Download Sears 385.17724 Sewing Machine User Manual
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OWN ER'SMANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL _385._17724_ _O IMPORTANT SAFETY nNSTRUCTIONS Your sewing machine Read all instruction is designed before and constructed using this sewing only 4. Never operate ventilation accumulation for HOUSEHOLD use. machine. Never drop 6. Do not use outdoors. 7. Do 8. t. G E _- An appliance unplug 2. should this and before Always To reduce the risk of electric shock: never appliance from be left unattended the electric when outlet not plugged immediately in. Always after 10. before relamping. Replace bulb with same type Do rated not 11. reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. 4. Do not place or sink. or store Do not place appliance where {n or drop into it can fall water or be pulled or other into a tub or miury To reduce the risk of fire, disconnect, not Keep fingers Do not allow appliance the sewing Always use the Do not pull Switch the 15. 2_ Use this 3. Close attention is necessary when this only attachments for its intended recommended use as described by the manufacturer in this manuat. as contained in manual. Never working water. center Keep free from any opening. (spray) products are being used or where to the off ('0") position, then remove on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not from all machine operate this properly, Return appliance if it has been the appliance for examination, if it has a damaged repair, to cord dropped or damaged, the nearest authorized electrical or mechanical or plug, if it is not or dropped dealer into or service adjustment. the proper moving parts. Special care is required needle. needle ptate. The wrong plate can cause the the needle any adjustment in needles. or push fabric sewing area, machine such bobbin, or changing Always unplug mentioned while the needle causing covers, off _t to break. ("O") as threading presser foot, the stitching. sewing lubricating, in the instruction when needle, making changing needle, threading and the like. machine or when from the making electrical any other .outlet when adjustments manual. is used by or near children. appliance Use only this to be used as a toy. aerosol pulling away around removing t. into all controls by 13. shock, to persons. any object turn unplug It may deflect electric blocked. controller outlet. Do not use bent liquid. burns, opening and foot dust, and loose cloth. where 12. 14. WAR Ni NG- air needle to break. Unplug immediately. Do any machine cord, using 15 Watts. 3. 9. or Insert operate with of the sewing is being administered. p!ug from cleaning. unplug To appliance of tint, 5. oxygen DAN the openings SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear Customer: You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine. Specific instructions are given on threading, tenston adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control. Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please _emember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire. Kenmore Sewing Machine Record m number of this are located space provided appliance. below the The model on the nomenclature plate, modef number number and serial and serial number as identified on Page 4 of this booklet. Model No. 385, Serial No, Retain these numbers for future reference. THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE, TABLE SECTION SECTION SECTI ON KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable case or Cabinet is Available ............... Locate and Identify the parts ................ identify the Accessories ...................... 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING OF CONTENTS 1. Darning .............................. Straight Stretch ........................... Zigzag Stitches .......................... o Basic Zigzag ........................... o Satin Stitch ............................ o Applique ..................... Bar Tacking ......................... o Monogramming ........................ o Embroidery ......................... o Sewa Button .......................... o Overcasting Stitch ........................ • Rick-Rack Stretch ...................... o Three-Step Zigzag ....................... Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... • Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ Blind Hemming ............................ Lace Work ................................ Buttonhole Making ........................ • Learning to Sew Buttonholes ................ o Built-in System ........................ o Using Buttonhole Attachment ............... Sew in a Zipper .......................... Shell Stitching ............................ Two-Point Shell Stitching ...................... Smocking ............................... Stretch Patching ........................... Fagoting Stitch ........................... Herring Bone Stretch ......................... Elastlc Stretch Stitch ......................... Box Stitching .............................. Two-point Box Stitch ........................ Overedging Stitch ........................... Decorate with Geometric Patterns ............... 2 2_'3 4 Set Up the Machine ......................... 5_9 e Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... 5 o Foot Control Use .......................... 5 o Setthe Pressure Dial ......................... 6 o Setting Spool Pins .......................... 7 = Adjust the Presser Foot Lever ............. 7 a Accessory Storage Box .................... 8 • Free Arm Sewing: the Removal Extension Table . _ . 8"9 Know What the Presser Feet Will Do ............ 10_!3 o Check Your Presser Foot .................... 10 a Change the Presser Foot ...................... 10 • Presser FootTypes ........... , ............ 11"_13 Choose Your Needle and Thread , . , ........... 13_14 o Check Your Needle ........................ 13 o Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ..... 14 o To Change Your Needle ....................... 14 Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 15_16 o To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine ......... 15 • Wind the Bobbin ......................... 15 • insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder ......... 16 Prepare Your Top Thread .................... 17_20 o Thread Your Needle ................... t7 o Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ................. 18 o Adjustthe Top Thread Tension .............. 19_20 Stitch Selector .............................. 20 Stitch Width Control ......................... 21 Stitch Length Control ........................ 21 Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................ 21 Reverse Stitch Control ........................ 22 Starting To Sew ........................... 22 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Practical Stitch Chart ..................... 23"_27 Straight Stitches ....................... 28"_29 e Straight Stitch ........................... 28 o Use the Seam Guides ....................... 28 o Turn a Square Corner ...................... 28 • Use the Darning Plate ..................... 29 • Topstitching ............................ 29 SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART When to Do When ........................ SECTION 5. 56"_57 CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE Replace the Light Bulb ........................ Clean the Bobbin Holder ...................... Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs .............. Oiling the Machine .......................... PARTS LIST 30 30 31_38 31 32 33 33 34 34 35 36 36 37 38 38 39 40 41_47 41 42_-43 44_47 48_49 50 50 51 52 52 52 53 53 54 54 55 ...................................... 58 58 59 59 60"61 ,!,Ro_tarole :Gase:_:gr_,_Cabmet';tsAva=labl _L{!!A ei_J A full line of nearest Sears sewing retail cabinets store or is available through our at your general catalog, Another your option Kenmore _ . _ buy a Carrying goes anywhere, can Thread Case _ , . then be stored Spool Pins anyBobbin where. Upper Take-up Thread Winding Spindle Guide Lever Top Thread Tension Stitch Face Cover Plate Control _ Width Control Stitch Length Control Reverse Stitch Control Thread Cutter Needle Plate k. (- Base I i ,J Arm Cover Carrytng Pla_,e Handfe \ Guide Needle Clamp Presser Foot Thumb Screw Hand Wheel Push-Pull Thread Foot CIu[ch Snap-on Sti[ch Selector Stretcll S_tch Button Presser Free Arm Light and Power Sw_[ct_ Adiuster _ Foot ,_/ Control / Plug Con nector Nomenclature Plate 3 f Bobbin Darning Zipper plate toot Buttonhole opener Large screw driver Needle Small Lint brush Spoo{ pin set screw dr_ver Y Satin toot Straight stHch |oot Siiding buttonhole stitch toot Buttonhole Buttonhole 4 guide plate Base plate Buttonhole felt templates _ toot o Plug m the Machine and Switch • on the Power Foot Cont_o| Use f Power suppty plug Power switch I: ..... /.t ..... ::;,;::;,,L ........... ! / Foot control Sewing ligl_l Power sw_ tch k_ 4. Plug connector inserting machine, be sure the plug into the power your sw_tch ts OFF. Check Vott 2. 