gabardine_ Velvets,
Leather
50 Mercerized
14-RED
or
16*PURPLE
(18)
.......
for
heavy
decorative
fabrics,
Replacement
Kenmore
needles
RECOMMENDED
STITCH
LENGTH
SETTING
2
(12 stitches per
inch ]
2--2.5
(1 0-12 st=robes
per mch)
Cotton
Mercerized
Heavy-Duty
Polyester
Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
on these
has a larger
topstitching
Heavy
Wmght:
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester
Core!Cotton
Coatmgs,
Upholstery
COttOn Duck, Heavy
Twills, Canvas
18-GREEN
Decorative
top-stitching
on all types ot fabric
18-PURPLE
1B-GREEN
Buttonhole
Twist
IUse as top thread
11-BLUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized
Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
weight
top-stitching
are avialable
at your
2--3
(8-10 stitches
per inch)
fabrics
and
on
these
nearest
Sears
stores,
Stretch
Fabric:
Polyester Doubte Knits,
Nylon Tricot,
Jersey.
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Cire Tricot
3
{8 stitches
per
inch}
thread.)
Green
FOR SEWING
fabrics
topstitching
{This needle
thread
PREPARE
fabrics.
for lightweight
........
Medium Weight:
Cotton,
Cotton Blends,
Percale, Gingham,
Shantung,
Pique,
Seersucker,
Satin, Kmts,
Vinyl Su_tmgs, Linen,
Wool Crepe, Leather
and Stitch
2.
only)
3--4
(6-8 stitches
per Inch)
2--2,5
(t0-12 stitches
per mch}
Check Your Needle
1.
Look for barbed or blunt point.
2.
A damaged needle can cause permanent
knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.
Always
buy a good quality
be strong,
smooth
thread.
and consistent
It should
snags or runs in
resist tangling
and
in thickness.
7
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Prepare the Bobbin
To Remove
the Bobbin
Case from
the Machine
Wind the Bobbin
Release
% .............
Remove
the
the
machine
left.
Open
pulling
extension
by
the
down
the
table
pulling
shuttle
from
it to
the
cover
by
embossed
part on
the left side of the cover.
Raise needle
by rotating
to
its highest
positron
hand wheel toward
you.
J
To remove
tle, pul!
Pu|l
shuttle,
bobbin
open
bobbin
case from
shut-
latch
of bobbin
case,
case
straight
out
of
clutch
clutch
knob
toward
you
moving
bobbin.
by
inside
the
turmng
hand
the
wheel
to stop the needle from
while
you
winding
the
SECTION
•
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
J
Draw
thread
from
spool
bobbin
winding
tension
Pull
through
end
bobbin
disc as shown.
of
thread
through
hole
in
Place
as shown.
bobbin
spindle
from
the
bobbin
until
=
Insert the Bobbin
Place
making
wise
bobbin
bobbin
in bobbin
sure thread
and
into the Bobbin
_s
as shown.
case
feeds clock-
coming
from
onto
with
top
winding
it
clicks.
thread,
start
slightly
filled,
bobbin
end
of
of
the
thread
winding
Wind thread
coming
Push
bobbin.
spindte
to
Holding
machine.
the
onto
winder
winding
right
Turn
clutch
knob
away
while
holding
hand
wheel
of
is
sewing
thread.
stops.
spindle
left
end
and clip
until
Push
When bobbin
snip off
bobbin
Remove
to
from
for
the
bobbin.
you
normal
operation.
end of thread.
Case
Pull thread
as shown.
through
slot of case
Pull
thread
spring
and through
as shown
above.
inches of thread
under
tension
the opening
Pull 3 to 4
from
bobbin.
Holding
case
latch.
into
latch
open,
shuttle
and
position
release
Case
should
when
latch
lock
into
is released.
place
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Prepare Your Top Thread
= Thread Your Needle
Raise take-up
Raise presser
Place spool
The numbered
steps above follow
the numbers
lever to its highest
foot
on spool
pin as shown,
1.
Draw thread
2.
While
holding
check
spring
hofder.
draw
thread
3.
Firmly
4.
Draw
5.
Thread
position
by turning
hand wheel
toward
you,
lever.
into
thread
thread
with
thread
guide using both
near spool,
up and through
draw
coming
from
the back of the spool.
hands.
thread
take-up
down
lever from
into
the
tension
right
to left,
area
and then
on the illustrations.
Dotted
loops
lines
and then
show
pfaces
is pulled
tight.
where
the
thread
NOTE:
I0
thread
down
needle from
You may want
and slip it into
front
needle
bar thread
guide.
to back.
to cut the end of thread
with
sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
around
the
SECTION2.
PREPAREYOUR MACHINEFORSEWING
,= Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread
!
1,
Raise
presser
thread
foot
lever.
Hold
loosely in left hand
handwheet
toward
top
2.
and rotate
Bring
bobbin
thread
up
top thread.
you one complete
by
pulling
3.
Pull
both
back
of
threads
the
under
presser
foot,
to 6 inches of thread
clear.
and
to
leaving
the
4
turn.
If you cannot
pick
up bobbin
1.
is needle threaded
2.
Is thread
3.
Are 3 to 4 inches of thread
4.
ts thread
5.
|s bobbin
6,
Is the machine
tangled
from
from
thread
front
around
shuttle
properly
steps given above, then check:
to back?
needle.;
coming
from
the shuttle?
tangled?
installed
threaded
by following
in the bobbin
according
case?
to the instructions?
tl
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
Choose
Top side of |abnc
the Correct
The best tension
Setting
mark
Tension:
will
on;
the stiffness
and thickness
the number
of fabric
the type
thread
depend
of the fabric
layers
of stitch
The top thread
_s [oo loose,
The top thread
IS too tight
thread
Top.ida
For Straight
The
ideal
fabric,
If you
Stitch
straight
as shown
look
gaps, that
of fa
stitch
will
have threads
above, magnified
at the
each stitch
stitch,
front
is smooth
locked
between
the two
layers
of
The
to show detail.
and back,
you
top
appears
will
notice
that
there
thread
on
The bobbin thread
appears on the
upper surface of the
taboc.
the
underside of the
fabric.
are no
and even.
When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top
thread.
J
Tension
The
bottom
ts too loose:
top
thread
t2
shows
of the fabric.
of the stitch
Tension
through
the
The
The bottom
side
the
wilt feel bumpy.
is too tight:
bobbin
top
the stitch
thread
will
of the fabric.
will
come
The top
feel bumpy.
through
side of
SECTION2,
For Zigzag
In the
of
below
Stitch
correct
fabric
for
PREPAREYOURMACHINEFORSEWING
and
zigzag
the
top
the correct
stitch,
the bobbin
threads
will
appearance.
threads
show
will
slightly
To match
not show on the top side
on
the
bottom
this appearance,
adjust
side.
your
See
top
tension.
