Download Sears 385. 17928 Sewing Machine User Manual
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OWNER'S MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385. 17928 , _ •=:= = - ....... • ............ , .... == ............. SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear CustomeP: You have just invested in a very fine zigzag please pause for a moment and care for your Specific the Advice on the are given on threading, best sewing results machine. operation tension Before which using your contains adjustments, and avoid unnecessary and care of your Please remember, if you have questions the model and serial number sewing read this booklet new Kenmore instructions machine, on how to operate machine. instructions obtain and carefully number machine about when cleaning, service expense is always available your machine oiling, etc. for conditions at your or need parts This will beyond nearest Kenmore Sewing Machine Record in number of this are located space provided appliance. below the The model on the nomenclature plate, model number number and serial and serial number as identified on Page 4 of this booklet. Model No. 385. Retain these numbers Serial for future No. reference. THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, Sears Retail and service, you inquire. LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE. help you our control. always Store. mention IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Your sewing machine Read all instruction is designed before and constructed using this sewing 4. Never only for HOUSEHOLD use. machine. 1. An appliance unplug 2. Always never appliance from be left unattended ,the electric outlet immediately in. Always after 7. Do not unplug relamping. for appliance Replace bulb with same type Do not reach the that has fallen where it can fall into water. 4. Do not place or sink. or store appliance Do not place in or drop into water or be pulled or other into a tub or injury 1. the risk of burns, fire, Do not allow electric is necessary when this only attachments for its intended recommended use as described by the manufacturer in this manual. as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate working water. center (spray) products from 13. Do not pull the needle all are being used or where ("O") position, then this properly, Return appliance if it has a damaged if it has been the appliance for examination, repair, dropped to the nearest electrical cord or damaged, authorized or mechanical or plug, if it is not or dropped dealer into or service adjustment. remove To unplug, moving parts. grasp the plug, Special care not the is required needle. needle or push fabric while plate. The wrong plate can cause the any adjustment in stitching. the needle causing it to break. sewing area, machine such bobbin, or changing Always unplug removing mentioned to the off on cord. machine needles. shock, Keep free from the off ('0") as threading presser foot, sewing when needle, making changing needle, threading and the like. machine covers, lubricating, or when in the instruction manual. from the making electrical outlet any adjustments other is used by or near children. Use this appliance Use only Close attention away the sewing Do not use bent the aerosol by pulling fingers Switch blocked. controller into any opening. all controls 12. 15. to be used as a toy. unplug It may deflect to persons. appliance 2. reduce turn proper liquid. opening and foot outlet. Always use the needle to break. i4. WAR N IN G- where 11. Unplug immediately. Do not cord. Keep air is being administered. To disconnect, around rated 15 Watts. 3. 9. 10. before operate any machine dust, and loose cloth. Do not use outdoors. using cleaning. of lint, 6. plug from plugged with of the sewing Never drop or insert any object shock: when appliance 5. 8. the risk of electric should this and before ,o.uo0 the openings accumulation oxygen DA NG ER- operate ventilation SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS when TABLE SECTION 1. KNOW THE 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE 3 3_4 5 FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine ........................ 6_10 • Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... 6 • Foot Control Use .......................... 6 • Set the Pressure Dial ........................ 7 • Adjust the Presser Foot Lever .................. 8 • Thread Cutter ............................ 8 • Accessory Strage Box ....................... 9 • Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table ........................ 9_10 Know What the Presser Feet Will Do ............ 11_14 • Check the Presser Foot ..................... 11 • Change the Presser Foot ..................... 