3. your outlet a 110to t20 the outlet, as shown, machine the power sw_tch to turn The FEATURE: machine interrupted or light/power sw_tch control you not operate is turned stop sewing, to unless the If you are on. turn prevent off the injury to To regulates plug into the ft will only supply plug into three-prong fit one way. the outlet. the speed at sew. increase speed, the ball of your will switch foot which light. decrease gently press down with foot. speed, release your foot control is sensmve pres- sure slightly. NOTE: The foot wilt increase sewing AC outlet. insert Insert to be sureitls and sewing light/power chitdren. 1. and power To SAFETY Your Before light on the power Machine plug NOTE. J Push the decrease speed Practice on regulate your your or and your immediately. a scrap sewing taste and needs. of fabric to speed to o Setthe Pressure Dial The pressure control Set the dial aligning dial the setting 3 ..... most 2 ..... applique t basting,'sewing ..... NOTE: is located mark on the dial with the groove as follows. sew}ng and Cut-Out for velours The pressure the machine work chiffon, Also it. }nside the face cover plate, lace, organdy and knits dia} should is ready iwJth more and other be reset at 3 after for most normal lightweight fabrics. stretch). sewing changing pressure, the next time so you use o Setting Spool Pins a Adjust the Presser Foot Lever o Thread Cutter F (.- .... Spool pin tel_._ Spoo_ p_n .... , -- I Normat up pl_stllOn The spool spools pins of thread are used m order for to holding the feed thread to You the machine, To use, putl spool storage, felt up on the the spool pros, pins. Place the The Push down presser foot, for You Presser Foot Lever to help foot. you and lowers your for 174" higher easy removal place heavy than the normal of the presser foot fabrics under the or presser need a pair after handy thread The threads starting can ratse it about up position raises don*t thread of scissors to cut the you finish sewing. Just use the cutter. are cut the next the seam, proper length for Accessory Storage Box o Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing, This feature makes sewing easy for: To remove: \ \ To Remove the Extension (for free-arm 1. The lid of open toward the accessory storage box lifts you, Grip Table sewing) the table wtth your index finger and thumb, as shown. 2. Pull gently toward you_ J Sewing accessories tn the box. are conveniently tocated The extenston table w_lt snap out. Bar tacking and To Attach: made Extension table around jlot To Attach the Extension (for flat-bed Table sewing) 1. Fit the tabs into 2. With your thumb the slot, as shown. and index finger, gent|y snap in. to reinforce waistlines garments on to avoid the needle. pockets, ready-made fabric plackets or homebunching * Stitchingsleeves, waistbands, pant_egs0 or anycirculargarment area. * Darning socksor mending knees, elbows, or areas ofwearinchildren's clothes. * Sewingbuttonsonsleeves, waistbands, etc. = Check Your PresserFoot The Presser feet are an important what each foot does in order Your presser foot snaps on the foot If you feature to use them of this need to remove which or attach is seldom the foot You Use the need to know effectively. is held in place by a Foot holder, machine, Holder. Each presser foot merely correct Stitch Pattern presser feet. presser Chart foot and the for the detailed stitch you directions wish to sew, for sewing with Consult the the various removed. holder, here is what you do: To Attach: To Remove: Change the Presser Foot To Snap Off: Presser bar -- Foot holder SCreW I To Remove: Turn the the screw machine. To Snap Off the Presser Foot: To Attach: toward Use the the back large of 1. screw driver. Match the holder with hole in the the threaded foot 1. hole in the presser bar. 2_ Fit the foot holder screw into the hole, 3. 10 Raise the toward you. screw by turning it needle bar to Raise the presser foot. 3. Press the will its highest position by turning the hand wheel you, 2, foot Tighten the toward snap-on drop off. button on tile back of the foot holder. The presser e Presser Foot Types Straight f Zigzag Foot f A: Zigzag foot Foot H: Straight foot To Snap On f stitching. Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching using center needle position only. Uses: Uses: Use this foot .for both Gr°°ve _ P_ To Snap On the Presser Foot: 1. Place the presser foot so the horizontal pin on the foot lies just under the groove of the foot holder. 2. Lower the presser foot holder to lock the presser foot in place. NOTE: If you do not hear the presser foot snap in place, press down on the presser foot holder firmly until you hear the snap. straight and zigzag Zigzag stitching (see page 31), Bar tacking (see page 33), Button sewing (see page 35), Rick-rack stretch (see page 3_6), Three-step zigzag (see page 37), Straight stitching (see page 2__8), Topstitching (see page 2__99), Straight stretch (see page 30). Overcast stretch (see page 38), Lace work !see page 40), Two-point shell stitching (see page 5__00}, Smocking (see page 51), Stretch patching (see page 51), Fagoting (see page 52), Herring bone stretch (see page 52), Elastic stretch (see page 533), Box stitching (see page 5__3), Two-point box stitch (see page 54), Overedging stitch (see page 5_44). 11 o PresserFoot Types (Continued) SlidingButtonhole Foot Zipper Slid ing bu ttonhoie Use this foot for buttonholes system, it is marked buttonholes accurately. Uses: Buttonhole to Foot foot of built Stitch Foot F: E: Zipper foot in This foot measure your your zipper. making (see page 42). Satin zipper Uses: can be set to sew on each side The edges of the foot guide the and keep the seam straight. Zipper application of (see page 4_88). Use this transparent outlining applique. Uses: Satin stitch Applique (see page 32), (see page 33), stitching Geometric (see page 3_4_4), isee page 5_0), decoratwe (see page 5_55). I2 foo= foot for satJnstitch and Monogramm+ng Shell Sat+r} stitch stitching o PresserFoot Types Buttonhole (Continued) Foot t3uttonholo toot Your Use this footwhen buttonhole Uses: making attachment But_onhote buttonholes with In your system. making choice of needle and thread needle case, you will Blue (1]) Orange (see page 44) ............ Purple the following for ........ fabrics or medium-heavy medium-heavy topstJtchJng (This Green (18) .......... for o Check Your has topstitch heavy stitching weight weight and fabrics decorative on these fabrics needle thicker needles: fabrics medium for you are sewing. color-coded for lightweight ............ (16) find on the fabric for stretch ( t t ) ........ Red (14) depends a larger thread hole for lng thread.) weight fabrics and decorative top- on these fabrics Needle t_ Look for barbed 2. A damaged needie and silk-like fabrics. Always buy smooth and consistent a good or blunt point. can cause permanent quality thread, it should snags or runs resist in knits, tangling fine silks and be strong, in thickness. 13 Fabric, Needle, Thread FABRIC Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Organdy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton 8tends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Piclue_ Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Vinyl Suntmgs, Linen, Woof Crepe, Leather Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool FIannel, Gabardine, Velvets, Leather and Stitch Length NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR 11-ORANGE 14-RED To Change Chart THREAD SIZE Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A 2 (12 stitches inch} 50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Co tton Wrap Silk A 2--2,5 |10-12 stntches per inch) per 4. Needle L. 14-RED or 16-PURPLE Heavy Weight: Coatings, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills. Canvas 18-GREEN OecoratLve top*stLtchlng on all types ot fabric 16-PURPLE 18*GREEN Stretch Fabric: Polyester Double Knits. Nylon Tricot, Jersey. Stretch Terry, Spandex, Cire Tricot 11-gLUE (STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE) 50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy-Duty Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A 2-3 (8-10 stitches per inch ) Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Po)yester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A 3 {8 stitches inch} Buttonhole Twist (Use as top thread only) Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton Needle RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING " ; clamp screw /, F}et s_de away irom you -.,/ per NOTE: Raise tion ..... 