Top tension
Too
Top
Bottom
Top tension
slde of Fabric
side of Fabric
Just Right
Too Loose
Tight
Top slde of Fabric
Bottom
side of Fabric
Top s_de of Fabric
Bottom
side of Fabric
Too
Tight:
Too
Loose:
Just Right:
---
Corner
ot
each
zigzag
will
pull
together
on
the
top side of fabrics,
----
The
top
thread
will
loop through
bottom
s_de
ot
tabrlc
and will be
pulled
almost
together,
MiMmize
the
amount
ot top thread visible on
the
bottom
side
ot
fabric
without
causing
excessive .puckering
or
causing
the
bobbin
thread
to show on the
top s_de,
Results vary
with fabrrc0 thread and
sewing conditions.
13
SECTION2.
PREPAREYOUR MACHINEFORSEWING
StitchSelector
Stitch
/
Length Control
0
Setting mark
/
/
1
2
3
4
Se_ing mark
'
Stitch Selector
\
Stitch Length
t¢
t
I
!
\\
L_____J
\\
4
_.
-z_
i
€l
1
1
o
N JJg J JNN J J
EJ
t
tting
Stitch Se|ecter
The
stitch
stitch
regular
Stitches
To
stretch
of stitches
only
determines
the stitch
width
the
The
for
stitches
stitches.
Stitches
avoid
by color.
needle
adjusting
"0"
or
this control
the number,
upon
the buttonhole
control,
fabric
and
control
regulates
the
length
of
stitch,
and
also
has a stretch
the longer
the stitch.
means no feed.
Depending
is up
length
setting.
are orange,
are blue.
needle
stitch
The higher
are designated
are yellow.
Settings
your
!4
rack
Zigzag and Utility
Buttonhole
NOTE:
types
not
also regulates
and rick
The different
Stretch
control
select, but
zigzag
Straight,
Stitch Length Control
selector
you
mark
out
damage,
of
fabric
be sure
when
your
stitch
fabric
or your
density
within
own
preference
in buttonholes,
the blue buttonhole
you
may alter
range on the stitch
length
SECTION
Adjusting
2.
PREPARE
YOUR MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Reverse Stitch Control
Stretch Stitch Balance
¢
_Setti
mark
st.oh
Loo rh; ",'
t
t
L__J
__ \'
Stitch
'
\
I cI
/
set
this
\
Length C__
J
To
select
Stretch
Stitches,
control
at
position.
In stretch
stitch
sewing,
be m the
detent
position
for
materials.
most
used,
forward
you
may
stitches
Stitch
Length
between
Depending
need
to
upon
adjust
of stretch
Control
should
S and L (Tposition)
the type
this
control
sewing
with
turn
the
To reverse
stitch,
hold
down
this
control
during
sewi ng.
of fabric
to
match
Release to sew forward
again.
reverse motion
stitches.
To
shorten
toward
"S"
stretch
stitches,
To lengthen,
L
•
turn
toward
T
•
control
slightly
"L"
S
Smoothing stretch
Rickrack stretch
15
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Starting To Sew
Now
that
Kenmore
1.
you
are familiar
sewing
inspect
afraid
the
with
machine.
needle.
to change
the controls
Below
It should
your
on your
are some good
be straight,
needle frequently,
machine
habits
properly
Many
and with
to follow
the accessoNes
each time
set and sharp
of the new fabrics
you sit down
on the
provided
poinl_o It should
made of synthetic
for the machine,
you are ready to start
to sew with
your
new
to sew:
be the correct
blends
tend todull
size for
the fabric
the needles
more
and thread
easily than
being used. Do not
fabrics
be
made of natural
fibers.
2.
3.
Before
placing
during
the sewing
Test the
suitable
4.
Fabric
the material
machine
to your
should
seam marking
stitch
on a scrap of fabric
be placed
under
the
on the needle plate
Run the machine
6.
Fasten each seam by back
7.
Always
8.
Guide
9.
When turning
16
3 or 4 stitches
see that
the ends of the threads
have been drawn
about
4 inches to the rear of the machine.
Hold
on to threads
of the seam.
you
plan to use. The fabric
should
be double
thickness,
Adjust
the machine
for the length
of stitch
and tension
fabric.
5,
finish
on the machine,
of the first
at a slow
sewing
the fabric
presser foot
when
with
tacking
w_th your
the hand wheel
the bulk
a simple
even speed, The more
pressure
at the beginning
each seam with
gently
making
you put
manually,
to the left of the needle and the right
edge of the material
placed on the 5/8"
on the foot
control,
the faster
the machine
wilf sew.
and end of the seam,
the needle at its highest
hand
of the material
seam,
point.
in front
of the needle.
Never
always
turn
you,
it toward
pull or hold the fabnc
in such a way
that
the normal
feeding
is altered,
SECTION
Straight
3.
LEARN THE STITCHES
Stitches
Use the Seam Guides
Straight Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch selector
,
1
Cornering
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
The
%
seam
guides
t,
Raise the presser foot,
2.
Raise
the
needle
7,
to
Its
8,
position,
At
the end
want
highest
to
of the
reverse to
Raise the
to
Zigzag foot
the
edge
a stitching
needle
of
the fabric
guide
prate
line
(5/8"
may
lock the stitch,
and remove
width.
to
help
you
needle
plate
measure
seam
The tines are 1/8"
the 5/8"
and 7/8"
•
a Square
Turn
apart,
with
Hines marked.
Corner
next
on
_s
seam, you
presser foot
the fabric_
Place
on the
, .J
are there
Straight foot
Guide
Stitch length
control orange
the
9,
Cut the threads.
most
g
common).
4.
Draw
back
5.
6.
the
threads
and lower
Press the foot
Hold
the
guide
that
Do
fabric
it along
towards
the
the presser foot,
control,
loosely
the
and gently
guide
line,
so
fabric
it feeds naturally,
not
force
the fabric
To turn
or try
to
1,
pull it ttght.
a square
Stop
stitching
by
turning
toward
you
when
facing
you
lines
Raise
the
the
Lower
stitching
lower
hand
the
wheel
the fabric
up
w_th
edge
the
guide, as shown,
the
fabric
the 5/8"
3.
and
needle
cornering
2.
corner 518" from
edge:
presser
foot
to
the
edge with
presser foot
and bffgin
line
and
turn
seam guide.
the
in the new direction,
t7
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches (Continued)
Usethe DarningPlate
=
m
Topstltching
Left Needle
Position
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
Top thread tension
controt 2 to 6
Sometimes
when
to control
the fabric
The Darning
so that they
you
sew, you
Here's How
want
youself.