11 • Presser Foot Types ...................... 12_14 Choose the Needle and Thread ................ 14_15 • Check the Needle ......................... 14 • Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ..... 15 • To Change the Needle ...................... 15 Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 16_18 • To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine ......... 16 • Horizontal Spool Pin ....................... 16 • Additional Spool Pin ....................... 16 • Bobbin W.nd.._g .......................... 17 • Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder ......... 18 Prepare the Top Thread ..................... 19_22 • Thread the Needle ........................ 19 • Pick Up the Bobbin Thread .................. 20 • Adjust the Top Thread Tension .............. 21_22 Stitch Selector ............................. 23 Stitch Width Control ......................... 24 Stitch Length Control ........................ 24 Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................. 24 Reverse Stitch Control ........................ 25 Starting To Sew ............................ 25 SECTION 3. LEARN • Darning ............................... Zigzag Stitches ........................... • Basic Zigzag ............................. • Monogramming .......................... • Satin Stitch ............................. • Applique ............................... • Bar Tacking ............................. • Embroidery ............................. • Sewa Button ............................ • Overcasting Stitch ......................... • Blind Hemming .......................... • LaceWork .............................. • Three-Step Zigzag ......................... • Shell Stitching ........................... • Box Stitching ............................ • Fagoting Stitch .......................... • Two-Point Shell Stitching .................... • Two-Point Box Stitch ...................... • Overedging Stitch ......................... • Decorative with Geometic Patterns ............. Stretch Stitches .......................... • Straight Stretch .......................... • Rick-Rack Stretch ........................ • Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... • Smocking .............................. • Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ • Elastic Stretch Stitch ....................... • Stretch Patching .......................... • Herring Bone Stretch ....................... • Decorative Stretch Patterns .................. Buttonhole Making ........................ • Learning to Sew Buttonholes ................. • Built-in System ........................ • Using Buttonhole Attachment (Optional Item) Twin Needle Stitches (Optional Item) .............. MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Avialble .............. Locate and Identify the Parts .................. Identify the Accessories ........................ SECTION OF CONTENTS THE STITCHES Practical Stitch Chart ...................... Straight Stitches .......................... • Straight Stitches .......................... • Use the Seam Guides ....................... • Turn a Square Corner ...................... • Topstitching ............................ • Sew in a Zipper ........................ • Dropping the Feed Dogs .................... 26_30 31_35 31 31 31 32 33_34 35 SECTION SECTION 4. 5. PERFORMANCE PROBLESM CHART What to do When ......................... CARE FOR THE .... 35 36_48 36 36 37 38 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 45 46 46 47 47 48 49_53 49 49 50 50 51 51 52 52 53 54_60 54 55_56 57_60 61 62_63 MACHINE Replace the Light Bulb ....................... Clean the Bobbin Holder ...................... Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs .............. Oiling the Machine .......................... 64 64 65 65 PARTS LIST ...................................... 66_67 INDEX .......................................... 6B_69 A full nearest line of Sears sewing retail cabinets store or is available through at our your general Thread catalog. Another your option Kenmore . . . buy goes a Carrying anywhere, can Case be Spool Pin . . . then stored Bobbin any- Winding Spindle Width Control Length Control where. Stitch Top Thread Control Tension Stitch Face Cover Plate I I I J Thread Cutter Needle Plate Guide "_ Hook Cover Plate Base Extension (Accessory Hook Cover Plate Release Button Table storage box) Message Window Reverse Stitch Control ArmCover Plate Carrying Handle Thread Presser Foot Thumb Screw Presser Guide Needle Clamp Foot Hand Wheel Push-Pull Clutch 11 Stitch Selector Stretch Stitch Presser Foot Plug Co0nector Nomenclature Button J/ V Free Arm Adjuster Drop Light and Power Switch Snap-on Lever Feed Lever Plate Foot Control Bobbin Buttonhole Needle set opener Lint brush Small Large screw driver Zipper foot Small screw driver Straight stitch foot Additional spool pin Siiding buttonhole > foot Spool spool holder Large spool holder pin felt Satin stitch foot • Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Power supply plug • Foot Control Power / / Sewing light 4. Plug connector \ Push the light on the power Machine plug SAFETY Light and power switch and power and sewing Before inserting machine, be the sure plug the into to turn light. power switch is OFF. 1. Check Volt 2. 