Download instruction MAnuAl

The
Assisted Braking Belay Device for Single Ropes
Instruction Manual
All users should read this
booklet and follow the
instructions.
The
Assisted Braking Belay Device for Single Ropes
Right-handed position
Left-handed position
description
• The “9” is a belay device for the leader or the second, this device is made for indoor and outdoor climbing on well
equipped routes with anchors conforming to UIAA standards.
• In this manual the “9” will be referred to as either the “9” or the “device”.
• The “9” assists braking by trapping the braking side of the rope in a V-Shaped Slot (3); the braking side of the rope must
be held at all times.
•The “9” must be used with a UIAA certified, flexible, dynamic, single rope which is between 9.1mm and 11.0mm in
diameter.
•It is the responsibility of the user to ensure that they are competent and safe in the use of this device. These instructions are
not a substitute for proper training.
•Before use, always check the integrity of the device.
•The “9” is adaptable for use by left-handed people; simply turn the device!
•This device is suitable for low weight and low fall factors.
•The “9” can be used for canyoning in dry canyons but is Prohibited for use in wet canyons.
1
Carabiner Hole
•Use a pear-shaped carabiner
through this hole to attach the device
to the belay loop of your harness
•Clip the rope into the pear-shaped
carabiner
2
Lower Horn
•The rope must pass behind this to
allow a smooth braking action
•Allows the rope to be held in place
be being squeezed by the non-braking hand against the Lower Horn
when shifting between the different
functions of the device
5
Top Horn
•For lowering a climber without the
assisted braking function
4
Circular Hole
•The climber’s side of the rope passes
through here
3
V-Shaped Slot
•For the assisted braking action; the
braking side of the rope must pass
through here
The
Installing the device
Climber
5
Top Horn
•For lowering a climber without
the assisted braking function
1
Carabiner Hole
•Use a pear-shaped carabiner through this
hole to attach the device to the belay loop of
your harness
•Clip the rope into the pear-shaped carabiner
4
Circular Hole
•The climber’s side of the rope
passes through here
2
Lower Horn
•The rope should pass behind this to
allow a smooth braking action
•Allows the rope to be held in place
be being squeezed by the non-braking hand against the Lower Horn
when shifting between the different
functions of the device
Belay loop of harness
3
V-Shaped Slot
•For the assisted braking
action; the braking side of the
rope must pass through here
Belayer
2
T HE
User guide :
1
General Information :
• This instruction manual must be read and understood before the device can be used effectively.
•Before using this device, the user should consider all the necessary handling techniques in case difficulties
occur.
•Climbing is a potentially dangerous activity with the risk of injury or death. Participants in this activity should
be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions. It is the responsibility of the user to
ensure that they are competent in the use of this device.
•The “9” assists braking by trapping the braking side of the rope in a V-Shaped Slot (3); the braking side of
the rope must be held at all times.
•The “9” must be used with a UIAA certified, flexible, dynamic, single rope which is between 9.1mm and
11.0mm in diameter.
•All activities marked as “Prohibited” must not be done as they may result in the malfunction of the device,
injury or death.
• Every other use of the device, not mentioned in this instruction manual, is Prohibited.
•The images engraved on the device only show the Traditional Position for installing the rope (for right-handed
use).
2
Installing the “9” on the Harness :
• Install the device using a locking pear-shaped HMS carabiner
•D-shaped carabiners are Prohibited as the rope may get trapped causing the
device to malfunction.
•A belay carabiner which prevents cross-loading can be used.
Pear-shaped locking HMS
carabiner
D-shaped carabiner:
Prohibited
3
T HE
2
Installing the “9” on the Harness
2.1
Harness with a vertical belay loop
The gate of the
carabiner should
be on the same
side as your
brake hand
2
1
Clip the carabiner onto the harness
orientated horizontally
braking side of the rope
Clip the “9” onto the carabiner with the Top
Horn (5) on the lower side of the device.
braking side of the rope
stop
3
4
Install the rope.
2.2
braking side of the rope
Check
tug the climber’s side of the rope upwards with your nonbraking hand whilst leaving your braking hand below the
device, relaxed, without gripping the rope to check the
function of the system.
Harness with horizontal belay
loop
The gate of the
carabiner should be
facing upwards
2
1
Clip the carabiner onto the
harness orientated vertically
braking side of the rope
Clip the “9” with the Top Horn (5) on the right
for right-handed people or on the left for lefthanded people.
braking side of the rope
stop
braking side of the rope
3
Install the rope.