1.
do not touch
Darning
2.
the fabric.
Plate:
The rectangular
Darning
in the needle plate.
darmng
holes
are slightly
plate,
to
needle plate
will
show
plate
with
the
the
darning
plate holes.
Use the
darning
ways:
Darning
Button
18
Accent
two
in the .following
(P, 19)
Sewing
(P, 23)
emphasizes
garment
edges fiat
outer
plate
and Its Uses
Topstitching
your
The feed dogs
through
guide
the
the fabric
of
the
next
presser
Evenly
produce
3/8"
fabric
along
an even
from
this
row
©
of
the edge,
the left
plate pins into
holes.
edge
topstitching
The Stitch
darnmg
darning
edge of
right
edge to
In
the 3 ptns on the bottom.
Fit the
the
these
of center.
2.
3,
the
the
the
Keep the
Zigzag foot
m the
match
ho|es
Position
the presser foot,
foot.
holes
PLate
Lower
to
Straight foot
1.
Stitch length
control orange
Plate covers the feed dogs
To put on the
NOTE:
Stitch selector
selector
and
keeps
Use
the
lines
seams
of
and
and crisp.
suits
rows
of
or
blouses
topstitching
edges of cuffs,
with
one
around
or
the
Iapels or collars.
Left
Needle
Position
controf
while
topstltching
stitching
difficult
NOTE:
Use
onfy
foot
for
Sewing.
for
or
more
edge
fabrics.
zigzag
presser
Left
Needle
SECTION
Darning
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Straight Stretch
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
Stitch
selector
Stitch
selector
I|I
1
f
III
Top thread tension
contro] t to 4
Stitch length
control any number
{not necessary to
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch length
control yeltow
position
Here's
1.
NO presser
foot
kk_
How
Put
the
darning
plate
the
on
needle
stretch stitch
L__J
plate
(see p, 1_88).
2.
Darmng
plate
Remove
presser
between
foot
and
embroidery
stretch
hoops
Straight foot
fabric
with
Zigzag foot
hole
centered.
3.
Draw
the
bobbin
fabric
by holding
one
stitch
start
darning.
at
thread
up
the top
the
spot
through
thread
where
Stretch
the
and taking
you
wish
to
The Stitch
This
4.
Lower
the
presser
bar
and
sew
at
a slow
speed.
5.
6.
Move
the fabric
back
and forth
slowly
the darn'_ng area.
Turn
half
the
fabric
layer of stitching
NOTE:
tf
the
stitch
straight
ed for knits
you have covered
your
damaged,
under
turn
and
fabric
is
or
badly
piece of fabric
the hole to reinforce
it.
stitch
and Its Uses
is the
stitch,
stretch
especially
and"stretch
can
variation
of
develop-
also
on all fabrics.
be
fabrics
as well.
used
for
When
plate.
you finish
darning,
remove
the darning
tt works
curved
seams
garments
that
deal
fabrics.
fabrics
It can be used on
of
and
will
well on
on
receive
strain
(ie.
and
other
any
a great
children's
clothes).
The
stretch
actually
action"
but
is
and
the
does
as it
stitched
back
called
stitch),
when
instead
stitch
stretch
(sometimes
give
7.
was developed
knits+
sewn,
forward
layer.
thin
This
topstitching
sew another
over the first
use a separate
until
stitching
to be used on stretch
a
so that
fabric
not
is being
in
a
motion
"reverseit will
stretches
of breaking,
19
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches
=
f
Basic Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
Top thread tension
control 2 to 5
selector
Stitch length
control orange
Here's How
There are many
Consult
Satin
Zigzag foot
the specific
Stitch
Applique
Rick-rack
The Stitch
Overcast
and its Uses
p. 22
p. 2__2
Sewing
Overcasting
variations
p. 21
Work
Bar Tacking
But-ton
ways to sew a zigzag stitch,
p. 2;3
p. 24
stretch
stretch
p. 2.__44
p, 25
Serging p, 25
The
zigzag
common
your
stitch
and most versatile
machine,
for sewing
ming,
is one of
also
ing.
It
trims, appliques
or as a decorative
buttonholes,
mending
with
2O
stitches on
It can be a utility
buttons,
overcasting,
can
the most
be
used
hem-
and
to
darn-
decorate
and cut-out
stitch.
stitch
work
Three-step
zigzag p. 26
for detailed
directions,
SECTION
3,
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Satin Stitch
Zigzag width:
Set the Machine
S_tch
Iength:
Stitch seJector
Stitch
1
<
2
3
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Stitch length
control 0,Sto 1
4
Close
to 0
Satin stitch foot
The Stitch
and Its Uses
The Satin
stitch
used decorative
is a versatile
stitch,
be used to overcast
ample,
blankets,
but
and often
it can also
a raw edge (for
linens,
ex-
tablecloths
Here's
Once
How
your
machine
of the fabric
weight
is set up to stitch,
you are planning
you may want
to use. Too tight
to experiment
a satin stitch
on a fragment
may pucker
some light
fabrics,
and napkins).
The Satin
stitch
ts especially
attractive
in applique.
21
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
=
Applique
=
Bar Tacking
Set the Machine
Stitch
Sat the Machine
Stitch selector
Stitch
l
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Baste
Ior
joiner)
applique
Stitch
sure
fuse
around
the
with
iron-on
fabric
pieces
on the
fabric_
the
needle
applique
falls
along
sewing
down
foot
or left.
pivot
the
This st'_tch is similar to a very short
satin stitch and is used to reinforce
points of strain such as corners
pockets and straps on lingerie,
outer
Zigzag foot
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
corners,
into the fabric.
and
Stitch tength
contro_ 0,5 to I
making
the
edge of the applique.
When
22
i
Stitch length
control 0,5 to 1
Satin stitch foot
Stitch salecto r
lower
the needle
Raise the presser
fabric
to the
right
or
SECT!ON
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Sew a Button
Sat the Machine
!ii';
Stitch
Stitch selector
!!i!
Top thread tension
control 't to 4
Stitch length control
any number (no?
necessary to adjust)
Use the darning
plate for button
sewin
To
{see p. 18).
I
1.
Set the stitch
2.
Align
selector
at"
€_
"
the
Zigzag foot
hole
3+
Darnmg plate
the
both
holes of the button
of the button
Lower
the
foot
comes
just above
just below
the
with the slot
needle
and turn
the stitch
the
hole
right
of the
and place the left
and rinse needle.
5.
Set the stitch
at "'
leaving
needle
hole in the
the
shank,
a 20 cm (8")
thread
down
button
and wind
cut
tail.
through
the
Bring
the
it around
the shank.
to zigzag until
the
needle point
button,
Sew about five stitches
c_
of the foot
point.
selector
4.
selector
strengthen
threads
again and sew a few
Draw
the
thread
to
the
bottom
side
and knot.
stitches
to _ock thread.
