Download OWNER`_ MANUAL

OWNER'_
MODELS
MANUAL
1274180
385. 1264180
385.
Or
385. 1254180
SEARS. ROEBUCK
AND CO.
Dear Customer;
You
have just {nvested
m a very fine
please pause for a moment
and care for your
Specific
instructions
are g_ven on threading,
the best sewing
Advice
on the operation
the model
results
if you
number
sewing
machine.
read this booklet
Before
which
using your
contains
new
Kenmore
instructions
machine,
on how to operate
machine.
obtain
Please remember,
zigzag
and carefully
and avoid
and care of your
have questions
and seria_ number
tension
adiustments,
unnecessary
machine
about
when
cleamng,
service expense
is always
your
available
machine
oiling,
etc. This will
for conditions
at your
or need parts
beyond
nearest
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record
in space
number
of
provEded
th_s appliance,
are located on the
this booklet.
nomenclature
Model
No. 385.
Retain
these numbers
THIS
MODEL
below
the
The model
model
number
IS A CENTER
and serial
and sofia!
plate_ as _dentified
Serial
for future
number
number
on Page 3 of
No.
reference.
NEEDLE,
LOW
BAR
SEWING
Sears Retail
and servlce_ always
you inquire.
MACHINE.
help you
our control.
Store.
mention
TABLEOFCONTENTS
SECTION
1.
t<NOW YOUR
A Portable
MACHINE
Case or Cabinet
is Available
..........
2
Locate and Identify
the Parts ..............
Identify
the Accessories
.................
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
YOUR
MACHINE
2_3
4
FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machtne ...................
o Plug in the Machine and Switch
o Foot Control Use ...................
5_8
on the Power
.....
Setting Spool Pins ...........................
Adiust the Presser Foot Lever ..........
Free Arm Sewing:
the Removable
Extens}on
Table .....................
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do
..........
Choose Your Needle and Thread
..............
• Check Your Needle ....................
5
5
a
o
o
s Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch
• To Change Your Needle ................
Prepare the Bobbin
....................
a To Remove the Bobbin Case from
o Wind the Bobbin
....................
. tnsert the Bobbin into the Bobbin
SECTION
Length
6
6
Chart
the Machine
Case ...........
....
12
12
t3_15
13
13_14
15
16_17
16_17
o Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread
...............
Adiust the Top Thread Tension
..............
Stitch Selector
....................
17
18_19
20
Stitch Length Controt
......................
Adiusting
Stretch Stitch Balance
................
Reverse Stitch Control
.......................
21
21
21
Starting
22
LEARN
3.
Practical
THE
Stitch
.......................
Chart
...................
SECTION
4.
Turn a Square Corner
...................
Use the Darning Plate
..................
Topstitching
.........................
Left Needle Posltlon
......................
26
27
27
27
PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS
,......
SECTION
5.
CARE
FOR
YOUR
36
37
38
39_40
41_42
43
43
44
44
CHART
What to Do When .......................
45_46
MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb
.................
o Cleaning the Machine
................
o Clean the Feed Dogs ......................
o Clean the Shuttle
Race
...................
o Oil behind the Face Cover Plate .............
o Oil under the Top Cover
.................
o Oil the Underside
.....................
23_25
26_27
26
26
35
36
Sew in a Zipper
......................
Shell Stitching
(Models 12741 and 12641)
..........
Smocking
.......................
Elastic Stretch Stitch (Model 12741 only)
...........
Box Stitching
(Model
12741 only)
............
STITCHES
Straight
Stitches ....................
• Stragith
Stitch
..........
o Use the Seam Guides .......................
o
a
o
Mending
...........................
Overcasting
Stretch
Stitching
................
Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching
(Mode_s 12741 and 12641) ..................
Blind Hemming
....................
Lace Work .......................
Buttonholes
..........................
28
28
29_36
29
30
31
31
32
32
33
34
34
o
o
o
7_8
9_10
1!_12
11
Prepare Your Top Thread ..................
o Thread Your Needle
...................
To Sew
Darnmg
...........................
Straight Stretch
..........................
Zigzag Stitches
....................
o Basic Zigzag ........................
e Satin Stitch
.........................
e Applique
..........................
e Bar Tacking
........................
Monogramming
...................
o Embroidery
..........................
e Sew a Button
.........................
• Overcasting
Stitch ......................
o Rick-Rack
Stretch
......................
47
47_50
47
48
49
49
50
PARTS
LIST
...............................
51
INDEX
......................................
52
A:Portable
A
full
line
nearest
Case OtCabinet
of
Sears
sewing
retail
cabinets
store
or
is Avaiiasie
is available
through
our
:
LoCate and identify
the Parts
at your
general
catalog.
Another
your
option
Kenmore
, , _ buy a Carrying
goes anywhere,
Case , , , then
can be stored
any-
Take-up
Lever
Stitch
Selector
Bobbin Winder Tension Disc
where.
Upper Thread Guide
,..
Top Thread
Tension
Control
Stitch
--__"-_
;__
Control
Stitch
Control
Face Cover Pla_.e
Reverse
Needle Piate
ShuttSe
2
Length
Cover
Top
Thread
Spool
Pins
Cover
\
Thread
Clutch
Knob
Hand
Presser
Fool
Guide
Lever
W heel
Presser Foot
Free Arm
L_gllt and
Power Sw_tet_
Nomenclature
Plate
Ptug Conneclor
Foot
Con_ro_
Thread
Guide
Thread
Guide
Needle
Clamp
Identify
the AcCeSsories
_Bu
__LLarge
tonho[e opener
screw
driver
Slrmgh_
stitch Hoot
\.
Buttonhole
Spool
pm
tell
{_
%_
Zipper
4
fool
/1
Set Up the Machine
= Plug in the Machine
and Switch
o Foot Control Use
on the Power
f-
Power
supply
plug
swRch
\
supply
,
Foot control
Machine
socket
4.
Push the
light
on the power
Machfne
plug
NOTE:
Before
insarUng
machine,
be
SAFETY
the
sure
plug
the
into
power
Your
your
switch
is
OFF,
I.
Check
Volt
2.
your
outlet
to be sure st Is a 110 to 120
AC outlet.
Insert
machine
the
plug
as shown,
into
the
it will
three-prong
only
fit
Insert the power
machine
which
To
interrupted
or
light/power
switch
control
not
operate
is turned
stop
sewing,
to
unless
the
If you
are
on.
turn
prevent
off
the
injury
to
To
regulates
one
supply
plug into
the outlet.
the
speed
at
you sew.
increase
speed,
the ball of your
wil!
switch
foot
The
decrease
gendv
press down
with
foot.
speed,
release
your
foot
control
is sensitive
pres-
sure slightly.
NOTE:
The
foot
will
increase
or
decrease
speed
Practice
on
regulate
your
your
way.
3.
to turn
sewing
machine
socket,
switch
light,
FEATURE:
light/power
children.
and power
and sewing
and
your
_mmed[atety.
a scrap
sewing
taste and needs.
of
fabric
to
speed
to
set Upthe Macine (Continued)
Setting Spool Pins
Adjust
Spool
Spool
Pins are packed
Screw
with
thread
spool
pin
_n accessory
pins
in place
box.
securely
a screw driver.
Position
spool
pin felts
as shown
_n illustra-
The
Presser
your
presser foot.
You
can raise Lt about
removal
Foot
of the
For winding
the
bobbin
is threaded,
you
can use an extra
unthreading
while
your
the macine.
machine
spool
pm
Lever
presser
place heavy fabrics
tion.
without
the Presser Foot Lever
under
raises
and
lowers
1/4"
higher
foot
or to help you
for
the presser foot,
easy
•
Free-Arm
To remove :
To Remove
Sewing:
the Removable
the Extension
Table
1.
Grzp the table with
your
2,
Pull gent_y to the left.
Extension
(for free-arm
index
finger
Table
sewing)
and thumb,
The extension
table wilt snap out,
To Attach:
To Attach
the Extension
Table
(for fiat-bed
1.
Insert the tab and the pm into their
2,
With
your
thumb
and index
finger,
as shown.
sewing)
catches,
gently
snap m.
: setl Up the MaChine (Continued}: ....