3-4 ' ' (6-8 stitches per inch ) 2--2,5 (10-12 stitches per inch ) the by needle bar turmng the to its hand highest wheel positoward you. t. Loosen the toward needle Remove 3, Insert the the needle new with the flat 4. Push the needle 5. Tighten box. clamp screw by turmng nt you. 2. large 14 Your the by pulling needle into side away up needle screwdriver from it downward, the needle you, as far as _t will clamp from screw your clamp go. firmly accessory with the storage ' o To Remove the Bobbin from o the Machine Wind the Bobbin f 1. Gently push _t towards 2. Set astde. 3. Lift down on the bobbin cover plate and slide you. Ctu[ch out the bobbin, as shown. 1. Put your spool of thread onto spool pin, with the thread winding in the direction sh own. 2. Putl the clutch winding NOTE: The bobbin the amount (example winder of 1/ 2 full adjustment loosen you use the screw to stopper. stopper thread adjust or full your one the can needed position Do not take screw on etc.). large turn be adjusted the Draw thread 4. Place To screw make driver or tess, This of bobbin all the wayout. for will the and allow winder from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you through bobbin on bobbin winder tension the bobbin winding to the right until disc as shown. spindle so that the thread comes on top, Push the bobbin 6. Holding 7. When the spool the threaded 5. bobbin from the bobbin. 3. out away onto the winder spindle end of thread, bobbin is slightly depress fiIled, the foot stop it clicks. control. the machine and clip the thread coming from bobbtn. 8. Slowly start the machine 9. Push the 10, Remove 11. Push in the clutch bobbin winder again and wind spindie the thread until the bobbin stops. to the }eft and clip the thread, the bobbin. for normal sewing operation. 15 Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder Q ® ............. 1. Put the holder bobbin so that counter-cJockwJse ® ® J into the the thread lleft). bobbin feeds 2. Pull about toward you slot ,. @ 4 inches through of the thread tension 3. Then puft the toward the through the slot back thread of _ clockwise the machine - 4. J Slide pushing it down bobbin. Allow thread plate, * Threading chart is located the face cover plate. chart 16 behind the bobbin to show cover plate while slightly about above over the 4 inches of the needle 2. The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations. Dotted loops Lines and then show places is pulled tight+ where the While holding check spring hotder. thread draw thread 3. Firmly 4. Draw 5+ Thread then 6. Thread needle from thread down near spool, draw up and through and slip it through thread take-up down lever from the thread into the tension right to left. area and then around the guide. thread NOTE: is slipped You may want into needle bar thread front guide. to back.. to cut the end of thread with sharp sctssors for easmr needle threading. 17 K 1. Raise presser needle and you 18 thread rotate foot lever. loosely in left hand handwheel one complete turn. Hold toward 2. Bring top bobbin thread.. thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads back under and to the of the presser foot, to 6 inches of thread clear. leaving 4 Adjust the Top Thread Tension Choose Top s_de of fabric the Correct The best tension Se[t_ng mark Tension: will depend on; the stiffness and thickness the number of fabric of the fabric layers the type of stitch L°°sen _/_ _ Top. thread The top thread _s too loose. Tighten The lop thread is [oo [_gh[ Top s_de o! J tabr_c 2 For Straight The ideal fabric, If you straight as shown look gaps, that When Stitch stttch above, at the each stitch adjusting wilt have threads magnified stitch, front _ssmooth top thread locked between the two layers of The top thread appears on me underside ot [he fabrtc_ to show detail. and back, you wilt notice that there are no The bobbin thread appears on the upper surface o_r the tabr_c, and even. tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top thread. k, Tension The top bottom is too loose: thread ot the stitch is too tight: through the The bobbin The bottom side the top shows of the fabric. J Tension wil! feel bumpy. the stitch thread will of the fabric. will come The top through side of feel bumpy. 19 For Zigzag Stitch In the of correct fabric below zigzag and the stitch, top for the correct the bobbin threads will appearance. threads show will slightly To match not show on the on the top side bottom th_s appearance, adjust side. your See top tension. E3 C3 O Top tension Top tension Too Tight Too Loose C3 E3 E3 C3 C3 EJ _ C3 C3 IC3 R E3 C3 E3 C3 E3 Red indicator The stitch 1 t Top side ot Fabric Top s_de of Fabric turn on the stitch stitch Top selector Simply this control control indicator length control determines until the stitch the desired panel. The bottom is set at the stretch you select. stitch is indicated row stitch To avoid fabric Stitch patterns needle when or fabr:ic damage, selecting i!: -- -- 2O Corner o| each zigzag will pull together on the top side of Tabrics. The top thread will loop through bottom s_de o¢ labrlc and will be pulled almost together. Bottom the be sure your side of Fabric Just Right: Mlmm_ze the amount ot top thread vlsible on the bottom side ot labrtc without causing excessive puckering or causing #In bobbin thread to show on the top side. Results vary with fabric, t_}read and sewmg condition& o Orange e Green are color-coded o Blue a Yellow'. ....... ......... ......... ........ needle is up and out of a stitch. to recommend setting zones ZONES Bottom side of Fabric Too Loose: when position. control. Bottom side of Fabric red indicator is selected s_de of Fabric NOTE: Too Tight: by the of stitches Straight, Zigzag Geometric and Utility Decorative Buift-in Buttonhole Stretch Stitches Stitches Stitches Making at the stitch length Length Width 1234 4- .............. The width The stitch. stitch width of the stitch higher control regulates the you select. the number, the wider the The stitch length length of stitch, stitches setting. The higher J- tttct_ Stretch control regulates J the and also has a stretch In stretch -Lf adjuster stitch sewing, should usually position the number, the longer (betwee,_ position). the may stitch. the stretch be "'+" Wizen sewing need balance to and "--", or some fabrics, adjust the stitches stitch in a neutral this for you control appearance to sake. 0 means no feed. If design To select control NOTE. Stretch at Stretch When Stitches, you you select decorative or (blue), do built-in make sure not set the stitch control at "Stretch Stitch". Study the yellow and around this are to orange, blue length the the stitch green, "I'i Rickrack seems open left, adjust toward "--" until center design. If the the the design right control toward design appears hand like the illustrations the to control looks be closed illustrations, '%" until slightly like turn stitching the as in the is as you desire. stretch sections control. recommended stitch to Smocking stretch (green} buttonhole tengh this Stitch. stitches that set These zones of and color-coded stitches indicator pictured on panel, 21 Now that you Reverse you are familiar are ready each time you 1, Inspect for 2. the controls to sew with sit down to sew: the needle, the fabric fabrics with to start It shoutd and thread placing inches to the the machine and with the accessories Kenmore sewing be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. blends material rear of on your new being used. made ot synthetic Before your Do not be afratd tend on the to dull Hold to change the needles more machine, the machine. machine. see that the on to threads Below your provided for the machine, are some good habits It should be the correct needle frequently. than fabrics made of natural ends of the threads have been the sewing size Many of the new easily during to fo!low fibers. drawn of the first 3 or 4 stitches about 4 of the seam. 3. Test the machine the machine To reverse stitch, trol during sewing, hold down 4, again. of stitch you plan to use. The fabNc should and tenslon suitable to your presser foot w_th the be double thickness. Adjust fabric. Fabric should right be placed under edge of the material machine a slow the placed on the 5/8" bulk of the material seam marking to the left of the