23
SECTION3.
LEARNTHESTITCHES
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
Overcasting
Rick-Rack
Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Stitch
Start
overcasting
right
Zigzag foot
up
tangled.
and Its Uses
zigzag
garment
variation
is very useful
construction
raw edges of any sewing
24
and
in finishing
project,
m
about
of your
1/8"
seam.
inside the
the
stitches
will
will
bunch
become
The Stitch
and Its Uses
Sew on stretch
if you start
at the edge, the fabric
and
Stitch length
control yei!ow
stretch stitch
posit_on
Hints
raw corner
This
Stitch setector
Top thread tension
controi 1 to 4
Stitch _ength
controI 1 to 2
Helpful
The Stitch
Stretch
you might
Zigzag foist
This
stitch
top stitch
fabrics
in any area that
use a zigzag stitch,
can be used as a decorative
as well,
SECTION
=
Overcast
Stretch
=
Stitching
Stitch
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch smch
Stitch
Top thread tension
centre! 1 to 4
Y_J
Place
the
the LEFT
Stitch
Zigzag foot
Or, place
seam,
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
__
raw edge of the fabric
of the needle
of the outside
your
then
fabric
trim
L_J
to
Place
foot
the fabric
to allow
Zigzag foot
Or, place
seam,
a 5/8 °'
This
Stitch
and
stitch
seam with
Its Uses
NOTE:
can
be used
for
The
seam
one
operation.
It
you
are
swimwear,
and
stretch.
sewing
a
an overcast finish.
is formed
making
other
and finished
can be used
garments
that
ski
Jn
when
pants
require
Raw
or worn
can
be
edges of older
overcast
to
garments
prevent
further
The
Stitch
raveling.
Use
NOTE;
narrow
Use
a blue
needle,
prevents
stretch
which
skipped
fabric
effectively
st|tches.
fabric
under
the
the
stitches
presser
are
made
your
then
fabric
trim
to allow
seam
a 5/8"
allowance
after.
allowance
after.
The
the
so that
over the edge.
edge.
seam
How
position
as shown.
so the needle pierces
just short
selector
Here's
Here's How
positron
THE STITCHES
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Top thread tenston
control I to 4
LEARN
or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching
(_
Set the Machine
Stitch
Serging
3.
press
seams
this
Its Uses
stitch
seam that
open
on
heavyweight
want
and
you
you
do not
flat.
It
kmts
or
woven
a narrow
for making
when
want
is ideal
a
need to
for
medium
to
fabrics
where
you
it
ustng
fabric,
use a blue
stretch
fabric
needle
effectively
skipped
knit
stretch
which
prevents
stitches.
1/4"
on
seam.
When
is also great
elastic swim wear.
25
SECTION3.
LEARNTHESTITCHES
ZigzagStitches
=
Three-Step
Lace Work
(Continued)
Zigzag
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch se|ector
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Stitch
/
Stitch selector
Top thread tension
control t to 4
Stitch length
control 0_5 to I
Stitch Length
control !
Seam Finishing
Place the fabric
so that
the right
Zigzag foot
under the presser foot
the edge will
be slightly
inside
hand side of the presser foot.
Guide
the
work
so
the
right
stitches
fall
at the edge of the fabric.
Zigzag foot
hand
J
Lace
to
The Stitch
The
three-step
zigzag
three-step
would
than
iy useful
basic
strength,
a regular
The three-step
Ls a combination
stitch. You
zigzag
use the
has more
flatter
a fanciful,
blouses
and
feminine
lingerie.
and
piJ_ows
become
when
trsmmed
with
Turn
raw edge of fabric
touch
Table
more
linens
elegant
lace.
and Its Uses
zigzag and straight
the
adds
zigzag
may use
everywhere
zigzag
you
stitch,
elasticity,
is
zigzag.
stitch
is especial-
for:
--
mending
-
sewing
patches
smoothly
and
Mending
Position
securely.
--
repalnng
straight
-26
finishing
seams.
tears.
Place
stitch
using stretch
Trim
it
and
1/2".
that
the
tear under
the stitching
the
will catch
needle
both
so
sides.
under
lace underneath
excess fabric
blind
at least
and
hem stitch.
close to stitching.
top-
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Blind Hemming
114"
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch selector
Light
Weight
Fabric
(Regular}
"top thread tension
control t to 4
Stitch length
1 to 3
control
Heavy
Weight
Fabric
Zigzag foot
Sat the Machine
Stitch
Stitch selector
(Stretch)
%
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
There
are two
blind
wider
and will
"give"
1.
Finish
2.
Measure,
hem stitches
and is used for knit
the raw edge of your
turn
up your
NOTE:
For light
3.
Fold
the material
4,
Place garment
should
5.
After
NOTE:
weight
The stretch
fabrics,
and stretch
The regular
blind
hem Js used for woven
fabrics,
The stretch
blind
hem is
fabrics.
hem any way you desired,
(See Overcasting,
you may need a double
p, 24)
fold.
side out) on the edge to be stitched,
presser foot
the fold
press both
blind
machine.
hem and pin.
(wrong
under
just catch
hemming,
on your
in such a manner
that
as shown,
straight
stitches
leaving
will
114" of the finished
be sewn on extended
hem edge showing:
edge,
The zigzag stitch,
of the garment.
sides of the finished
hem stitch
hem.
The top side of the garment
also can be used for Lace Work.
will
show only
the blind
stitches,
(See p. 2__66)
Stitch length
control I to 3
foot
27
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Buttonholes
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch selector
( DEID)
Top thread tension
control t to 5
Stitch length control
1. a. Carefully
length
mark
on your
b. Change
the
buttonhole
to the sliding
c.
Insert
buttonhole
b.
foot
the
with
mg runmng
garment
the
under
buttonhole
toward
the
so that
garment-.
foot.
Sliding buttonhole foot
2. a. Move
the top
mark
meets the start
Line
up
with
the
c.
NOTE:
the top
the Stitch
Depending
own
upon
preference
may
alter
density
In
within
For
toward
@
For
you
stitch
buttonhole
dial.
turn
the
dial
turn
the
dial
"0 '°`
"1 °',
Always
you
more
@
slil[chB5
densLty,
make
tonhole
28
blue
length
density,
tess
toward
NOTE.
or your
buttonhole
the
more
fabric
buttonholes,
the
range on the stitch
(_
Density
your
a pract=ce
on a scrap
plan
to
suitable
use to
stitch
of
butfabric
find
length.
the
tot
lighl
|abrics
@
l
SIilches
tot
heavy
fabrics
you
(C) on the
mark
markings
Lower
mark
The
markings
3. a. Set the stitch
on
on the
front
slider
in centimeters.
until
marking
of
at
you
your
reach the
button-
hole.
the
on your
selector
b. Sew forward
(B).
the presser foot.
are engraved
Adjusting
toward
garment.
mark-
you.