=
Free-Arm
Your
sewing
This feature
Sewing
(Continued)
machine
can do free arm sewing.
makes sewing
easy for:
bar
tacking
to
reinforce
pockets.
belt
toops and
waistline
on ready-
made
or
avoid
fabric
needle.
homemade
bunching
garments
to
around
the
*
stitching
sleeves,
legs, or any circutar
waistbands,
garment
pant
area.
*
darning
socks
elbows,
or areas
ren's clothes.
or
mending
of wear
knees,
in child-
*
sewing
bands,
buttons
etc.
on
sleeves,
wrest-
ThePresser
feetarean_mportant
feature
ofth_smachine.
Youneedtoknowwhateach
footdoesinorderto use
a
Change the Presser Foot
Use
the
you
w_sh
Stitch
correct
to
sew.
Chart
detailed
presser
on
foot
for
Consult
pages
directions
various
o
the
23
for
tile
_
Types
Foot
Strmght
and
with
Foot
the
the
presser feet.
Zigzag
Use this
stitching.
Uses:
foot
for
both
Straight
stitchtng
Straight
stretch
Bar tacking
Button
the various
the
presser
foot
foot
thumb
screw,
insert
from
the
lever.
is secure.
feet,
pos_tton
Loosen
choose
bottom.
the large screw
the foot
presser
its highest
the
Tighten
drover
raise the
by lifting
the
proper
the
to make
presser
foot,
screw
certain
(see p. 31),
stretch
Serglng
(see p. 344),
(see p. 366),
{see p. 366).
hemming
Lace work
Smocking
(see p. 377)o
(see p, 38},
Shell stitching
Elastm
(see p. 333),
{see p. 35},
Overcast
Blind
{see p. 26},
(see p. 29),
stretch
Mending
bar to
and
(see p, 2__8),
sewing
Rick-rack
presser
straight
(see p. 27_),
Zigzag stitching
To change
toot
Stralgh[
zigzag
Use this foot
using center
Topst_tchmg
using
effectivefv.
practical
25
sewing
st=tch
Presser Foot
Zigzag
them
(see p, 43),
(see p. 43),
stretch
Box stitching
(see p. 4_44),
(see p. 444).
Uses:
exclusively
for straight
needle position
Straight
stitching
Topstitching
Straight
s[J[ch
only.
(see p. 266),
(see p. 27),
stretch
(see p. 28)
tool
stitching
Know What the Presser Feet Will:Do (Continued)
o
Presser Foot Types (Continued)
Buttonhole
f
Guide
Foot
Zipper
Bu;_onho_e
guide
Satin
Foot
to measure
Uses:
for
your
Buttonhole
buttonholes,
buttonholes
making
Foot
foot
Zipper
Use thts foot
Stitch
it is marked
accurately,
(see p. 39}
This
foot
your
zipper,
zipper
Uses:
toot
can be set to sew on each side of
The edges of the foot
guide the
and keep the seam straight,
Zipper
application
(see p. 41)
Use this
transparent
outlining
applique.
Uses:
Satin
stitch
Applique
foot
(see p, 3_00),
{see p. 31),
Monogramming
10
for satin stitch
(see p. 3_22).
and
Choose Your Needle and Thread
o
Check
choice
in your
of needle and thread
needle case, you will
find
depends
on the fabric
the following
Blue (1 1 ) ...........
for stretch
Orange
for lightweight
(11 ) .......
Red (14)
Purple
............
(16}
Look
for
2.
A damaged
needle
and silk-like
fabrics.
Green
(18)
.......
for
Replacement
Kenmore
needles
buy a good quality
thread.
and consistent
in th=ckness.
It
should
snags or runs in knits,
resist
tangling
fine silks
and be strong,
fabrics
has
topstltching
heavy weight
are available
can cause permanent
weight
weight
and
fabrics
decorative
on these fabrics
needle
stitching
point.
needles:
or medium-heavv
topstitchmg
thicker
or blunt
you are sewing
color-coded
medium-heavv
(This
for barbed
fabrics
for reed;urn
........
Needle
1.
Always
smooth
Your
Your
a larger
thread
hole
for
thread.)
fabrics
and decorative
top-
on these fabrics
at vour
nearest
Sears stores.
11
Choose :Your Needle and Thread (Continued)
Fabric, Needle. Thread and Stitch
FABRIC
Lightwe=ght:
Batiste, Dimity,
Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe_ Taffeta,
Voile,
Organdy
Medium
Weight:
Cotton,
Cotton
Blends,
Percale. Gingham,
Shantung,
Pique,
Seersucker,
Satin. Knits,
Vinyl Suitmgs,
Linen,
Wool Crepe. Leather
Medium
Heavy Weight:
Corduroy,
Denim, Wool,
Sailcloth,
Woo! Flannel,
Gabardine.
Velvets,
Leather
Heavv Weight:
Coatfngs.
Upholstery
Cotton
Duck, Heavv
Twills.
Canvas
Decorative
top.stitching
on all types of fabric
Stretch
Fabrlc;
Polyester
Double Knits,
NvJon Tricot.
Jersey,
Stretch Terry,
Spande×,
Cite Tricot
o To Change Your Needle
Length Chart
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
11*ORANGE
!4.RED
14-RED
or
1B-PURPLE
18-GREEN
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
THREAD
RECOMMENDED
STITCH
LENGTH
SETTING
SIZE
Pofvester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized
Cotton
Silk A
50 Mercer=zed
Cotton
Pc!vaster Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
12
stitches
per
_nch
10 ~ t2 stitches
per inch
50 Mercerzzed
Cotton
Mercerized
Heavy-Duty
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
8 _ 10 stitches
per inch
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
8 stitches
tnch
Buttonhole
Twist
(Use as top thread
6 _ 8 stitches
inch
only)
t
,!
NOTE:
Raise
tion
the
by
needle
turning
bar to
the
Its highest
hand
wheel
positoward
you,
per
I.
Loosen
the
needle
clamp
screw
by turning
it
you,
10 _ 12 stitches
2.
Remove
the needle by pulling
it downward.
per inch
3.
Insert
with
the
new
needle
into
the fiat side away from
the
Push the needle up as far as it will
5,
Tighten
the needle
clamp
from
your
needle
clamp
VOU,
4.
large screwdriver
12
screw
per
toward
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized
Cotton
clamp
F_at
side
away
I rorn
you
11 -BLUE
{STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
with "Q FOOT"
Needle
go,
screw firmly
accessory
with
box.
the
Prepare the Bobbin
o To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Nlachine
o Wind the Bobbin
Release
Remove
the
the
machine
left.
Open
purling
extension
by
the
down
table
pulling
from
it
shuttle
to
the
cover
by
the embossed
part on
To
remove
tle,
pull
Pull
bobb+n
open
bobbin
case from
shut-
latch
of bobbin
case.
case
straight
out
clutch
ctutch
knob
toward
you,
mmde
by
turning
the
the hand wheet
of
shuttle.
the left rode of the cover.
Ra+se needle
bv rotat+ng
to its highest
hand wheel
pos+tlon
toward
you.
!3
.........
i¸¸
iiiii!!
iiiii: i d¸ii
Prepare the Bobbin :(Continued)
= Wind the Bobbin
(Continued)
f
j
/
7
Draw
winder
thread
tension
from
spool
through
disc as shown.
bobbin
Putl
bobbin
end
of
thread
as shown,
through
hole
in
Place
bobbin
spindle
with
the
top
winder
Holding
chine.
snip off
14
of
shaft
onto
When
onto
bobbin
end of thread
the
bobbin.
to
the right
end
coming
Push
end of thread.
from
bobbin
until
of thread,
bobbin
winder
it dicks.
start
is slighttv
mafilled,
Wind
thread
unti!
winder
bobb,,n.
Clip thread.
Tighten
clutch
knob.
stops.
Remove
=
insert the Bobbin
into the Bobbin
Case
\
Place
making
wise
bobbin
bobbin
_n bobbin
sure thread
and
Js
case
feeds clock-
coming
from
Pull thread
as shown,
through
slot
of case
Pull
thread
spring
and through
as shown
above,
under
tension
the opening
Holding
case
into
latch
open.
shuttle
and
positlon
release
Case
should
when
latch
loci<
into
place
is released,
latch.
as shown.