3. your outlet to be sure it is a 110to 120 AC outlet. Insert the outlet, as shown. foot To control wilt switch interrupted or light/power switch children. not operate is turned stop sewing, to unless the If you are on. turn prevent off the injury to To _Uli_ regulates plug into It will only supply the three-prong fit one way. plug into the outlet. the speed at you sew. increase speed, decrease gently press down with foot. speed, release your foot control is sensitive pres- _llylltly, NOTE: The foot will increase sewing machine Insert the power The which FEATURE: machine light/power control J switch the ball of your Your your Foot _1 J NOTE: Use or Practice on regulate your your decrease speed and your immediately. a scrap sewing taste and needs. of fabric to speed to Set the Pressure Dial Pressure control dial Set the dial aligning the setting 3 ..... most sewing 2 ..... applique 1 ..... sewing 0 ..... NOTE: mark and Cut-Out chiffon, on the dial with Also for velours and knits manual and embroidery The pressure the machine it. dial as follows. work lace, organdy darning the groove should and other (with lightweight be reset at 3 after is ready for most fabrics. more stretch). normal changing sewing the next pressure, so time you use Set Up the Machine (Continued) • Adjust the Presser Foot Lever ,Normal up position \ position x \ \ \ X _ I I | • J I F I I _-_ Thread Cutter jHigh P°siti°n _--I-----rt--'r_', _ \ _!_._._',?,. _ \ Normal up I_ "_t_" position _ _ \ Presser foot lever J You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish j The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot. You can raise it ahnut up position to help foot. !/4" higher than the normal for easy removal you place heavy of the presser foot fabrics under the or presser handy thread cutter. sewing. Just use the = Accessory Storage Box Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table Your sewing This feature To remove: machine can do free arm sewing. makes sewing easy for: f I To Remove the Extension (for free-arm J The lid of the open toward Sewing accessory storage box 2. are conveniently Grip the table with your toward you. index finger and thumb, !i:i!i ¸!! ¸ as shown. lifts you. accessories 1. Table sewing) Pull it gently The extension located table will snap out. * in the box. Bar tacking and To Attach: Extension (Accessory table storage made around box) Slot _. _,J To Attach the Extension (for flat-bed Table sewing) 1. Fit the tabs into the slot, 2. With your thumb as shown. and index finger, gently snap in. to reinforce waistlines garments on to the needle. pockets, plackets ready-made or home- avoid bunching fabric 4 .............. _E _J Stitching sleeves, or any circular 10 waistbands, garment area. pants legs, Darning socks or mending or areas of wear in children's knees, elbows, clothes. L Sewing etc. bu_ons on sleeves, wd _Lud d_, • Check the PresserFoot • The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. what each foot does in order to use them effectively. Your presser foot snaps on the foot is held in place by a Foot holder, If you need to remove which is seldom or attach the foot Holder. Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. Consult the Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions for sewing with the various You need to know Each presser foot presser feet. merely removed. holder, here is what you do: To Attach: To Remove: Change the Presser Foot To Snap Off: f f " _ Foot holder screw N. J the the Snap-on _"_T' t butt on I_ / To Remove: Turn Presser bar k__ screw machine. "_, To Snap Off the Presser Foot: To Attach: toward Use the the back large of 1. screw driver. the Match holder hole in the with the threaded foot 1. hole in the presser bar. 2. Fit the foot holder screw into the hole. 3. Tighten toward Raise the toward screw by turning bar to 2. Raise the presser foot. 3. Press the foot the needle will its highest position by turning the hand wheel you. snap-on drop button on the back of the foot holder. The presser off. it you. 11 • Change the Presser Foot (Continued) • PresserFoot Types Straight Zigzag Foot A: Foot % [ Zigzag foot H: Straight foot