(A)
slider
toot
the
slider
c.
Stop sewing
at the left stitch.
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
i_
iiii_i_
_i,'!i
iii_i
¸_ii_!_i_i!_!ii!
_'_
i_i_i_,i_i
_ii_i
I
_ii!!!!iii!i_!il:_i_i!:i_ii_i!!!!_i
_i' '>:_'__i!ii_i!_iii_!,!_i'i!!_ii_iii_ii!i:_,!_ii!,_i!:i!i:!i
_ i_ii!!!_!ii!i!i,ii_!_,_i_
S_i:ii'_!ii_il,ii_i_iii_i,i!,_iiiiii!i!
¸I!
¸_i_i_iii:i!i_?:_i!_!
¸
4. a. Set the stitch
selector
at
_j_
5. a. Set the stitch
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches.
c.
Stop sewing
b. Sew
at the right
until
marking
stitch.
c. Stop
selector
you
at
reach
I_i
the
6. a. Set the stitch
back
of the buttonhole.
sewing
at the right
selector
at
[_
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches.
c. Stop
sewing
7. Remove
open with
the fabric
and cut the hole
the buttonhole
opener.
at the left stitch.
stitch.
NOTE:
When sewing
sliding
at the edge of fabric,
buttonhole
and sewinreverse,
foot
set
as illustrated
_]-_[_[_-_
).
29
SECTION3.
LEARNTHESTITCHES
Sewin a Zipper
Fabric
Put
Preparation:
the
right
gether and
per
Set the Machine
the
fabric
sew to the end
of the
opening.
sides
Use
of
the
reverse
to
to-
the
length
at
zipper
"4"
opemng
and
top
with
thread
Stitch selector
ziplock
the stitches.
Sew
Z{pperteeth
Stitch
Zipper
tape
I
stitch
tension
at "3".
Top thread tension
control 3 to 6
Stitch length
control 2
End ot opening
To Saw:
1.
Fold
4.
back
the |eft
Zipper foot
Top
edge of tabrtc
<
2,
Turn
under
ance to form
the
right
a I/8"
seam allow-
5.
Lower
side of the zipper,
foot
the zipper
side at the
fold.
so that
3.
left
on the 1.eft side
of the needle.
as shown.
Right side
of fabric
To sew the
set the zipper
seam allowance
Place the
zipper
118" fold
and pin in place.
teeth
next
to the
7.
the fold
per
the
tape
Lower
the
to
point
and the zipwhere
the
begins,
the needle to hold the fab-
ric and raise the presser foot.
30
zipper
tape.
Sew through
slider
on the right
of
the needle p_erces the fold
and the zipper
6.
foot
bottom
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
k.
8,
9.
10,
Open the zipper.
Lower
the presser
foot
Close
fabric
and stitch
the
z_pper
and
turn
the
11.
rtght side up.
To sew the
right
the
side
zipper
of
per,
set
right
side of the needle,
the zip-
foot
on
Stitch
tom
13.
INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
AND
t
CORDING
INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Adjust the loot so the needle _ssewing through
the center hole of the foot and one groove ol
the toot Js riding on the teeth of the z_pper as
shown. Follow the z_pper manufacturer's instructions. After zipper has been _nserted,
finish
sewing seem by shifting toot to side position
sewing through side notch.
across
and
below
the
bot-
and continue
to
of the zipper.
Turn
the
corner
guide
the
teeth,
as shown,
Stitch
through
zipper
foot
the
the
fabric
ztpper
and
2" from
the top of the
Lower
the
needle
into
the
fabric
and raise the presser foot.
16.
along
Stop about
zipper.
15.
the rest of the seam.
12.
14.
the
Remove
the
basting
stitches
and
open the zipper,
17,
Lower
the
of the
seam, Make sure the fold
foot
and stitch
the rest
is
even,
tape,
CORDING
Foot can also be used to make cording
covers ere, Cover a cord with a strip
fabric and sew as shown,
for slip*
of bias
NOTE:
Use **Low Bar Sewing
{6757}
tot
"invisible
which can be obtained
Maohlne ZIPPER
FOOT"
zipper"
and "'cording",
at any Seats retail store.
31
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Smocking
Shell Stitching
Sat the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
Stitch selector
Stitch selector
I
Top thread tension
control 3 to 9
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Stitch length
control I to 2
..............................
J
Stitch length control
ye]tow stretch stitch
position
Here's How
1.
For best effect:
i
set the
stitch
length
7
as you
desire.
--
Zigzag toot
you
may need to tighten
top thread
--
allow
clear
fabric
tension
the
needle
the folded
when
the
Zigzag foot
slightly.
to
just
edge of the
it zigzags.
With
2.
The Stitch
and Its Uses
:i'he Shell
Stitch
hem
over folded
rows
of shell
stitching
stitching
can
by sewing
fabric.
a
Several
are called
shell
tucks.
Shell
be used
hems, sleeve and neck
Shell
tucking
scalloped
lingerie.
32
can
tucks
to
finish
to
blouses
You
can sew Shell
soft silky
wovens
of shell
1/2"
Stitch
stitches,
apart.
on knits
in any direction.
the
stitch
straight
length
stitching
lines
create
and
at
"4",
sew
3/8"
apart
across the area to be smocked.
or
Knot
the
the threads
bobbin
gathers evenly.
the other
end.
stitch
along
threads
between
NOTE:
Loosen
tension
easier.
one edge.
and distribute
Pull
the
Secure the threads at
Sew the decorative
the
gathering
Pull out the gathering
opemngs.
be used
on
sew rows
space the rows
is formed
blind
tf you
the
to
stitches.
stitches.
top
make
thread
gathering
SECTION
ElasticStretch
Stitch
Top thread tension
corttrol l to 4
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Box Stitching
Sot the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
3.
Stitch
Stitch selector
Stitch length
control yellow
stretch stitch
Stitch selector
Top thread tension
control I to 4
Stitch length
control 1
Use this stitch
position
Y_J
to
loin
heavy
weight
interlining.
Overlap
Zigzag foot
Choose
this stitch
to
attach
elastic
two
use th_s stitch
raw
edges together
and
to join them.
to
garments.
1.
Mark
match
2.
the elastic
these
into
to the
quarters
center
and
front,
center
back
and side seams.
Place
the
middle
of
the
elastic
under
the
center
of
the
presser
foot
sure,
and stitch
the
fabric
into place, making
is evenly
distri-
buted.
