Download Sears 385. 1884180 Sewing Machine User Manual
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OWNER'S MANUAL S _A/RS SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385. 1884180 SEARS CANADA |NC, Dear Customer: You have just invested m a very please pause for a moment and care for your Specific fine zigzag sewing and carefully read this machme. booklet Before which using your contains new Kenmore instructtons on how machine, to operate machine. instructions are given obtain the best sewing Advice on the results operation on threading, and avoid and care Please remember, if you the model and seria_ number number of your have questions tension adjustments, unnecessary machine about when cleamng, service expense is always your available machine oiling, etc_ Th_s wilt help you for conditions at your or need parts beyond nearest Kenmore Sewing Machine Record _n space number of are located provided this appliance. on the betow the The model nomenclature mode_ number number and and serial plate, as identified Serial No, serial number on Page 3 of th_s booklet, Model No..385. Retain these numbers THIS MODEL for future IS A CENTER reference, NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING Sears Retail and service, you inquire. MACHINE. our control. always Store, mentton TABLE SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet _sAvailable ............. Locate and Identify the Parts ................. Identify the Accessories ....................... SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR 3. LEARN Practical THE Stitch • Quilting ............................ Darning .............................. Stralght Stretch ........................ Zigzag Stitches ........................... o Basic Zigzag ............................. • Satin Stitch ............................ - Applique ............................... • Bar Tacking ........................... • Monogramming ........................ o Embrmdery ............................. • Sew a Button ............................ • Overcasting Stitch ........................ o Rick-Rack Stretch ...... _ ............. • Three-Step Zigzag ........................ • Overcast Stretch Stitching .................. ® Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ Blind Hemming ........................ Lace Work ................................ Buttonhole Making ...................... • Learning to Sew Buttonholes ................. • Built-in System .................... o Using Buttonhole Attachment ............... Sew in a Zipper ........................... Shell Stitching ............................ Two-Point Shell Stitching ...................... Smocking ............................. Stretch Patching ............................ Fagoting Stitch ............................. Herring Bone Stretch ........................ Elastic Stretch Stitch ......................... Box Stitching .............................. Two-point Box Stitch ........................ Overedg_ng Stitch .......................... Decorative Stretch Patterns .................... Decorate w_th Geometric Patterns ................ 2 2_3 4 SEWING Set Up the Machine ....................... o Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... u Foot Control Use ..................... • Set the Speed Range Switch ................... • Set the Pressure Dial ....................... • Setting Spool Pins .......................... o Adjust the Presser Foot Lever .................. • Thread Cutter ............................ • Accessory Storage Box ....................... o Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table. Know What the Presser Feet Will Do ............ e Check Your Presser Foot .................... e Change the Presser Foot .................. o Presser FootTypes ...................... Choose Your Needle and Thread ............... • Check Your Needle ........................ o Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ..... a To Change Your Needle ..................... Prepare the Bobbin ...................... e To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine ......... o Wind the Bobbin ........................ • Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbm Holder ......... Prepare Your Top Thread ................... o Thread Your Needle .................. o Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ................. e Adjust the Top Thread Tension .............. Stitch Selector ............................ Stitch Length ControI ..................... Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................ Stitch Width Contro_ ...................... • Three Needle Position .................. Reverse Stitch Control ........................ Starting To Sew ............................ SECTION OF CONTENTS 5_9 5 5 6 6 7 7 7 8 o 8_9 t0_14 t0 t0 t!_14 14"15 t4 15 15 16_t7 t6 16 17 18_21 18 19 20_2t 21 22 22 23_24 23_24 25 25 SECTION 4. Straight Stitches • Straight Stitch • Use the Seam • Turn a Square Use the Daring • Topstitching ...................... ........................ ......................... Guides ..................... Corner ..................... Plate .................... ........................... SECTION 5. CAREFORYOUR PARTS LIST INDEX ................................... ........................................ 61_62 MACHINE Replace the Light Bulb ...................... C_ean the Bobbin Holder .................... Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs Oiling the Machine ........................ 26_30 31_33 31 31 3t 32 32 PROBLEMS CHART What to Do When ......................... STITCHES Chart PERFORMANCE 33 34 34 35_42 35 36 37 37 38 38 39 40 40 41 42 42 43 44 45_5t 45 46_47 48_51 52_53 54 54 55 55 56 56 57 57 58 58 59 60 ............. 63 63 64 64 65_66 67_68 SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE Locate and Identify the Parts A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available A full line nearest of Sears sewing retail cabinets store or is available through our at your general catalog. Another your option Kenmore , , buy a Carrying goes anywhere, Case : = then can be stored Thread Spool Pins any- where. Bobbin Upper Take-up Thread Face Cover Needle Spindle Stitch Width Control Spee_ Range Lever Top Thread Control Thread Winding Guide Tension Plate Cutter Plate Reverse Stitch Extension {Accessory Table storage box} Switch Control Carrying Arm Cover Hand Handle Presser Thumb Foot Screw Presser Foot Wheel Push-Pull Clutch Snap-on Stitch Strelch Thread Guide Needle Clamp Plate Presser Foot Lever SeSector Stitch Light and Power Swttch P_ug Connector Adjuster Free Arm Nomenclature Plate Foot Control Button Bobbin Buttonhole opener \ Darmng plate Needle Large st:rew dr_ver Quilter Smell Lint Blind stitch foot / Spool Satin foot hem foot -%, Buttonhole Overedge brush driver Straight stitch foot Sliding buttonhoSe Zipper screw set pin telt stitch % foot Buttonhole foot loot gutde p,a,o / _'_. _ Base plat Buttonh o_e templates ........... J Plug in the Machine and Switch Power Foot on the Power supply plug / Control Use Power supply J Sewing ligh_ _ Power sw_Ich and power switch .J 4. Plug connector Before inserting machine, be the sure plug the power SAFETY into Your your Volt your outlet light, The switch is to be sure it is a 110to 120 witl llght/power switch interrupted or light/power switch stop toot which FEATURE: machine children. Check and sewing to turn To OFF t. light on the power Machine plug NOTE: Push the control operate _s turned sewing, to unless the To If you are sure slightly. on, turn prevent off mllury speed, decrease speed, 3. Insert the machine plug outlet, as shown, tt will Insert the power supply into only the three-prong fit one way. plug into the outlet. at gently press down with release your foot control is sensitive pres- the to NOTE: The foot will increase regulate your or decrease speed Practice 2. speed foot. sewing AC outlet, the you sew. increase the ball of your not regulates on immediately. a scrap your and your sewing taste and needs. of fabric to speed to Set the Pressure Dial j Your machine work and will sew no even when has two a high ranges one for faster, faster the foot than control of speed--a low general On the low setting the machine approximately is fully work. two4hird range for slower, the speed of the intricate high one, depressed. Setting mark NOTE: It is advisable not machine is running. to change the speed range switch while The pressure Set the dial control aligning 3 ..... most 2 ..... applique 1 ..... basting, dial is located the setting mark on the dial with the groove as follows. sewing and Cut-Out sewing Also for vetours NOTE: inside the face cover plate, chiffon, work lace, organdy and knits (with more and other lightweight fabrics. stretch), The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure, so the machine is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use it. = Setting Spool Pins = Adjust the Presser Foot = Thread Cutter Lever r _poo_ The p,N fe,t_ spool spools pros of thread are used in order for holding to feed thread You the to the machine. To use, pult spool storage, felt up the spool on the pros. pins, Push Place _he down for The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your You can raise it about to help foot_ you for 1/4" higher easy removal place heavy than the normal of the presser foot fabrics under or the presser need a pair of scissors to cut the after you finish handy thread The threads starting presser foot. up position don't thread sewing. Just use the cutter, are cut the the next seam, proper length for o Accessory Storage Box = Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table Your To remove: To Remove the Extension (for free-arm J The lid of open toward the accessory storage box you. Sewing accessories inthe box. are conveniently Grip the table as sh own. 2. Pull gently located machine makes with toward The ex_nsion your index finger to reinforce pockets, and thumb, you. table will snap out, and To Attach: • :_, _;_,i!:i_ii_:, _,_ i_:_ii_!ii_ii_;i !