needle on the needle plate when making and a simple seam, 5. Run the machine will at even speed. Fasten each seam by back tacking 7. Always finish 8. Guide 9. the sewing fabric the normal When turning The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the sew. 6. that 22 on a scrap of fabric this conthe Release to sew forward stitch for the length at the beginning each seam with gently feeding with your and end of the seam, the needle at its highest hand in front point. of the needle, Never is altered, the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you. pull or hold the fabric in such a way ;_ Practical Stitch Chart ! Stitch .... STRAIGHT I t I t t Stitch I Selection Foot and Other Attach. S_ra_gh_ i I I I t I STRAIGHT STRETCH Check Chart on p. t_44 % Darn mg plate | Stitch Length Stitch Width Uses 2 _ 6 Orange Zone 0 Regular etc. searms, zrppers, 2 _ 6 Yell ow Stretch Stitch Position 0 Use on knits and other for topst_tching. Referto topstttching, darmng, 28 _ 30, 48 _ 49 Check Chart , stretch fabrics, good 3O % on p. t4 ZIGZAG Zigzag Check Chart on p. t4 3 _ 8 Orange Zone 1 _ 5 Fintsh edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique, monogram, embroidery, sewing bar tacks. RICK-RACK STRETCH Zigzag Check Chart 2 _ 6 Yel low Stretch Stitch Position 2~5 Decorate 2_6 Orange Zone 2_3 Use for finishing III III IU III on p. 1_44 BLIND HEM STITCH Zigzag Page I Zipper foot Straight Thread Tension Needle Check Chart garments w_th one row or several. seams. 3! _ 35 36 39 on p.14 23 | Stitch Stitch SoIection Foot and Other Attach. l Needle Thread Tension Stitch Length 2 _ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch PosFtion Stitch Width Uses Refer to Page t OVERCAST STRETCH Zigzag % = THREE-STEP ZIGZAG Zigzag ,€ SMOCKING STITCH % Zigzag % J_4 Satin SHELL STITCH % SERGING Zigzag tk 24 % Check Chart on p. 14 Check Chart 2~6 3 ~ 5 0.5~t Use for swtmwear0 ski pants and other garments that require stretch. 38 Use for finishing seams. 37 or as a decorative on p. 14 5t Check Chart on p. 14 2 ~ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Posmon 3~5 Use m smocking Check Chart on 13,.14 4 ~ 9 Orange Zone 345 Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings. Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam, Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie. 5O Blue 111) 3 _ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3~5 Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings, Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam. Do shell tucking on blouses and linger=e. 38 on p.14 stitch, Stitch Stitch Salect_on Foot BOX STITCHING Zigzag % ELASTIC STR ETCH < < < and Other Zigzag I > > FAGOTING i % Zigzag % STRETCH PATCHING < < t, Zigzag Attach. Needte Check Chart Thread Tension Stitch Width 3 _ 8 Orange Zone 3~5 Use for overlapping 3 _ 6 Yeflow Stretch Stitch Position 3_5 Use 3 _ 8 0.5~2 2 _ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 5 3 _ 8 Orange Zone 3_5 Uses Refer to Page seams_ 53 onp.14 Check Chart on p, t4 Check Chart for applying 53 elastic, Join two folded edges tot open-work appearance. decorative 52 on p. 14 Check Chart on p. 14 < < < Stitch Length Use for patchwork quilting. 51 ,, TWO-POINT SHELL STITCHING Zigzag Check Chart on p. 14 Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie. This stitch can a_so be used as a single Overiock stitch as welt. 50 L> ¢ 25 Stitch Stitch HERRING BONE STRETCH and Other Zigzag ! TWO-POINT BOX STITCH L_ % Zigzag C_ E Foot Selection % Attach, Needle Thread Tension Stitch Length Stitch W_dth Uses Check Chart on p. 1_44 2 _ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3 _ 5 Use as hemming stitch c{oth and draperies. Check Chart. on p. 14 3 _ 8 Orange Zone 3~5 Use for overlapping Check Chart 3 _ 8 Orange Zone 3 _ 8 Green Zone 3~B 0.5_ Refer to Page tot blankets, table- 52 54 seams, r L, OVEREDGE STITCH Zigzag J ................. 54 Use for Overedgmg. on p, 1_4 DECORATIVE GEOMETRICS Satin Check Chart 3~5 Decorate garments with one row one stitch or a combination. 2_5 Use for applique work, also as decorat=ve fimsh for piacemats, blankets, coltars, cuffs and pockets. or several, 55 on p.14 SATIN 26 STITCH Sattn Check Chart on p. 14 1 32 Stitch Stitch Selection Foot and Other Sliding buttonhole Attach. Needle Check Chart Thread Tension 2 _ 6 Stitch Length Stitch Width Blue Zone 3 _ 5 (Blue Zone) Uses Buttonholes: also corded Refer buttonholes. to Page 42 _ 43 on p, 1_44 BUTTONHOLE D ,Buttonhole Check Chart 2~6 Raund-end buttonholes. buttonholes and keyhole 44 ~ 47 on p. I! 27 = Straight Stitch o Use the Seam Guides Set the Machine Stitch width control 0 / Cornering guide ,J Top thread tension controi 2 to 6 J Stitch length controt orange Before zone foot, sewing always control to with the straight stitch set the width 0 to stitch avoid breakmg 2. Strelch Stltch 3. Place to the sewing obtained results with stitch foot, foot will acceptable the but also resutts. the are straight z_gzag edge a stftchmg needle Best may want and end of to reverse to are engraved width. to help you measure The lines are 1/8" the 5/8" plate and 7/8" seam apart, wtth lines marked, Raise the presser foot and remove = Turn a Square Corner to its highest 9, Cut the threads. /!Cornering of the fabr{c guide plate line (5/8" next on the ts most common). _.__,, 4. Draw the threads and lower toward the presser the back foot. 5. Press the foot Hold the fabric guide that Do it along control. 1. loosely the and gently guide line, so it feeds naturally, not force pul_ it tight. the fabric or try ) To turn fabric provide 6. a square corner Stop stitching 2, by turning toward you when facmg you tines Raise from the Lower stitching lower hand the fabric up the wheel edge with the and turn guide, as shown, the fabric the 5/8" 3, and needle cornering to 5/8" edge: the 28 needle posit{on. H: Straight foot NOTE; needte beginnmg on the the fabric, Raise the presser foot. the the seam guides lock the stitch. 8. Raise At seam, you the needle. 1, 7. The presser foot to the edge with foot and begin fine seam guide. the presser in the new d_rectlon. = UsetheDarning Plate = Topstitching f Set the Machine Darning prate \ Stitch width control 0 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control orange Here's How zone Sometimes when The Darning you Plate sew, covers you the feed want to control dogs so that they the fabric do not touch yourself. the fabric. 1. Lower the presser foot. 2. Keep to To Put on the Darning NOTE: The Plate: rectangular needle right prate, in the in the darning Pos}tion the darning 2, Fit darning mark. Darning ptate, plate with plate pins Darning Button Plate these plate match holes the holes are slightly m the to Stretch Stitch 3, the Evenly edge ot guide the fabric the next presser to the needle show through piate holes the darmng in the following (see page 35) ways: produce 5/8" along an even from the this row of edge. H: Strmght foot on the bottom. at the plate The Stitch and Its Uses Topstitchmg lsee page 30}, Sewing the pins into The feed dogs will holes. Use the darning of the fabric edge topstttching 1. the edge right foot. holes of center, 5/8" the the your emphasizes garment and keeps the lines seams of and edges flat and crisp. Accent two outer suits rows ot or blouses topstitching edges of cuffs, with one around or the lapels or collars. 29 Set the Machine Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control 0 width control 0 @ 1234 Top thread tenskon control 2 to6 Stitcl_ iength control any number (not necessary to adiust) Top thread tension control 2 to G Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position Here's 1. How Put the darning plate on the needle plate (see page 29). No preSSer foot 2, (see Stretch Stitch 3. Darmng Remove plate presser page toot 10), stretch embroidery hoops with Draw bobbin the fabric one at holder fabric up the top the toot between spot through thread where Lower the presser bar and Move you w_sh to sew at a slow Turn the fabric back the fabric If your and forth the darning half tayer ot stltchLng NOTE; The Stitch stitch =S the the straight stitch, turn tabnc _s thin or badly This stitch topstitch=rig damaged, under stretch variation especially and stretch can the of develop- aiso on all fabrics. be used fabrics as well. curved for When you finish plate and replace 3O darning, foot remove holder the darning and foot. and will well on receive strain (ie. and other on any a great children's clothes). The stretch, actuatiy stitch stretch but forward does as it stitched back called stitch}, when instead is and (sometimes give 7. that of on tt works seams garments deal fabrics. fabrics tt can be used action" it. was developed knits, sewn, iayer, p_ece of fabric hole to reinforce unti_ and sew antother over the first use a separate slowly area. stitching to be used on stretch and Its Uses This ed for knits you have covered 6. H: Strai_Jht toot and taking speed. 