Download Sears 385.12814 Owner`s manual

OWNER'S MANUAL
SEWING
MODEL
MACHINE
385.
17622
SEARS, ROEBUCK
AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You
have just
invested
in a very
please pause for a moment
and care for your
Specific
fine
machine.
read this booklet
Before
which
using your
contains
new Kenmore
instructions
on how
machine,
to operate
machine.
instructions
are given
obtain
the best sewing
Advice
on the
results
operation
on threading,
and avoid
if you
have questions
the model
and serial number
tension
adjustments,
unnecessary
and care of your
Please remember,
number
zigzag sewing
and carefully
machine
about
when
cleaning,
service expense
is always
your
available
machine
oiling,
etc. This will
for conditions
at your
or need parts
beyond
help you
our control.
nearest Sears Retail
and service,
Store.
always mention
you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Z "
Record
in space
number
of
are located
this
provided
appliance.
below
the
The model
on the nomenclature
model
number
number
and
and serial
plate,
as identified
Serial
No.
serial
number
on Page 4 of
this booklet.
Model
No. 385.
Retain
these numbers
THIS
MODEL
for future
IS A CENTER
reference.
NEEDLE,
LOW BAR
SEWING
MACHINE.
IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
Your
sewing
machine
Read all instruction
is designed
before
and constructed
using this sewing
4.
Never
only for HOUSEHOLD
use.
5.
Never
6.
Do not
7.
Do
not
oxygen
reduce the risk of electric
1.
An appliance
unplug
this
and before
2.
should
the
electric
outlet
plugged
immediately
3.
Do not reach
immediately.
4.
Do not place
1.
Do not
before
for
relamping.
the
Replace
appliance
that
bulb
with
has fallen
or store
appliance
where
Do not place
in or drop
into water
allow
Use this
to
be used as a toy.
Never
working
center
9.
using
same type
into
it can fall
water.
or be pulled
or other
rated
Close attention
air
opening
and foot
blocked.
controller
Keep
free from
dust, and loose cloth.
any object
into any opening.
use outdoors.
operate
where
aerosol
(spray)
products
are being used or where
is being administered.
turn
all controls
to the
off
('0")
position,
then
appliance
only
operate
this
properly,
Return
for
its intended
recommended
appliance
if it has a damaged
if it has been
the appliance
for examination,
repair,
use as described
by the manufacturer
dropped
to the
nearest
electrical
cord
or damaged,
authorized
or mechanical
in this manual.
as contained
or plug,
if it is not
or dropped
dealer
in
into
or service
adjustment.
remove
outlet.
unplug
fingers
by pulling
away
the sewing
on cord.
from
all
machine
To unplug,
moving
parts.
grasp the plug, not
Special
care
the
is required
needle,
Always
use the
needle to break.
proper
12.
Do not use bent
needles.
13.
Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.
It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14.
Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in
the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading
bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.
15.
Always
fire, electric shock,
when this
any
11,
liquid.
is necessary
Keep
around
Unplug
into a tub
of lint,
To disconnect,
Do not
cord.
with
of the sewing machine
needle
unplug the sewing
plate.
The wrong
plate
can cause the
machine from the electrical outlet when
removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments
mentioned in the instruction manual.
is used by or near children.
Use only attachments
this manual.
water.
after
to persons.
appliance
2.
Always
10.
WAR N IN G- To reduce the risk of burns,
orinjury
in.
cleaning.
Always
unplug
15 Watts.
or sink.
from
when
appliance
drop or insert
plug from
never be left unattended
appliance
8.
shock;
the
openings
accumulation
machine.
DA N G ER- To
operate
ventilation
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
TABLE •OF CONTENTS
SECTION
1.
KNOW THE MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available ..............
Locate and Identify the Parts ..................
Identify the Accessories ........................
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
3
3_4
4
FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine .........................
5_7
• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power .......
5
• Foot Control Use ..........................
5
• Setting Spool Pins ..........................
6
• Adjust the PresserFoot Lever ..................
6
• Thread Cutter ............................
6
• Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table , , . 7
• Accessories Storage Box ......................
7
• Change the Presser Foot ......................
7
Choose the Needle and Thread .................
7_8
• To Change the Needle .......................
7
• Check the Needle ..........................
B
• Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ......
8
Prepare the Bobbin ........................
9_10
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ......
9
• Windthe Bobbin .......................
9_10
• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ...........
10
Prepare the Top Thread .....................
11_12
• Thread the Needle ........................
11
• Pick Upthe Bobbin Thread ..................
12
Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................
13_14
Reverse Stitch Control ........................
14
Stitch Selector .............................
15
Stitch Length Control ........................
16
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance .................
16
Starting To Sew ............................
17
SECTION
3.
Zigzag Stitches ...........................
• Basic Zigzag .............................
• Satin Stitch .............................
• Applique ...............................
• Bar Tacking .............................
• Sew a Button ............................
• Overcasting Stitch .........................
• Three-Step Zigzag .........................
• Blind Hemming ..........................
• LaceWork ..............................
• Shell Stitching ...........................
• Box Stitching ............................
• Fagoting Stitch ..........................
• Decorate with Geometic Patterns ...............
Stretch Stitches ..........................
• Straight Stretch ..........................
• Rick-Rack Stretch ........................
• Smocking ..............................
• Overcast Stretch Stitching
...................
• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............
• Elastic Stretch Stitch .......................
• Herring Bone Stretch .......................
• Decorative Stretch Patterns ..................
Buttonbholes ............................
SECTION
SECTION
Turna
Square Corner
......................
Topstitching
............................
Left Needle Position
.......................
1B
19
lg
•
•
•
Sew in a Zipper
........................
Use the Darning Plate
......................
Darning
...............................
20_21
22
22
"!
PROBLEMS CHART
5.
, • ........
38_39
CARE FOR THE MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb ......................
Cleaning the Machine
......................
• Clean the Feed Dogs .......................
• Cleanthe
Shuttle Race
.....................
Oiling the Machine
..........................
• Oil behing the Face Cover Plate and Under
Arm Cover Plate ..........................
• Oil the Underside
.........................
18_22
18
18
•
•
•
PERFORMANCE
What to Do When ...............
LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches
..........................
• . Straight Stitch
...........................
• Usethe
Seam Guides .......................
4.
23_31
23
23
24
24
25
: 26
27
28
29
29
30
31
31
32_35
32
32
33
33
34
34
35
35
36_37
40
40_41
40
41
42
42
42
PARTS LIST ........................................
43
INDEX
44
............................................
SECTION
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available
A
full
nearest
line
of
Sears
sewing
retail
cabinets
store
or
is available
through
1.
KNOW THE MACHINE
Locate and Identify the Parts
at
our
your
general
catalog.
Another
your
option
Kenmore
. . . buy
goes
a Carrying
anywhere,
can
.where.
Case
be
Take-up
Lever
Bobbin
Winding
stored
any-
Thread
Selector
Top
%
Upper
Thread
Guide
Spool
Pins
. , . then
Thread
Tension
Tension
Disc
Release
Bobbin
\
Winding
Spindle
Length
Control
Stitch
Control
Stitch
Selector
Control
Stitch
Face Cover
Plate
Thread
Cutter
Needle
Plate
Reverse
Shuttle
Extension
(Accessory
Table
storage
box)
Cover
i,
SECTION
1.
KNOW THE MACHINE
Identify
Arm
Cover Plate
Carrying
the Accessories
Handle
nhole
Hand Wheel
opener
Bobbin
Presser
Auto
Clutch
Foot
Lever
Knob
_
Large screw driver
Light and
Power Switch
Free Arm
Sliding
buttonhole
Darning
Plug Connector
_Nomenclature
foot
plate
Plate
Zipperfoot
Lint brush
Foot
Control
Straight
stitch foot
all screw driver
Needle
Clamp
Screw
Satin
foot
Presser Foot
stitch
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine
Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
•
Foot Control
Use
light
Foot
Plug
connector
4.
Push the light
on the power
and power
and sewing
switch
to turn
light.
To
FEATURE:
Before
inserting
machine,
be
the
sure
plug
the
into
power
Your
your
switch
is
OFF.
1.
Check
Volt
2.
Insert
plug
your
outlet
to
be sure it is a 110 to 120
machine
connector,
ptug
as shown.
into
the
It will
three-prong
only
fit one
way.
3,
Insert the power
supply
plug into the outlet.