15
Prepare Your Top Thread
€ Thread Your Needle
@
The numbered
Dotted
steps below
lines show
follow
places where
the numbers
the thread
loops
on the illustrations.
and then
is pulled
tight,
2, While
holding
spool,
threading
you
thread
draw
channel
making
_s pulled
near
thread
sure the
firmly
into
toward
thread
between
the
tension discs,
Raise
thread
hand
wheel
on
spool
the spool.
16
take-up
toward
lever
you.
pin as shown,
to
its
Raise
with
highest
presser
thread
foot
coming
position
by turning
_ever, Place spool
from
the
back
of
3, Draw
and
thread
around
as shown.
down
the
channel
spr=ng
wlra
4.
Draw
take-up
thread
lever.
up
& through
i¸i¸i i!ii!!i¸ii
iiiii
i i ii i!iii i!il! =
_EFo1R SE
Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread
\
®
Raise
presser
foot
lever,
Hold
needle
thread
loosely
in left
hand
handwhee!
toward
you
and rotate
one compJete
If you cannot
5,
Draw
thread
down
and
Into
th read gu ida.
6.
Pull
the thread
_t through
7.
Thread
8.
Thread
NOTE:
the thread
then
bar thread
to the left and slip
You
front
want
end of the thread
scissors
for
bobbin
thread
up by pulling
top thread.
3,
Pull
both
back
of
threads
under
and to the
the presser foot,
to 4 inches of thread
leaving 3
clear,
turn,
pick up bobbin
1.
Is needle threaded
2.
Is thread
3.
Are 3 to 4 inches
4,
Is thread
from
5.
Is bobbin
property
6.
Is the machine
tangled
from
thread
front
around
by following
steps gtven above, then
check:
to back?
needle?
of thread
coming
from
the bobbin?
bobbin
tangled?
into needle
guide.
may
Bring
guide,
is slipped
needle from
2,
to
to back.
cut
with
eas_er
installed
threaded
in the bobbin
according
case?
to the instructions?
the
sharp
needle
threading.
17
Adjust the Top Thread Tension i
Choose
Top
side of fabric
the Correct
The best tension
Setting
mark
Tension:
will
depend
on;
the stiffness
and thickness
the number
of fabric
the type
of the fabric
layers
of stitch
f
Loose__
The top thread
_s too _oose.
The top thread
is too tight
Tighten
thread
Top side
of fabric
For Straight
The
ideal
fabric,
if
you
Stitch
straight
as shown
look
gaps. that
stitch
above,
at the
each stitch
When adjusting
thread.
will
have threads
magnified
stitch,
front
_s smooth
top thread
locked
between
the
two
layers
of
The top thread
appears on the
underside
of the
fabric.
to show detail.
and
back,
you
wiJl notice
that
there
are no
and even.
tens,on,
the higher
the number,
the t=ghter
the top
Tension
The
bottom
is too loose:
top
thread
of the
of the stitch
18
The bobbin thread
appears on tile
upper surface ot tile
fabric.
will
Tension
shows
fabric.
through
the
The
The bottom
side
the
feet bumpy.
_s too t_ght:
bobbin
top
the stitch
thread
will
of the fabric.
will
come
The top
feel bumpy.
through
side of
For Zigzag Stitch
In the
correct
zigzag stitch,
fabric
and the
top
the
correct
threads
appearance,
the bobbin
will
To
threads
show slighttv
match
thts
witl
not
show
on the under
appearance,
on top
of the
side, See below
adjust
your
top
for
thread
tension,
Too Tight
Top
Side of Fabr{e
Too
Under
Loose
Just
Side of Fabric
Under
R ight
Side of Fabric
Too
Tight;
Too
Loose:
Just Right:
--
The poants or the
zlgzag
will
pull
together
on top of
the stitch,
--
The
top
thread
will
loop
dlrough
tl_e points
on the
bottom
ot the
stitch
and will be
pulled
almost
togetl_er
_
M in _rn_ze
the
amount
of
top
thread vmible on
tl_e
underside
without
causing
excessive pucker_ng or causing the
bottom
thread
to
show
on the top
side, results vary
with fabric, _hread
and sewing condilions.
19
Stitch Selector
IVlode___l
12741
Model
Se_[mg mark
The
rick
The different
Stretch
NOTE:
20
types
Stitches
not
of stitches
Zigzag and Utility
Buttonhole
Model
Setting mark
stitch
selector
control
rack stretch stitches.
Straight,
12641
onty
determines
are designated
Stitches
the
statch
you
12541
Setting rnarkx.Nk
select,
but
also regulates
the stitch
width
for regular
by cotor.
are orange.
are gold.
Settings
To avoid
are biue.
needle
or fabrtc
damage,
be sure your
needle
is up and out of fabric
when
adjusting
this control.
zigzag
and
Stitch
The
length
stitch
Length Controt
8 12240
i
i
length
of the
The htgher
6
control
regulates
Adjusting
Balance
the
stitch.
the number,
stitch.
0 means no feed.
the shorter
the
Stretch Stitch
in stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length
Control
should
be tn the detent
position between
S and L ( v position)
for
most
materials.
Depending
upon the
type of fabnc used, you may need to
adiust th_s control
to match
forward
stttches of stretch
sewing with reverse
motion
stitches.
To shorten
stretch
stitches,
turn
the control
slightly
toward
"S", To lengthen,
turn toward
Reverse Stitch Control
To reverse
stitch,
trot during
sewing.
Release
hold
to sew forward
down
this
con.
again.
"L"
SooVooL
Smock
ing
Rlckrack
stretch
stretch
21
Starting
Now
To Sew
that
Kenmore
1.
you
are familiar
sewing
Inspect
afraid
with
machine,
the needle.
to change
the
Below
It should
your
controls
on your
are some good
be straight,
needle
frequently,
machine
habits
properly
Many
and with
to foNow
the accessories
each time you sit down
set and sharp
of the new fabrics
on the
point.
provided
It should
made of synthetic
for the machine,
you
are readv
to start to sew with
your
new
to sew:
be the correct
blends tend
todull
size for the fabric
the needles
more
and thread
easily
than
being used. Do not
fabrics
be
made of natural
fibers.
2.
3,
Before
placing
during
the sewing
Test the
suitable
4.
Fabric
machine
to your
should
seam marking
22
the material
on the machine,
see that
the ends of the threads
of the first 3 or 4 stitches
of the seam.
stitch
you
on a scrap of fabric
plan to use, The fabric
have been drawn
should
be double
about
thickness.
4 inches to the rear of the machine.
Adjust
the machine
for the tength
Hold
on to threads
of stitch
and tension
placed
on the 5/8"
fabric.
be placed
under
the
presser foot
on the needle plate when
5.
Run the machine
at a slow
6.
Fasten
each seam by back tacking
7,
Always
finish
8.
Guide
g.
When turning
sewing
the fabric
gently
making
with
even speed, The more
with
the hand wheel
your
to the left of the needle and the right
edge of the material
seam,
pressure you
at the beginning
each seam with
the bull< of the material
a simple
put on the foot
control
the faster
the machine
will
sew.
and end of the seam.
the needle at its h_ghest point.
hand
manually,
in front
of the needle.
Never
always
turn
you.
it toward
pull
or hold the fabric
in such a way
that
the normal
feeding
is altered.
Stitch
STRAIGHT
STRAIGHT
STRETCH
Stitch
Selecto r
(_
Foot
Straight
Zigzag
Straight
Zigzag
IH
Other
Attach.
Needle
Thread
Tens=on
Stttch
Length
Darmng
plate
Check
Chart
on p. 12
2 _ 6
6 _ 12
Regular
mvmible
Check
Chart
on p. !22
2~6
Sv
Use on kn_ts and other
for topst_tchmg,
2-5
ZIGZAG
Zigzag
Check
Chert
on p. 12
RICK-RACK
STRETCH
Zigzag
Check
Chart
on p. l!
MENDING
Zigzag
Check
Chart
L
6 _ 24
BY
1~4
Uses
L
Btue Zone
24
seams, zippers, topstitchlng,
z_pper, cording, etc.