4
Check
tug the climber’s side of the rope upwards with your nonbraking hand whilst leaving your braking hand below the
device, relaxed, without gripping the rope to check the
function of the system.
Attention : Ropes must be flexible; stiff ropes may cause the device to malfunction
4
T HE
2
Installing the “9” on the harness / continued
• Installing and removing the rope from the “9” can be done
without removing the device from the carabiner which can remain
attached to the harness.
directional
anchor
•It is Prohibited to attach the “9” directly to the belay. The “9”
must be attached to the belay loop of the belayer’s harness and
the rope must pass through a directional anchor above the belayer
when bringing up a second or when the leader leaves the belay on
a multi-pitch climb.
unlocking
• When installed on a harness with a vertical belay loop and the
901D
“9” is in a vertical position, you must ensure that
the Top Horn (5)
unlocking
is on the lower side of the device to ensure better braking function
in case the rope is accidentally released from the braking hand.
3
unlocking
INSATALLING THE ROPE: The Traditional Position
902D
descent
descent
908D
901D
descent
902D
909D
903D
descent
• Place the rope on the same side of your body as your braking
hand (i.e. on the right-hand side for right-handed people).
901D
902D
908D
903D
904D
909D
910D
915D
descent
916D
• Install the rope by passing a loop of rope into the “9” then
clipping the loop into the pear-shaped carabiner.
• Place the loop of rope behind the Lower Horn (2), this will
908D
provide good braking friction.
909D
915D
910D
911D
916D
923D
917D
• The climber’s side of the rope must pass through the Circular
Hole (4) and the braking side of the rope must pass through the
V-Shaped Slot (3) to be in position.
922D
923D
915D
916D
917D
924D
918D
N.B. for stiffer ropes we recommend the Rapid Position, with all the advice and reservations of its use
(see chapter 10 Rapid Position)
922D
923D
925D
924D
5
T HE
3
INSTALLING THE ROPE / continued
descent
descent
g
descent
902D
902D
903D
903D
904D
904D
• It is Prohibited to thread the rope around the “9”
like a traditional “8” belay device.
The rope must be clipped into the pearshaped carabiner.
t
901D
902D
905D
905D
903D
906D
906D
907D
907D
• It is Prohibited to pass the braking side of the rope
through the Circular Hole (4) of the device; always
ensure the braking side of the rope passes through
the V-Shaped Slot (3).
904D
905D
906D
Always
descentcheck that the device has
been correctly installed
909D
909D
910D
910D
911D
911D
• Tug the climber’s side of the rope upwards with
912D
912D
913D
913D
914D
914D
your non-braking hand whilst leaving your braking
hand below the device, relaxed, without gripping
the rope to check the function of the system.
908D
909D
4
916D
916D
910D
911D
912D
917D
4 GETTING
STARTED 918D
:918D
techniques to learn919D919D
917D
913D
920D
920D
921D
921D
2
915D
916D
917D
918D
919D
920D
Unlock
• The Squeeze Technique:
To use
the different applications of the “9” described
924D
in this 924D
user manual it is necessary to know the Squeeze
Technique which allows you to change the rope position
whilst holding the rope in place by squeezing it against
the Lower Horn923D(2) of the device . 924D
923D
923D
925D
925D
922D
926D
926D
1
The Squeeze Technique
Squeezing the rope against the Lower Horn
(2) of the device929D
to hold it in place.
930D
928D
928D
• The Guide Hand Technique :
925D
926D
929D
The hand on the climber’s side of the rope
pulls the rope 928D
through the device
In order to be able to give out lots of rope you must
prevent the “9” from locking whilst pulling the rope
through the device. This can be done by keeping your
braking hand above the device to act as a guide for the
braking side of the rope (keeping it out the V-Shaped Slot
(3)) whilst pulling the climber’s side of the rope out of the
device with your non-braking hand.
930D
929D
The hand acting as the guide does not move
2
1
The Guide Hand Technique
The hand on the braking side of the rope is
held above the device.
6
T HE
5
BELAYING
: always hold914Dthe braking side of the rope.
913D
•The “9” must be used with a UIAA certified, flexible, dynamic, single rope which is between 9.1mm and
11.0mm in diameter.
• The assisted braking, locking and unlocking functions of the device should always be checked before use.
It is recommended to place the loop of rope behind the Lower Horn (2) as this will provide good braking
friction.
The braking side of the rope must be held at all times.