"For
will
switch
interrupted
or
light/power
children,
switch
OPERATING
AC outlet.
the
machine
light/power
control
you
not
operate
is turned
stop
sewing,
to
unless
the
If you
are
on.
turn
prevent
off
the
injury
to
regulates
the
speed
at
saw,
increase
speed,
the ball of your
J
NOTE:
foot
which
Machine
plug
SAFETY
The
control
To decrease
gently
press down
with
foot.
speed,
release
your
foot
pres-
sure slightly.
NOTE:
INSTRUCTIONS
appliances
with a polarized
plug (one blade wider than the other).
To reduce the risk of electric
shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a
polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install
the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way."
The foot control is sensitive and
wilt increase'or
decrease your
sewing
speed
immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewing speed to
your taste and needs.
"Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models
385.1148xxx, 385.1158xxx, 385.1168xxx, 385.1258xxx,
385.1268xxx,
385.12612 x x x, 385.1278x x x, 385.11607x x x, 385.12710× x x, 385.12TI4x x x,
385.12712xxx, 385.17622xxx,
385.11608xxx, 385.12814xxx and 385.12014xx×.
x xx - represents numbers 000 through 999."
(For U.S.A. market only)
100-316-005
5
SECTION
•
f
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
•
Setting Spool Pins
Spool
FOR SEWING
Adjust
•
the Presser Foot Lever
Thread
Cutter
t
"
Normal
position
up
positior
High
position
ip
position
Presser foo'_
lever
J
The spool pins are used for holding the spool
of thread
in order to feed thread
to the
machine.
To use, pull
for storage.
The
Presser
Foot
Lever
the
spool
pins.
Push down
and
lowers
your
up position
to
help
foot.
you
You
thread
presser foot.
You can raise it about
up
raises
1/4"
for easy removal
place
heavy
higher
than the normal
of the presser foot
fabrics
under
or
the presser
don't
need a pair
after
handy thread
Pull
before
the
you finish
cut the
sewing.
Just
use the
several
inches
cutter.
threads
starting
of scissors to
to
lengthen
the next seam.
SECTION
Set Up the Machine
•
2.
(Continued)
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Choose the Needle and Thread
Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable
Extension Table
•
Accessory
Storage Box
Change the PresserFoot
• To Changethe Needle
!
Needle clamp screw
%
Flat
side
away
fror£1
J
To Remove
the Extension
(for free-arm
1.
Grip
The
sewing)
the
table
and thumb,
2.
you
Table
Pull gently
table will
with
your
index
finger
as shown.
to the
The extension
the
accessory storage
box lifts
open toward
Sewing
accessories
ently
left,
lid of
located
you.
are
in the box.
Use the correct
the stitch
the Extension
To
change
feet,
(for flat-bed
1.
screw,
sewing)
Insert
the
tab
the
pin
into
their
catches.
2.
With
gently
your
thumb
snap in.
and
index
finger,
Tighten
various
presser
position
NOTE:
by
the
the presser
1.
Loosen
foot thumb
2.
foot,
the bottom.
screw
using
large
screw
driver
to
certain
the foot
the
make
to
the
its
highest
hand
wheel
you.
needle
it toward
Remove
bar
the
clamp
screw
by
you.
needle
by pulling
it down-
ward.
3.
the
needle
by turning
the
turning
the proper
the
toward
bar to its
lifting
Raise
position
presser
lever.
choose
insert from
and
the
raise the
Loosen
Table
)
you wish to sew.
presser foot
To Attach
for
conveni-
highest
snap out.
presser foot
Insert
the
new
clamp
with
the flat
needle
into
the
needle
side away from
you.
4.
Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5.
Tighten
is secure.
with
the
the
accessory
needle
large
box.
clamp
screwdriver
screw
from
firmly
the
r
z¸
,/•
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
i¸
FOR SEWING
•
Fabric,
Needle,
Thread
FABRIC
Lightweight:
Batiste, Dimity,
Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta,
Voile,
Organdy
j
Your
choice
of
needle
and
thread
depends
on
the
fabric
you
are
sewing.
In the
needle
envelope,
you
will
find
the
following
color-coded
needles:
Blue
(11 )
Orange
Red
for
stretch
(11 ) ........
.........
for
lightweight
..........
for
medium
(14)
weight
Purple
(16)
........
for
fabrics.
or
medium-heavy
fabrics.
and decorative
hole
weight
Length
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
11-ORANGE
Medium
Weight:
CQtton, Cotton Blend,
Percale, Gingham,
Shantung,
Pique,
Seersucker, Satin, Knit,
Suiting,
Linen,
Wool Crepe, Leather
14-RED
Medium Heaw Weight:
Corduroy,
Denim, Wool,
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,
Gabardine,
Velvet,
Leather
14-RED
or
16-PURPLE
Chart
THREAD
RECOMMENDED
STITCH
LENGTH
SETTING
SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized
Co,on
Silk A
2
(12 stitches
inch)
50 Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester
Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
2-2.5
(10-12 stitches
per inch)
per
for
needle
thicker
50 Mercerized Cotton
Mercerized
Heavy-Duty
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
2--3
{8-10 stitches
per inch)
Heavy Duty
Cotton
3
fabrics
topstitching
(This
thread
Stitch
fabrics.
medium-heavy
fabrics.
and
on these
has
a larger
topstitching
Heavy Weight:
Coating, Upholstery
Cotton Duck, Heavy
Twills, Canvas
18-GREEN
Polyester
Wrap
Silk A
Mercerized
Core/Cotton
(8 stitches
inch)
per
thread.)
I
Green
(18)
........
for
heavy
decorative
weight
fabrics
and
top-stitching
on
these
at your
nearest
Sears
fabrics.
Replacement
Kenmore
needles
are
Stretch
available
store.
•
Check the Needle
1.
Look for barbed
2.
A damaged
needle can cause permanent
knits, fine silks and silk-like
fabrics.
Always
buy a good
be strong,
8
smooth
or blunt
quality
point.
thread.
and consistent
Decorative top-stitching
on all types of fabric
It should
in thickness.
snags or
resist tangling
runs
and
in
Fabric:
Polyester Double Knit,
Nylon Tricot. Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Cire Tricot
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
Buttonhole
Twist
(Use as top thread only)
3--4
(6-8 stitches
per inch)
11-BLUE
{STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton
2-2.5
(10-12 stitches
per inch)
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Prepare the Bobbin
•
•
To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
Wind the Bobbin
Release
J
Remove
the
the
machine
left.
Open
pulling
down
extension
by
the
table
pulling
shuttle
the embossed
it
from
to
the
cover
by
part on
the left side of the cover.
Raise needle
by rotating
i•!
to its highest
position
hand wheel toward
you.
To
remove
tle, pull
Pull
bobbin
shuttle.
bobbin
open
case from
shut-
latch of bobbin
case.
case
straight
out
of
clutch
turning
the
inside the hand
by
wheel
clutch
knob
toward
you to stop the needle from
moving
bobbin.
while
you
wind
the
SECTION
•
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
f
)
Draw thread from
spool through
bobbin winding tension disc as shown,
Pull
end
bobbin
of
thread
through
hole
in
as shown.
Place
bobbin
spindle
with
from
the
bobbTn
until
•
onto
end
top
of
winding
it clicks.
thread,
start
slightly
filled,
bobbin
of
thread
winding
Wind
thread until
coming
Push
bobbin
the
bobbin.
Push
spindle
to
right
Turn
clutch
knob
away
while
holding
hand
wheel
Holding
machine.
the
onto
end
of
When bobbin
is
and clip
thread.
spindle
left
Remove
to
the
bobbin.
from
for
you
normal
sewing operation.
snip off end of thread.
Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
J
,J
Place
bobbin
in
bobbin
case
making sure thread feeds clockwise
and
is coming
from
bobbin
10
winder stops.
winding
as shown.
Pull thread
as shown.
through
slot of case
Pull
thread
under
tension
spring and through the opening
as shown above. Pull 3 to 4
inches
of thread
from
bobbin.
Holding
case
latch.
into
latch
open,
shuttle
and
position
release
Case
should
when
latch
lock
into
is released.
place
SECTION
Prepare
•
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
the Top Thread
Thread the Needle
J
Raise take-up
lever to its highest
Raise presser foot
Place spool
The numbered
on the
Dotted
loops
steps above follow
the numbers
illustrations.
lines
and then
show
places
is pulled
tight.
where
the
position
by turning
hand wheel toward
you.
lever.
on spool
pin as shown,
1.
Draw thread
into
thread
2.
While
holding
check
spring holder.
3.
Firmly
draw thread
4.
Draw thread
5.
Thread
thread
down
with
thread
coming
from
the back of the spool.
guide using both hands.
near spool,
up and through
and slip it into
draw
thread
down
into
the
lever from
right
to left.
left side needle bar thread
guide.
take-up
tension
area and then
around
the
thread
NOTE:
You
needle from
may want
front
to back.
to cut the end of thread
with
sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
11
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Pick Up the Bobbin Thread
!