5. Stretch the start darmng. 4. Stretch Stitch hole centered. thread by holding stitch and the so in motion a that fabric of breaking. not Isbeing "reverseit will stretches a Basic Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control I to 5 i Top thread tension control 3 to 8 234 Stitch length control orange Zor]e Here's How There are many Consult Satin the specific Stitch Applique Stretch Stitch Monogramming Embroidery Button The StItch The ztgzag common your and its Uses stitch machine. for sewing ming, is one of the and most It can be a utility buttons, ing. It with trims, can also be used appliques or as a decorative directions. page 33, page 33, page 3_44, page 3_4, page 35, page 36. on hem- and to for detailed stitch buttonholes, mending variations most versatile stitches overcasting, Sewing Overcasting to sew a zigzag stitch. page 32, Work Bar Tacking A: Zigzag foot ways darn- decorate and cut-out work stitch. 3_ = Satin Stitch Set the Machine Zigzag Stitch w=dth control 2 to 5 _ 2 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 w_d_h : Stitch length ! 3 4 Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 2 > > >- > > > > CIose to 0 Stretch Stitch F._ Satin stitch foot Pressuredial: t or The Stitch The Satin used and Its Uses stitch decorative is a versatile stitch, be used to overcast ample, blankets, but and often a raw edge (for linens, ex- tablecloths in applique. 32 stitch Once is espematly How attractive your machine ot the fabrlc welght and napkins). The Satin Here's it can also fabrics. is set up to you are planning stitch, you may want to use, Too tight satin to experiment stitch on a fragment may pucker some light o r Applique Set the Bar Tacking set the Machine Machine Stitch Stitch w=dth control 2 to 5 width control 2 to 5 @ .s Z 34 _ length 0,5 to 34 t:: : 7 ,::::i::::,:*! ::i::-:: Top thread tension control 2 to 6 1 ........................ Baste lor joiner) sure ruse apptique Stitch around the F : Satin stitch with iron-on fabric This on the fabric. satin stitch points 'of applique fails along making the outer When /_'_-_'_, sewing foot Pressure ........ dial: 2 _ into and corners, the fabric. pivot the stitch pockets is similar and strain to is used such a very to short reinforce as corners or and straps on lingerie. Sew 4 to 6 z_gzag stitches. Stitch down toot .: :*:: Stitch tength controt 0.5 to pieces the needle J edge of the applique, Stretch ::: i:Z'i Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch control 2 lower Stretch the needle Stitch Raise the presser fabric to the right A: Zigzag foot or left, J 33 = Monogramming Embroidery Set the Machino Set the Machine Stitch wLdth control 5 Stitch w=dth control 1 to 5 @ i Top thread tension control 2 to G 2 3 4 _ Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0.5 to ] 2 Here's 2 3 4 Stitch length control Any number (not necessary to adiust) Here's How How 1. 1. Set the same as satin stitch. 2. Back the fabric with letters on paper or interfacing. Stretch Stitch 3. Draw with the tailor's the fabric No pre_er foot Remove 3. Adiust Stretch Stitch Satin stitch foot 4. Satin stitch, width as necessary If using when plate on the needle foot holder the (see page 10), stitch width as desired on the (see page 21 ), chalk. adjusting the stitch to form each paper, carefully you have finished remove sewing. Draw with Darn m9 plate pattern, 5. darning (see page 29), 2, 4. F' Put the plate 5. the design tailor's Stretch the. fabric dery hoops needle. it 6, Lower the between and place presser engage the top thread 7, Holding to thread rotate the hand you one complete turn. the bobbin top thread thread through under the lever to tension. top Pull embrol- foot the hand, fabric chalk. in your wheel to left toward draw the to the surface of the fabric. 8. Using the fabric 34 a medium marked carefully speed, outline, by hand. stitch guiding along the Sewa Button Set the Machine Stitch width control i!iiiii iii!i i Top thread tension control 2 tO 6 Stitch length control Any number {not necessary to adjust) Use the darning 1, Match plate for button the center sewing of the but-ton To (see page 2__9). holes to the center of the slot on the presser foot, Stretch Stitch 2, Ad.iust 3, Lower Turn A_ the stitch the foot the hand width to hold wheei so that needle will the button by hand drop in each hole, that needle enter the shank, cut the a 8" tail. Bring the needle thread down in the button and w_nd Drew will leaving through the hole it around the bottom side shank. in place, so strengthen threads either hole of the the thread to the and knot. button. 4, Stitch several t_mes, 35 = Overcasting o Stitch Rick-Rack Stretch Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch Stitch width control 2 to 5 width control 3 to 5 I Top thread tension contro! 3 to 8 2 3,_ Top thread tension control 2 to G Stitch length control orange ..... zone Start overcasting raw corner right up Stretch about of your 1/8" inside seam. If you Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch poslt_on Zigzag start you might at the edge, the fabric will bunch and Hints the stitches wilt become Th_s stitch top Stitch The Stitch This and Its Uses zigzag variation garment A: foot is very construction raw edges of any sewing 36 and usefut m fimshing proiect. in and Its Uses Sew on stretch the Stretch Stitch A: The Stitch Zigzag foot stItch fabrics in any area that use a zigzag stitch. can be used as a decorative as welt, e Three-Step Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch w=dth control 5 @ 'i _ 3 4 Top thread tension i control 2 tO O Stitch length control 0.5 to I 2 Seam Fimshmg Place the fabric so that the right Stretch Stitch A: zigzag zigzag and straight three-step would flatter The under edge will the presser foot be slightly reside Position that the tear the stitching under will the catch needle both so sides. hand side of the presser foot. Guide the stitches fall at the edge of the fabnc. work so the right hand and Its Uses The three-step has the Mending Zigzag toot The Stitch the (Overcasting) use more zigzag the basic strength, than a regular three-step ly useful is a combination stitch. You may use everywhere zigzag you stitch. elastimty, and It is zigzag. z_gzag stttch _sespecial- for: - mending - sewing patches smoothly and securely. -- repatring strmght -- finishing seams. tears. 37 Overcast Stretch o Stitching Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch f Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Stitch width control 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitching Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch tength controt yellow stretch st=tch position 2 Here's How Place the the LEFT raw edge of the fabric Stitch length control yetlow stretch stitch position Here's How Place to foot of the needle as shown. the fabric so that under the the strtches presser are made over the edge. Stitch Stretch Stitch so the needle just short ot the outside Or, place your seam, A: Raw Thts stitch seam wlth and its Uses can finish. and one operation. you are making stretch. 38 other be used for is formed seam and can an overcast The then fabnc trLm edge. to atlow seam sewing a allowance m It can be used when swlmwear, garments A: Zigzag toot or worn be that ski pants require edges of older overcast to prevent further Use a blue needle, prevents stretch which skipped fabric effectively stitches. The Stitch and Its Uses Use stitch this narrow you you do not press open flat. tt _s ideal seams knits or heavyweight want woven a narrow for making using fabric, use a blue fabric needle sMpped when seam that on When stretch effectively garments raveling. NOTE: finished NOTE: Stretch Stitch a 5/8" after. Zigzag toot The Stitch pierces the fabric a need to tot 1/4" on medium to fabrics where you seam. elastic want swim |t is also great wear. kmt stretch which prevents stitches. Set the Machine Stitch w_dth control 2 to 3 I14" I Ligl_t Weight Fabric Top thread tension control 9 to 6 Stitch length control orange Heavy Weight Fabric Zone 2 t,1 _S Stretch A: Zigzag toot 114" Stitch 1. Finish the raw edge of your 2. Measure, turn NOTE. For light 3. the Fold up your weight material hem any way you desire. (See overcrasting page 36). hem and pin. fabrics, (bottom you may need a double side out) on the edge fold. to be stitched, as shown, leaving 1/4" of the finished be sewn on extended edge. hem edge showing. % 4. 