Finish edges buttons,
monogram,
embroider,
Decorate
Use
for
Refer to Page
garments
finishing
with
seams.
stretch
fabrics,
darning,
26 _ 28
41 ~ 43
good
28
satin stitch, applique,
sewing bar tacks.
one row or severe!.
29 ~ 34
34
35
on po I_&2
23
Practical Stitch Chart (Continued)
Stitch
Stitch
Selector
SMOCKING
STITCH
Foot
Zigzag
BLIND HEM
STITCH
Zigzag
Other
Attach.
Needle
Check
Chart
on p. 12
Cheek
Chart
Thread
Tens=on
1 _ 4
Stitch
Length
S
Uses
V
L
Use m smocking
Refer
or as e decorat=ee
stitch,
to Page
43
,
l_4
8 ~ 24
Use for woven
overcasting,
Check
Chart
on p. 12
_4
8 _ 24
Wide bIind
Lace work
linens.
Check
Chart
on p. 12
1_4
fabrics:
btind
hem and
37
on p, 12
BLIND HEM
STITCH
(STRETCH)
OVERCAST
ST R ETCH
BUTTONHOLE
Zigzag
,[3
Buttonhole
Check
Chart
on p, 1:2
24
S v
L
Btue Zone
hem wlth elatJclty.
on blouses, lingerie
37 _ 38
arid table
Use for sw_mwear, sk_ pants and other
garments
that require stretch.
Buttonholes:
atso corded buttonholes,
36
39 ~ 40
Practical Stitch Chart (Continued)
Stitch
Selector
Stitch
SATIN
STITCH
Foot
Other
Attach.
Satin
Needle
Check
Chart
Thread
Tensmn
1_4
Stitch
Length
Blue
Uses
Zone
on p. 1_22
SHELL
STITCH
(Models1241and
12642)
Zigzag
Check
Chart
on p. 1_22
3~9
I2 _ 24
Zigzag
Blue (11
onp. 12
!_4
S
BOX
STITCHING
{Model
12741 ontV)
Zigzag
Check
Chart
ELASTIC
STRETCH
(Model 12741
Zigzag
SERGING
(Models 12741
12642)
and
onlvl
'v
L
24
Refer to Page
Use for applique
work, also as decorative
fimsh for placemats,
blankets,
collars,
cuffs and pockets.
30 _ 31
Fimsh hems, sleeve and neck opemngs.
Usa on nylon tricot and other lingerie to
overcast and seam,
Do shell _uckmg on blouses and lingerie,
43
Use
36
for
swJmwear
and
Use for overlapping
stretch
velour.
seams.
44
on p. !1
Use paper
underneath
Check
Chart
on p. 122
1_4
S
V
L
Use tor apptymg
elastic.
44
J
25
Straight Stitches
Straight
Stitch
Use the Seam Guides
Set the Machine
St Itch sr_lector
U
Cornering
Stitch length
control 6 to 12
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
The
Before
/S_
foot,
sewing
with
set to the center
I.
2.
Straight
toot
Zigzag
toot
the
straight
be sure the stitch
stitch
selector
dial
7.
is
the
needle
its
Place
to
9.
the
edge
a stitching
needle
plate
of
the fabric
guide
line
(5/8"
of the seam, you
press the reverse
Raise the presser
the fabNc+
highest
pos_t_on.
3.
to
may
lever to
lock the stitch,
8.
to
the end
want
needle position,
Raise the presser foot.
Rinse
At
foot
Guide
seam
are there
width.
guides
to
on the
help
you
needle
plate
measure
seam
The lines are 1/8"
the 5/8"
and 7/8"
apart,
with
lines marked.
and remove
o Turn a Square Corner
Cut the threads,
next
on
the
is the
most
towards
the
common}.
NOTE_
Best
sewing
obtained
results
with
stitch
foot,
foot
will
acceptable
the
but
also
results.
the
are
strmght
4.
zigzag
provide
Draw
back
the
5.
Press the foot
6.
Hold
the fabric
guide
that
Do
pull
threads
and lower
it
along
the presser foot.
To turn
control.
fabric
loosely
the
and gently
guide
line,
so
or try
to
1,
it feeds naturally.
not
force
it t_ght.
the fabric
a square
Stop
stitching
by
turmng
toward
you
when
facing
you
lines
Raise
the
Lower
stitching
26
from
the
lower
hand
the
fabric
up
w_th
the
wheel
edge
the
guide, as shown.
the
fabric
the 5/8"
3.
5/8"
and
needle
cornering
2,
corner
edge:
presser
foot
and
turn
to
the
edge
with
foot
and begin
line
seam guide.
the
presser
m the new direction.
a
Use the Darning
Plate
Top stitch i ng
Left
Needle Position
f
Set tile Machine
Stitch selector
Sometimes
when
to controt
the fabric
The
Darning
so that
they
you
Plate
you
want
Stitch fength con_.ro{
6to t2
Vouself.
covers the feed dogs
do not touch
To Put on the Darning
NOTE:
sew,
O
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Stitch Setector
Here's How
,"./-
the fabric.
Before
Plate:
foot.
The rectangular
holes in the
Darning
match
Plate
holes
in the needle
the
darning
these
to
the left
holes are slightly
1.
Straight
In
plate,
Zigzag
toot
Position
the
darning
plate
2_
2.
Fit
the darning
needte
wilt
plate
show
holes.
The feed dogs
the
darning
plate holes.
Use the darning
ways:
Darning
Button
3.
_n the
foflowing
(P. 2__88)
Sewing
and
TopstJtchmg
your
Keep the
the
Evenly
edge
Its Uses
emphasizes
garment
and
keeps
the
lines
ts
position.
edge of
right
edge
guide
the
the fabric
of
the
next
presser
to
seams
two
outer
suits
rows
of
or blouses
topstitchmg
edges of cuffs,
w_th
produce
3/8"
fabric
along
an even
from
this
row
of
the edge.
and
one
around
or
the
NOTE:
Use
Left
Needle
control
while
You can easily adiust your
needle from left to rtght for
stitching
difficult
topstitching
without
NOTE:
your
from
of
edges flat and crisp.
Accent
plate
dial
the presser foot.
topstitching
the
needle
stitch
selector
foot.
The Stitch
plate pins into
througl_
Lower
to
with
the pins on the bottom,
the straight
loot
of center,
1,
with
set to the center
the
plate.
sewing
be sure the stitch
fabric
zigzag presser foot.
moving
under
the
Position
topstttchmg
for
or
more
edge
fabrics,
Use
ontv
foot
for
zigzag
presser
Left
Needle
Sewing,
lapels or collars.
(P_ 333)
27
Darning
Straight Stretch
Set the Machine
Stitch
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Set the Machine
selector
Stltc_
Stitch length
Any number
{not necessary
tO adiust)
Stitch
Here's How
1.
No presser
Put
control
the
darmng
plate
over
the
needle
(eng th
tension
2 [o 6
_j_m_/.._L_
plate
(see p. 27),
tOO[
Darning
thread
Top
selector
pJate
2.
3,
4,
Remove
presser
foot,
embroidery
hoops
Draw
the
bobbin
fabric
by holding
one
stitch
start
darntng.
Lower
at
the
stretch
with
thread
the
the
fabnc
Straight _oot
between
top
spot
up
through
thread
and
where
vou
the
Stretch
stitching
was developed
to be used on stretch fabrics and
taking
wish
to
The
presser
bar
and
sew
at
a slow
speed.
This
the
5.
Move
you
6.
the fabric
have covered
Turn
the
stitching
NOTE:
fabric
back
over the first
If
your
damaged,
under
and forth
the darmng
and
Zigzag toot
hole centered.
sew
slowly
until
area,
layer
of
laver,
fabric
is
use a separate
stitch
straight
ed for knits
This
another
Stitch
stitch
topstitching
and Its Uses
m the
stitch,
and
stretch
especially
stretch
can
variatEon
of
develop.
fabrics,
also
on aH fabrics.
be
used
for
knits.
!t
fabrics
as well,
seams
garments
that
deal
strmn
thin
or
badfv
piece of fabric
it,
plate.