To Snap On f Use this foot for both straight and zigzag using center stitcing. Uses: Zigzag stitching Bar tacking Button 1. Place the presser foot zontal pin on under the groove the foot of lies just the foot holder. Lower 2. the presser lock the presser foot NOTE: you do presser If foot holder to in place. not hear the (see page 41), Lace work (see page 4_33), Three-step zigzag (see page 44), Two-point (see page 4_55), shell stitching (see page 466), Fagoting (see page 46), Two-point box stitch Overedging stitch Rick-rack stretch Smocking (see page 50), Elastic stretch (see page 4__9_9), (see page 5_11 ), Stretch patching press down on the presser foot holder firmly until you Herring bone stretch snap ill (see page 4_7), (see page 4__]7), place, hear the snap. 12 foot stitch Box stitching so the hori- (see page 3_6), (see page 3_88), sewing (see page 40), Overcast To Snap On the Presser Foot: Use this foot (see page 52), (see page 5_22). Uses: exclusively needle Straight stitching Topstitching for straight position (see page 311), (see page 33), Straigh t stretch stitching only. (see page 49). • Presser Foot Types (Continued) Sliding Buttonhole Foot I Use Sliding buttonhole foot I Foot I _ Satin Stitch Foot E: Zipper foot J this system. foot It buttonholes Uses: 1 :Zipper for buttonholes is marked to of built-in measure making foot your zipper. zipper accurately. Buttonhole your This (see page 55). Uses: can be set The and keep Zipper to sew edges the seam application on each of the foot side guide straight. (see page 34). of the Use this transparent foot for satin stitch and outlining applique. Uses: Darning (see page 3_2), Monogramming Satin stitch Applique (see page 3__88), Shell stitching Geometric (see page 3__66), (see page 3_7), (see page 4___55), decorative stitching (see page 4__88). 13 Choose _e Needle and Thread j Your choice of needle and thread In the needle case, you will find depends on the fabric the following color-coded Blue (1 1) ............ for stretch Orange for lightweight (11 ) .......... Red (14) Purple ............ (16) for topstitching needle thicker Green (18) .......... for and fabrics decorative has a topstitching larger thread hole for thread.) fabrics and decorative top- on these fabrics Check the Needle 1. Look 2. A damaged and silk-like for barbed or blunt point. needle can cause permanent fabrics. Always buy smooth and consistent 14 weight weight on these fabrics heavy weight stitching • fabrics or medium-heavy medium-heavy (This needles: fabrics for medium .......... you are sewing. a good quality thread. in thickness. It should snags or runs resist in knits, tangling fine silks and be strong, Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR FABRIC Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Or9andy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Suitings, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets, Leather 11-BLUE (STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE) Cire Tricot Knits, Jersey, Spandex, 50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A 14-RED or 16-PURPLE Stretch Double I 2 (12 stitches per inch) 2--2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch) Needle clamp, i 16-PURPLE 18-GREEN Tricot, Terry, Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A 14-RED Decorative top-stitching on all types of fabric Nylon Stretch RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING SIZE I 16-PURPLE !8 GREEN Fabric: THREAD 11-ORANGE Heavy Weight: Coatings, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas Polyester To Change the Needle Length Chart I 50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy-Duty Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A 2--3 (8-10 stitches per inch) Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A 3 (8 stitches per inch) Buttonhole Twist (Use thread as top Polyester only) Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton 2--2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch) / Flat side away from you NOTE: Raise the tion 3--4 (6-8 stitches per inch ) f screw by needle turning bar to the its highest posi- hand wheel toward screw by turning you. 1. 2. 