_i :i_ =_ii!_:';_ the Extension Table sewing) 1. Fit the tabs into 2. With your thumb the slot, as shown. and index finger, gently waistlines on made garments to around the needle. Extension table (for flat-bed easy for: Table Bar tacking To Attach can do free arm sewing. sewing sewing) 1. lifts sewing This feature snap in. plackets ready-made or home- avoid bunching fabric * Stitchingsleeves, waistbands, pantlegs, oranycirculargarment area. * Darning socksor mending knees, elbows, orareas ofwearinchildren's clothes. * Sewingbuttonsonsleeves, waistbands, etc. o The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. what each foot does in order to use them effectively. Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder. snaps on the foot holder, which is seldom removed. You need to know Changethe Use the Stitch Each presser foot merely Presser Foot correct presser foot Pattern Chart for the and the detailed stitch you directions wish for to sew. sewing with Consult the the various presser feet, If you need to remove or attach the foot holder, here is what you do: To Remove: Foot _ holder To Attach: To To Attach: To Snap Off the Presser Foot: Snap Off: ! SCrew To Remove: Turn the screw the machine. driver, toward Use the the back large of 1. Match holder screw the the presser 2. Fit hole with the the in the threaded foot 1. hole in bar. foot holder screw into the hole. 3. Tighten toward 10 Raise the screw by turning it needle bar to Raise the presser foot. 3. Press the will _ts hlghest position by turning the hand wheel you. 2. foot you. the toward snap-on drop off. button on the back of the foot holder. The presser • PresserFoot Types Straight Zigzag Foot f % To Snap On Use this foot A: for both Zigzag foot straight and zigzag Zigzag stitching Bar tackir_g G Button Place the presser foot zontal pin on under the groove the foot of lies the just foot holder. 2. the presser foot lock the presser foot holder to If you presser press foot do foot down holder not hear snap in place, on firmly hear the snap. the the presser until you Use this foot exclusively Straight foot for straight stitching Uses: Straight stitching lsee page 31), Topstitching {see page 32), Straight stretch (see page 34), Quilting (see page 33), (see page 41}, (see page 42), Lace work (see page 44), shell stitching (see page 54), Smocking (see page 55), patching Fagoting {see page 555), (see page 56), Herring in place. (see page 40_1, Two-point Elastic NOTE: stretch Stretch Lower (see page 39), zigzag Overcast so the hori- (see page 37), stretch Three-step 1. {see page 35), sewing Rick-rack To Snap On the Presser Foot; H: using center needle position only, stitching_ Uses: Feot bone stretch stretch Box stitching Two-point tsee page 56), (see page 5_7), (see page 57), box stitching Overedging stitch Decorative stretch (see page 58), (see page 58), stitching (see page 59). 1t o Presser Foot Types (Continued) Sliding Buttonhole Foot % Sliding Zipper buttonhole Satin Stitch Foot Foot foot E: Zipper foot F: Satin stitch foot J Use this system. It buttonhofes Uses: foot for is buttonholes marked to of buift-ln measure accurately. Buttonhole making {see page 45). your This foot your zipper. can be set to sew on each side of The edges of the foot zipper and keep the seam straight. Uses: Zipper application guide the (see page 52). Use this transparent outJining applique. Uses: Satin foot stitch Applique {see page 36), Shell stitching (see page 3_88), (see page 5__44), decorative (see page 60). 12 stitch {see page 37), Monogramming Geometric for satin stitching and Blind Hem Stitch Foot Overedge G; stitch Blind Foot Qu liter C: Overedge foot hem foot Quilter J Use this foot for The foot has ridges the fabric from perfect on the hemming. bottom to keep This foot stitching and a guide screw on small top to guide the folded edge of your fabric, Uses: (see page 43} Blind slipping blind hemming hem. from knit Uses: is especially and/or brush overcasting and Wire guides constructed for This attachment seams. The a quilting help control the ho_d the raw edge in place puckering, especially when and keep it sewing Uses; turns your zigzag foot into foot. Straight stitching {see page 33) on fabrics. Overcasting Serging stitch (see page 40), tsee page 42) 13 = Presser Foot Types Buttonhole (Continued) Foot Buttonhole foot Your Use this foot buttonhole Uses: when making attachment Buttonhole buttonholes with tn your system. making choice tsee page 48) of needle needle and thread case, you will depends find on the fabric the following Btue (t 1 ) .......... for stretch Orange for (11 ) ........ Red (14) Purple ........... (16) color-coded for topstitching (18) ........ for • 14 Check Your has a larger topstitching heavy stitching weight wetght and fabrics decorative on these fabrics needle thicker Green fabrics or medium-heavy medium-heavy (This needles: fabrics _ightweight for medium ........ you are sewing. weight thread hole for thread.) fabrics and decorative top- on these fabNcs Needle 1. Look for barbed 2. A damaged needle and silk-like fabrics. Always buy smooth and consistent a good or blunt point. can cause permanent quality thread. in thickness. It should snags or runs _n knits, resist tangling fine silks and be strong. Fabric, Needte, Thread : ;titch and NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR FABRIC Lightweight: Batiste, Dimtty, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace° Organza, Crepe, Tar{eta, Voile, Organdy 11.ORANGE Medium Wetght: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale_ G ingham_ Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin. Kmts, Vinyl Su_tings_ Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather Medium Heavy Wmght: Corduroy, Detain, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets, Leather 14-RED THREAD Your Needle RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTtNG SIZE Polyester CorelCotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A 50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester CorelCotton Wrap Silk A 2 (t2 stitches per inch] 2--2.5 (1 0.12 stitches per inch) C, "" "--4 ,/' l 1 14-RED or • 16-PURPLE Heavy Weight: Coat rags, Upholstery Cotton Duck Heavy Twitls, Canvas To Change Length Chart 18-G R E EN Decorative top-stitching on aH types of fabric 16-PURPLE 18-GREEN Stretch Fabrtc: Polyester Double Kmts_ Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex, Cire Tricot 11 -BLUE (STRETCH FABRtC NEEDLE) 50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy-Duty Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap SHk A Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A Buttonhole Twist (Use as top thread onSy) Polyester CoretOotten Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton Flat 2--3 (8-10 stitches per inch) s_de away lrom you 3 (8 stitches tnch) per NOTE: Raise tion 3-4 {6-8 stitches per inch) 2--2.5 (1 O-12 stitches per inch} the by needle turning bar to the its highest hand wheel screw by posttoward you, 1. Loosen the toward you. 2. Remove 3. insert with needle the needle the new clamp by pulling needle into the fiat side away from the 5. Tighten the needle needle go, clamp screw firmly from your ciamp you. Push the needle up as far as it will screwdriver it it downward. 4. large turning accessory with the storage box. 15 = To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine 1. Gently push =t towards 2. Set aside. 3. Lift down on the bobbin cover plate = Wind the Bobbin and slide you. out the bobbin, 3lurch as shown. I. Put your spool of thread onto spool pin, with the thread winding in the direction shown. 2. Pull the clutch winding 3. Draw thread from 4. Place out away from the machine to stop the needle from moving the spool threaded through bobbin on bobbin winder tension you the bobbin winding to the right until disc as shown, spindle so that the thread comes on top. 5, Push the bobbin 6, Holding 7, When onto winder spindle end of thread, the bobbin is slightly depress filled, it clicks, the foot control. stop the machine and cilp the thread the bobbin. 