28
darmng,
remove
the darning
and
will
well on
on
receive
{ie.
any
a great
chi|dren's
clothes),
The
stretch
actually
the hole to reinforce
When you finish
of
on other
it works
curved
sewn,
but
is
stitched
back
called
stitch),
g_ve when
the
does
as it
and
(sometimes
mstead
stitch
stretch
forward
action"
7.
can be used
a
so that
fabric
of breaking.
not
is being
In
a
motion
"reverseJt will
stretches
Zigzag Stitches
Basic Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch
setector
Stitch length
6 to 24
Top
thread
tension
control
2 to 5
Here's
How
There are many
Consult
Zigzag foot
Satin
the specific
Stitch
AppLique
The Stitch
The
zigzag
common
your
for
and its Uses
stitch
sewmg
the
It can be a utilitv
buttons,
buttonholes,
overcasting,
ing,
it
with
trims,
can
mending
a_so be used
appliques
or as a decorative
Adiust
of
the
stitch
p. 32,
p. 33,
p. 34.
on
stitch
hem-
and
to
p. 31.
most
and most versatile stitches
machine,
ming,
is one
directions.
p. 3__2,
Sewing
Overcasting
for detailed
p. 3_]1.
Monogramming
Em broidery
varfat_ons
p. 3__00.
Work
Bar Tacking
Button
ways to sew a zfgzag stitch.
darn-
decorate
and cut-out
work
stitch.
width
as desired
(seep. 2£01.
29
SECTION
=
Satin
N THE
STITC
Stitch
Zigzag width
f
Set the Machine
length :
Stitch
24
selector
[
Top
12
thread
control
Stitch length
Blue zone
tension
I to 4
The Stitch
and Its Uses
The Satin
stitch
used decorative
is a versatile
stitch,
and often
but it can also
be used to overcast
a raw edge (for ex-
ample,
linens,
bJankets,
tablecloths
and napkins).
The Satin
in applique.
3O
:
Ststch
stitch
is especially
attractive
Close
to 0
Here's
How
Once
vour
machine
is set up to stitch,
of the fabric you are planning
weight fabrics.
Otherwise,
stitch
as usual.
vou may want
to use. Too tight
a satin
to experiment
stitch
on a fragment
may pucker
some light
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
=
Applique
=
Set the Machine
Bar Tacking
/
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
!
Stitch
Top threadtension
Stitch selector
length
Stitch
Biue Zonec_=:tto 2_
Top thread tension
control
CoP, tFOI 1 to 4
_.J_
_°_
Baste
{or
Ioiner)
appiique
Stitch
sure
Sattr_
sUtch
toot
fuse
around
the
with
_romon
pieces
on
the
needle
atong
fabric
This stitch
is stmilar
satin
stitch
and
making
points
of
pockets
and straps on lingerie.
the
outer
Zigzag foot
edge of the applique.
When
sewing
down
into
foot and
or left.
corners,
the fabric.
pivot
the
4
fabric,
the
applique
falls
I to
le_g tl'_
Blue zone¢::?
strain
to
a very
[s used
such
to
short
reinforce
as corners
or
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches,
lower
the needle
Raise the presser
fabric
to the
right
31
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
o
Monogramming
o
Set the Math+he
St+tch
Embroidery
Set the Machine
selector
!
Top thread tecs_on
¢ontro_
] to 4
Top thread tens+on
contro+ + to 4
Stitch length
0 to 24
!
Stitch
lenglh
Any number
(not
necessary
toadiust)
Here's How
I
Here's How
Sa_+n
stitch
1.
Set the same as satin
2.
Back
the
fabric
stitch,
with
paper
or
No presser
toot
interfacing.
foot
3,
Draw
with
4.
the
demgn
tailor's
on
to the fabr+c
Darmng
C
plate
1.
Remove
presser foot.
3.
Adiust
the
stLtch
width
stitch+
adjusting
width
as necessary
to
the
form
4.
Draw the demgn on to the fabric
tailor's chalk+
5.
Stretch
stitch
each
the
embroiderv
If us+ng paper,
carefully
you have finished
remove
sewing.
it
fabric
hoops
w+th
between
and
place
under
the needle.
6.
Lower
the
presser
engage the top thread
7,
Hotd_ng
hand,
Pull
the
top
thread
the
hand
the
bobbin
surface
8+
Using
the
fabric
foot
top
lever
to
tension.
rotate
vou one complete
32
as desired
(see p. 200).
chalk.
Satin
when
plate over the needle
(see p. 27).
2.
pattern,
5.
Put the darning
plate
in your
wheel
left
toward
turn,
thread
thread
to
through
draw
to
the
the
of the fabric.
a medium
marked
carefultv
speed,
outline,
by hand.
stitch
guiding
along
the
o
Sewa
Button
Set the Machine
St _[chselector
I
"Top thread tension
control I [o 4
Stitch length
Any number
_,oadiusd
(not necessary
Z_gzag foot
"i__
Use the darning plate for button sewing (see p, 27),
To
1,
Set the pattern
selector
threads
2.
Align
holes of the button
the both
hote of the button
Darning plate
3.
4.
5.
iust below
Lower
the
comes
iust above the right
Sew about
Set the
thread.
foot
at "
five
pattern
and turn
stitches
setector
the
@
"
with
the needle
pattern
the slot of the foot
and place the left
point,
selector
the
hole
strengthen
leawng
the
shank,
a 8 inches
cut
tail.
needle
thread
down
in the
button
and wind
through
the
Bring
the
it around
the shank.
to zigzag untit
the needle
point
hote of the button.
Draw
the
thread
to the underside
and
knot
and raise needle.
at "
@
" again and sew a few stitches
to
tock
33
Zigzag Stitches
= Overcasting
(Continued)
Stitch
o
Rick-Rack
Set the M_chme
Stretch
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
I
Stitch
setector
Stitch leoglh
Top thread tension
controt ! to 4
Zigzag
12 to 24
Top thread tension
._
@
foot
Helpful
Start
raw
right
up
Hints
This
and Its Uses
zigzag
garment
variation
]s very
construction
raw edges of any sewing
34
and
useful
_n finishing
proiect.
in
The Stitch
overcasting
corner
about
of your
1/8"
the
inside the
seam. If you
at the edge, the fabnc
and
tangled.
The Stitch
Stich length
stitches
will
will
control
I to 4
start
bunch
become
__
and Its Uses
Sew on stretch
fabrics
In any area that
you m_ght use a zigzag stttch.
Zigzag toot
This
stitch
top stttch
can be used as a decorative
as well.
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
Mending
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
Top
thread
selector
length
Blue ZoneC::tto
tension
24
control 1 to 4
Seam Finishing
Place the
so that
the right
Mending
fabric
under
the edge wilt
hand
the presser
be slightly
foot
inside
Position
that
the
tear under
the stitching
wil[
the
catch
needle
both
so
sides.
side of the presser foot,
Zigzag foot
The Stitch
The
three-step
zigzag
three-step
would
basic
strength,
than a regular
The three-step
ly useful
work
fall
at the edge of the fabric.
so the
right
hand
is a combination
stitch.
You may use
z_gzag everywhere
use the
has more
flatter
the
stitches
and Its Uses
zigzag and straight
the
Guide
zigzag
you
stitch.
elastimty,
and
It
is
zigzag.
z_gzag stitch
Is especial-
for:
--
mending
--
sewing
securely.
patches
--
repairing
straight
--
finishing
seams,
smoothly
and
tears,
35
: i!iiiil iii!
ii! !i i i i ! ii i
Overcast
Stretch
Stitching
Serging
Setthe Machine
or Pine Leaf Stretch
Stitchim
(Models
12741
and 12641 )
Set the Machine
Sl=tCh selector
St}tct_
control 1 to 4
Stitch Iength
_L
length
...._._.4_
Top _flreed tension
control 1 to 4
-,,
Here's How
Place
the
the
LEFT
Stitch
Zigzag loot
Here's How
raw
edge
of
of the needle
so the needle
lust short
seam.
then
fabric
fabric
thin
to
Place the fabric
foot
so that the
as shown.
pierces
of the outside
Or, place your
the
the fabric
over the edge.