3. Loosen the toward you. Remove Insert with needle clamp the needle by pulling the new needle into the flat side away from it downward. the Push the needle up as far as it will 5. Tighten the needle screwdriver clamp from needle go. screw firmly your clamp you. 4. large it accessory with the storage box. 15 • To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine • Horizontal • Spool Pin Additional Spool Pin [ Ordinary Spool [ (_) Remove sliding Small Spool the the release button cover hook Plate cover by (_ Take out the bobbin. plate to the right. I I J Tilt up the spool pin. spool Place the spool thread on the pin with coming off the spool as shown. of the thread The additional extra bobbins To use, insert The narrow 16 small spool holder pin without is used to unthreading wind the machine. Attach the large spool holder firmly against the thread spool. • spool pressing it is used or small thread spools. with hole. the additional spool Place the felt and the spool pin in the on the pin. • Bobbin Winding f f Additional I Pull the clutch Spool Pin (_ Horizontal Spool Pin I knob away from Draw the thread from around (_) Insert the thread through _j Put the bobbin (_ ® (_) (_ the bobbin the free end of the thread Stop the machine when Depress the foot control the thread as shown. bobbin Push in the clutch The machine will thread winding spindle, held in your again. from the inside to the outside. and push it to the right. hand, depress When the bobbin to its original guide. threading it has made a few turns, winder knobto winder the hole in the bobbin, on the bobbin Return to disengage clutch. the spool. Guide the thread (_) With the machine position the foot and cut the thread is fully wound, by moving control. close to the hole in the bobbin. it will stop the spindle automatically. to the left, and cut the engage clutch. not sew until the clutch knob is pushed in. F 17 • Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder / J 1. Put the holder bobbin so that counter-clockwise 18 into the the thread (left). bobbin feeds 2. J Pull about toward slot _. you 4 inches through of the thread tension 3. Then pull the toward the back through the slot thread of (_) the . clockwise machine 4. Pull out about and attach 1 5 cm (6") the hook of thread cover plate. Prepare the Top Thread • Thread the Needle I 1 I Raise the take-up lever to its highest Raise the presser foot Place the spool The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations. Dotted lines show places loops and then is pulled tight. where the thread on the spool 1. Draw thread 2. While holding spring holder. into pin as shown, thread thread by turning the hand wheel toward draw thread with guide using both thread coming you. draw thread down up and through take-up lever from Firmly 4. Draw thread down 5. Thread then is slipped 6. Thread needle from and slip it through the thread into needle bar thread front from the back of the spool. hands. near spool, 3. NOTE: position lever. into the tension area and then around the check right to left. guide. guide. to back. Cut the end of the thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.: 19 Prepare the Top Thread (Continued) • 1. Pick Up the Bobbin Thread Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn. 20 2. Bring bobbin top thread, thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 4 to 6 inches of thread clear. • Adjust the Top Thread Tension III Top side_f Choose the Correct The best tension fabric Setting mark ideal If you on; and thickness of fabric of the fabric layers the type of stitch The top thread is too tight The top thread is too loose, obbin thread fabric, depend the number Tighten The will : the stiffness Topthread For Straight Tension Top side of fabric o taS e '1 Stitch straight as shown look stitch at the gaps, that each stitch When adjusting will have threads locked above, magnified stitch, front is smooth top thread between the two layers of The top thread appears on the underside of the fabric. to show detail. and back, you will notice that there are no The bobbin thread appears on the upper surface of the fabric. and even. tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top th read. Tension The bottom top is too loose: thread shows of the fabric. of the stitch will Tension through the The The bottom side the feel bumpy. is too tight: bobbin top the stitch thread will of the fabric. will come through The top side of feel bumpy. 21 For Zigzag Stitch In the correct zigzag stitch, of the fabric and below for the tension. top correct the bobbin threads will appearance. threads show slightly To match Top tension Top tension Too Tight Too Loose Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric not show on the top on the bottom this appearance, Top side of Fabric Bottom will side of Fabric adjust side side. the See top Just Right Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Too Tight: Too Loose: Just Right: -- -- The top thread will loop through bottom side of fabric and will be pulled almost together. Minimize the amount of top thread visible on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side. Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing conditions. 