16 while the bobbin, 8. Slowly start the machine 9. Push the 10. Remove 11. Push in the clutch bobbin winder again and wind spindle the thread to the left and clip the bobbin. for normal sewtng operation. until the bobbin the thread. stops. coming from Insertthe Bobbin into the Bobbin Hotder 7 ® J 1. Put the holder bobbin so that counter-clockwise into the the thread (left)_ bobbin feeds 2_ Pull about toward slot @. you 4 inches through of the thread tension 3. Then pull the toward the back through the slot thread clockwise of the @ . machine 4. Slide the bobbin pushing it down bobbin, Allow thread to show cover plate slightly about above while over the 4 inches of the needle plate. t7 o Thread Your Needle II ] I ,,PI, 7 II --I l II l I I Raise take-up lever to its highest Raise presser foot Place spool The numbered steps above follow the numbers position by turning hand wheel toward you. lever. on spoot pin as shown, 1. Draw thread into thread 2. While holding check spring holder. 3. Firmly draw thread 4. Draw thread down 5. Thread then is slipped 6, Thread needle from thread with thread coming guide using near spool, both draw up and through from the back of the spool. hands. thread take*up down into the tension lever from right to left. area and then on the illustrations. Dotted loops lines and then show places is pulled tight. where the NOTE: 18 and slip it through the thread guide, thread You may want into needle bar thread front guide. to back. to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading. around the Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread Raise presser foot needle thread loosely and rotate lever. handwheet you one complete Hold in left hand toward 2. Bring bobbin top thread, thread up by pulling 3. Pull both back threads of the under presser foot, to 6 inches of thread and to the leaving 4 clear. turn, 19 m Adjust the Top Thread Tension Choose Top side of fabric the Correct The best tension SelUng mark --- Tension: will depend on; the stiffness and thickness the number of fabric of the fabric layers the type of stitch Top ___ thread The top thread _s too loose. Tighlen The top thread _s 1oo tigh_ Top For Straight The ideal fabric, If you Stitch straght as shown look gaps, that o_ Ta stttch witl have threads above, magnified at the each stitch When adjusting side stitch, top thread between the two layers of The top thread appears on the undemde of the fabric. to show detail. front is smooth locked and backt you will notice that there are no The bobbin lhread appears on upper _abrlc. sudace the o_ the and even. tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top thread, Tension The bottom _s too loose: top thread of the of the stitch 20 will Tension shows fabric. through The bottom feel bumpy. the s_de ts too tight: "The bobbin the top the stitch thread of the will fabric. come The top wi]l fee] bumpy. through side of For Zigzag Stitch in the of correct fabric below and for zigzag stitch, the top the correct the bobbin threads will appearance. threads show will slightly To match this not show on the on the top side bottom appearance, adjust side. your See top tension. Top tension Top tension Too Tight Too Loose Just Right The stktch selector Simply turn on stitch the stitch Top s_de of Fabric Top side of Fabric this control control indicator length control determines until panel. the stitch the desired The bottom is set at the stretch you stitch row stitch select. is indicated by the of stitches red indicator is selected when the posit'=on. Top side of Fabric NOTE: To avoid fabric Stitch patterns needle when or fabric selecting are color-coded damage, be sure your needle is up and out of a stitch. to recommend setting zones at the stitch length control ZONES Bottom sCde of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Too Tight: Too Loop; Just Right: --Corner ot each zigzag will pull together on the top side of fabrics, --The top thread will loop through bottom side ot fabric and will be pulled almost together, Minimize the amount of top thread visible on the bottom side of fabric w_thout causing excessive puckering or eausmg the bobbin thread to show on the top side. Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing conditions, = Orange ........ o Green ......... Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitches Geometric Decorative Stitches = Blue ......... = Yellow ...... Built-in Buttonhole Stretch Stitches Making 21 V Length Stremh The stitch stitches length controt Stitch regulates the length of stitch, and also has a stretch setting. The higher the number, the longer the stitch. stitch sewing, adjuster {n stretch should usually position (between position), may 0 means no feed. To select Stretch Stitches, NOTE : you set this control at Stretch need (blue), "Stretch Study control. coded select decorative make sure that you stitches do not (green) or built-in set the stitch to buttonhole length control at Stitch". the orange, These green, yeIlow are recommended to the stitches pictured and zones on the stitch blue section of stitch indicator around length this and color- panel. toward "'-" until center design. the the design right conllol desire. this "-" or design to sake. to control looks until slightly like the be c_osed as in illustrations, "'+" you controt like the illustrations the appears hand toward and for appearance seems open stitch in a neutral some fabrics, adjust adjust you 22 to left, If the "+'" the stitches If design When be When sewing balance Stitch. the stretch turn stitching the _s as :',Stitch WidthControl = Three Needle Position f V Width _ 2 3_4 f The stitch of the stitch The htgher width control regulates the width you select. the number, The stitch width the wider ] control needle positions s also regulates for straight the stitching. the stitch. ..... LEFT (_ ..... CENTER (_ ..... RIGHT First select straight stitch selector desired needle width control. You can easily to right under NOTE: needle position needle position needle position stitch control, position without adjust by turning the then select the by turning your moving the stitch needle from your fabric left from the presser foot. Setting 0 the position needle stitch also width gives control you at center position. 23 Three Needle Position _ 3 45 o 1 Left Needle Set the dial sewing 23 Position at left needle position the edge of the fabric. Right when Set for Needle the top of jacket 24 45 B dial Position at stitching etc. Right when needle sewing position on collar Now that you you each time 1. are famillar are ready to start you sit down Inspect the 2. inches placing to the your tt should and thread on your machine and wlth the accessories new Kenmore sewing be straight, properly set and sharp on the point, being used. made of synthetic Before the controls machine. Below provided for the machine, are some good habits to follow to sew: needle, for the fabric fabrics with to sew with the blends material rear of the Do not tend on the be afraid to du!l the needles more machine, machine, to change Hold see that the on to threads your easily ends during than fabrics of the the It should be the correct needle frequently, made threads sewing Many of natural fibers. have been drawn of the first size of the new 3 or 4 stitches about 4 of the seam. J To reverse stitch, trol sewing. during hold Release to sew forward down 3. Test the machine the machine this con4, Fabric should the right again. stitch on a scrap of fabric for the length be placed of stitch under edge of the material you plan to use, The fabric and tension the presser placed suitable foot on the with 5/8" to your the bulk should be double thickness, Adiust fabric. of the material seam marking to the left of the needle and on the needle plate when making a simple se_m, 5. Run the machine machine will sew. 6. Fasten each seam by back tacking 7. Always finish 8, Guide 9. sewing the fabric that the normal When turning at a slow even speed. gently with your more at the beginning each seam with feeding The pressure in front put on the foot contro!, the faster the and end of the seam. the needte at its highest hand you point. of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way is altered, the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you, 25 Stitch STRAIGHT ) I l I I Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach. Straight I I I I Straight Zigzag % Refer to Page Check Chart 2_6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 0 or Check Chart on p. 1__5 3_8 Orange Zone 1~6 Finish edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique, monogram, embroidery, sewing bar tacks. Check Cha_ 2_6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 2~6 Decorate 2_6 Orange Zone 2_3 Use for finishing Orange Zone 0 or Uses 2~6 Regular searms, etc. zippers, topstitching, darning, 31 _ 32, 52 ~ 53 (3D Zigza9 on p. 15 26 Stitch Width Check Chart onp. 15 on p. 1_55 ZIGZAG BLIND HEM STtTCH Stitch Length Zipper foot II1 III 111 ill RICK-RACK STRETCH Thread Tension _ilter_'? Darning Plate STRAIGHT STRETCH Needle Blind hem stitch Check Che_ on p. 15 Use on knits and other stretch for topstitching. garments fabrics, good with one row seams. or several. 34 35 ~ 39 40 43 Stitch Stitch Selection Foot and Other OVERCAST STRETCH Zigzag Attach. Needle Check Chart Thread Tension 2_6 < < Zigzag o_ % SMOCKING STITCH Zigzag (_ SHELL STITCH Stitch Width Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Uses Refer to Page 3_6 Use for swimwaar, skipants and other garments that require stretch. 