33
SECTION4.
PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMSCHART
Whatto Do When
PROBLEM
PROBABLECAUSE
Incorrect
lrregufar
Stitches
CORRECTION
size needle.
Improper
threading,
Loose upper thread tension,
Pulling fabric,
Loose presser foot.
Unevenly
wound bobbin,
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle
Choose correct size needle
Rethread machine.
Bunching
Puckering
Needle
of Thread
Incorrect
setting
plate.
Replace
needle plate,
or polish
off burrs
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently,
Choose correct size needle for thread
Reset needle,
of needle,
completely,
and fabric,
Loose presser foot,
Reset presser foot,
Upper and lower threads not drawn back
under presser foot before starting seam,
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few st'ltchs are
formed,
Incorrect
Reset thread tension(s).
Upper thread and bobbin
tnsert new needle.
thread
tension{s),
Using two different
sizes or kinds
Bent or blunt needle.
Loose presser foot.
Fabric very sheer or very soft,
34
and fabric.
Tighten
upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Reset presser foot.
Rewind bobbin.
Pulilng fabric.
Incorrect size needle.
Breaking
for .thread
of thread,
Reset presser
Use underlay
thread
foot.
of ttssue paper,
should
be same size and kind,
SECTION
Whatto
4.
PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS
CHART
Do When (Continued)
PROBLEM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTION
Incorrect
size needle.
Bent or blunt needte.
Skipping
Breaking
Stitches
Upper
Choose correct size needle for thread
insert new needle.
Reset needle.
Incorrect
setting of needle.
Tight upper thread tens=on.
Loosen upper thread
Starting
to stitch too fast.
improper threading.
Tight upper thread tension.
Incorrect
size needle,
Thread
Nicks or burrs
Breaking
Fabric
Bobbin
Thread
not Moving
at hole of needle
tension.
Start to stitch at a medium
Rethread machine.
speed.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Choose correct size needle for thread
Insert new needle.
Sharp eye in needie.
Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
ptate.
Replace
Replace
and fabric.
and fabric.
shuttle, or polish off burrs compieteiy.
needie plate, or polish off burrs completely.
improper
bobbin case threading.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
Check bobbin case threading.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
Darning plate in place.
Stitch Length set at O,
Thread knotted
under fabric.
Remove darning plate.
Adjust
Stitch Length Control.
Place both threads back under
presser foot
before
beginmng
to stitch.
Machine
Jamming
Knocking
Noise
Thread caught
Lint in bobbin
in shuttle.
case or shuttle,
Disassemble
and clean shuttle.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
35
SECTION
5.
CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb
Cleaning the Machine
To insure that
your
machine
The feed dogs and shuttle
is caught.
Check
and clean those
If you sew frequently,
operates
at its best, you need to keep the essential
race areas can attract
areas about
every three
clean more
often.
dust and lint.
months
under
Your
normal
machine
parts
clean at all times.
can become
slugglsh
or knock
_oudly
if a thread
use.
Clean the Feed Dogs
\
t,
Unplug
the
machine
and open
the
face cover.
CAUTION!
The
light
bulb
will
HOT.
Protect
fingers
when
be
your
,,
handle
it.
bulb
up
you
Follow
these directions:
Unplug
2.
Push
bulb
the
counter-clockwise
and
turn
to
the
remove
it.
3,
Put the new
up and turning
36
the
presser foot
Using
a
screw
needle plate.
bulb
in by pushing
it clockwise.
it
machine.
Remove
and needle.
driver,
2.
Use a lint
dogs,
remove
brush and clean the feed
3,
Replace
needle plate
intoposition.
J
SECTION
= Clean the Shuttle
This
about
area must
every three
Center
ptn
the shutt]e
5.
CARE FOR YOUR
MACHINE
Race
be kept
free
of
dust,
lint
and occasional
tangled
thread.
Clean the
shuttle
race area
months.
o{
Shuttte driver
Lever
Shuttle
Lever
Leve
Shuttle Race
Lever
L
Pointed
(Oil here)
Shuttle
Cover
Race
case
To Clean the Shuttle
1,
2.
3.
Raise
the
Area:
needle
point
and remove
Push
shuttle
bar
To Replace
to
its
the bobbin
race
levers
highest
aside.
race cover and take shuttle
Clean
the
race
with
out.
a
2.
Put a drop
of oif on the center
and
shuttle
over-oil.
shuttle
race.
pin of
shuttle
is forming
Ho_d shuttle
to form
iint
will
the
Assembly:
race
half
as illustrated
so that
moon
left side of the
on the
shuttle
machme.
brush.
4.
Position
driver
Lift
shuttle
shuttle
1,
case.
Shuttle
3.
by center
a half moon
pm and posit=on
shuttle
on the right
side.
P6inted
cover
place
over
so as
hook
be on the bottom.
Place
shuttle
race
into
shuttle
assembly.
Do not
4.
Snap the
levers back into the original
position,
37
SECTION
5,
CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Oiling the Machine
Oil
the
machine
frequently,
sewing
machine
Kenmore
NOTE:
•
m all
oil the
oil.
sewing
Unplug
Oil behind
areas shown
machine
under
One or two
machine
oil
the machine
the Face Cover
on
the
drops
is available
before
this
top
page at least
cover
about
of oil is sufficient,
at your
oiling.
Plate and under
nearest
Remove
once
every
a year;
three
Remove
Sears retail
needle and put
the Arm
Cover Plate
)/Arm
cover plate
otherwise
months,
excess oil,
the
machine
tn case machine
otherwise
can become
sluggish
or will
is not used for an extended
it may stain
knock
time,
Ioudiy.
oil it before
If you use the machine
sewing,
Use good quality
fabric.
store.
needle bar in full
down
position.
e
Oil the Underside
Face cover plate
I
%
Shuttle cover
Open face cover
pfate and/or
remove
in illustration.
Use only
38
a drop
arm cover plate
by loosening
up top
screw
to
oil
points
Open
the
of oil;
do not over-oil.
the
left
remove
shut-t_e cover by pulling
side
bottom
of
the
cover.
cover,
Tilt
Oil po}nts
down
the
the
machine
in illustration.
embossed
head
part on
back
and
PARTSLIST
1
All
3
2
4
5
6
parts
listed herein
WHEN ORDERING
INFORMATION:
may be ordered
REPAIR
from
PARTS,
1. PART NUMBER
3. MODEL NUMBER
any Sears store or service center.
ALWAYS
GIVE
THE
FOLLOWING
2. PART DESCRIPTION
4. NAME OF ITEM
tf the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order w_ll be electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
Ref. No.