1.
Raise
presser foot
thread
loosely
handwheel
lever.
Hold
top
2.
you
bobbin
thread
up
pick
up bobbin
1.
Is needle threaded
2.
Is thread
3.
Are 3 to 4 inches of thread
4.
Is thread
5.
Is bobbin
6.
Is the machine
12
tangled
from
from
thread
front
around
shuttle
properly
steps given above, then
to back?
needle?
from
the shuttle?
tanglecl?
installed
threaded
by following
coming
in the bobbin
according
pulling
3.
Pull
both
of
threads
case?
to the instructions?
check:
under
"the presser
to 6 inches
one complete
turn.
If you cannot
by
back
top thread.
in left hand and rotate
toward
Bring
of thread
foot,
clear.
and to
leaving
the
4
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
Choose
Top
side
of fabric
the Correct
Tension:
The best tension will
Setting
mark
---
(
thread
depend
on;
the stiffness
and thickness
the number
of fabric
the type
of the fabric
layers
of stitch
The top thread
is too loose.
The top thread
is too tight
Tighten
thread
Top side
of fabric
For Straight
The
ideal
fabric,
If you
Top side
of fabric
Stitch
straight
as shown
look
stitch
will
have threads
above, magnified
at the
gaps, that each stitch
stitch,
front
is smooth
locked
between
the two
layers
of
The top thread
appears on the
underside of the
fabric.
to show detail.
and back,
you will
notice
that
there
are no
The bobbin thread
appears on the
upper surface of the
fabric.
and even.
When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top
thread.
Tension
is too
loose:
The top
thread
shows through
bottom
of the fabric. The bottom
of the stitch
will
feel bumpy.
Tension
the
side
The
the
is too tight:
bobbin
top
the stitch
thread
will
of the fabric.
come
The top
through
side of
wilt feel bumpy.
13
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Reverse Stitch Control
For Zigzag Stitch
In a correct
of
fabric
below for
tension.
Top
Too
zigzag
and
the
stitch,
top
the correct
the
bobbin
threads
will
appearance.
tension
Top
not show on the top side
on the
bottom
this appearance,
adjust
side.
the
See
top
tension
Too
Top
will
slightly
To match
Tight
Top side of Fabric
threads
show
Loose
Just Right
side of Fabric
Top side of Fabric
To reverse stitch, hold down this control during
sewing.
Release to sew forward again.
Bottom
side of Fabric
Bottom
Too Tight:
--
14
Corner
of
each
zigzag
will
pull
together
on
the
top side of fabrics.
.
side of Fabric
Bottom
side of Fabric
Too
Loose:
Just Right:
--
The
top
thread
will
loop through
bottom
side
of
fabric
and will be
pulled
almost
together.
Minimize
the
amount
of top thread visible on
the
bottom
side
of
fabric
without
causing
excessive puckering
or
causing
the
bobbin
thread
to show on the
top side.
Results vary
with fabric,
thread and
sewing conditions.
SECTION
2.
PREPARE THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Stitch Selector
Jr. .....
I
I
stitch patterns are color-coded to recommend
length control.
Selector Release
setting zones at the stitch
ZONES
Setting mark (_)_etting
mark @_
/"
"'_tito. Selector
=.
=
•
Red
•
Green
.........
•
Blue .........
Built-in
Buttonhole
•
Brown
Stretch
Stitches
........
.......
Straight,
Zigzag and Utility
Geometric
Decorative
Stitches
Stitches
Making
=
= \=
lt%.o_Pattern
1)
2)
Selector Dial
Raise the needle to its highest position.
Select the desired pattern at the setting mark(_)by turning the pattern selector
dia!. Dial will not turn past "SELECT"
right,
When you select patterns
a)
First,
slide the
on the selector
b)
Then,
selector
c)
Slide
selector
Note:
Do
select
A to I
selector
release
to the right
release meets the setting
the
without moving selector release to the
desired
pattern
selector'
release
so that
mark@on
at the setting
the "SELECT
A to
!" mark
the machine.
mark
I by turning
the pattern
dial.
back
the
release meets the setting
not
position.
turn
the
pattern
to the
left
mark(_)on
selector
dial
so that
the
"SEW"
mark
on the
the machine.
while
the
needle
is in the
lower
It may cause the needle to'break.
15
SECTION
2.
PREPARE
THE MACHINE
FOR SEWING
Stitch Length Control
Adjusting Stretch Stitch
0
//
Stitch
!
Length
\
1,,
/
=H !)t'
o--1-1-3-,-_
3
Balance
4
,./-Setting
I
I
I
I
/
titch
/
Length
\
o--i--=-,,;--+--,
---I
t
,,
lJ
mark
Yn
+_
= i] 1
\
• i
,,¢/
Stitch ._
"'.._.._
Control
etting mark
The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch, and also has a stretch stitch
setting.
The higher the number,
"0" means no feed.
the longer
the stitch.
To select Stretch Stitches, set this control at • position.
NOTE:
When you select decorative stitches (green) or built-in buttonhole (blue),
make sure that you do not set the stitch length control at • position.
Study the red, green, brown and blue section around this control. These
are recommended zones of stitch length and are colorcoded to the
stitches pictured on the stitch indicator panel.
To select Stretch
position.
Stitches,
set this control at •
be in the detent position between S and L (Vposition)
for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric
used, you may need to adjust this control to match
forward stitches of stretch sewing with reversemotion
stitches.
To shorten stretch stitches, turn the control slightly
toward "S". To lengthen, turn toward "L"+
L
-
•
•
Smock ing stretch
Rickrack
16
stretch
S
SECTION2.
StartingTo
Now
that
Kenmore
1.
Sew
you
are familiar
sewing
Inspect
afraid
PREPARETHE MACHINEFORSEWING
the
with
machine.
needle.
to change
the controls
Below
It should
your
on your
are some good
be straight,
needle frequently.
machine
habits
properly
Many
and with
to follow
each time
set and sharp
of the new fabrics
the accessories
you sit down
on the point.
provided
for the machine,
you are ready to start to sew with your
new
to sew:
It should
made of synthetic
blends
be the correct
tend
size for the fabric
to dull the needles more
and thread
being used. Do not be
easily than fabrics
made of natural
fibers.
2.
3.
4.
Before
placing
during
the sewing
Test the
the material
machine
tension
suitable
Fabric
should
seam marking
on the machine,
the ends of the threads
have been drawn
about
4 inches to the rear of the mach!ne_
Ho!don
to threads
stitch
on a scrap of the fabric
you
plan to use. The fabric
should
be double
thickness.
Adjust
the
the bulk
to the left of the needle and the right
machine
for the length
of stitch and
to the fabric.
be placed
under
the presser
on the needle plate when
5,
Run the machine
6.
Fasten
7.
Always
8.
Guide
9,
When turning
sewing
the fabric
foot
making
at a slow even speed. The more
each seam by back tacking
finish
see that
of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
sewing
each seam with
gently
with
the hand wheel
your
pressure
of the material
edge of the material
placed on the 5/8'"
seam.
you put on the foot
control,
the faster the machine
will
sew.
a few stitches in reverse.
the needle
hand in front
manually,
with
a simple
always
at its highest
point.
of the needle.
Never pull
turn
you.
it toward
or hold
the fabric
in such a way that the normal
feeding
is altered.
17
SECTION
Straight
3.
LEARN THE STITCHES
Stitches
Straight Stitch
Use the Seam Guides
Set the Machine
Stitch
I
I
I
Stitch length
control red
zone
Stitch selector
Cornering
The
Straight foot
1.
2.
Raise the presser foot.
Raise
the
needle
to
7.
its
highest
position ....
At
the end of the
want
8_
to reverse
Raise the presser
the fabric,
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
3.
Place
the
edge of
the fabric
next
seam, you
may
to lock the stitch,
foot
Guide
seam
are there
guides on the needle
to
help
you
plate
measure
seam
width.
The lines are 1/8" apart,
the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.
with
and remove
t
T_o+uare
Corner
.....
-
_"
Zigzag foot
needle
plate
(5/8"
is
most
common),
g
4.
Draw
the
threads
5.
back and lower the presser foot.
to a stitching guide line on the
Press the foot control.
6.
Hold
the fabric
guide
it
along
towards
loosely
the
it feeds naturally,
Do
not
pull
it tight,
force
the
fabric
9.
Cut the threads.