5. Place garment stitch should under After hemming, just catch presser foot the fold press both in such a manner that straight stitches wit! The zigzag of the garment. sides of the finished hem. The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches. 39 Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 3 i_ i!ii_ili_i_!!i_i_i_i_ _ii!i_i ''_ '_'_,_ _ Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 1 Stretch Stitch Lace to A: Zigzag foot a fanciful, and feminine lingerie. and pit]ows become when trimmed with Turn raw edge of fabrlc 5/8"_ Place stitch using stretch Trim 40 adds blouses more linens elegant lace. under lace underneath excess fabric touch Table blind at least and top- hem stitch. close to stitching, = Learning With your to Sew Buttonho|es Kenmore buttonholes. snap-in sewing You automatic may machine use the buttonhole you have two built-in system attachment system. methods or you of makmg Tips on buttonholing may use the Always use. Always Choose the buttonhole 1. Buitt-in Choose 2. 3_ Tissue irectangular), this style for waistband, need only one or two a practice buttonhole with use an interfacing on a scrap of fabric the button in area of you will garment you ptan to use. where buttonholes are placed. style bottonholes make Try the buttonhole cuffs, belt slots or where you will st}tching, paper or regular For heavier buttons. interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after Jf it is used.. weight fabrics, loosen your top thread tension slightly. Round end buttonholes (Template No. 213504005, 213505006}. Choose this style for series of buttonholes on dresses, btouses, vests, jackets or coats. Keyhole Choose buttonholes th}s need more _Template style for tailored room for button No, 213506007), vests, jackets, coats or any time you shank. 41 o Built-in System Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 (Blue zone) Stitch length control B_ue zone I !311 i i! iG'i !i!iiiiiI;II ¸il i!i!i!i!i ii t. a. Carefully length mark on your the buttonhole 2, a. Move garment. B11 b. Change to the sliding buttonhole b, foot. Top thread tension control 2 to 6 c, Stretch Stitch Insert foot Sliding buttonhole foot the with ing runmng garment under the _buttonhole toward the so that c. NOTE: meets the start Line up with the the top the Stitch Depending own upon preference may alter density m For 2. For NOTE. blue Iength density, stitch buttonhole turn Q Coarse stitches for heavy iabrics dial the dial @ F ine denstty, turn the dial make tonhole on a scrap fabric to light {abr _cs Always suitable s_atcI_es tor "0 '° plan 42 you "t" more toward or your buttonhole the less toward {abnc buttonholes, the within range on the stitch t. Density your a practice use to find stitch length. butyou the more ii Stretch Stttch you (C) on the mark markings Lower mark The markings on 3. a. Set the stitch on the front slider m centimeters. until marking of at l'l you reach the your button- hole. the on your selector b. Sew forward (B). the presser toot. are engraved Adjusting toward mark garment. mark- you. (A) top slider foot the slider the c, Stop sewing at the left stitch. • • : ••H•• i::i:•:!••!]_::_':•:•_ii:i:i ¸¸¸I• 4. a. Set the stitch selector at D b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop sewing [t 5. a, Set the stitch selector at b. Sew until reach the NOTE; at the sliding buttonhole and sewm reverse( edge of fabric, foot _--> Lj back of the buttonhole. at the r_ght stitch. c. Stop When sewing you set as illustrated _"_->_]-,-r_ ). -t.__t Lj _4 sewing 6. a, Set the stitch at r_ U b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches, 7. Remove hole opener c. Stop sewing at the right selector at the left stitch. the open fabric with m your the and cut the buttonhole accessory storage box. stitch. ilii !iii!!ii :!i!_!_;ii 43 o Using Buttonhole Attachment Buttonhob Attachment Buttonhole System For more varied and accurate buttonholes, you will enjoy using the buttonhole attachment and templates. Know the parts read carefully how to set up your machine properly. attachment system, Guide You wilt Style and Size Round End Bu ttonhote Keyhole Buttonhole need these items for the buttonhole slot Template 213504005 213505006 213506007 318" 112" 15/16" 718" 1-11t6 '° 5/8" 1-1/4" 1-1/2" 1-1116" Sizes 13/16" !-1/4" I-3/8" Catch Buttonhole guide plate Guide NOTE: length easily by matching on the template. bJock Buttonhole templates Lever Pins Hook _ "-Gear Base plate Buttonhole 44 IllustratIons of buttonhole on template show actual length of buttonhole to be sewn. You witt find the most suitable buttonhole foot the button with the proper illustration Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 i 2 3 Level 4 Top E thread Top thread tension contro412 to 6 \ Stitch length contro] _4 Rectangular 1. Stretch Stitch Buttonhole Helpful You #60 bobbin NOTE: toot Hints can _ obtain #80 best light results weight to use threads as Remove b, Raise the needle to its highest c. Remove holder. d. PuB bobbin thread e. Insert of base plate f, Pull Lever back to align the hook g. Snap two is advisable stretch fabric sewing knits to the extens!on hole a. the foot hook base plate round Release thread. It Base plate Hook holes table, out about down to into fit position. 3" straight back toward rectangular two with pins rear of machine. hole of needle plate, the rectangular (A) at the hole. back of base plate into (B) on needle plate. lever, use a blue needle and when synthetic fabrics. You can with a wider settmg control obtain the buttonholes cutting stitch at 1,5 instead space by width of 2. 45 nhote toot e gu _deplate Gear,x _t..f Gu_d__ Slot Tempfa_e __Catch "4ii_i_l Setting Mark _!:!fl;:i!_;i_i Guide block Gear obbin thread 2_ a_ When you have selected the template hole you need, slide the template b, c. Pull catch toward you while with sliding the template is at the setting insert into into the center base plate button- into the guide plate. hole size you have chosen gear of the size and style slot until the 3. a. Attach the buttonhole b. Adjust position template. button- mark, of template " _" point toot. of gear so it is aligned with the starting point of The lever can be used to change gear position. and fit guide block C_ Pull the bobbin thread up through guide slot by turning the hand wheel toward you while holding top thread. d. Place the bobbin and top threads to the left side of gu=de plate. of the guide slot. Leave 3 to 4 inches of thread. 46 "" _ 5. Marked buttonhole a. Lower b. Start c. Allow d, Center marking- To the buttonhole sewing foot. slowly. the machine to do the work (Do not try to guide the fabric.) Stop sewing when release the base plate off buttonhole by itself. the needle returns base plate, pull the to the position lever toward where you it begins. and lift the the machine. Fabric Measurement mai_kings Adjusting the stitch density You may alter the closeness of the stitches control from 4 to 3. Mark your Placing buttonhole your position garment behind carefully the machine, insert foot as shown. C° Align marked with center marking d. Line up your the measurement plate just e. buttonhole fabric in front Pierce the fabric edge with of the buttonhole with foot it between the If you line want your up the fabric tabrtcs on buttonhole markings foot. (_ Fine stitches for light on the guide Stitch length control 4 as shown, the needle at the beginning buttonhole to w_th the 1/2 inch length guide of the bu_onhole, (_ NOTE: the stitch f on the garment. ptate and the buttonhole by turning be 1/2 inch markings from the garment each time you start Coarse stttches for heavy fabrics edge, to sew a buttonhole. Stretch Stitch 47 Fabric Preparation: Put the top and sew opening. Set the Machine sides of the fabric to the end Use the of reverse the Itt8") Stitch width together control /Zipper to lock leech 0 zipper Zipper tape the stitches. Sew length the zipper at "4" opening and top with thread stitch tension at "3"- Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length contrOt 2 o_ opening To Sew: 1, Top s_de ot tabrlc Stretch E: Zipper foot 3. Turn under the right seam allowance to form a 1/8" fold. 5. o To the zipper sew on the attach the foot: left presser on the zipper pros foot, e pin on the_ ricjht hand snde o To sew on the right stde of the zipper, attach the presser bar to the left pins on the zipper foot. 48 Lower 6. the zipper foot. foot bottom the needle and the zipper tape. Sew the zipper Place the zipper teeth next to the 1/8" fold and pin in piece, presser bar to the right at the so that slider Lower fabric side of the zipper, bar to the right the on the zipper side 7. To attach Attach pins Stitch 2_ Top edge ot tabr_c Reset stitch length at 2 and top thread tension at 2 to 6. Fold back the left seam atiowance as shown. 