8
7
13
17
9
14
10
11
15
19
12
16
20
21
t
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
t5
16
t7
18
19
20
21
*These items
instructions
Description
Part No.
Shuttle
Bobbin
Bobbin
47
6510
*6862
1939
813404013
6551
6552
6553
6554
652508002
648801108
650802003
735503007
6870
593401008
*6757
135
*6864
6797
6830
802424004
820832005
41669
*6889
735801008
are not furnished
above.
case
box with
Bobbin winder
No, 11 Stretch
10 bobbins
rubber ring
fabric needles
(BLU)
No. tl Single needles (ORG}
No. 14 Single needles (RED)
No. 16 Single needles (PUR)
No. 18 Single needles (GRN)
Needle clamp with screw
Sliding buttonhole
foot
Straight
stitch foot
Standard zigzag foot
Satin stitch foot
Zipper foot
Zipper foot
Thumb screw
Needle threader
Light bulb
Buttonhole
Lint brush
Large screw
Small screw
Oil and lint
Darning
with
opener
driver
driver
brush
plate
the machine,
but may be ordered
per
39
INDEX
A
Accessory storage box ...............
Adjusting
stretch stitch balance ......
Applique
.......................
Arm cover plate
.................
2, 6
15
22
3, 38
Feed dogs .................
Foot control
...............
Free arm sewing .................
36
3_4
6
H
Hand wheel ..................
B
Bar tacking ....................
22
Basic zigzag ....................
20
Blind hemming ................
27
Bobbin ..................
3, 8 _ 9, 39
Bobbin case .............
8_9, 37, 39
Bobbin thread .................
t 1_t2
Bobbin winding ..................
8_9
Bobbin winding tension disc ...........
2, 9
Bobbin winding spindle ..............
2, 9
Box stitching ....................
33
Buttonhole
....................
28_29
Buttonhole opener ............
3, 29, 39
Button sewing ....................
23
C
Cabinet
...................
2
Carrying
handle
.........
Changing needle ................
Changing presser foot
................
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race
Clutch knob
..................
Cording
........................
Cornering
guide
.................
3
6
6
:
. , 36_37
3, 8, 9
3t
17
D
Darning ...................
Darning plate .......
19
3, 18 _ t9, 23, 39
E
Elastic stretch stitch ............
Extension table ..............
33
2, 6
3, t6
I
Invisible zipper ................
31
L
Lace work
.................
26
Large screw driver ..............
Light and power switch
............
Light bulb ...................
Lint brush ................
3, 39
3_4
4, 36, 39
3, 36, 39
N
Needle
...............
Needle clamp screw ..........
Needle plate
.................
Needle, thread and fabric chart
3, 6 _ 7, 39
3, 6, 39
2, 36
..........
7
O
Oiling ..................
Overcasting stitch ................
Overcast stretch stitching ............
38
24
25
P
Parts list .....................
Performance
problems
chart
.......
Pine leaf stretch stitching
...........
Plug connector
..................
Portable case ...............
Power switch
- , ..................
Presser foot .......................
Presser foot
leger
................
39
34_35
25
3_4
2
4
3
3, 5
R
F
Fabric,
needle,
thread
and stitch
length chart ........................
Face cover plate ..................
40
7
2, 38
Replacing bobbin case ...........
Reverse stitch control
.............
Rick rack stretch
................
8_9
2, 15
24
S
Satin stitch
Satin stitch
foot
..........
.....................
3, 21 _ 22, 39
21
Seam guides ..................
Sergmg ........................
Sewing light .......................
Shell stitching
.................
Shuttle
...................
Shuttle cover ................
Shuttle race .....................
17
25
4
32
37, 39
2, 8
37
Sliding buttonhole
foot
......
Smafl screw driver ................
Smocking
...................
Spool pin
...................
Stitch tength controf
...............
Stitch selector
...................
Straight stitch
...............
Straight stitch foot ..........
Straight stretch ..................
3, 28 _ 29, 39
3, 39
32
2, 5
2, 14
2, 14
17_18
3, 17_19o 39
19
T
Thread
Thread
Thread
Thread
cutter ....................
guide
............
_ .......
take-up
lever ..............
tensions
..........
Three-step zigzag
................
Topstttching ...............
Top thread
...................
Top thread tension
..............
Top thread tension controi
............
Turn
a square
corner
-
, ..........
2, 5
2
2, 10
12_13
26
18
t0_13
12_13
2
17
Z
Zigzag foot
....
17_20,
Zigzag stitches
..................
Zipper application
..............
Zipper foot
..............
22"27,
32_33,
39
20_26
30_31
3, 30_3t,
39
SETTING
1, You'll
cover,
UP YOUR MACHINE
find
the
Pull up the spool
spool pin
on the
top
pin,
2o Plug
foot
control
into
machine
receptacle,
Then connect
cord into
any 1 !0 _ 120 volt A,C, wall outlet,
3.
Spoof
pfrl@
Your
Kenmore
sewing
machine
has
been thoroughly
oiled at the factory,
Be sure to wipe off the needle plate
area, bed plate and shuttle
carefully
before sewing a garment
practice
on a scrap of
surplus oil is absorbed.
it is wfse to
fabric
so any
STITCH SELECTOR
There are certain types of stitches that are used
more often
than others
in your garment
construction,
Because of their frequent
use, you will
soon realize the convenience
offered
to you by
th_s control
The des{red stitch w{_l be obtained
by turning
the Stitch
Stitch Selector
Selector,
All stitches
printed
in yellow
on the indicator
panel must be sewn with Stitch Length Control
set at _' Stretch position,
_
".-.
iJ'_f
_3
_1
c',=
_:3t "
735813003
CARE
FREE
STITCHING
Periodically
oil
your
mstructton
)
L_
Remove
Fie!
Side
aw_y
I
_Il
_'_
at
polnts
book.
indicated
m
USE
ONLY
KENMORE SEWING MACHINE OIL.
plate.
trom
you
THREADING
TENSION
THREAD
CAN TANGLE
AND SNAP wJthout being seen.
If your
thread breaks, unthread
and then RETHREAD
the machine,
both top
and bottom threads,
TOP
THREADING
Make sure there is no slack or
snags m the thread.
Use the
type of thread and size needle
recommended
In your mstruction
book.
Thread
should
come
off
the back
ot the
BOl'rOM
I. Insert
THREADING
bobbin wlth thread
wound
as shown
grade bobbin onto center pln of bobbin
2, Pull thread through
slot.
3. Pull thread under tension spring.
4, Holding
latch
open, position
case into
and release latch.
and
i:
Compare
your straight
stitching w_th the illustrations.
If it looks like rather
ot the top two, correct the thread tensmn dial as shown.
BE SURE TO NOTE
YOUR
PRESENT
SETTING
BEFORE
YOU START
ADJUSTING.