[
!i ii'i:
and gently
guide
that
the
line,
so
To turn
fabric
or try
to
1,
a square corner
Stop
stitching
by
turning
toward
you
when
facing
you
lines
Raise
the
Lower
stitching
18
from
the
lower
hand
the fabric
up
with
the
wheel
edge
the
guide, as shown.
the
fabric
the 5/8"
3.
and
needle
cornering
2.
5/8"
edge:
presser
foot
to
the
edge with
presser foot
and begin
line
and
turn
seam guide.
the
in the new direction.
i
SECTION
•
3.
LEARN THE STITCHES
Left Needle Position
Topstitching
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Stitch
I
1
I
Stitch length
control red
zone
Stitch selector
Here's How
Straight foot
1.
2.
Lower
Keep
to
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
the presser foot.
the
the
edge of
edge
guide
the fabric
Evenly
produce
topstitching
NOTE:
your
and Its Uses
emphasizes
garment
and
keeps
two
outer
suits
rows
of
or
next
presser
the
lines
seams
of
and
3/8'"
can
from
easily
from
topstitching
with
one or
around
the
of
the edge.
adjust
center
topstitching
without
your
from
fabric
©
along this
an even row
zigzag presser foot.
blouses
edges of cuffs,
You
needle
edges flat and crisp.
Accent
the
foot.
or
edge to
Topstitching
of
Zigzag foot
3.
The Stitch
the fabric
right
your
to left for
moving
under
Use
Left
Needle
Position
control
while
topstitching
stitching
difficult
NOTE:
Use
only
foot
for
for
or
more
edge
fabrics.
the
zigzag
presser
Left
Needle
Sewing.
lapels or collars.
19
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
•
Fabric
Put
the
gether
per
right
and
Set the Machine
sides
of
the
fabric
to-
Use the
reverse
to
lock
the stitches.
the
length
at "'3"'.
at
Zipper
1/8")
Stitch
teeth
sew to the end of the zip-
opening.
Sew
Sew in a Zipper
Preparation:
zipper
"4"
opening
and
top
with
thread
Zipper
I
I
I
tape
stitch
tension
Stitch selector
Stitch length
control 2
To Sew:
1.
control 3 to 6
2.
4.
Turn
under
ance to form
3.
the
a 1/8"
Place the zipper
1/8"
fold
right
seam allow-
next
foot
on the left side
of the needle.
5.
fold.
teeth
To sew the left side of the zipper,
set the zipper
Fold back the left seam allowance
as shown.
to the
Lower the zipper foot on the right
side at the bottom of the zipper
so that the needle pierces the fold
and the zipper tape.
and pin in place.
6.
Sew through the fold and the zipper tape to the point where the
slider begins.
7.
Lower the needle to hold the fabric and raise the presser foot.
2O
SECTION
8.
9.
Open theztpper.
Lower
10.
the presser
foot
Close
and stitch
fabric
the
zipper
right
and
turn
the
11.
side up.
the rest of the seam.
12.
To
sew the
side of the needle.
INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
AND
!
CORDING
INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
the foot so the needle is sewing through
the center hole of the foot and one groove of
the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper as
shown. Follow the zipper manufacturer's instructions. After zipper has been inserted, finish
sewing
seam
by shifting
foot to side position
sewing
through
side notch,
Adjust
across
zipper
of
right
Stitch
the
side
set
tom
13.
right
per,
and
the zip-
foot
on
the
bot-
the
corner
and continue
to
guide
the
teeth,
as shown.
Stitch
through
zipper
foot
the
zipper
Stop
about
2" from
Lower
the
needle
Remove
fabric
and
into
the fabric
the
basting
stitches
and
open the zipper.
17.
Lower
the foot
and stitch
of the seam. Make
the
the top of the
and raise the presser foot.
16.
along
LEARN THE STITCHES
zipper.
15.
below
of the zipper.
Turn
14,
the
3.
the rest
sure the fold
is
even.
tape.
CORDING
Foot
can
covers
also
etc.
fabric
end
be
used
Cover
sew
e
to make
cord
with
cording
a strip
for
slip-
of
bias
as shown.
NOTE:
Use
(6757)
which
"Low
Bar
for
can
Sewing
"'invisible
be obtained
Machine
zipper"
at any
ZIPPER
end
Sears
FOOT"
"cording",
retail
store.
21
SECTION
3.
LEARN
Use the Darning
THE STITCHES
Plate
Darning
Set the Machine
Stitch
I
I
I
Stitch selector
Sometimes
when
to control
the fabric
you
sew,
you
Stitch length
control any number
(not necessary to
adjust)
want
youself.
Here's
The
Darning
so that
they
do not touch
To Put on the Darning
NOTE:
the fabric.
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Plate:
The rectangular
holes
Darning
match
Plate
Darning
plate
1.
Put the darning plate on the needle plate
2.
Remove presser foot
between embroidery
centered.
3.
Draw the bobbin thread up through the
fabric by holding the top thread and taking
one stitch at the spot where you wish to
start darning.
4.
Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow
speed.
5.
Move the fabric back and forth slowly until
you have covered the darning area.
6.
Turn the fabric a half turn and sew another
in the
the
holes
in the needle plate.
the
darning
holes
are slightly
plate,
No presser
foot
2.
to the left
Position the darning plate with
the 3 pins on the bottom.
Fit the darning plate pins into the
needle plate holes. The feed dogs
will show through the darning
plate holes.
layer of stitching over the first layer.
Use the darning plate in the following
ways:
Darning (P. 22)
Button Sewing (P. 25)
NOTE:
7.
22
and stretch fabric
hoops with hole
In
these
of center.
1.
How
Plate covers the feed dogs
If your fabric is thin
or badly
damaged, use a separate piece of fabric
under the hole to reinforce it,
When you finish
plate.
darning,
remove
the darning
SECTION
3.
LEARN THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches
Basic Zigzag
Satin Stitch
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Zigzag
width
:
Close to 0
Stitch
1
Stitch length
_ntrul it_J
Stitch selector
zone
Top thread tension
control 2 to 5
Zigzag foot
2
Stitch
length :
Stitch selector
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Satin stitch foot
Here's How
The Stitch
The
zigzag
common
your
and Its Uses
stitch
and most versatile
machine.
for sewing
ming,
is one
It
can
with
buttons,
trims,
also
mending
be used
stitch
hem-
and darnto decorate
and cut-out
stitch.
most
stitches on
buttonholes,
appliques
or as a decorative
of the
It can be a utility
overcasting,
ing.
The Stitch and Its Uses
work
The Satin stitch is a versatile and often
used decorative stitch, but it can also
be used to overcast a raw edge (for example, blankets, linens, tablecloths
and napkins).
The Satin stitch is especially attractive
in applique.
Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a scrap of
the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light
weight fabrics.
There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch.
Consult the specific variations for detailed directions.
Satin Stitch p. 23
Applique
Work p. 24
Bar Tacking p. 24
Button Sewing p. 25
Overcasting
p, 26
Three-step zigzag p. 2__7
Rick-rack
stretch p. 32
Overcast stretch p. 33
Serging p. 34
23
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
•
Bar Tacking
Applique
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
HI
Stitch selector
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
Satin stitch foot
Stitch selector
Baste
(or
joiner)
applique
fuse
Stitch
around
with
iron-on
fabric
This
stitch
is similar
pieces
on the
fabric.
satin
stitch
and
making
points
the
applique
sure the needle falls along the outer
edge of the applique.
When sewing corners, lower the needle
down into the fabric. Raise the presser
foot and pivot the fabric to the right
or left.
24
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
of
strain
to a very short
is used to
such
reinforce
as corners
pockets and straps on lingerie,
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches,
or
•
SECTION
3.
LEARN THE STITCHES
Sew a Button
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch length control
any number (not
necessary to adjust)
Stitch selector
Zigzag foot
Use the darning
plate for button
1.
Set the stitch selector
at "
2.
Align
the
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
both
holes
hole of the button
Darning
of
sewing
CII _
button
To strengthen
the shank,
cut
the
threads leaving a 20 cm (8") tail. Bring
(see p. 22).
,,
the
with
the slot of the foot
and place the left
just below the needle point.
needle
thread
hole in the button
down
through
and wind
the
it around
the shank.
plate
3.
Lower
the
foot
and turn the
comes just above the right
4.
Sew about
5.
Set the stitch
stitch
selector
to
zigzag until
the
needle point
hole of the button.
Draw
the
thread
to
the
bottom
side
and knot.
five stitches and raise needle.
selector
at ,,
I
"again
c1_
and sew a few stitches to lock
thread.
25
SECTION
Zigzag
•
3.