Zigzag foot
edge.
to ailow
seam
Or, piece
seam,
a 5/8"
NOTE:
The Stitch
Th_s
stitch
seam with
and its Uses
can
finish.
is formed
and
seam
one
operat_om
It
VOU are making
36
be used for
an overcast
The
and
other
stretch.
can
sewing
a
finished
m
swimwear,
that
ski
pants
require
overcast
to
garments
prevent
further
raveling.
NOTE:
can be used when
garments
be
edges of older
The
Stitch
Use
Use
a blue
stretch
needle,
which
prevents
skipped
fabric
effectively
stitches.
your
then
fabric
tr_m
to allow
seam
a 5/8"
allowance
after.
allowance
after.
Raw or worn
under the presser
stitches
are made
narrow
press
seams
this
Its Uses
stitch
seam that
open
on
heavyweight
want
and
you
you
do not
flat.
It
knits
or
woven
a narrow
for making
when
_s ideal
on
fabrics
seam.
elastic
swim
It
want
a
need to
for
1/4 ,°
medium
to
where
vou
is also great
wear,
When
using
fabric,
use a blue
stretch
fabric
needle
effectively
skipped
kmt
stretch
which
prevents
stretches,
Blind Hemming
Set the Machine
Stitch
selector
L_ght
Weight
Fabric
Top
thread
control
tension
1 to 4
1/8"to
114"
Stitch length
Heavv
Weight
Fabric
There
are two
blind
wider
and will
"give"
1.
Finish
2.
Measure,
NOTE:
Set the Machine
3.
St=rob selector
4.
_
{Stretch}
5.
the
hem)
Stitch
machine.
(under
under
hemming,
The stretch
blind
hem is used for woven
fabrics.
The stretch
blind
hem is
fabrics.
hem any way you desire.
fabrics
of the finished
iust catch
The regular
(See Overcasting,
p. 3__441
hem and pin.
weight
material
Place garment
NOTE;
Top thread tension
control
1 to 4
turn up your
For light
Fold
After
on your
and _sused for kmt and stretch
the raw edge of your
blind
should
hem stitches
you may need a double
side out}
press both
blind
on the edge to be stitched,
as shown,
leaving
1/8"
(regular
blind
hem)
to 1/4"
(stretch
hem edge showing.
presser foot
the fold
fold.
in such a manner
that
straight
stitches
will
be sewn on extended
edge.
The zigzag stitch
of the garment.
sides of the finished
hem stitch
hem.
also can be used for
The top
side of the garment
Lace Work.
wilf show only
the blind
stitches.
(See p. 3_88)
length
2_8 to
_Z_gzag
foot
37
;ECTION
LaceWork
Set the Machina
Stitch
Top thread tension
controt I to 4
selector
Stitch length
24
Zigzag foot
Lace
to
a fanciful,
and
femtnine
lingerte.
and
pillows
become
when
trimmed
with
Turn
raw edge of
1/2".
Place
stitch
using stretch
Trim
38
adds
blouses
more
linens
elegant
]ace.
fabric
under
lace underneath
excess fabric
touch
Table
blind
at least
and
hem stitch.
close to stitching,
top-
Buttonholes
Set the Machine
Shtch
,D
selector
1
2 _4"
4
Stitch
tength
Blue Zone G:::/
0
Top thread tension
controt ] to 5
1. a. Carefulfy
b. Change
foot.
c, insert
£_%ttonhole
mark
length on your
foot
guide foot
to
the
the
buttonhole
2. a. Move
garment,
buttonhole
the
so that
slider
guide
with
ing running
garment
the
under
buttonhole
toward
you,
foot
the
(A)
Depending
own
upon
the
markings
with
the
top
may
alter
density
in
1.
For
less
toward
2.
For
toward
NOTE:
blue
length
density,
density,
buttonhole
dial.
turn
the
diat
turn
the
dial
"0",
Always
make
tonhole
on a scrap fabric
plan
use to find
to
suitable
front
the
on your
until
marking
of
at tiE]
,
you reach the
your
button-
hole.
mark-
c.
Stop sewing
at the left stitch,
c.
Lower
the presser foot.
The
markings
on
the
slider
m centimeters.
you
stitch
"24"
more
b, Sew forward
(B),
on
selector
or your
buttonhole
the
range on the stitch
fabric
buttonholes,
the
within
mark
3. a. Set the stitch
Density
your
preference
mark
up
are engraved
the Stitch
you
{C) on the
garment.
NOTE:
Adjusting
toward
marl{
meets the start
b. Line
the
slider
the top
stitch
a practice
length.
butyou
the more
@
@
Fine
Coarse
stitches
lot heavv
tabrics
_
\
_
for
light
stitches
labncs
/
@
39
Buttonholes (Continued)
4, a. Set the stitch
selector
at _"_14
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches.
c,
Stop sewing
at the rtght
stitch.
5, a, Set the stitch
b, Sew until you
the buttonhole.
c. Stop sewing
4O
selector
reach
at
the
at the right
[_L
back of
6.
a. Set the stitch
selector
at=_.
7. Remove
open with
b, Sew 4 to 6 stitches,
your
c,
stitch,
Stop sewing
at the left
stitch,
the fabric
and cut the hole
the buttonhole
accessory
box,
opener
in
Sew
in a Zipper:
Set the Machme
St=tch selector
Zipper
ot
Top
thread
tenstot_
control
3 tO 6
tape
openmg
Stitch length
12
Top edge of fabric
Fabric
Put the top
and
To Sew:
Preparation:
sew
opemng,
sides of the fabric
to
the
end
Use the
of
reverse
the
together
1.
2,
stitches.
Sew
length
at "3",
back
Turn
the left seam allowance
zipper
at "6"
opening
and
top
wroth stitch
thread
tension
3.
Place
1/8"
under
the
r_ght seam allow-
a 1/8"
5,
next
Lower
foot
the zipper
s_de at the
fold,
the z_pper teeth
fotd
left side of the ztpper,
on the left side
of the needle.
ance to form
the
To sew the
set the zipper
as shown.
zipper
to iock the
Fold
4.
so that
to the
foot
bottom
on the right
of
the
the needle pierces
and the zipper
zipper
the fold
tape.
and pin m place,
6.
Sew through
the
fold
per
the
point
tape
slider
7,
Lower
to
and the zipwhere
the
begins,
the needle
to
hold the fab-
ric and raise the presser foot.
41
Sew in a Zipper (Continued)
J
8.
9,
Open the zipper.
Lower
the presser
10,
foot
and stitch
Close
the
fabric
top
zipper
and
turn
the
I1,
side up.
the rest of the seam.
12.
To sew the
right
side of the needle.
Stitch
across
AND
CORDING
guide
INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
CORDING
Foot can also be used to make cording
for slip*
covers etc, Cover a cord with
8 strip of b_as
fabric and sew as shown.
NOTE'.
Use "Low
Bar Sewing
{6757)
for "qnvlsib|e
which can be obtained
42
and
the zip-
foot
on
the
the
the
bot-
and
foot
along
continue
the
to
zipper
Machine
ZIPPER
FOOT"
z_pper'" and "cording",
at any Sears retait store.
Stitch
zipper
through
tape,
Lower
the
needle
Remove
the
basting
fabric
and
the
fabric
foot,
stitches
and
open the ztpper.
17,
Lower
the
foot
and stitch
of the seam, Make
the
into
and raise the presser
16,
corner
the
14. Stop about 2" from the top of the
z!pper.
15,
below
teeth_ as shown,
Adiust the toot so the needle _ssewing through
the center hole ot the foot and one 8roove of
the foot ts riding on the teeth of the zipper as
shown.
Follow
the
zipper
manufacturer's
instructfons, After zipper has been inserted, f_nish
sewing seam by shifting foot to side pos_tlon
sewing through side notch,
\
zipper
of the z_pper.
13, Turn
ZIPPER
the
side of
set
tom
INVISIBLE
right
per,
even.
the rest
sure the fold
Is
Shell Stitch ing (M odels 12741 and ;12641)
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
1
Stitch selector
0
!