42 5~6 Use for finEshing seams. 41 or as a decorative on p_ 15 THREE-STEP ZIGZAG < Stitch Length 2_6 Check Chart onp+ 0.5_ 1 t5 Cheek Chart 2_6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3_6 Use in smocking stitch. 55 4_9 Orange Zone 3~6 Fimsh hems, sleeve and neck openings. Use on nylon tricot and other |ingerte to overcast and seam. Do shell tucking on blouses and tlnger_e, 54 3_6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3N6 Finish hems, sleeve and neck opemngs. Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam. 42 on p. 15 Satin Check Chart onp. SERGING Overedge ! % Blue (11 ) on p. 15 Do shell tucking on blouses end flngerie. 27 J) Stitch Stitch Selection BOX STITCHING Foot and Other Zigzag Attach. Needle Check Chert Thread Tension Stitch Length Stitch Width Uses Refer to Page seams. 57 3 _ 8 Orange Zone 3 _ 6 Use for overlapping 3 _ 6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Posltlon 3-6 Use for apply=ng 0.5~2 5_6 Join two folded edges for decorative open-work appearance. 56 55 on p.15 ELASTIC STRETCH Check Chart onp._ elastic, 57 < / FAGOTING Check Chart onp. 3~8 STRETCH PATCH IN G Check Chart onp, 15 2 _ 6 Ye!tow Stretch Stitch Position 5~6 Use for patchwork Check Chart 3-8 Orange Zone 3-6 Do shell tucking on blouses and llnger=e. This stitch can also be used as e single ovedock st=tch as well. < < < TWO-POINT SHE LL STITCHING Zigzeg onp. L> 28 quilting, L> 15 54 Stitch Stitch Selection HERRING BONE STRETCH Foot and Other Attach. Zigzag % TWO-POINT BOX STITCH Zigzag L C_ C_ r3 % Needle Thread Tension Stitch Length Stitch Refer to Page Uses Width Check Chart on p. 155 2_6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Positron 3~6 Use as hemming and draperies. Check Chart on p. 15 3~8 Orange 3~6 Use for overlapping Check Chart 3~8 Orange Zone 3N6 Use for overedging_ 2~6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3~6 Use m smocking 3-8 Green Zone 3~6 Decorate garments with one row one stitch or a comblnatton. stitch for blankets, tablecloth 56 58 seams. Zone r_ OVEREDGE STITCH Zigzag % STRETCH STITCH DECORATIVE DECORATIVE GEOMETRICS Zigzag % Satin % 58 on p.155 Check Chart onp. 15 Check Cha_ or as a decorative stitch, 59 or several, 6O on p. 15 29 Foot and Other Attach. Sliding buttonhole Needle Check Cha_ Thread Tension 2 _ 6 Stitch Length Stitch Width Blue Zone 3 _ 6 Uses Buttonholes: also corded Refer buttonholes, to Page 46 _ 47 on p. 15 BUTTONHOLE 17 D Buttonhole Check Cha_ on p. 1__55 2_6 Check Chart on p. 155 3_8 4 Straight buttonholes buttonholes, end keyhole 48 _ 51 Q tl, SATIN 3O STITCH Satin 0.5~ 1 2~6 Use for applique work, also as decoratwe finish for ptacemats, blankets, collars, cuffs and pockets. 36 Straight Stitch Use the Seam Guides Set the Machine Stitch width control 0 or(_D 13 5 Cornering lop thread tension control 2 to t3 The Stitch length control orange Before zone foot, sewing always control to with the straight stitch set the width 0 or (_ stitch to avoid 1. 2. Raise the presser foot. the 3. H: Straight foot Place to Best sewing stitch results with foot, foot the but will also be for positions. all its highest 9. may want and end of to reverse to needle 4. zigzag and can needle plate seam width. lines are 1/8" with The the 5/8" and 7/8" apart, lines marked. the stitch. Raise the presser foot the fabric. and remove • Turn a Square Corner Cut the threads, the edge a stitching of the fabric guide plate line (5/8" next on is the most common), Draw the and lower provide results, used are straight the acceptable to beginning the to help you measure guide needle obtained needle the on are engraved position. Stretch Stitch NOTE: lock 8, Raise At seam, you breaking the needle. 4. 7. seam guides guide threads toward 5. Press the footcontroI. 6. Hold the fabric guide that Do it the back the presser foot. along 1. loosely the To turn fabnc and gently guide line, so it feeds naturally, not force pull it tight_ the fabric or try a square corner Stop stitching 2. by turning toward you when facing you lines Raise the guide, the fabric the 5/8" 3. and needle cornering to 5/8" from the edge: Lower stitching lower hand the fabric up with the wheel edge the as shown, presser foot to the edge with foot and begin line and turn seam guide. the presser in the new direction, 31 Use the Darning Plate Topstitching Darning Set the Machine plate Stitch width control 0 grog 2 3 ,_ o lop thread tension control 2 to 6 6 Stitch length control orange Here's How zone 2 1. Sometimes when you The Plate covers Darning To Put on the Darning NOTE: The right 2. you the feed want to control dogs so that the fabric they do not touch plate. 2. the fabric. in the In the darning the darning Fit darning mark. Darning plate, plate with plate The feed pins Plate match these holes the holes are slightly tn the Stretch Stitch the show needle through plate holes the darning Button at the The Stitch 32 and Its Uses Topstitching plate in the following (see page 34), Sewing edge of the fabric right edge guide the fabric ways: your (see page 39) emphasizes garment Accent and keeps the lines seams of and and crisp. suits of or to topstitching H: Strmght foot plate Evenly edge edges fiat Darning 3. to the the pins on the bottom. into dogs will holes. Use the darning the the of the next presser fool holes Position the the presser foot. Keep to of center. 5/8" Lower yourself. Plate: rectangular needte 1. sew, blouses two rows topstitching outer edges of cuffs, with one around lapels or collars. or the produce 5/8" along this an even row from the of edge. Straight Stitches = Quilting Set the Machine Stitch width contro_ 0 or I _ Quilter holding _'_ JW £xorew Stitch length control orange zone Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Here's How To do quilting e 1. Loosen the quilter 2. Slide the between Stretch The Stitch and A: Zigzag foot Its Uses Quilting is stitching together dimension with batting and warmth. Traditionally, covers, You can parts of cuffs and collars. fashions. quilting, stitches you on entire such into the stitches opening under the screw to the width you desire. Tighten Sew the first the screw. 5. Sew other row of stitching. rows, When basting guiding the quilting you are quilting stitch. large Then quilt from rows of straight guide over the previous areas, tack the layers row of stitching. together with the the center out. add quilt or stitch pattern to or pockets, of quilting with stitches, you can bartack your quilt at intervals. Set up the you fabric machine as if you were going to sew a button (see page 39). Position and bartack. for table straight with Instead regular garments as yokes, It is also popular addition can lines of quilting 3. fabric to has been used for bed use qu[Itlng In of between it _sused everywhere. garments, guide as shown. An other qu iltlng variation: quilting but now layers in screw on the back of the presser foot quilting 4, NOTE: two these simple steps: Stitch or H: Straight foot successfully, follow stitch decorative combinations. 33 "; i ; , __ =;_i:i :, _. ! :ii:i::,:_; ;_i i_! _iil ,i _:i, Sat the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 0 or C_ Stitch width control 0 or C_) ! IH I Top thread tension contro_ 2to6 Stitch length control any number (not necessary to adjust} 2 , Top thread tension controJ 2 to 6 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch poslt_on Here's How 1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate (see page 32). No presser foot 2. (see Stretch Stitch 3. Darning Remove plate presser page foot !_00), stretch ernbroidew hoops Draw bobbin the fabric and with stitch at start darning. the the holder fabric between hole centered. thread by holding one foot top spot up thread where Stretch through the the presser bar and and taking you wish to sew at a slow speed, 5. Move the fabric back you have covered 6. Turn the fabric hatf layer of stitching NOTE: If your and forth the darning turn fabric use a separate hole to rmnforce is thin slowly until area. The Stitch or badly the straight ed for knits This stitch damaged, under and Its Uses is the stretch variation of stitch, especially developand stretch fabrics. can also on all fabrics. be used for knits. It fabrics as well. the it, garments that deal 34 of When you finish darning, remove the darning plate and replace foot holder and foot. on other tt works seams and will well on on receive strain (ie. any a great children's clothes}, The stretch actually stitch stretch but forward the does as it back fabric in motion a so that of breaking. not is being stitched called stitch), when instead _s and (sometimes action" gwe 7. can be used curved sewn, layer, p_ece of fabric stitch topst_tching and sew antother over the first Stretch stitching was developed to be used on stretch fabrics and H: Straight foot This Lower Stitch "reverseit will stretches a : Zigzag Stitches : Basle Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch w_dth contro_ I to 6 _3 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch }ength control Or'e rtge Zone Here's How There are many Consult 4 Satin the specific Stitch Applique Stretch Stitch J The Stitch The zigzag common your stitch machine, for sewing ming, is one and most versatile It with trims, can the also mending be used appliques or as a decorative directions. page 37, page 38, page 38, Sewing page 39, page 40. most stitches buttonholes, overcasting, ing. of it can be a utility buttons, Button Overcasting and Its Uses for detailed page 37, Monogramming Embroidery variations page 36, Work Bar Tacking A: Zigzag foot ways to sew a ztgzag stitch. on stitch hem- and darnto decorate and cut-out work stitch. 