Stitches
LEARN
THE STITCHES
(Continued)
Overcasting Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
selector
Stitch length
control 1 to 2
't j
Helpful Hints
Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
The Stitch
Zigzag
foot
and Its Uses
This zigzag variation is very useful in
garment construction and in finishing
raw edges of any sewing project.
26
raw corner of your seam. If you start
right at the edge, the fabric will bunch
up and the stitches will become
tangled.
SECTION
Zigzag Stitches
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
(Continued)
Three-Step Zigzag
The Stitch and Its Uses
Set the Machine
The three-step zigzag is a combination
zigzag and straight stitch. You may use
the three-step zigzag everywhere you
would use the basic zigzag stitch, It
has more strength, elasticity, and is
flatter than a regular zigzag.
Stitch
Selector
release
I
Stitch
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
selector
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
mending
sewing patches smoothly
securely,
repairing straight tears.
finishing seams.
and
Seam Finishing
Mending
Place the fabric under the presser foot
so that the edge will be slightly inside
the right hand side of the presserfoot.
Position the tear under the needle so
that the stitching will catch both sides.
Guide the work so the right hand
stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW"
position.
27
SECTION
•
Blind
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Hemming
1/4"
Set the Ma_J_ine
Stitch
Light
Weight
Fabric
Selector retease
I
Stitch tength
control 1 to 3
Stitch selector
Heavy
Weight
Fabric
Top thread tendon
control 1 to 4
Finish
2.
Measure, tUrn up your hem and pin.
NOTE:
Zigzag foot
j
1.
the raw edge of your
For light
weight fabrics,
3.
Fold the material
4.
Place garment
under
should just catch
5.
%_
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector
position.
28
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW"
After
NOTE;
hemming,
The blind
(wrong
hem any way you desired.
you
may need a double
(See Overcasting,
fold.
side out) on the edge to be stitched,
presser foot
the fold
press both
in such a manner
p. ?_66)
that
as shown, leaving 1/4"
straight
stitches
of the finished
will be sewn on extended
hem edge showing.
edge.
The zigzag stitd
of the garment.
sides of the finished
hem stitch also can be used for
hem.
The top
Lace Work.
side of the garment
(See p. 29)
will
show only
the blind
stitches.
SECTION
Lace Work
3.
LEARNTHE
STITCHES
Shell Stitching
Here's How
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
1.
Stitch
Stitch
For best effect:
--
set the
stitch
-
desire.
you may need to tighten
top thread
Selector release
--
Selector release
allow
__._
length
as you
the
tension slightly.
the
needle
clear the folded
to
just
edge of the
!
Stitch length
control 1to 2
I
Stitch selector
Stitch length
control 1
Stitch selector
fabric when it zigzags.
2.
Zigzag foot
._
Top thread tension
control 3 to 9
_
Lace
_
to blouses
linenSand
pillows andbecome
lingerie. more
Table elegant
adds
a fanciful,
when trimmed
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector
position.
to
slide
sew rows of shell stitches,
space
the rows 1/2" apart.
can sew
You
Shell Stitch on knits
soft silky wovens in any direction.
_.
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
If you
back
the
release to the "SEW"
Turn
I/2".
with
feminine
excess fabric
_
_
_
under
and Its Uses
The
is formed
by sewing
blind Shell
hem Stitch
over folded
fabric.
Several a
tucks.r°ws
of shell stitching
i
underneath
stitch using stretch blind
Trim
__
The Stitch
lace.
raw edge of fabric
Place lace
touch
Zigzag foot
or
at least
Shell
stitching
can
are called shetl
be used
to finish
hems, sleeve and neck openings.
and top-
Shell
hem stitch,
tucking
scalloped
close to stitching,
can be used
tucks
on
to
blouses
create
and
lingerie.
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW'"
position.
29
SECTION
•
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Box Stitching
Set the Machine
Stitch
Selector release
I
Stitch length
control 1
Stitch selector
Use this
stitch
to join
heavy
interlining.
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector
position.
3O
ZhTzagfoot
to
release
slide
back
use this stitch
the
to the "SEW"
to join
them.
weight
SECTION
•
Fagoting
Decorate
Stitch
Set
the
with Geometric
3.
Patterns
Stitch
Selector release
Selector release
Stitch length
control
green zone
!
I
Stitch length
control 0.5 .to 2
Stitch selector
Stitch selector
F,G,H or I
Here's How
Here's How
1.
Fold
under
each fabric
1.
edge 5/8"
Top thread tension
control 3 to 8
Zigzag foot
2.
Pin the two edges to paper
away
3.
Sew
the
backing
slowly,
needle
1/8"
or tear-
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Satin stitch foot
2.
sure
selector
to
slide
release
back
the
guiding
catches
3.
the fabric so
the
folded
NOTE:
Be
fabric
this stitch
to
appearance
sure
selector
to
slide
back
the
to join
create
The Stitches and Their Uses
two
an
and add design
pieces
open
of
work
interest.
These stitches
are purely
You
can sew
vary
the
special
stitch
4.
and length
Practice
the
stitch
on a scrap of
Mark the line for decoration on
one
row
width
Lower
the
needle
at the
starting
point.
release to the "SEW"
position.
position.
Use
width
the fabric, using a washable fabric
marker,
to the "SEW"
and Its Uses
the stitch
fabric.
apart.
edge on each side.
Be
Adjust
as you desire.
and press.
The Stitch
THE STITCHES
Set the Machine
Machine
Stitch
NOTE:
LEARN
5.
Lower
the presser foot.
6.
Gently
guide
maked
line.
the fabric
along the
decorative.
or
and
several or
length
for
effects.
Experiment
on a scrap of fabric
what
effects
special
to see
are possible.
31
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Stretch Stitches
•
StraightStretch
Rick-Rack Stretch
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
III
III
III
Stitch length
control brown
stretch stitch
position
Stitch selector
Stitch selector
L__J
Stitch length
control brown
stretch stitch
position
Straight foot
k__J
The Stitch
and Its Uses
Sew on stretch
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Top thread tension
control t to 4
or
Zigzag foot
!
The
stretch
actually
sewn,
This
and Its Uses
stitch
is the
the straight
ed for
Stretch
stitch
as
curved
will
can
well.
seams
be used
It
and
receive
(ie. children's
32
of
develop-
works
on
a great
clothes).
but
any
on
other
well
on
garments
deal of strain
is
and
(sometimes
action"
give
knits and stretch fabrics.
fabrics
that
variation
especially
stitch
stretch
forward
stretch
stitch,
fooz
when
!nstead
can also
of
the
in
back
so
break!ng_
"reverse-
that
it will
stretches
Th!s
st!tch
be used for topstitching
on all fabrics.
a
motion
a
fabric
not
is being
stitched
called
stitch),
does
as it
i n any area that
use a zigzag stitch.
This
can be used as a decorative
stitch
top stitch
\
The Stitch
Zigzag
fabrics
you might
as well.
SECTION
Overcast
Smocking
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Stretch Stitching
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
Selector release
Selector release
Stitch selector
stit
le.gth
control brown
Stitch length control
brown stretch stitch
position
Stitch
stretch stitch
position
selector
Here's How
[__l
L_J
Place
the
the LEFT
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
$
fabric
to
Zigzag foot
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
raw edge of the
of the needle as shown.
Stitch
so the needle pierces the fabric
just short of the outside edge.
Or, place your fabric
seam,
then
trim
to allow a 5/8"
seam
allowance
after.
With
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector
3osition.
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW"
the stitch length at "4",
straight
stitching
lines
3/8"
sew
apart
across the area to be smocked,
Knot
the
the threads
bobbin
gathers evenly.
the other
end.
stitch
between
and distribute
gathering
Pu II out the gathering
NOTE:
Loosen
tension
easier.
Pull
the
Secure the threads at
Sew the decorative
the
the
to
stitches.
stitches.
top
make
Be
sure
selector
along one edge.
threads
Raw or worn
NOTE:
thread
gathering
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW"
position.
The Stitch and Its Uses
This stitch can be used for sewing a
seam with an overcast finish.
The seam is formed and finished in
one operation.
It can be used when
you are making swimwear, ski pants
and other
garments that require
stretch.
edges of older
can be overcast to prevent
garments
further
raveling.
NOTE:
Use a blue stretch fabric
needle, which effectively
prevents skipped stitches.
33
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
, /
•
Serglng or Pine Leaf Stretch
Stitching
Elastic Stretch
Stitch
/Set
the Machine
Setthe
Stitch
Machine
Stitch
:
N
Selector release
"il
Selector release
Stitch length
control brown
stretch stitch
position
I
Stitch selector
Stitch length
control brown
s_retcn stitch
position
I
Stitch selector
'i
Here's How
Place the fabric under the presser
foot so that the stitches are made
ever theedge.