4, through on the top of the pierces fold tape to the point zipper the fold and the where the begins, the needle to hold and raise the presser foot, the ..... J 8, 9. Open Lower 10. the ztpper. the presser foot and stitch Close fabric the top zoper and turn the 1!. Remove attach side up. the the zipper presser pros on the zipper *he rest of the seam. 12. Stitch tom 13. across and foot bar to and the foot. below the bot- the corner and continue to guide the teeth, as shown. Stitch through zipper foot the fabric zipper and 2" from the top of the Lower the needle into the fabric and raise the presser foot. 16. along the Stop about zipper. 15. of the zipper. Turn 14. left Remove open t7, the basting stitches and the z_pper, Lower the of the seam. Make foot and stItch the rest sure the_old is even. tape. 49 .... ii ii iiii ¸i i ..... Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 4 to 9 Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control orange Here's zoRe 2 1. How For best effect: set the stitch length Stitch length control Orange zone 2 as you desire. Stretch you may need to tighten top thread Stitch - allow fabric 2. The Stitch and tts Uses The Shell Stitch blind hem rows of folded stitching by sewing fabric. a Several are called shell tucks. Shell stitching can be used hems, sleeve and neck Shell _ckmg scalloped, lingerie. 5O can tucks to finish to create openings. be used on If you sew blouses and You can soft sifky to edge of the A: rows of shell stitches, 5/8" Stretch Stitch just it ztgzags. sew Shell wovens needle folded the slightly. when space the rows is formed over shell the clear the F _ Satin stitch foot tension apart, St=tch on knits m any direction, or Zigzag foot This i;{ :::=/,},::i :]- :,_i'} can also stitch single overlock stitch _ ::{:_ =,;, be as well. used as a Set the Machine Stitch w_dth Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control yellow stretch st_[ch | Stitch length control yellow stretch stttch posmon The Stitch postt_on For and Its Uses patching worn out elbows or knees, Stretch Stretch Stitch Stitch A: Zigzag foot A: Zigzag toot With the straght stitch length stitching at lines "4", sew 3/8" apart across the area to be smocked. Knot the the threads bobbin gathers the evenly, other stitch along threads Secure end. between Sew the Loosen tension the to Pull the the threads the gathenng Pull out the gathering NOTE: one edge. and distribute at decorative stitches, stitches, top make thread gathering easier. 51 Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Stitch width 4234 ii:iiii:iiii iiii !iiiiiiiiiliiii iiiii !!:iii i!ii¸iii iii!!"i ii i Top thread tenston control 3 to 8 Top thread tens=on controt 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0.5 to 2 pos_t_on Here's How 1. Fold Stitch length control yeltow stretch stitch under each fabric Here's How Place edge 5/8" and press. 2. Stretch Pin the tear-away Stitch 3. Sew so the A: Zigzag The Stitch Use fabric this edges backing slowly, needle to create iota to 1/8" guiding catches edge on each side, paper or the fabric the folded Stretch A: two an and add deslgn pieces open of work interest. Use Stitch Zigzag loot and Its Uses as hemming tablecloth stitch and draperies. for blankets, fabric top from Trim close to stitching. prevent apart. The Stitch and Its Uses stitch to appearance 52 foot two the 3/8" slde up, and sew the edge. raveling. The stitch will ::::::_: =7?L>-i_i:_' i:::/" :; : ! __! ;7::=:¸¸::¸:¸;!¸:__:¸¸:¸::- ::_':=: =i'{+ _ : Elastic Stretch Stitch ::_ Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch w=dth control 3 to 5 Stitch w=dth control 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Top thread tens=on control 3 to 8 Stitch length contro_ yellow stretch sUtch Stitch length control orange zone Use posltlor_ this stitch to join heavy weight interlining. Stretch Stretch Overlap two use this stitch raw edges together to ioin and them. Stitch Stitch A: Zigzag foot A: Zigzag toot \, Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments, 1, 2. Mark the elastlc to into quarters the center and match these center back and side seams. Place the middle of the elastic under the center of the presser foot and stitch sure the elastic into front, piace0 making +s evenly distri- bu ted. 53 Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Stitch width control 3 to 5 1234 Top thread tenston control 3 to 8 Stitch length control orange zone 2 ,>1_3 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 This stitch is usefut for elastic fabrics Stitch length control orange zone 2 This _.__3 to join them together, 4 Stretch A: Stretch Stitch Zigzag foot A: %,, 54 stitch edging stitch. , Zigzag toot Stitch can be used for a over- Set the Machine Stitch wtdth control 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control 9teen J zorl{_ Here's How 1. Ad!ust the stitch width and length as you desire. 2. F, Satin stitch toot The Stitches and Their These stitches You special can are pureiy sew one row Stretch Uses decoratIve. or several or vary the st=tch wtdth and tength on a scrap ot fabnc special effects lines on a scrap of fabric. Mark the using 4. Lower the for decoration 5. Lower the presser foot, a washable on fabric the marker. needle at the starting point, for Gently maked to see what the stftch fabric, 6. effects. Experlment 3. Stitch Practtce guide the fabric along the line. are possible, 55 PROBLEM PROBABLE Incorrect Irregular Breaking Bunching Puckering Stitches Needle of Thread CORRECTION s}ze needle. improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot, Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate, Choose correct size needle for thread Rethread machine, Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot. and fabric, Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs Do not pull fabric; guide it gently, Choose correct size needle for thread Reset needle, Pultin£ fabric_ incorrect size needle. Reset presser completely. and fabric. foot, Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam. When startmg a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are formed. incorrect Reset thread thread tension. Using two different sizes or kinds Bent or blunt needle, Loose Fabric 56 CAUSE presser foot. too sheer or too soft. of thread, tension, Upper thread and bobbin Insert new needle. thread Reset presser foot, Use underlay of t_ssue paper. should be same s_ze and kind. PROBLEM SMpping PROBABLE Stitches Upper Thread Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needfe. incorrect Reset needle. setting upper ot needle. thread Fabric Bobbin Loosen upper thread tension. Choose correct slze needle for thread Insert new needle. Jamming piate, race. Knocking Noise clutch Thread caught Lmt {n bobbin needle plate, Check bobbin Clean bobbin speed. or polish threading. holder and hook Remove darning plate. Adiust Stitch Length Control. Place both threads back under to stitch. Push in the clutch. is disengaged. m hook race. holder or hook Replace race. and fabric. tension. Tight upper thread tension, incorrect size needle. Push-putt Machine thread Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine. Darning plate in place. Stitch Length set at O. Thread knotted under fabric. not Mowng upper Starting to stitch too fast. Improper threading. Improper bobbin threading. Lint in bobbin holder or hook Thread Loosen tension. Sharp eye in needle, Nicks or burrs at hole of needle Breaking COR RECTION incorrect size needle. Bent or blunt needle, Tight Breaking CAUSE off and fabric. burrs completely, race, presser foot before beginning Disassemble and clean hook race. Clean bobbin holder and hook race. 57 i_Re_pla_ e_tl_e_=_ 'igh_t:i ,B_i_;:_ t_ C Iea n:7,:t he:_Bo6 bl n:HOtd e r:i; _:i To insure essential that parts The bobbin or knock ti your machine operates at _ts best, you need to keep the clean at all times. area can attract _oudiy if a thread dust and lint, Your machine can become sluggish is caught. 1!I .... J Unplug the machine and open the face cover. CAUTION! The .light HOT. fingers handle , Push bulb the bulb wiil Protect bulb when be your it. up counter-clockwise Follow and turn the Put the new up and turning 58 1. 2. bulb in by pushing tt cJockwJse. these directmns: Turn off the power 4_ or unplug Remove firmly it 3. Remove 5. the bobbin pulling cover plate by it toward the bobbin. you. Brush or vacuum the dust and lint out of the bobbin the machine. to remove it. 3. Bobbin cover plate you Replace the bobbin, holder. 