35 ¸:¸ Satin Stitch Set the Machine Zigzeg Stitch width length e € _controf2tO_l 2 3 width Slllch : 2 4- s Top thread teRston (_3 contro_ 3 to 8 t Stitch tenglh control 0.5 to 1 Close to 0 Stretch Stitch F: Satin stitch foot Pressuredial: The Stitch 1 or and Its Uses The Satin stitch used decorative is a versatile stitch, but and often be used to overcast a raw edge (for ample0 linens, blankets, ex- tablecloths in applique. 36 stitch Once is espematly How attracUve your machine of the fabric weight and napkinsh The Satin Here's _t can a]so fabrics. is set up to stitch, you are planning you may want to use. Too tight satin to experiment stitch on a fragment may pucker some light Applique = Set the Machine Bar Tacking Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 6 Stitch wtdth control 2 to 6 2 1 Top thread tens=on control 2 to 6 ;f Stitch length controt 0.5 to 1 2 Top thread tens=on control 2 to 6 J Baste ior joiner) apptique Stitch around sure Stretch Stitch F: Satin sttteh toot Pressure dial:2 the fuse with iron-on pieces on the needte applique falls along Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 fabric the fabric. making the outer edge of the applique, When sewing down into foot and or _eft. corners, the fabric. pivot the lower Stretch Stitch the needle ] ThL5 stitch is similar satin stitch and points of pockets and straps on lingerie. strain to a very short is used such to reinforce as corners or Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches, Raise the presser fabric to the right A: Zigzag foot 37 iii Monogramming = Embroidery Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 to 6 Stitch width 2 I a Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Fop thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0.5 to 6 Stitch length control Any number Inot necessary to adjust) Here's How 1. 1, Set the same as satin stitch. 2. Back Herc:'s How the fabric with paper or {nterfacing. Stretch Stitch 3. Draw with F_ Satin stitch foot 4, the letters-on tailor's the fabric the stitch chalk. Satin stitch, adjusting width as necessary to form each No presser foot 2. Remove foot 3, Adjust the Stretch Stitch If using when you carefully have finished remove sewing. holder on the needle {see page 10), stitch 4. Draw the design with tailor's chalk. 5. Stretch the dory paper, plate width as desired on the (see page 23). pattern. 5, darning plate (see page 3_22). 4 0_;_ Put the fabric to between hoops-and place fabric embrm- under the needle. it 6. Lower the presser foot lever to engage the top thread tension. 7. Holding hand, the top rotate thread the hand you one complete turn. Pull the bobbin in your wheel left toward top thread to thread through to the surface draw the of the fabric. 8. Using the 38 fabric a medium marked carefully speed, outline, by hand. stitch guiding along the Sew a Button Set the Machine Stitch w=dth control 0 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 _ co Stitch length control Any number inot Use the darning ._ necessary;o plate for button sewing (see page 32). To adjust) 1. Match the center of the button holes to the center of the slot on the presser needle in the foot, Stretch Stitch 2. Adjust the stitch 3. Lower the foot Turn A: the hand width to hotd wheel so that needle wilt drop the button by hand so in each hole. needle Draw will enter thread button the shank, a 8" tail, cut the Bring the down through the hole and wind it around the shank. in place. that leaving either hole of the the thread to the bottom side and knot. button. Zigzag foot Darning plate strengthen threads 4. Stitch several times. 39 = Rick-Rack Stretch Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch w{dth controi 2 to 6 2 Stitch width control 3 to 6 2 1 Top thread tension control 3 to8 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 _D Stitch length control orange zone 2 Helpfut Start raw right up Stretch Stitch Hints overcasting corner about of your the st=tches Stitch length control yettow stretch stitch position If you wil! witt you might start bunch Thts become top tangled. Stretch C: Overedga The Stitch and Its Uses ThLs zigzag garment A: foot variation is very construction raw edges of any sewing 4O and useful in finishing project. m The Stitch and Its Uses Sew on stretch 118" inside the seam, at the edge, the fabric and (2£) Zigzag toot Stitch ?abr=cs in any area that use a zigzag stitch. stitch can be used as a decorative stitch as wetl, Three-Step Zigzag Set tha Machine Stitch width control 5 to 6 Stitch length control 0.5 to 'i Seam Finishing Piace so that (Overcasting) the fabric the under edge will Mending the presser toot be slightly inside Pos_t_on that the tear the stitching under witl the catch neec_le so both sides_ the r_ght hand side of the presser foot, Stretch Stitch A: zigzag zigzag and straight has flatter The fail at the edge of the fabric. work so the right hand and its Uses The three-step would the stitches Zigzag foot ]-he Stitch the Gu=de three-step basic strength, than a regular three-step You may use z_gzag ever¥whe_e use the more is a combination stitch. zigzag zigzag you stitch. elasticity, and It _s zigzag, stitch is especial- Iy usefut for: - mending -- sewing patches smoothly and securely, - repairing straight - finishing seams, tears. 41 Overcast Stretch Stitching Sarging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitchin[ Set the Machine Sat the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 s 3 Top thread tension controt 2 to 6 Stitch width control 3 to 6 2 1 the Stitch Stretch Stitch raw edge of the lust short of the outside Or, place your and Its Uses The seam one operation. It you are making swimwear, stretch. 42 trim ts formed and sewtng or worn finished that ski In when pants require foot to allow seam to Use a blue needle, prevents the fabric so that under the the stitches presser are made edge. a 5/8" Stretch further stretch skipped Overed£a foot fabric effectively stitches. When using fabric, use a blue stretch fabric needle effectively garments prevent which NOTE : Stitch allowance edges of older overcast How over the edge. the fabric raveling, NOTE: can be used garments a Place C: cat_ be This stttch can be used for seam wtth an overcast finish. other then fabric to after, Raw and fabric Here's as shown. so the needle pierces seam, Zi£rzegfoot yellow st=tch pos_t_on Here's How the LEFT. of the needle The Stitch Stitch length control stretch Place A: c_b Top thread tension contro_ 3 to 6 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position 2 The Stitch and Its Uses Use stttch narrow th_s when seam that you press open flat. It seams kmts or on heavywewght want woven a narrow for making skipped _s ideal want a need to for 1/4" on medium to fabrics where you seam. elastic you do not swim It _s also great wear. kmt stretch whzoh prevents stitches. Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to :3 2 3 I/4" # 0 _ Light Weight Fabric Fop thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control orange zone 2 Stretch Stitch t/4" Heavy Weight Fabric 1. Finish 2. Measure, NOTE: Blind Hem Stitch Foot G '_L,JWhen the _,I needle ,'_ ,_ comes _; to the the raw edge of your turn up your For light weight material hem any way you desire. (See overcasting hem and pin, fabrics, (bottom you out) on the 4. Place garment under presser foot in such a manner stitch should just catch the fold of the garment. that 5. After The top sides of the finished edge fold. Fold the showing. press both side may need a double 3. hemming, page 40). hem. to be stitched, straight as shown, stitches wilt leaving the finished be sewn on extended edge. side of the garment will 1/4" of show only the blind hem edge The zigzag stitches. 43 ilili!!ii!iiilji Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 3 1 Fop thread tension 2 to 6 controt Z 3 4- 5 c_ Stitch _ength control ! 2 Stretch Stitch Lace A: to Zigzag foot pillows wh_,m trimmed Turn and feminine _ingerie. become touch Table more linens elegant w_th _ace. raw edge of fabric 5/8", Place stitch using stretch Tnm 44 a fanciful, blouses and J adds under lace underneath excess fabric blind at least and hem stitch. close to stitching, top- = Learningto Sew Buttonholes With your Kenmore buttonholes. snap-in sewing You automatic may machine use the buttonhole you have two built-in system attachment system, methods or you of making Tips on buttonholing may use the Always use. Always Choose the buttonhole 1. Built-in Choose this 2. Round Choose st'_le for waistband, end buttonholes this style Tissue (rectangular). need only one or two for a practice buttonhole with use an interfacing on a scrap of fabric the button you will in area of garment you plan to use, where buttonholes are placed. style bottonholes make Try the buttonhole cuffs, belt slots or where you w_ll paper (Template of No. 213504005, buttonholes or regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after if it is used.. For heavier buttons. series stitching, weight fabrics, loosen y'our top thread tension slightly. 