/i••
Top thread tension
control 1 t_4
Zigzag foot
Or, place your fabric to aglow a 5/8"
seam, then trim seam allowance
after.
NOTE:
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector
to
slide
back
the
release to the "'SEW'"
position.
The Stitch and Its Uses
Use this stitch
narrow seam that
press open fiat.
seams on knits
when you want a
you do not need to
It s ideal for 1/4"
or on medium to
heavyweight woven fabrics where you
want a narrow seam. It is also great
for making elastic swim wear.
34
When using stretch knit
fabric, use a blue stretch
fabric
needle
which
effectively
prevents
skipped stitches.
NOTE:
Be
sure
selector
position.
to
slide
release
back
the
to the "SEW"
Choose
this
stitch
to attach
elastic
to
garments.
1.
Mark
match
2,
the elastic
these
into quarters
to
the center
and
front,
center
back and side seams.
Place
the
middle
of
the
elastic
under
the
center
of
the
presser
foot and stitch
sure the
buted.
fabric
into place, making
is evenly
distri-
'
:
.
:
SECTION
•
Herring Bone Stretch
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Decorative Stretch Patterns
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch
Selector release
o.t^_
!
Stitch
selector
Stitch length
control brown
stretch st=tch
position
....
! ....
Stitch length
coFIt rol
l
Drown
stretch stitch
oosition
Stitch selector
F, G,H or
Here's How
Place
3/8"
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
Trim
the
from
close
prevent
The Stitch
fabric
top
side
up,
I____J
and sew
the edge.
to stitching.
The stitch
will
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
Decorative
for
touch
to
raveling.
can
women's
and Its Uses
Use as hemming stitch
tablecloth and draperies.
NOTE:
for blankets,
stretch
adding
patterns
creative
the
items
and
you
can be used
personalised
sew
for your
children's
clothes,
home and family.
You
The Stitch
and Its Uses
Be
sure
selector
to
slide
back
decorate
blouses,
curtains,
etc.
the
release to the "SEW'"
position,
35
SECTION
3.
LEARN
THE STITCHES
Buttonholes
Set the Machine
Stitch
U
Stitch length control
blue zone
Stitch selector
1. a. Carefully
length
b,
Top thread tension
control 1 to 5
S|[d]ng buttonhole
foot
the
buttonhole
Insert
foot
tO the ..................
_IIIU|ll_
UU
the
with
ing running
garment
the
I.I.UI
the top
b. Line
up
foot
with
the
(A) toward
_nark
the
c. Lower
NOTE:
the Stitch
Depending
own
upon
may
a{ter
density
in
the
within
(_
For
_he
more
toward
@
For
36
blue
length
density,
on
front
the
The
markings
on
c. Stop
sewing
slider
in centimeters.
you
stitch
_ttenhole
dial.
turn
the
dial
density,
turn
the
dial
"1 ".
Always
make
tonhole
on a scrap
you
plan
to
more
suitable
a practice
use to
stitch
of
Q
stitches
F ine
for
light
fabrics
H
_
stitches
for heavy
Coarse
fabrics
butfabric
find
the
length,
_
"
<>
_
of
at
_
yo_rreach
your
•
_
,
i
¸
.
the
bu[£on-
hole.
on your
the
until
marking
or your
"0".
less
toward
NOTE:
fabric
buttonholes,
buttonhole
range on the stitch
mark
(B)
Density
your
preference
mark
selector
I_. Sew forward
the presser foot.
are engraved
Adjusting
3. a. Set the stitch
[C} on _he
markings
the top
you
garment.
mark-
you.
slider
slider meet_ th_ start
I! IU|l_
under
buttonhole
toward
the
so that
f0ot.
c,
2. a. Move
on yourgarment,
....
_,,=Hy=
_
mark
at the left stitch.
SECTION
a. Set the stitch
selector
[1
at
5. a. Set the stitch
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches.
c.
Stop sewing
at the right
b. Sew
until
marking
stitch
selector
you
at
reach
131
the
back
of the buttonhole.
e. Stop sewing
at the right
6. a. Set the stitch
selector
at
_J
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches.
c. Stop
sewing
m
t_
4,
3.
LEARN
7. Remove
open with
THE STITCHES
the fabric
and cut the hole
the buttonhole
opener.
at tne left stitch.
stitch.
....
NOTE :
When sewing at the
E
sliding
buttonhole
and sewin reverse(
edge of fabric,
set
foot
as illustrated
___>r__,lr_--_r_
).
LI
_
U
_
4
37
SECTION
4.
PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS
CHART
What to Do When
PROBLEM
Skipping
PROBABLE
Stitches
Breaking
Upper
Thread
CAUSE
CORRECTION
Incorrect size needle.
Bent or blunt needle.
Choose correct size needle for thread
Insert new needle.
Incorrect
setting of needle.
Tight upper thread tension.
Reset needle.
Loosen upper
Starting to stitch too fast.
Improper
threading.
Tight upper thread tension.
Incorrect
size needle.
Start to stitch at a medium
Rethread machine.
Breaking Bobbin Thread
Fabric
not Moving
Machine Jamming Knocking
38
Noise
at hole of_eedle
tension.
speed.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Choose correct size needle for thread
Insert new needle.
Sharp eye in needle.
Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
Nicks o_bun_
thread
plate_
Replace
Rep!ane
and fabric.
shuttle, or polish off burrs completely.
needlep_
po!isl_of_burr_€on_y.
Improl_er bobbin case threading.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle,
Check bobbin case threading.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
Darning plate in place.
Stitch Length set at 0.
Thread knotted
under fabric.
Remove darning plate.
Adjust
Stitch Length Control.
Place both threads back under
to stitch.
Thread caught
Lint in bobbin
Disassemble and clean shuttle.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
in shuttle.
case or shuttle.
and fabric.
presser foot
before
beginning
SECTION
4.
PERFORMANCE
PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When (Continued)
PROBLEM
Irregular Stitches
Breaking Needle
Bunching of Thread
Puckering
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTION
Incorrect size needle.
Improper threading.
Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric.
Loose pr_
Unevenly wound bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.
Choose correct size needle for thread
Rethread machine.
Pulling fabric.
Incorrect size needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Reset needle.
Upper and lower threads not drawn back
under presser foot before starting seam.
When
Incorrect thread tension(s).
Using two different sizes or kinds of thread.
Reset thread tension(s).
Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.
Bent or blunt needle.
Fabric very sheer or very soft.
and fabric.
Tighten upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
RA_Rt pr_Ar fnnt
Rewind bobbin
needle plate,
or polish off burrs
completely.
Reset presser foot,
,
starting a seam be sure to draw
back of presser foot
formed.
1
Insert
about 4" and hold
both threads
until
under and
a few stitchs
are
new needle.
Use underlay
of tissue paper.
39
SECTION
5,
CARE FOR THE
Replacing the Light Bulb
MACHINE
Cleaning the Machine
To insure that
The feed
your
machine
dogs and shuttle
operates
at its best, you need to keep the essential
race areas can attract
dust and lint.
Your
machine
parts clean at all times.
can become
sluggish or knock
feed
Replace
loudly
is caught.
Check and clean those areas about
every
If you sew frequently,
often.
•
1.
clean more
three
months
under
normal
use.
Clean the Feed Dogs
Unplug the machine and open the
face cover.
CAUTION!
The
light
bulb
HOT.
could
Protect
fingers
when
you
be
your
handle
Follow
these directions:
it.
Unplug
2.
Push
bulb
the
bulb
up
counter-clockwise
and
turn
to
the
remove
it.
3;
Put the new
up and turning
40
the
presser foot
Using
a
screw
needle plate.
bulb
in by pushing it
it clockwise.
machine.
Remove
and needle,
driver,
2.
Use a lint
dogs,
remove
brush
to clean
the
3.
needle plate.
if a thread
SECTION
5.
CARE FOR THE MACHINE
• Clean the Shuttle Race
This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread.
about every three months.
Center pin of
the shuttle
Shuttle
Clean the shuttle race area
driver
Lever
Lever
Lever
Shuttle
Race
Lever
(Oil
here)
Shuttle
Cover
Bobb
Race
case
To Clean the Shuttle
1.
Raise
point
2.
the
needle
and remove
Push shuttle
shuttle
3.
Area:
Clean
race
bar
To Replace
to
its
the bobbin
levers
highest
aside.
shuttle
race
with
out.
a
Put a drop
the shuttle
2.
over-oil.
shuttle
is forming
Hold
shuttle
to form
lint
will
of oil on the center pin of
and shuttle race.