6. Slide on the bobbin pushing it into cover plate by the grooves. Open face cover two drops Remove plate and oil points as shown below at least once a year. Oneor of oil is sufficient. excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabrics. ¢ 1. Unplug the machine the presser foot 2. 3_ Remove Remove the the of the needle and remove 5. Take bobbin cover out bobbin and needle. the bobbin. holder Lift and remove up the _t. plate. screw on the left side with the large screw driver. In 4. Remove the needle plate. case machine extended time, Use good quality No other oiling Above require points oiling is not oil it used before sewing machine for an sewing. oil. is required are only area which on this machine. Red marks J J 6. Use the lint brush to clean the 7. Line up the red feed dogs, hook race and bobbm holder. Also use a soft, dry the bobbin next to holder cloth, race, as shown the marks and place so the knob stopper m the fits hook above. 59 PARTS LIST f 4 1 14 12 10 9 / 21 6O 22 23 20 19 17 16 24 25 26 All parts listed herein may be ordered trom any Sears Roebuck and Co. store or service center. WHEN ORDERING INFORMATION: 1. 2. 3. 4. REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM tf the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order witl be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center tor expedited handling. ReL No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 tl 12 t3 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 2t 22 23 24 25 26 Part No. "!02869107 102403202 813404013 647814020 647814031 647814042 647814053 652806014 685502019 825813005 823803006 822804118 "784805004 000009906 820832005 647803004 802424004 647808009 "I3!402005 652802009 213502003 213501002 213504OO5 213505006 213506007 213503004 *200002008 *200003009 *200005001 *200013105 *214872000 *941620000 * Theseitems are notturnished instructions above. i Description 10 bobbins Spool pin felt No. 1t Stretch tabric needles (BLU) No. 1t Single needles (ORG) No. 14 Single needles (RED) No. I6 Single needles (PUR) No. 18 Single needles (GRN) Straight toot Zigzag toot Sliding buttonhole foot Zipper toot Satin stitch foot Needle threader Light bulb Large screw dnver Small screw driver Lint brush Buttonhole opener Oil Darning plate Buttonhole guide plate Base plate Template (Round end small) Template (Round end large) Template (Keyhole) Buttonhole loot Piping toot Gathering toot Pin-tucking foot Hemmer toot Walking loot Ruffler withthe machine, butmay beordered per 61 INDEX A Accessory storage box.............. Appliqueing ..................... F 2,8 23,33 Fabric, needle, thread chart .................... Face cover B Bar tacking ................... Base ........................... Baseplate .............. 4, Basic zigzag ................... Blind hemming ............. Bobbin ........... 4, t5_16, Bobbin holder .......... Bobbin thread .................. Bobbin winding .................. Bobbin winding spindle ........... Box stitching .................. Buttonhole ................... Buttonhole attachment ........ Buttonhole foot ......... 4, t3, Buttonhole gutde plate .... 4, 27, Buttonhole making .............. Buttonhole opener ......... 4, Buttonhole template ...... 4, 27, Button sewing ................. C Cabinet ....................... Changing needle .................. Changing presser foot ............ Cleaning hook race and feed dogs Cornering guide .................. 23, 33 2 48, 60"_61 23, 31 23, 39_40 58, 60_61 16, 58_59 18_19 15 2, 15 25, 53 27, 41 27, 41, 44 27, 44_45 44, 60r_61 41_47 43, 60_61 44, 60_61 23, 35 ...... 2 14 10_11 59 28 Darning .................. 23, 29, 31 Darning plate ..... 4, 29, 31, 34_"35, 60"_61 Decorative geometric patterns ....... 26, 55 62 .......... Fagoting ..................... Feed dogs ................... Foot control ................... Free arm sewing ................ H Hand wheel .................. Herring bone stretch ............. Hook race ...................... L Lace work .................... Large screw driver ............ Light and power switch ............. Light bulb ................. Lint brush ................... length 14 2, 6, 58_59 25, 52 59 3, 5 8_9 3, 18 26, 52 59 40 4, 60_61 3, .5 57, 60_6t 4, 58_61 M Monogramming N Needle Needle Needle Needle, Needle ................ ................ clamp .................. plate ................... thread and fabric chart threading ............... 23, 34 13_14, 60_61 3, 14 2, 16 ........ 14 17"18 O D E Elastic stretch ................. Embroidery ................... Extension table .................. plate and stitch 25, 53 23, 34 2, 8 Oiling ......................... Overcasting stitch ................. Overcast stretch ................ Overedging stitch ............... P Parts list ..................... Performance problems ............ Plug connector ................... Portable case .................... 59 36 24, 38 26, 54 60_6t 56_57 3, 5 2 Power switch ................... Practicaf stitch chart ............ Pressure control diai ............... Presser foot ................. Presser foot lever ................. Push-pull clvtch ................ 3, 5 23_27 6 3, t0_! 3 3, 7 3, 15 R Reverse stitch control .......... Rick-rack stretch stitching ........ 2, 22, 28 23, 36 S Satin stitch foot .................... ....... 4, 12, 24, 26, 32_34, 50, 55, 60_6t Sating stitching ............. 26, 32 Seam guides ..................... 28 Serging ...................... 24, 38 Serging or pine leaf stretch ......... 24, 38 Sewing light ...................... 5 Shell stitching ............... 24, 50 Sliding buttonhole foot ............... .............. 4, 12, 27, 42_43, 60_61 Small screw driver ............ 4, 60_61 Smocking .................... 24, 51 Snap-on button .............. 3, 10 Spoo_ pin felt .............. 4, 7, 60_61 Spool pins .................. 2, 7 Stitch length control .......... . . 2, 21 Stitch selector .................. 3, 20 Stitch width control .............. 2, 21 Straight stitching ............ 23, 28"29 Straight stitch foot ................... ............. 4,11, 23, 28""30, 60_61 Straight stretch stitching .......... 23, 30 Stretch patching ................ 25, 51 Stretch stitch adjuster ........... 3, 21 T Take-up lever ................... Thread guide ................ Three-step zigzag ............... Topstitching ................ 2, 2_3, 24, 23, 17 17 37 29 Top thread .................. Top thread tension ............ Top thread tension control ..... Turning a square corner .......... Two-point box stitching ........... Two-point shell stitching ........ 17_20 19_20 2, t9_20 28 26, 54 25, 50 Z Zigzag ..... Zigzag Zigzag Zipper Zipper foot .................... 11, 23_26, 31, 35_40, 50_53, stitching ........... 23, overcasting ................ application ........... 23, foot ...... 4, 12, 23, 48_49, 60_6t 31_36 36 48_49 60_61 63 # # WARRANTY FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY For 25 years from •_ m the mechanical FULL # For the date of purchase, components TWO YEAR two years appear _n the speed control. ON SEWING from electrical Sears will, of the sewing WARRANTY the MACHINE date equipment purchase, of the _= repair _n material or workmanship which appear Sears will, free machine, # () EQUIPMENT sewing defects head, ON ELECTRICAL of HEAD free of charge, machine .---- OF SEWING of charge, including repair MACHINE defects electronic # in material components, or workmanship motor, w_rmg, which switch and (1 _ # # FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY For 90 days from necessary for proper ON ALL the date operation PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance. and provide mechanical service 0 # WARRANTY SERVICE CENTER/DEPARTMENT Th_s warranty IS AVAILABLE IN THE gives you specific UNITED legal rights, SEARS, BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS STATES. {) and you may also have other ROEBUCK AND SERVICE CO., D1817 WA, rights Hoffman which vary from Estates, state to state. IL 60179 SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Serv,ce Canter. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit, The model number of your Sewing Machine witl be shown on your nomenclature your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS *MODEL *NAME If the Repair NUMBER parts you need Parts Distribution INFORMATION: OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION are not Center SEARS, S-385 GIVE THE FOLLOWING plate on the back of stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears for handling. ROEBUCK AND CO,, Chicago, Printed tL60684 in Taiwan UoS.A. Part No, 652800443 @