213505006_, on dresses, blouses, vests, jacke_s or coats. Keyhole Choose buttonholes this need more (Template style for tailored room for button No. 213506007), vests, iackets, coats or any time you shank. 45 Set the Machine r _ Stitch w_dth control 3 to 6 "_ Stitch length controt Blue zone F==_ _31 1, a. Carefully mark length on your b, Change the buttonhole to the sliding buttonhole b. c. _nser_ Stiding buttonhole foot foot the with ing runnmg __ garment the under buttonhole toward the so that foot, top thread tension controt 2 to 6 2. a. Move garment. the you. (A) the Stitch Depending upon c. NOTE. own preference may alter density Density your in the withm For the less toward 2. For 46 blue length density, you stitch buttonhole dial. turn the diat turn the dial "" 1" more toward NOTE; or your buttonhole range on the stitch t. fabric buttonholes, dens=ty, _._s "0", Always make tonhole on plan use to find to suitable a practsce a scrap tabric stitch length. butyou the more Slrelch Stitch you (C) on the slider meets the start Lme up the markings foot with the top Lower mark mark {B). on the on your the presser loot. The markings are engraved Ad usting toward mark garment, mark- Stretch Stitch slider the top on the slider in centimeters. 3, a, Set the stttch selector b. Sew forward front undl markmg of at you your _ button- holm c. Stop sewmg , reach the at the left stitch, m 4. a. Set the stitch selector at [1 I_! 5° a. b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop sewing Set the stitch b. Sew until at the right selector you at reach the I_l 6. a. Set the stitch c. Stop sewing at b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. back of 7. Remove hole opener the buttonhole. stitch. selector c. Stop at the right sewing at the left stitch. the open fabric with in your the and cut the buttonhole accessory storage box. stitch. NOTE: When sliding sewing at the edge of fabric, buttonhole foot set as illustrated k._ -- ........ j 47 Buttonhole Buttonhole For more Attachment varied and hole attachment your machine attachment Style and Size System accurate buttonholes, and templates. properly. You you will enjoy using Know the parts read carefully will need these items for the buttonRound End Buttonhole how to set up the Keyhole Buttonhole buttonhole system. Guide slot t Measuremen t ark_ng Catch Buttonhole 0 Template 213504005 213505006 213506007 3/8" t/2" 15/16" 7/8" 5/8" 13/t6" lq/4" guide plate NOTE: !llustrations buttonhole tength of templates Base plate Buttonhole foot 48 buttonhole to be sewn, easily by on the template. Buttonhole 1-1/16" 1-1/16 '' Sizes on You will matching !-t/2" template find the button 1-1/4" show actual the most suitable with the proper 1-3/8" length of buttonhole illustration Set the Machine Stitch w_dth Pins (A) a _ Lever Round Tol thread Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 4 2 Hook Rectangular Stretch Stitch Buttonhole Helpful toot Hints You can #60 _ bobbin NOTE: obtain #80 best light results weight to use threads as thread. It a. Remove b. Raise the needle to its highest c. Remove d, Pull bobbin thread e. Insert hook of base plate f. Pull g. Snap two is advisable fabric sewing knits the extension the foot lever back holes hole table. position. holder. out about 3" straight into rectangular to align the hook base p_ate down round Release stretch Base ptate v to fit two with pins back toward rear of machine. hole of needle plate° the rectangular (A) at the back hole. of base plate into (B) on needle plate. tever, to use a blue needle and when synthetic fabrics. 4g Buttonh_e guide ptete ; toot ! _,T_-- G_d Top thread Template Gear _._,//Slot _ l Gu de bock "'" _'_ II. "_ _ ""Catch I / Setting Mark _" _,-.----- a. When you have selected b, Pull catch toward hole size you C. insert gear of into the center you while have chosen base pfate Bobbin thread Base plate the template hole you need, slide the template Starting point Gear '=::: " 2o \ with into slidin!] the size and style button- the guide plate. the template until the 3, a, Attach b. Adjust slot of template position of foot. gear so The lever can be used to change and fit guide block c. of the guide slot. Pul] the bobbin toward d. you while Place the bobbin thread holding is aligned with the starting point of gear position. up through guide slot by turning the hand top thread. and top threads Leave 3 to 4 inches of thread. 5O it template. button- is at the s_,_tting mark. into the buttonhole to the left side of guide plate. wheel Marked buttonhole a. Lower b. Start c. Allow d. Cerl[er marking" To the buttonhole sewing foot. slowly. the machine to do the work (Do not try to guide the fabric.) Stop sewing when the needle release the base plate off buttonhole base plate, by itself. returns pull the to the position lever toward where you it begins. and lift the the machine. Fabric Measurement markings Adjusting You control 4. ab Mark b. Placing your buttonhole your garment position carefully behind the foot as shown. C_ Align marked buttonhole with center d. Line up fabric plate just eL NOTE: your in front Pierce the fabric tf line you want edge with with your up the fabric insert foot buttonhole the 1/2 to it between on buttonhole markings the closeness of the stitches by turning the stitch length 4 to 3. the guide foot. (_ be 1/2 inch inch markings Fine stitches for figh_ on the guide Stitch length control 4 "_o3 as shown, the needle at the beginmng with alter from fabrics marking the measurement of the buttonhole may density on the garment. machine, plate and the buttonhole the stitch of the buttonhole. from the each time garment edge, you start to sew 0 _'4 a buttonhole. Stretch L -o- Stitch J 51 Fabric Preparation: Set the Machine Put the top sides of the fabric and sew opening. to the Use the end of reverse Stitch wtdth together the control zipper to lock 0 2 1/8") /Zipper _eelh or 3 # Zipper the tape stitches. Sew the length zipper at "4"' opening and top with thread stitch tension at °'3", Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length controt 2 End ol opemng To Sew: 1. Reset thread Fold 4 Top stde of fabric 4, stitch length tension back at 2 and top at 2 to 6. 5. E: Zipper toot Top edge of fabric 3. Turn under the right seam allowance to form a 1/8" fold. Place the zipper 1/8" fold teeth next 6. to the - the zipper To sew on the attach the left presser on the zipper • foot: attach the presser on the zipper side of the zipper, bar to the right pins foot. side of the zipper, bar to the left pins zipper the bottom tape. Sew the Lower through of on the top the needle pierces and the zipper fabric foot. To sew on the right foot the at the slider 7. To attach Lower zipper and pin in place. presser bar to the right foot. so that Stitch 2, the pins on the zipper side the left seam allowance as shown. Stretch Attach fold tape to the point zipper the fold and the where the begins. the needle to hold and raise the presser foot. the 8, Openthezipper. 10.C_osethe zipper fabric top side up. 9, Lowerthepresser footandstitch therestof theseam, and turn the 1, Remove attach the the zipper presser foot bar to pins on the zipper foot. 12. Stitch below 13. Turn across and and bot- corner and continue to guide the teeth, as shown, Stitch zipper foot through the the fabric zipper and 2" from the top of the Lower the needle into the fabric and raise the presser foot, 16, along about z_pper. 15. the tom of the zipper. the 14+ Stop the left Remove the basting stitches and open the zipper. 17. Lower the foot and stttch of the seam. Make the rest sure the'fold is even. tape. 53 :: : ::: : ;; : :: :;;;: : : :;} ; : :. : Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width Stitch width control 3 to 6 2 3 o Top thread tension eontro| 4 to 9 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control orange Here's zone 1, How e Stitch Iength control orange zone 3, For best effect: - set the stitch length as you desire, -- you may need to tighten top thread Stretch Stitch - a_low fabric _ J The Stitch and Its Uses The Shell Stitch blind hem over rows of shell is formed forded stitching stitching can by sewing fabric. a Several are called shell be used to finish to create hems, sleeve and neck openings. Sheii tucking scalloped lingerie, 54 can tucks be on 2. If you sew space the tucks. Shell the clear the F: Satin stitch foot used blouses and You folded rows to Stretch Stitch just edge of the A: Zigzag foot it zigzags. of shell stitches, rows 5/8" wovens the slightly. needle when can sew Shell sort silky tension Stitch apart. on knits in any direction. or % ..... \ This stitch single overlock can also stitch be as well used as a Smocking Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 2 3 Top thread tenston :ontro! 