Do not
Assembly:
race
half
as illustrated
so that
moon
left
on the
shuttle
side of the
machine.
brush.
4.
Position
driver
Lift
race cover and take shuttle
the
!,
case:
Shuttle
3.
by center pin and position
a half moon
shuttle
on the right
side.
Pointed
cover
place
over
so as
hook
be on the bottom.
Place
shuttle
race
into
shuttle
assembly.
4.
Snap the levers back into the original
position.
41
SECTION
5.
CARE FOR THE
MACHINE
Oiling the Machine
Oil
the
machine
frequently,
sewing
machine
Kenmore
NOTE:
•
oil
sewing
Unplug
in all
areas shown
the machine
oil.
under
One or two
machine
on
the
drops
oil is available
the machine
before
this
top
of oil
page at least
cover
is sufficient.
at your
oiling.
about
once
every
a year;
three
Remove
otherwise
months.
excess oil,
the
machine
In case machine
otherwise
can become
is not
it may stain
sluggish
or will
used for an extended
knock
time,
loudly.
oil it before
If you
sewing.
use the machine
Use good quality
fabric.
nearest Sears retail store.
Remove
needle and put needle bar in full
down
position.
Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the Arm Cover Plate
Arm
cover
•
Oil the Underside
plate
Face cover plate
I
I
Shuttle
Open face cover
in illustration.
Use only
42
a drop
plate and/or
remove
of oil; do not over-oil.
arm
cover
plate
by
loosening
top
screw
to
oil
points
Open the shuttle
the left side of
remove
bottom
cover
cover by pulling
the cover.
Tilt
cover.
Oil points
down the embossed part on
the machine head back and
in illustration.
PARTS LIST
All parts listed
WHEN
1
2
5
6
herein may be ordered from
ORDERING
1. PART
'
t
i_
/
J
If the
i
parts
transmitted
9
13
14
10
11
12
15
16
,ii
17
19
20
_
_
you
1
2
3
4
5
NUMBER
NUMBER
need are not
ALWAYS
GIVE
THE
stocked
2. PART
DESCRIPTION
4.
OF ITEM
NAME
locally,
Parts Distribution
your
FOLLOWING
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
*6757
135
*6864
6797
6830
802424004
820832005
41669
*6889
735801008
are not furnished
above.
order
will
be electronically
Center for expedited
Part No.
47
6510
*6862
1939
8134O4013
6551
6552
6553
6554
801506008
648801108
650802014
735503018
6870
593401008
*These items
instructions
•
MODEL
to a Sears Repair
Ref. No.
8
PARTS,
INFORMATION:
3.
/
REPAIR
any Sears store or service center.
handling.
Description
Shuttle
Bobbin case
Bobbin box with 10 bobbins
Bobbin winder
No. 11 Stretch
rubber ring
fabric needles
(BLU)
No. 11 Single needles (ORG)
No. 14 Single needles (RED)
No. 16 Single needles (PUR)
No. 18 Single needles (GRN}
Needle clamp with screw
Sliding buttonhole
foot
Straight stitch foot
Standard zigzag foot
Satin stitch foot
Zipper foot
Zipper foot
Thumb screw
Needle threader
Light bulb
Buttonhole
Lint brush
opener
Large screw driver
Small screw driver
Oil and lint brush
Darning
with
plate
the machine,
but may be ordered
per
43
INDEX
A
Accessory storage box ...............
Adjusting stretch stitch balance .........
Applique ........................
Arm cover plate ...................
3, 7
16
24
42
B
Bar tacking
......................
Basic zigzag ......................
Blind hemming
....................
Bobbin
...................
Bobbin case ...............
Bobbin thread
..................
Bobbin winding
.................
Bobbin winding
tension disc ..........
Bobbin winding spindle .............
Box stitching
.....................
Buttonhole
....................
D......
k^l .......
I_j ttt2n _€_wing
24
23
28
4, 9_10, 43
9_10, 41, 43
12_13
9_10
3, 10
3, 10
30
36 _37
4 37 43
......
..........................
3
Carrying handle
....................
Changing needle ....................
Changing presser foot
................
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race
Clutch knob
..................
Cording
Cornering
4
7
7
....
40_41
4, 9, 10
........................
guide
...................
21
18
........................
Darningptate:
:.
::
;:;:
22
: ::
4; 19;22;25;43
E
Elastic stretch stitch
................
Extension
table
...................
34
3, 7
44
7
Hand wheel .....................
Herring bone stretch ................
3, 17
35
I
Invisible zipper ....................
21
B
3, 42
S
Satin stitch foot ..........
Satin stitch
......................
Lace work .......................
Large screw driver .................
Light and power switch .............
Light bulb ...................
Lint brush ...................
29
4, 43
4_5
5, 40, 43
4, 40, 43
N
4, 23_24,
Seam guides ......................
Serging .........................
Sewing light .......................
Shell stitching
....................
Shuttle
.......................
Shuttle cover .....................
Shuttle race ......................
Sliding buttonhole
Small screw driver
L
foot .......
.................
18
34
5
29
41,43
3, 9
41
4, 36_37,
Smocking
.......................
Spool pin
.......................
Stitch length control
...............
Stitch selector
...................
Straight
Straight
Straight
stitch
..................
stitch foot
...........
stretch
...................
31,43
23
43
4, 43
33
3, 6
3, 16
3, 15
1B_l 9
4, 19, 32, 43
32
T
Needle clamp screw ..............
Needle plate
....................
Needle, thread and fabric chart
..........
4, 7, 43
3, 40
8
O
Oiling ..........................
Overcasting stitch ..................
Overcast stretch stitching .............
42
26
33
P
........................
Performance
problems chart .........
Pine leaf stretch stitching
.............
Piugconnector_
_ _ _;;;
;;..;i
; i ._;
Portable case ......................
Power switch
......................
Presser foot
Presser foot
.......................
lever
..................
43
38_39
34
4_5
3
5
4
4, 6
R
F
Fabirc, needle, thread and stitch
length chart
Face cover plate ..................
....................
H
Parts list
D
Darning
Free arm sewing
40
4_5
25
C
Cabinet
Feed dogs .......................
Foot control
....................
Replacing bobbin case .............
Reverse stitch control ..............
Rick rack stretch ..................
9_10
3, 14
32
Thread cutter .....................
Thread guide ....................
Thread take-up lever ...............
Thread tensions .................
Three-step zigzag ..................
Topstitching
.....................
Top thread ....................
Top thread tension .........
......
Top thread tension control .............
Turn a square corner ................
3, 6
3, 11
3, 11
13_14
27
19
11 _14
13_14
3
18
Zigzagfoot
,;;,.;,_;,,,t_t9;23_35,43
Zigzag stitches
..................
Zipper application
...............
23_31
20_21
Zipper
foot
...............
4, 20_21,43
___411_ "_IFl_
'lllb_
'_i" _
'III'
_
'lib'_
'till'
_
"llb _
'llh_
11111.
_
illil.
_
"III I
_FII
*I
'_lll_
'_lh _
IIIi_
qll, _
"llh _
"IPII.
_
IIII _
'llbl_
'III I
'Ii_ -IIII,..Ip_l
I
'IIIi
I
"PlhI
dlb- I
qll 41-
'Jl_,_
'llh
+
÷
#
#
+
+
WARRANTY
FULL
25-YEAR
WARRANTY
ON SEWING
MACHINE
+
HEAD
#
---"
+
For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears wilt, free of ch_ge,
in the mechanical
components
of the sewing machine head.
repair
defects
in material
or workmanship
which
appear
#
__-=
#
__=
il
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY
ON ELECTRICAL
EQUIPMENT
OF SEWING MACHINE
For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material
#
appear in the electrical
speed control
FULL
_1
90-DAY
SERVICE
CENTER!DEPARTMENT
0
WARRANTY
For 90 days from
necessary for proper
WARRANTY
This warranty
equipment
ON ALL
the date
operation
IS AVAILABLE
IN THE
gives you specific
sewing
PARTS
machine,
AND
including
MECHANICAL
electronic
components,
UNITED
legal rights,
BY RETURNING
THE
or workmanship
motor,
wiring,
SEWING
MACHINE
-_
()
#
and p_o_ide
TO THE
NEAREST
mechanical
SEARS
se_ice
SERVICE
l_
and you may also have other
AND
and
P
STATES.
ROEBUCK
which
switch
ADJUSTMENTS
of purchase, Sears wil!. free of charge, replac_ any parts
of the sewing machine,
except for normal maintenance.