Strtch length
t 2 to 24
Top thread tension
control
Top
Here's How
3 to 9
1.
thread
control
ter_sJon
Stitch length
I to 4
For best effect---set
the
stitch
length
as you
desire,
--you
Zigzag
may need to tighten
foot
top thread
--allow
tension
the
needle
clear the fotded
fabric
2,
The Stitch
blind
rows of
tucks.
Shell
Stitch
hem
is formed
over folded
shell
stitching
tucking
linger_e,
a
Several
shell
You
can sew Shell
soft silky
wovens
to
Zigzag foot
just
edge of the
it zigzags.
of shell
1/2"
Stitch
stitches,
apart,
on knits
in any direction.
With
can
be used
can
tucks
finish
openings,
be used
on
to
to
blouses
the
straight
or
apart
stitch
length
stitching
lines
across
Knot
the
the
stitch
along
threads
evenly,.
other
Sew
the
and
NOTE;
Loosen
tensEon
(1
cm)
one edge,
Pull
the
the threads
the
at
decorative
stitches.
stitches.
tile
to
sew
be smocked,
gathering
Pull out the gathering
create
"6"_
and distribute
Secure
end.
between
at
3/8"
area to
the threads
bobbin
gathers
the
stitching
scalloped
by sewing
fabric.
are called
hems_ s_eeve and neck
She_!
sew rows
space the rows
and Its Uses
The Shell
tf you
when
the
slightly,
top
make
thread
gathering
easier.
43
Elastic Stretch Stitch
(Model 12741 only)
Box Stitching
eon[roI
thread
ten_;_on
S[_[eh
12741 only)
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Top
(Model
Too
length
thread
control
i [0 4
Stitch
selec[or
Stitch
length
tension!
1 to 4
Use
this
stitch
to
[am
heavy
weight
interlining.
Zigzag foot
Zigzag
Choose
tf_ls stitch
to
attach
elastic
to
garments.
1.
2.
Mark
to
quarters
center
back and stale seams,
Place
the
m_ddle
of
the
elastic
under
the
center
of
the
presser
place,
malqng
foot
and stitch
sure
the
elastic
the
into
center
and
these
buted.
44
the eSastlc into
match
_s evenly
front,
distr,-
Too_
Overlap
two
use this
stitch
raw
edges together
to Iota them.
and
What to Do When
PROBLEM
i
i
PROBABLE
Incorrect
irregular
Stitches
Needle
CORRECTION
size needle.
Choose correct
size needle for thread
Rethread machine.
Improper
threading.
Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric.
Loose presser foot.
Unevenly
wound bobbin,
Nicks
Breaking
CAUSE
or burrs
Tighten
at hole of needle plate.
Pulling fabric.
Incorrect
size needle.
Puckering
of Thread
Upper
and lower
under
presser foot
threads
before
thread
Replace
tension.
guide it gently.
needle plate,
or polish
off
burrs
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Choose correct size needle for thread
Reset needle.
Incorrect
setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.
Bunching
upper
Do not pull fabric;
Reset presser foot.
Rewind bobbin.
and fabric.
completely.
and fabric+
Reset presser foot.
not drawn
starting
Incorrect
thread tension(s).
Using two different
sizes or kinds
Bent or blunt needle.
Loose presser foot.
Fabric too sheer or too soft.
back
seam.
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads
back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few
formed.
of thread.
Reset thread tension(s).
Upper thread and bobbin
Insert new needle.
thread
should
under and
stitches are
be same size and kind.
Reset presser foot.
Use underlay
of tissue paper.
45
What to Do When (Continued)
PROBLEM
Skipping
PROBABLE
Stitches
Breaking
Upper
Thread
Fabric
Machine
46
Bobbin
not
Thread
Mowng
Jamming
Knocking
Noise
!
CORRECTION
Incorrect
s_ze needle.
Certain knits and synthetics.
Bent or blunt needle,
Incorrect
setting of needle,
Tight upper thread tension.
Choose correct size needle for thread
Use "Q NEEDLE'/.,
insert new needle,
Reset needle.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Starting to stitch too fast.
Improper
threading.
Tight upper thread tension.
Incorrect
s_ze needle.
Sharp eve in needle.
Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
Start to stitch at a medium
Rethread machine.
Nicks
Breaking
CAUSE
or burrs
at hole of needle plate.
speed,
Loosen upper thread tension.
Choose correct size needle for thread
Insert new needle.
Replace
Replace
Check bobbin case threading.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
Darmng
Remove
in place.
darning
plate.
Stitch Length set at 0.
Thread knotted
under fabnc.
Adiust St{tch Length Control.
Place both threads back under
to stitch.
Thread caught
Lint m bobbin
Disassemble
and clean shuttle.
Ctean bobbin case and shuttle,
in shuttle.
case or shuttle.
and fabric,
shuttle, or polish off burrs completely.
needle plate, or polish off burrs completely,
Improper
bobbin case threading.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle,
ptate
and fabric.
presser
foot
before
beginning
Replace the Light Bulb
Cleaning the Machine
To insure that
your machine
The feed dogs and shuttle
operates at its best, VOU need to keep the essential
race areas can attract
dust and lint.
Your
machine
parts clean at all times.
can become
sluggfsh
or knock
loudly
if a thread
Is caught.
Check
and clean
those areas about
If you sew frequently,
NOTE:
i
Unplug
machine
befor
every three
months
under
normal
use.
often.
cleaning.
t
o
1.
Unplug
clean more
the
machine
Clean the Feed Dogs
and open the
face cover.
CAUTION!
The
tight
HOT,
fingers
handle
bulb
will
/
be
Protect
your
when
you
Follow
1.
2.
Push
bulb
the
bulb
these direction
:
it,
up
and
counter-clockwise
turn
the
Using
a
needle
plate,
screw
driver,
remove
2.
Use a lint
brush
and clean the feed
3.
Reptace
needle plate.
dogs.
to remove
it.
3.
Put the
new bulb
up and turning
mbv
pushing
it
it clockwise.
47
= Clean the Shuttle Race
This
about
area
must
every
be kept
three
Center
free
of
dust,
lint
and occasional
tangied
thread,
Ctean the
shuttle
race area
months,
pm
of
the shuttle
Shut[la
dr_ver
Lever
Shu[tie
Lever_
Shuttle
v
Race
r
(Oil
case
Shuttle
Cover
._re)
Race
J
To Ctean the Shuttle
1.
2.
Raise
the
needle
point
and remove
Push
shuttle
shuttle
3.
Area:
Clean
race
To Replace
bar
to
its
the bobbin
levers
h_ghest
aside.
shuttle
race
with
out.
a
Put
a drop
the
center
2.
over-oil.
48
of
sewing
machine
of the shuttle.
oii
lint
on
shuttle
race
is forming
Hold
shuttle
to form
will
pin
Assembly:
half
as illustrated
so that
moon
left
on the
shuttle
side of the
machme,
brush,
4.
Position
driver
Lift
race cover and take shuttle
the
1,
case.
Shuttle
3,
by center pin and position
a half moon
shuttle
on the right
s_de. Pointed
cover
place
be on the bottom.
Place
shuttle
race
into
over
assembly.
Do not
4.
so as
hook
Snap the tevers back rote the original
position.
shuttle
!::
:
=:
.....
....
Oilingthe Machine
Oil the
machine
m all areas shown
use the machine
before
sewing.
Kenmore
Unplug
Oil behind
face
Use only
oil
Use good quality
sewing
NOTE:
Open
frequently,
machine
on the next
the
machine
sewing
machine
oil _savailable
at vour
the machine
before
two
under
oil.
cover
plate
and oil
points
do not over-oil.
the top
cover
One or two
nearest
about
drops
every
three
the machine
months,
of oil ts sufficient.
can become
In case machne
Remove
excess oil,
sluggish
or will
knock
loudly,
_s not used for an extended
otherwise
it may stain
tf you
t_meo oil It
fabric,
Sears retail store.
oiling.
the Face Cover Plate
a drop of oil;
pages at least once a year; otherwise
Oil under the Top Cover
m ilfustrat_on.
Remove
loosen
top
up two
cover
plate
to oil potnts
top screws and lift
indicated
in top of machine
head.
To remove
cover plate,
the cover plate as illustrated.