2 to 6 Stitch width control 5 to 6 2 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control yeitow stretch stitch _D Stitch length controi yellow stretch stitch pos_oon pOSJl[lOn The Stitch For 4 and its Uses patching worn out elbows or knees, Stretch Stitch Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot A: Zigzag foot With the stitch length at "4", straight stitching lines 3/8'" across the area to be smocked. Knot the the threads bobbin gathers the stitch Pull evenly. other along threads Loosen tension one edge. and distribute Pull the the threads Sew the decorative the gathering out the gathering NOTE: apart Secure end. between sew the to at stitches. stitches, top make thread gathering easier. 55 Set the Machine Sot the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 Stitch width control 5 to 6 2 C_ Top thread tension :ontrol 3 to 8 Top thread tansson control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0.5 to 2 Here's 1. How Fold under each fabric Stitch length control yel_aw stretch stitch pos_on Place edge 5/8" and press. 2. Stretch Stitch Pin the tear-away 3. Sew The Stitch Use this fabric to appearance 56 needle to iota create I/8" guiding catches edge on each side. to paper or two an and add design pieces of open interest. work the apart, the fabric the folded Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot Use and Its Uses as hemming tablecloth stitch and draperies. for blankets, fabric top 3/8" from Trim close to stitching. prevent The Stitch and Its Uses stitch edges backing s_owly, so the A: Zigzag foot two ........... J Here's How side up, and sew the edge. raveling. The stitch will Stitch Sot the Sot the Machine Machine St_l;chwidth control 3 to 6 Stitch width contro_ 3 to 6 2 Top thread tension control 3 to 6 _OO GD Fop thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control yellow stretchstitch Stitch length control orange zone 2 position Use this stitch to join heavy weight interlining, Overlap two use this stitch raw edges together and to join them. Stretch Stitch Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag toot A: Zigzag toot Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments. 1. 2. Mark the elastic quarters the center these center back and side seams. Place the under the to into match and front, middle of the elastic center of the presser foot and stitch sure the elastlc into place, making is evenfy distrt* bu ted, 57 ¸¸ i!iii ¸!iii:iii¸_i_i i ........... _ Set rite Machine Stitch z width 3 (3D Top thread tension controJ 3 to 8 Thi,.; to 58 Zigzag foot 6 3 to 6 Stitch length control to2 Stretch w_dth o e control A: Stitch ,_ o TOp thread tension control 3 to B Set the Machine stitch join them is useful together. for elastic (see page c_D Stitch length control l to 3 This fabrics edging 577) Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag toot Stitch stitch stitch. can be used for a over- DecorativeStretchPatterns Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 6 Top thread tenslon controt 2 to 6 Stitch length controt yellow stretch stitch positron The Stitch Decorative touch and stretch patterns can be used for to the items you sew for your You can decorate A: Zigzag foot Its Uses ehi|dren's clothes, home adding creative and personaiised and family. women's blouses, curtains, etc. Stretch Stitch 59 Set the Machirt_ Stitchw_dth control 3 to 6 I Top thread tension control 3 to8 co Stitch length contro_ green ZOn_ Here's 1. How Adjust the stitch width and length as you desire. F: Satin stitch foot The Stitches and The,r These stitches You special Stitch Uses are pu rely decorative. can sew one row or severa[ or vary the stitch width and length effects. Experiment 6O Stretch on a scrap of fabric for 2. Practice 3. Mark the fabric, using 4. Lower the needle at the starting 5. Lower the presser foot. 6. Gentty maked to see what spemal effects are possible. the stitch lines for decoration a washable guide line. on a scrap of fabric. the on the fabric fabric marker. point. atong the ;:Whatto DO when PROBLEM PROBABLE _ncorrect Irregular Stitches CAUSE s_ze needle. Improper threading, Loose upper thread Puiling fabric, Loose presser foot, Choose correct size needle Rethread machine. tension. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate, Breaking Bunching Puckering Needle of Thread CORRECTION Pulling fabric, Incorrect size needle, incorrect setting of needle, Loose presser foot. Tighten upper thread Do not pull fabric; Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin, Replace needie it gently. or polish off burrs completely. Do not putl fabric; guide _t gently. Choose correct size needle for thread Reset needle. Reset presser and fabric, tension. guide plate, for thread and fabric. foot. Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam. When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under back of presser foot about 4" and hold untii a few stitches formed, Incorrect Using two different s_zes or kinds of thread. Bent or blunt needle, Reset thread tension. Upper thread and bobbin Insert new needle. Loose presser foot. Fabric too sheer or too soft, Reset presser foot, Use underlay of tissue paper, thread tension. thread should and are be same size and kind. 61 PROBLEM PROBABLE incorrect SMpping Stitches Breaking Upper Breaking Fabric Machine 62 Thread Bobbin not Thread Moving Jamming Knocking Noise CAUSE s_ze needle, CORRECTION Choose correct s_ze needle Bent or blunt needle, Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension, insert new needle. Reset needle. Loosen upper thread Starting to stEtch too fast. improper threading. Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle. Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine. Sharp eye m needle. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Insert Improper bobbin threading. Lint in bobbin holder or hook Check bobbin Clean bobbin for thread tension. speed, Loosen upper thread tension. Choose correct s_ze needle for thread race, Replace needle plate, or polish threading. holder and hook Remove darning plate. Adjust Stitch Length Control. Place both threads back under to stitch. Push-pull Push in the clutch. Thread caught Lint m bobbin is disengaged. m hook race. holder or hook race, and tabnc. new needle. Darning plate In place. Stitch Length set at 0. Thread knotted under fabrfc, clutch and fabNc. off burrs compfetely. race. presser foot Disassemble and clean hook race, Clean bobbin holder and hook race. before beginning Bulb To insure that your machrne operates at its best, you need to keep the essential parts clean at all times. The bobbin or knock 1. Unplug the machine area can attract loudly if a thread dust and lint. Your machine can become sluggish is caught, and open the face cover. CAUTION_ The _ight HOT, fingers handle 2. Push bulb the butb will Protect bulb be your when you it, up counter-clockwise Follow and turn to the Put the new bulb in by pushing it clockwise. off the power Brush or vacuum the dust and lint out of the bobbin or uoplugthe machine. 2. up and turning Turn 4. 5. Replace holder, 6, Slide on the bobbin pushing it into cover plate by the grooves, the bobbin. remove it, 3. 1_ these directfons: Remove firmly it 3, Remove the bobbin pulling cover plate it toward bv you. the bobbin. 63 Open face cover two drops Remove 1. Unplug the machine the presser foot 2. Remove the and remove and needle. bobbin face 5. Take out bobbin the bobbin. holder Lift and remove plate and oil points as shown below at least once a year. On or of oil is sufficient. excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabrics, up the _t, cover plate. 3. Remove of the screw the needle on the teft side w_th the large screw driver. In 4. Remove the needle plate. case machine extended time, Use good No other Above require 6, Use the feed dogs, holder. c1oth, 64 lint brush hook Also race use to clean the and bobbin a soft, dry Line up the the bobbin next to red marks holder the stopper race, as shown and place so the knob fits above. in the hook quality oiling points oiling is not oll it used before sewing machine for an sewing. oil. is required are on this only area machine, which PARTS LIST ! 2 3 4 5 7 % % 11 17 18 12 19 8 13 20 16 21 22 23 J 65 All parts listed herein WHEN ORDERING INFORMATION: may be ordered REPAIR PARTS, 1. 2. PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION 3. 4. MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked transmitted handling. to from a Sears Repair any Sears store or service center. ALWAYS locally, Parts your Distribution GIVE THE FOLLOWING order will Center be electronically for expedited Ref. No, 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 t6 17 18 t9 2O 21 22 23 Part No. "2&B868 Description Bobbin 102403202 813404013 655t 6552 6553 6554 652806003 685502008 825813005 823803006 822804118 820817015 822801001 802422002 *6864 6797 820832005 41669 Spool 802424004 6830 *6889 Lint 652804001 213502003 213501002 213504005 213505006 213506007 213503004 box with 10 bobbins pin felt No. 11 Stretch fabric needles No. 1 t Single needles (ORG) No, 14 Single needles (RED) No. 16 Single needles (PUR) No, t8 Single needles (GRN) Straight (BLU) foot Zigzag foot Sliding buttonhole Zipper foot Satin stitch Blind hem stitch Overedge foot foot foot foot Quilter Needle Light threader bulb Large screw Small driver screw driver brush Buttonhole opener Oil and lint brush Darning plate Buttonhole guide plate Base plate Template (Round end small) Template (Round end large) Template (Keyhole) Buttonhole foot * These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per instructions above+ 66 INDEX A Accessory storage box ............ Appliqueing ................... 2, 8 26, 37 B Bar tacking ................. Base .......................... Base plate ................ 4, Basic zigzag ......... .......... Blind hemming ............... Blind hem stitch foot . . _ 4, 13, 26, Bobbin ............. 4, 16_17, Bobbin holder ............... Bobbin thread .................. Bobbin winding ................... Bobbin winding spindle ............. Box stitching ................... Buttonhole ..................... Buttonhole attachment ........ Buttonhole foot ....... 4, 14, 30, Buttonhole guide plate ..... 4, 30, Buttonhole making ............... Buttonhole opener .......... 4, Buttonhole template ...... 4, 30, Button sewing ................ C Cabinet ......................... Changing needle ................. Changing presser foot ........... Cleaning hook race and feed dogs Cornering guide ................. 48, 26, 43, 63, t7, 30, 48, 48, 47, 48, ....... D Darning .................. 26, Darning plate ...... 4, 32, 34, 38_39, Decorative geometirc patterns ...... Decorative stretch patterns .......... 26, 37 2 65_-66 26, 35 43_44 65_66 65_66 63~64 19_20 16 2, t6 28, 57 30, 45 45, 48 65_66 65_66 45_51 65_66 65_66 26, 39 2 15 10_11 64 3t 32, 34 65_66 29, 60 29, 59 E Elastic stretch .............. Embroidery ................. Extension table .................. 28, 57 26, 38 2, 8 F Fabric, needle, thread and stitch length chart .................. Face cover plate ............. Fagoting ..................... Feed dogs ...................... Foot control ..................... Free arm sewing ............... !5 2, 6, 63_'64 28, 56 64 3, 5 6_9 H Hand wheel ................... Herring bone stretch ............. Hook race ..................... 3, t9 29, 56 64 L Lace work ...................... Large screw driver ............ Light and power switch .............. Light bulb ................ Lint brush ................ 44 4, 65_66 3, 5 63, 65"_66 4, 63_66 M Monogramming ............ N Needle ............... Needle clamp ............... Needle plate ................... Needle, thread and fabric chart Needle threading ................ 26, 3B 14_15, 65_66 3, 15 2, 17 ......... 15 !8_19 O Oiling ........................ 64 Overcasting stitch ................. 40 Overcasting stretch ............... 27, 42 Overedge stitch .................. 29, 58 Overedge foot ...... 4, 13, 27, 40, 42, 65_66 P Parts list ..................... Performance problems ............. Plug connector .................. 65_66 61_62 3, 5 Portable case ..................... Power switch ................... Practica] stitch chart .............. Pressure control dial ................. Presser foot .................. Presser foot lever .................. Push-pull clutch ................. Q Quil_r ............. 2 3, 5 26_'30 6 3, 10"-14 3, 7 3, 16 4,13,26,33,65_66 R Reverse stitch control .......... Rick-rack stretch stitching ......... 2, 25, 31 26, 40 S Satin stitch foot , , , 4, 12, 27, 29, 30, 36_38, 54, 60, Satin stitching .............. Seam guides ...................... Sergmg ....................... Serging or pine leaf stretch .......... Sewing light ...................... Shell stitching ................. Sliding buttonhole foot ............. 4, 12, 30, 46_47, Small screw driver ............. 4, Smocking ..................... Snap-on button .................. Speed range switch ................. Spool pin felt ............... Spool pins ....................... Stitch length control ............... Stitch selector ................... 66_66 65_66 27, 55 3, 10 2, 6 4, 7, 65_66 2, 7 2, 22 3, 21 Stitch width control ............ 2, Straight stitching ............. 26, Straight stitch foot , ; 4, 11, 26, 31_34, Straight stretch stitching ........... Stretch patching ................. Stretch stitch adjuster .............. T Take-up lever .................... 65_66 30, 36 31 27, 42 27, 42 5 27, 54 23_24 31_33 65_66 26, 34 28, 55 3, 22 2, 18 67 Thread cutter ..................... Thread guide ................. Three-step zigzag ................ Topstitching ................. Top thread ................... Top thread tension .............. Top thread tension control ...... Turning a square corner .............. Two-point box stitching ............ Two-point shell stitching .......... Z Zigzag foot Zigzag Zigzag Zipper Zipper 68 ........ 2, 7 2_3, 18 27, 41 26, 32 18_21 20_2t 2, 20"_21 31 29, 58 28, 54 11, 26_29, 33, 39_42, 44, 54_59, stitching ............. 26, overcasting ................ application , ,. ......... 26, foot ....... 4, t2, 26, 52_53, 35, 37, 6_r_66 35_40 40 52_53 65_66 SETTINGUPYOURMACHINE 1. You'll cover, find spool pins on Pull up the spool pins and spool pin felt on the pins. the top place the 2 Plug foot control into machine receptacle_ Then connect cord into any 1!0 -" t20 volt A.,C wall outlet. 3 Your Kenmore sewing machine has been thoroughly oiled at the factory_ Be sure to wipe off'the needle plate area, bed plate and shuttle carefully before sewing a garment tt is wise to practice on a scrap of fabric so any surplus oil is absorbed. Spool pin felt Spool pin STITCH SELECTOR There are certain types of stitches that construction. Because of their frequent are used more often than others in your use, you will soon realise the convenience garment offered to you by this control. The desired stitch will be obtained by turning indicated by the red line on the indicator panel. the Stitch Selector Dial until c3 c3 c3 c3 E3 E3 C3 E3 C3 E3 C3 C3 O E3 E3 E_ E3 C3 C3 C3 [] I',I st,.c. tli Selector > the stitch is CHART i BLIND < " MENDING TENSION ORANGE ZONE I TO6 I 3T08 N_,._ ORANGE ZONE 2TO3 / 2TO6 5TO6 i 2TO6 / 0,5 TO 1 FOOT _ 2T06 VVV *V^'v"%v 5. PRESSER CONTROL l 4. [ l DIAL _ ............ _ El ORANG ! l 3, WIDTH DIAL ---- ii ...................... T H 'G STRA ZIGZAG LENGTH SELECTOR OR 2, 1. O ' STITCH N STITCH zO PRACTICAL H' ' A ! G A _HE'L .... ............. --V-X-" ORANGEZ0"E I 3TO0! 4T09 1 F BOX _ FAGOT,NG ORANGE ! _ ZONE 3 TO 6 3 TO 8 " A O.0TO2 IOTO0! 3T°° I A _O-PO,NTSHELL f -V-V"_ ORANGEZONE I3TO0 I 3TO8! A TWO-POINT OVE:R BOX / EDGE 7U_LIMU T l '_VVV _ ORANGE ZONE t ORANGE ZONE ! 3TO6 ' ' "' '3"',,,tO" _ t 3708 t A 1 3TO8 1 A ,TRA,GHTSTRETOH t "=----'=--= YELLOWPOS,T,ON t OOR®1 2TO0t RICK-RAcK I '/_I_ YEL'LOWPOSITIONI ...... I SMOCKING ELASTIC i PATCHING _ BU_ONHOLE ' "B UTTO ".. SATIN i GEOMETR / A POSITION I PosiT ON'/ 3 T06 3TO6 i t 2TO6 2TO6 1 t A A _ Y E LLOW F'O'S'i"Ti'O N ,TO6 l 3TO6 l ....... A ...... YELLOW PosiTioN 5T06 I_ _ POSITION BLUE'ZONE _ GREEN i 3 T0 6 3 TO 6 4 ICS VIII_II_I_II_VII_I_ VVV 2T06 A YE_LOWPOS,T,O. 3TO0 1 2TO0 I A YELLOW _ N HO LE''"" i_l DECORATIVE 2TO' YELLow YELLOW DECORATIVE I_ ........ i _ .... _ ..... "ERR,NG_ONE ...... _ STR ETCH =T'°6 H 2 ZONE o.s TO 3 TO 6 I ............... 2 TO 6 2 TO 6 1 A 2 TO"6 .................................... 2 TO6 3 TO 8 F 3 TO F 8 y WARRANTY FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY For 25 years from _ in the sewing FULL For two years WARRANTY from circuit 90-DAY date of purchase, MACHINE Sears will, HEAD .-= free of charge, repair defects in material OF SEWING MACHINE or workmanship which appear # head, the in the electrical and printed FULL machine TWO YEAR appear # the ON SEWING ON ELECTRICAL date of purchase, and electromc EQUIPMENT Sears will, equipment free of of the sewing charge, machine, repair defects including in material motor, wiring, or workmanship switch which # and speed control boards. WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS # For 90 days from necessary for proper To obtain warranty CANADA. This warranty This warranty the date operation service gives you of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance. described applies specific only above, SIMPLY while legal rights, SEARS this product CONTACT THE SEARS STORE mechamcal OR SERVICE service CENTER IN is in use in CANADA. and you may also have other CANADA NEAREST and prowde INC., TORONTO, rights which ONT, M5B vary from 2B8 state to state. i) SEWING Now that MACHINE you or service, have purchased simply (:ontact your your Kenmore nearest Sewing Machine, Sears Serwce Center, should a need ever exist for repair Be sure to pertinent facts when parts you call or visit. The model your WHEN *MODEL If the Repair number Sewing ORDERING NUMBER parts of your Machi-,e. you Sewing Machine REPAIR PARTS, *NAME OF ITEM n_ed Parts Distribution are not Center stocked ALWAYS be shown GIVE THE *PART DESCRIPTION on your nomenclature plate on the back of _ocalty, your order FOLLOWING will INFORMATION: be electronically transmitted to a Sears for handling. SEARS CANADA S-385 will See page 3 for location. INC., TORONTO, ONT MSB 2B8 Printed in Taiwan Part No. 652800122 (_