SEARS,
_-="
of the
CO.,
D/817
rights which
WA, Hoffman
vary from
state to state.
Estates, IL 60179
SEWING
Now
that
MACHINE
you
or service,
have purchased
simply
contact
your
your
Kenmore
nearest
Sewing
Machine,
Sears Service Center.
should
a need ever exist
Be sure to provide
for repair
all pertinent
parts
facts when
you call or visit.
The model
your
Sewing
WHEN
number
of your
Machine.
ORDERING
_PARTNUMBER
you
Sewing
Machine
will
be shown
on your
nomenclature
plate
on the back
REPAIR
=PANi
If the
parts
Repair
Parts Distribution
need
PARTS,
ALWAYS
DESCRiPTiON
are not
Center
stocked
G VE THE
*MODEL
locally,
your
FOLLOWING
NUMBER
order
will
INFORMATION:
=NAMEOF
iTEM
be electronically
transmitted
to
a Sears
for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.
S-385
of
See page 4 for location.
Printed
in Taiwan
Part No.735806302
1.You' fnd the
spool pn on the top
cover.
Pul! ul
up the
spool pin,
PUl!
the spool
pin,
foot
control
into
machine
2. Plug
foot
control
into
machine
Then connect cord into
any 110 _ 120 volt A,C. wall outlet,
any110 _120 volt A, :. wall outlet,
3 Your
Your Kenmore sewing
sewillg machine
mach ne has
been
been thoroughty
thoroughty oiled
oile( at
at the
the factory.
factory.
Be sure to wipe off the needle plate
"_
rocep=c
Then
e co,nect
cordnto
_'_
_ "_1
_
xJ
_/t///f_
//
If
_ II
21
_'_/
H
• b_e sew_n_
i
STRAIGI_T
surplus oil is absorbed.
I
cl _
RED
ZONE
2 TO
6
A or C
_r--
STITCH SELECTOR
ZIGZAG
•
THREE-STEP Z GZAG
\
A
BLIND (STRETCH}
SHELL
BOX
" _.-
^
^
/ V V \
_-_
1.
2.
Slide"RELEASE'*
Selact _attem
"A"
Slide ' RELEASE"
right
3.
1
left
/
right'
r
Slide "RELEASE:"
S{ide "RELEASE"
2.
Select pstlern"C
3 SIde"RELEASE"left
1. Sli_e _RE LEASE"
right
2
Sabot
em *'O _'
,
t_e_
Setting mark (_,_.......,.
left
I. SIIde*'RELEASE'_
2..le=
I_attern "S"-
1. _kI_"FIEL_=ASE
FAGOTING STITCH
There are certain types Of stitches that are used
right
Selector Release
m__
:
_T03
l
. _
_
I
-
1 /UZ
1TO4
I
A
....
I
/
--
3_U_
I
A
more often than others in your garment construction. Because of their frequent use, you will
soon realize the ccnvenience offered to you by
this control, The desired stitch will be obtained
by turningthe
k_
Stitch Selector.
" right
2.
Sele_
"E _'
I
2
3.
1,
2.
3.
Slide "RELI_ASE"
Select pattern "C '
SI_e'RELEASE
Slide "RELEASE"
Select
ttern "D_"
Stide"_a_L_ASE"
3. Stide "_aE LEASE" !_ft
1)
right
left
right
"
left
t. Slide "RELEASE'
rgh_
2 Setect
ern "_E'_
3. Slide =_tEl_EASE'[eft
BROWN
pOS T ON
BROWN
POS TION
• BROWN
: PosITION
ial.
FOS!_i0N
,
.....
CARE
FREE
STITCHING
de/gends
and the LITTLE
on the BIG
_
SHUTTLE
NEEDLES
THREADING
r
V
I
Clean in and around the shuttle and feed
dogs to remove accumulated dust and lint
which may cause NOISE OR JAMMING.
F
OILING
EEDING
TENSION
_
FEEDING
OILING
(MATERIAL
DOESN'T
FEED PROPERLY)
The more you use your machine, the
less often it needs oil. If you have not
used your machine for a few months,
and it seems sluggish, oil your machine.
Periodically
oil at points indicated
in
your
instruction
book.
USE ONLY
KENMORE SEWING MACHINE OIL.
Check
stitch
length.
i+
P
o°+°[
,,I
,:(,=
Flat
side
away
from
you
)
TENSION
_)
TOP
HREADING
THREADbreaks,
CAN unthread
TANGLE andAND
without thebeing
seen. both
If your
thread
then SNAP
RETHREAD
machine,
top
and bottom threads,
THREADING
Make sure there is no slack or
snags in the thread.
Use the
type of thread and size needle
recommended in your instruction
book.
Thread should
come
off the back of the
spoo| as shown+
Bo'rroM
THREADING
1. Insert bobbin with thread wound as shown and
guide bobbin onto center pin of bobbin case.
2, Pull thread through slot.
3. Pull thread uader tension spring.
4. Holding latch open, position case into shuttle,
and release latch.
COMPLETING
THREADING
Hold top thread loosely in left hand and rotate
handwheel
toward you one complete
turn.
Bring
bottom
thread up and next, pull top and bottom
threads under and to the back of presser foot.
_
-
Compare your straight stitching with the illustrations. If it looks like either
of the top two, correct the thread tension dial as shown.
BE SURE TO NOTE YOUR PRESENT SETTING
BEFORE YOU START
ADJUSTING.
_
_I_II_
t
Upper
thread
Correct
too
_ _
Decrease
tension
tight
stitching
IMPORTANT
For your safety an important new feature has been incorporated in this machine.
The light/power switch provides electric current for the motor as well as the light,
In order to operate the machine this switch must be on.
If you are interrupted while sewing and must leave the machine unattended, just
turn off the light/power switch and the machine can not be started accidentally by
pressing on the foot control.
This feature also applies when the machine is in
storage.
The foot control is used to vary the machine speed from zero to high.
h
OPTIONAL
FEET AND ATTACHMENT
(SEWING
MACHINE
SOURCE
(A)
(B)
SEWING MACHINE
MODEL NO
SEWING MACHIN E
PART NO__
PART DESCRIPTION
200012104
Hemmer Foot
214872000
Walking Foot
941450000
(Even Foot)
Pin-Tuck Foot
10111,
11607,
12331,
12492,
12641,
12781,
17781,
11541,
11682,
12332,
12493,
12712,
12841,
17881,
11551,
12320,
12490,
12541,
12714,
16951,
15841,
16841,
17641,1
17922,
17928,
11581,
12321,
12491,
1258'1,
12741,
17622,
"
385)
(C)
941460000
Gathering Foot
Ruffler
941620000
Piping Foot
Gathering Foot
200002008
17824,
200003009
200013105
Pin-Tucking Foot
Hemmer Foot
200027102
Binder Foot
20O0301O8
1/4" Seam Foot
214872000
Walking Foot
Embroidery Foot
Ruffler
200005001
654805008
941620000
I
18836,
18841,
19502,
19601.
19150,1 19501,
I
Piping Foot
Gathering Foot
200002008
200003009
200013105
Pin-Tucking Foot
Hemmer Foot
200027102
Binder Foot
200005001
15641.
16641,
200028103
Roller Foot
200029104
200030108
Teflon Foot
1/4" Seam Foot
200031109
Applique Foot
200032100
Cording Foot
214872000
Walking Foot
654805008
941620000
Embroidery Foot
Ruffler
ML-330555
Elastic
200201009
Piping Foot
200209100
Blind Hem Foot
200210104
Taping
Foot
Foot With Tape
Reel
200212106
Cording
340522N
Pearl Sewing
All parts listed above may be ordered by calling Sears Teleparts
When ordering
repair pads, always qive the following
1.
Part Number
2.
3.
4.
Part Description
(SEE COLUMN
C)
Model Numberof SeWing Machine: Example
Name of Item (SEWING MACHINE)
(SEECOLUMN
information.
Foot
Foot
oo
nter at 1 (800)366-7278.
B)
f the parts you need are not stocked locally
D str bution Center for expedited handling.
(385.
xxxxx)
your order witl be el_ectronically transmitted
to the Sears Parts
735 811-OO1
'ORTANT
To reduce the elcctri_
shock:
I
i
*The plug is intended
If the plug does not
If it still does
t_ ! it in a polarized
outlet only one way.
fi_ f _lly in the outlet, reverse the plug.
electrician
to install
not fit, 4ol tact a qualified
the
outlet tl_e pl t_g tny
Do proper
not modify
/
way.
Replace foot controlle_
/ith the same type.
or YC-30
Foot Controller:
MODE L YC-482P
l