D
920D
921D
descent
Lock
Belay
1
901D
902D
2
903D
descent
904D
905D
1
929D
N.B. Always hold the braking side of the rope.
930D
1
908D
909D
907D
2
Taking in rope / the five step method
D
906D
910D
911D
2
912D
913D
914D
• The assisted braking, locking and
unlocking functions of the device
should always be checked before use.
The braking side of the rope
must be held at all times.
915D
916D
917D
918D
3
1
919D
920D
921D
929D
930D
4
11
unlocking
3
2
923D
22
924D
922D
3
2
descent
925D
3
926D
901D
902D
4
4
928D
903D
Lock
904D
905D
descent
4
3
3
4
908D
5
5
4
4
909D
5
910D
5 1
911D
5
912D
7
915D
916D
917D
918D
919D
T HE
Taking in rope / simplified method
N.B. Always hold the braking side of the rope
unlocking
2
Slide the hand on
the
climber’s side
unlocking
back up the rope
Pull the braking side of
the rope out of the “9”,
push the climber’s side
of the rope into the “9”
901D
Slide the hand on
the braking side of
the rope back up
towards the “9”
Go back to the start position
902D
903D
904D
908D
909D
descent
unlocking
Lock :
descent
1
lower the braking hand to lock
the rope in the V-Shaped Slot
(3)
901D
6
902D
descent
descent
•For a good locking action you should pull the rope to the
bottom of the V-Shaped Slot (3).
908D
909D
910D
911D
915D
901D
902D
• The reserve of rope on the braking side of the rope must
be kept below the belay device.
916D
903D
904D
descent
923D
915D
•The rope must pass through a directional anchor when
908D
916D
909D
bringing up a second or when the leader leaves the belay
on a multi-pitch climb.
917D
918D
910D
911D
922D
923D
924D
unlocking
descent
•The belayer must be standing near to the cliff / climbing
wall.
unlocking
`
WARNING:
915D
922D
901D
descent
The device should be able to operate
freely at all times, this may not be the
case if it is touching the cliff / climbing
wall. The function of the device must not
be hindered by obstaclesdescent
(e.g. branches
caught in the V-Shaped Slot, etc…)
916D
902D
903D
923D
902D
903D
908D
909D
910D
904D
908D
909D
905D
910D
911D
915D
916D
904D
905D
924D
911D
906D
Too far
925D
922D
915D
918D
926D
descent
901D
The reserve of rope on the
braking side of the rope
must be kept below the
belay device.
917D 925D
912D
916D
907D
912D
926D
913D
917D
918D
914D
919D
WARNING: The belayer must be attached
to the belay point to avoid the risk of
falling if belaying from a ledge.
923D
917D
918D
924D
919D
920D
921D
8
922D
923D
924D
925D
926D
928D
909D
910D
911D
912D
913D
T HE
7
Unlock :
• Use your non-braking hand to perform the squeeze technique (see chapter 4 GETTING STARTED:
techniques to learn) then pull the braking side of the rope up and out of the V-Shaped Slot (3) using your
braking hand.
917D
• Unlocking
can also be achieved918D
by initiating a “climbing the rope” 919D
movement (see chapter
916D
CLIMBING THE ROPE)
11
Pull upwards
923D
920D
Pull upwards
924D
ou
NB : It may sometimes be necessary to
use two hands to unlock the rope before
the Squeeze Technique can be used (for
example after a925D
significant fall).
8
Squeeze
926D
Unlock using a “climbing
the rope” movement
928D
929D
Giving out rope: always hold the braking side of the rope
• To give out rope the hand on the braking strand of the rope must stay above the device in order
to prevent the assisted braking action from locking the rope (see the Guide Hand Technique, chapter
4 GETTING STARTED: techniques to learn)
Unlock the rope if necessary then use the hand on the braking side of the rope as a guide to keep
the rope out of the V-Shaped Slot (3). Give out rope by pulling the climber’s side of the rope out of
the device using your non-braking hand.
The hand keeping the braking side of the rope can either move with the rope or stay in a fixed
position and allow the rope to slide through the fingers (see the Guide Hand Technique).
Hands should return to their start positions between two sequences of giving out rope.
The hand on the climber’s side of the
rope pulls the rope through the device
The hand acting as the guide does not move
Giving out rope
9
908D
909D
910D
911D
912D
T HE
911D
912D
9

913D
Stopper system
The abseil is done on a single rope
Preparing a single
rope abseil
• The unlocking action leads naturally into lowering the climber / abseiling.Control the rate of decent using your hands on the braking side of the
rope.This position retains the assisted braking function should the rope be
dropped.