49
Oil the Underside
!i,lili_
ii!i
_I!_'I!
!i° _!
i_i
i_ii_
!_i,i
_i_i_'!
_, _
t
t
\
Oit the underside
Tilt
machine
To remove
5O
at least once a year.
head back and remove
bottom
covers,
remove
bottom
screws
covers.
(A),
Oil points
indicated
(B) and (C) as shown.
on underside
of machine.
_ !!_,
!ii_ii'i
_
_
PARTS LIST
All
parts
listed
herein
may
be ordered
from
any Sears, Roebuck
and Co, store or
serv{ce center.
1
2
6
WHEN ORDERING
INFORMATION:
REPAIR
PARTS,
1. PART NUMBER
3. MODEL NUMBER
ALWAYS
7
3
14
16
!5
21
10
9
17
22
23
12
tl
18
13
19
t
2
3
4
5
6
7
20
7
8
9
10
!1
t2
t3
14
t5
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
FOLLOWING
your order wilt be electronically
Center for expedited handling.
Part No.
47
6510
*6862
1939
8286
1O24O3202
813404013
6551
6552
6553
6554
*6746
36353
648801005
650802003
40390
6870
593401008
*6757
_6864
6797
40164
33379
6830
802424004
820832005
41669
*6889
649802009
THE
2, PART DESCRIPTION
4. NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally,
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution
Ref, No.
GIVE
DescNption
Shuttle
Bobbin
Bobbin
case
box with
10 bobbins
Bobbin winder rubber ring
Thread spool pin
Spool pin felt
No. 11 Stretch fabric needles(BLU)
No.
No.
No.
No.
"Q
1 1 Single
14 Single
16 Single
18 Single
NEEDLES';.
needles
needles
needles
needles
(ORG)
(RED)
(PUR)
{GRN)
Needle damp with screw
Buttonhole
guide foot
Straight
stitch foot
Standard
zigzag foot
Satin stitch foot
Zipper foot
Zipper foot
Needle threader
Light bulb
Motor belt
Motor belt
Buttonho{e
Lint brush
(Upper)
(Lower)
opener
Large screw driver
Small screw driver
Oil and lint brush
Darning
*These items are not furnished with the machine,
instructions above.
plate
but may be ordered
per
51
INDEX
H
A
Appliqueing
...................
25, 31
S
Hand wheel
.......................
B
I
Bar tacking .................
23, 31
Base ..........................
2
Basic zigzag ................
21.29
Blind hemming .................
24, 37
Bobbin ................
4, 13_15, 51
Bobbin case ...............
t3. 15,48, 51
Bobbin thread ................
17_18
Bobbin winding ............
!3_14
Box stitching .....................
25, 44
Buttonhole
................
24, 39_40
Buttonhole guide foot , , . 4, 10, 24, 39_40, 51
Buttonhole opener ............
4, 40, 51
Button sewing ................
23, 33
Invisible zipper .....................
Cabinet .........................
Changing presser foot .............
Cteanfng feed dogs and shuttle race
Ciutch knob ...................
Cording ......................
Cornering guide ...................
2
9_t0
47_48
3.13
23.42
26
D
Darnig ..................
Darning plate ........
23.28
4, 27_280 32_33, 51
Elastic stretch stitching ...........
Embroidery ...................
Extension table .................
25° 44
23, 32
2, 7
F
needle;
thread
..................
Light and power switch
Light bulb
..................
Lint brush ...................
24, 38
.............
3, 5
5.47,51
4, 47, 51
M
Mending ...................
Monogramming
...........
23, 35
23, 32
N
..................
1 !_12
Needle clamp .............
Needle plate
...............
Needle, thread and fabric
chart
.......
Free arm sewing
..................
12
2, 49
47
3.5
7_8
3, 12, 51
2, 47
12
O
Oiling ..................
Overcasting stitch .................
Overcast stretch stitching ........
49_50
34
24.36
P
Parts list
................
51
Plug connector
................
Portable case ................
Power switch
...................
Practical stitch chart
............
Presser foot
....................
Presser foot
and
stitch length chart ...........
Face cover plate .................
Feed dogs ......................
Foot control
..................
52
Lace work
Performance
problems
...........
Pine leaf stretch stitching
..........
E
Fabric,
42
L
Needle
C
3, 17
lever
.................
45_46
36
3, 5
2
5
23_25
3.9_10
3, 6
R
Replacing
bobbin case .............
Reverse stitch control
........
Rick rack stretch stitching
.........
13, 15
2, 21, 26
23, 34
Satin stitch foot ......
4, 10. 25, 30"32. 51
Satin stitching ................
25, 30
Seam guides .....................
26
Serging ....................
25, 36
Sewing light .....................
5
Shell stitching
.............
25, 43
Shuttle
..................
48. 51
Shuttle cover ................
2, 13
Shuttle race
...........
48
Smockfng ................
24.43
Spool pin felt ...............
4, 6, 51
Spool pins ..............
3, 4, 6, 51
Stitch length adjustment
.............
21
Stitch length control ...............
21
Stitch selector ..................
20
Stragith stitching
....
23, 25_28, 41_42, 43
Straight stitch foot ......
4.9, 23.26_28,
51
Stralgth stretch stitching ...........
23, 28
T
Thread
Thread
Thread
guide ...........
take-up tever .............
tenslor_s
................
Top cover ......................
Topstitching
...................
Top thread
....................
Top thread tension
............
Turning
a square corner
.............
2_3,
16_17
2, 16
18_19
3, 49
23, 27
16"-17
18_19
26
Z
Zigzag
Zigzag
Zigzag
Zipper
Zipper
foot ....
9, 23_29, 3t_38, 43_44, 51
stitching
.............
23.29_34
overcasting .............
34
application
.............
41_42
foot ...........
4. 10, 41_42, 51
WARRANTY
FULL
For
{)_
25-YEAR
WARRANTY
25 years from
in the mechanical
ON SEWING
the date of purchase,
components
MACHINE
Sears wi!l.
of the sewing
HEAD
free of charge,
machine
repair
defects
in mater_al
or workmanship
which
appear
head.
#
#
FULL
For
TWO YEAR
two
appear
years
in the
WARRANTY
from
the
electrical
date
ON ELECTRICAL
of purchase,
equipment
of
the
EQUIPMENT
Sears will,
sewing
free
machine
OF SEWING
of charge,
including
repair
MACHINE
defects
electromc
_
in material
components,
or workmanship
motor,
w_rlng,
which
switch
and
!l
speed control,
FULL
90-DAY
WARRANTY
ON ALL
PARTS
AND
MECHANICAL
ADJUSTMENTS
#
For 90 days from
necessary for proper
WARRANTY
{)
SERVICE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT
Thps warranty
the date
operation
of purchase.
Sears will,
of the sewing machine,
tS AVAILABLE
IN THE
gives you specific
UNITED
legal rights,
BY
free of charge, replace any parts
except for normal maintenance,
RETURNING
THE
SEWING
MACHINE
and
TO THE
provide
NEAREST
mechanical
SEARS
STATES.
and you may
service
SERVICE
#
#
also have other
rights
which
vary
from
state to state.
#
#
SEARS.
ROEBUCK
AND
CO., Dept.
698/731A,
Sears Tower,
Chicago,
IL 60684
SEWING
Now
that
MACHINE
you
on service,
have purchased
simply
contact
your
your
Kenmore
nearest
Sewing
Sears Service
Machine,
Center.
should
a need ever exist for repair
Be sure to provide
all pertinent
facts
parts
when
you call or visit.
The model
your
number
Sewing
of your
Machine.
Sewing
Machine
will
WHEN ORDER ING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS
*MODEL
NUMBER
you
*NAME OF ITEM *PART
if the
parts
Repair
Parts Distribution
need
are not
Center
SEARS,
S-385
be shown
on your
nomenclature
plate
on the back of
See page 3 for location.
stocked
locally,
GIVE THE FOLLOWING
INFORMATION:
DESCRIPTION
your
order
will
be electronically
transmitted
to a Sears
for handling.
ROEBUCK
AND
CO., Chicago.
Printed
IL60684
in Taiwan
U.S.A.
Part
No. 649800074
@