_!
case,
shuttle,
_lll
spool as shown.
COMPLETING
THREADING
Hold top thread
loosely
=n left hand and rotate
handwheel
toward you one complete turn,
Next,
pult top and bottom
threads under and to the back
of presser foot.
Correct
Stitching
IMPORTANT
For your safety an important
new feature has been incorporated
in this machine.
The light/power
sw_tch provides electric current for the motor as well as the light.
In order to operate the machine this switch must be on.
If you are interrupted
while sewing and must leave the machine unattended,
just
turn off the lighUpower
sw_tch and the machine can not be started accidentally by
pressing on the toot control,
This feature
also apples
when the machine
=sm
i:i:!:!
i,_:_I
1. SELECTOR
i
J
2. LENGTH
CONTROL
l
4. PRESSER
FOOT
2 TO 6
A orC
ORANGE
ZONE
2 TO 5
A
I
1 TO 4
A
1 TO4
A
! TO3
1 TO4
A
1 TO 2
3 TO 9
A
1
1 TO,4
1 TO 3
SHELL
BOX
STRETCH
t
ZONE
(STRETCH)
STRAtGHT
CONTROL
ORANGE
0.5TO
BLIND
3. TENSION
A
V YELLOW
POS_TtON
2 TO 6
AorC
RICK-RACK
YELLOW
POSITION
1 TO 4
A
SMOCKING
T YELLOW
POSITION
1 TO 4
A
OVERCAST
V YELLOW
POSITION
1 TO 4
A
SERGING
V YELLOW
POSITION
1 TO 4
A
ELASTIC
_" YELLOW
POSITION
I TO 4
A
_
I TO .5
E
1 TO
B
BUTTONHOLE
SATIN
DARNING
BLUEZONE
0.5 TO
i
i
4
ANY
NUMBER
! TO 4
ANY
NUMBER
1 TO4
OTHER
SETTING
F
(DARNING
A
PLATE)
F
{DARNING
PLATE)
OPTIONAL
FEET AND ATTACHMENT
(A)
11541,
11682,
12332,
12493,
12712,
12841,
17881,
11551,
12320,
12490,
12541,
12714,
16951,
15841,
16841,
17641,
17922,
17928,
SEWING MACHINE
PART NO.
11581,
12321,
12491,
12581,
12741,
17622,
t9502,
15641,
18841,
19601,
16641,
19150,
SOURCE
17824,
19501,
(C)
Hemmer Foot
214872O00
Watking Foot
941450000
(Even Foot)
Pin-Tuck Foot
941460000
385)
PART DESCRIPTION
200012104
941620000
Gathering Foot
Ruffter
200002008
Piping Foot
200003009
Gathering Foot
200005001
200013105
PimTucking Foot
Hemmer Foot
200027102
Binder Foot
200030108
l/4" Seam Foot
214872000
941620000
Walking Foot
Embroidery Foot
Ruffler
200002008
Piping Foot
200003009
Gathering Foot
200005001
200013105
Pin-Tucking Foot
Hemmer Foot
200027102
Binder Foot
200028103
Roller Foot
200029104
200030108
Teflon Foot
1/4" Seam Foot
200031109
Applique Foot
200032100
Cording Foot
214872000
Watking Foot
654805008
941620000
Embroidery Foot
Ruffler
ML-330555
Elastic
200201009
Piping Foot
200209100
Blind Hem Foot
200210104
Taping
654805008
18836,
MACHINE
(B)
SEWING MACHINE
MODEL NO,
10111,
11607,
12331,
12492,
12641,
12781,
17781,
(SEWING
Foot
Foot With Tape
Reel
200212106
340522N
Cording
Foot
Pearl Sewing
Foot
All parts listed above may be ordered by calling Sears Telepads Center at 1(800)366-7278
When ordering repair parts, always qive the following information
1,
2
3
4
PartNumber (SEECOLUMN B)
Part Description (SEECOLUMN C)
Model Number of Sewing Machine: Example (385, xxxxx)
Nameofltem (SEWtNGMACHINE)
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order wilt be electronically transmitted to the Sears Parts
Distribution Center for expedited handling,
735- 811-001
WARRANTY
FULL
For
25-YEAR
25 years
WARRANTY
from
m the mechanical
ON SEWING
the date of purchase,
components
MACHINE
Sears will,
of the sewing
HEAD
free of charge,
machine
repair
defects
m mater_at
or workmanship
which
appear
head.
_
€
_
FULL
"ff_O
"#
For
#
appear In the
speed control,
#
For
,
two
YEAR
FULL
years
_rom
necessary
WARRANTY
days
_1
ON ELECTRICAL
date
of purchase,
equipment
of
EQUIPMENT
Sears will,
the
sewing
free of
machine,
OF SEWING
charge,
_ncluding
repair
MACHINE
defects
electromc
in materiai
components,
or workmanship
motor,
w_rmg,
which
swttch
and
÷
WARRANTY
from
ON ALL
the date
of
of the sewing
machine,
except
IS AVAILABLE
specific
UNITED
legal rights,
SEARS,
MECHANICAL
free
SERVICE
gives you
AND
Sears will,
operation
IN THE
PARTS
purchase,
for proper
CENTER/DEPARTMENT
This warranty
the
electNcal
90-DAY
90
WARRANTY
BY
RETURNING
THE
of
ADJUSTMENTS
charge,
for normal
SEWING
replace
_1
any
parts
and
prowde
mechanical
serwce
maintenance.
MACHINE
TO THE
NEAREST
SEARS
SERVFCE
STATES.
and you may also have other
ROEBUCK
AND
CO., D/817
WA,
rights which
Hoffman
vary from state to state.
Estates,
IL 60179
_)
1)
÷
SEWING
Now
that
MACHINE
you
or serwce,
have purchased
simply
contact
your
your
Kenmore
nearest
Sewing
Sears Service
Machine,
Center.
should
a need ever exist for repair
Be sure to provide
aH pertinent
parts
facts when
you caU or visit.
The model
your
number
Sewing
WHEN
*MODEL
ot your
Machine.
ORDERtNG
NUMBER
you
Machine
REPAIR
PARTS,
*NAME
OF ITEM
If the
parts
Repatr
Parts Distribution
need
are not
SEARS.
S-385
Sewing
will
be shown
on your
nomenclature
plate on the back of
See page 3 for location.
Center
stocked
ALWAYS
GIVE
THE
FOLLOWING
"PART
DESCRIPTION
locally,
your
order
wilf
INFORMATION:
be electronically
transmitted
to a Sears
for handling.
ROEBUCK
AND
CO., Hoffman
Estates,
IL 60179
Printed in TaJwan
U.S.A.
Part No. 735812002 (_