916D
917D
915D
918D
919D
904D
918D
921D
920D
Pull upwards
to unlock
919D
Hand fixed as a guide
Hand fixed as a guide
905D
906D
923D
Hand regulating the
rate of decent
907D
924D
ou
Unlock using a “climbing
the rope” movement
Squeeze
911D
912D
926D
922D
914D
Lowering a climber on a top rope / Abseiling
With assisted braking function
928D
913D
Unlock
929D
914D
Abseil method 1930D
925D
Lowering a climber on a top rope
/ Abseiling
unlocking
9.1
Without assisted braking function
descent
Abseil method 2
926D
928D
•Using the Top Horn (5).
918D
919D Horn (5) allows the climber to be lowered
920D
Using the Top
whilst keeping
the hand on the braking side of the rope below the belay device.
921D
unlocking
WARNING: the assisted braking function does not work in this
position. Changing into this position must either be done in a dynamic
way or by releasing the rope from the V-Shaped Slot (3) whilst holding
the rope in place around
the Lower Horn (2) of the
device using the
901D
902D
Squeeze Technique (see chapter 4 GETTING STARTED: techniques to
learn).
descent
903D
descent
The assisted braking function
904D position.
does not work in this
Always keep a hand on the
braking side of the rope.
Pull upwards
901D
926D
929D
928D
908D
902D
930D
909D
903D
descent
910D
911D
wrap the rope
908D
909D
Lower the climber
behind the Top
/ abseil
Horn (5), release
the squeeze
• At all times, be careful to keep a good grip on the braking side of the
N.B. Always keep
a hand
rope.
915D
916D
917D
918D
Squeeze
• Whilst lowering, do not let the rope “jump” off the Top Horn (5).
• Always keep the palm of your belay hand facing into the body.
910D
on the braking side of the
rope.
10
915D
916D
917D
T HE
10 Rapid Position
It is Prohibited to use the Rapid Position if the belayer risks being lifted off the ground
(e.g. at the start of an overhanging climb).
• To change from the Traditional Position to the Rapid Position, simply
move the loop of rope out from behind the Lower Horn (2).
• When using the “9” in the Rapid Position there is less friction between
the device and the rope making it easier to give out rope, however this
reduction in friction can mean less control of the rope when unlocking.
• It is necessary to use the Squeeze Technique when unlocking the rope
Belay
before using the Top Horn (5) to lower a climber on a top rope (see
chapter 4 GETTING STARTED: techniques to learn).
• When belaying on slabby cliffs it is possible for an experienced
belayer to use the Rapid Position.
• The Rapid Position is not advised when belaying at the beginning of
a pitch or on steep or overhanging cliffs as unlocking the rope can be
difficult or dangerous.
•Using two hands when unlocking the rope can improve your grip on
the rope.
Pull upwards
Unlock with two
hands
Squeeze
NB : Unlocking can also
be achieved by initiating a
“climbing the rope” movement (see chapter 11
(CLIMBING THE ROPE),
the climber can then be
lowered.
wrap the rope
behind the top horn,
release the squeeze
Unlock using a
“climbing the rope”
movement
Lower the climber
Lower the climber
OK
Before changing to the Rapid Position at least 5 quickdraws need
to have been clipped (3 on a slabby cliff).
NB: The Rapid Position can
be an advantage when
using a stiff rope
Whether using the Rapid or
Traditional Position, always
check the function of the
system.
11
T HE
11 Climbing the Rope
•It is also possible to climb a rope using the “9”
•It is necessary to have a second stopping
device above the “9” with a step, and to lock the brake side of the
920D
921D
919D
rope into the V-Shaped Slot (3) between sequences.
descent
902D
903D
904D
905D
906D
907D
descent
929D
928D
930D
12 Checking, maintenance, storage and replacement :
909D
• This device must be checked before and after each use.
• Any kind of deformation, visible abrasion, cracks or corrosion requires an immediate and permanent repla910D
911D
912D
913D
914D
920D
921D
cement. The same applies in the case of an exceptional impact, or after a severe fall.
• Do no put the device into contact with chemical substances.
• At best, the device should not be used for longer than 10 years.
• The “9” is recyclable.
916D
917D
918D
919D
•All techniques that are crossed out or have a warning sign are Prohibited.
923D
924D
Please refer to our website regularly for the most up-to-date version of
these instructions.
925D
926D
928D
929D
930D
12