22 Corner of each zigzag will pull together on the top side of fabrics. Guide messagewindow .Stitch selector Red indicator ,. J The stitch Simply selector turn The bottom Suitable this cunbul control determines until row of stitches width, stitch When you select the desired stitch is selected when length and foot the desired the stitch stitch you select. is indicated the stitch are shown by turning by the red indicator length control on the stitch is set at the stretch stitch indicator panel. position. in the guide message window. the stitch selector, the information in the window will change automatically. Please use the eolour NOTE: To avoid in the guide window needle or fabric damage, which corresponds be sure your to the colour of the stitch needle is up and out of fabric you select. when selecting a stitch. 23 _9 \ I + Stretch Stitch k.. , j The stitch width control of the stitch you select. The higher the number, regulates the width k. j The stitch length of stitch, the wider the stitch. control regulates and also has a stretch The higher the number, the length stitch the longer setting. In stretch 4- twin ]_ " is the maximum width the stitch. zone hole stitches. is adjustable To area for select the Stretch at Stretch Stitches, set • or When if you select or (blue), Study blue built-in make set the "Stretch sure stitch Stitch". the stitches the slightly Smocking stretch buttonhole that you length If do not control the at green, brown around this design are recommended length zones the stitches indicator and are color-coded of pictured panel. on the to stitch to stitch in a neutral "+" and "-" some fabrics, adjust this you control for appearance to sake. stretch seems open the toward left, "-" like adjust until the the illust- control it looks like the design. the design right appears hand toward you desire. and control. Rickrack stitch center control red, sections These decorative to the stitches rations button NOTE: be between When sewing need the stretch this Stitch. (green) 24 position balance control The blue usually may for needle stitches. sewing, should position. 0 means no feed. The " stitch adjuster to be closed illustrations, "+" until turn stitching as in the is as Now you Reverse that you are familiar are ready to start each time you sit down 1. Inspect for 2. the with It should and thread fabrics made of synthetic Before placing the your on your machine and with new Kenmore sewing be straight, properly set and sharp the accessories machine. Below provided for the machine, are some good habits to follow to sew: needle. the fabric the controls to sew with being used. blends material Do not be afraid tend to dull on the the needles more machine, inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on the point. to change see that on to threads the your easily ends of during It should be the correct needle frequently. Many than fabrics made of natural the have been drawn threads the sewing size of the new fibers. about of the first 3 or 4 stitches 4 of the seam. 3. To reverse stitch, trol during hold down Release to sew forward this con4. sewing. Test the stitch the machine Fabric should the again. machine Adjust right on a scrap of the fabric for the length be placed edge of the under material of stitch the presser foot placed you and tension with on the 5/8" plan to use. suitable The fabric should be double thickness. to the fabric. the bulk of the seam marking material to the left of the needle and on the needle plate when making a simple seam. 5. Run the machine machine will at a s!ow even speed. 6. Fasten each seam by back tacking 7. Always 8. Guide finish When turning pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the sewing a few stitches in reverse. sewing each seam with the fabric that the normal 9. The more sew. gently feeding with your the needle at its highest hand in front point. of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way is altered. the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you. 25 Stitch Stitch Selection STRAIGHT I I I I I I t Foot and Other Attach. Straight Zigzag I I I I Needle Check Chart Thread Tension Stitch Length Stitch Width Uses Refer to Page 2_6 Red Zone Regular darning, Use on knits and other stretch for topstitching. seams, zippers, etc. topstitching, quilting 31 good 49 on p. 15 Zipper foot i J STRAIGHT STRETCH Zigzag Check Chart on p. 15 2_6 Brown Stretch Stitch Position Zigzag Check Chart on p. 1_55 3_8 Red Zone 1~5 Finish edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique, monogram, embroidery, sewing bar tacks. Zigzag Check Chart onp. 15 2_6 Brown Stretch Stitch Position 2~5 Decorate Zigzag Check Chart 2_6 Red Zone 2_3 Use for finishing Straight III III Ul Ul ZIGZAG or Satin or RICK-RACK STRETCH J BLIND HEM STITCH % 26 on p. 15 fabrics, garments with one row or several. seams and hemming. 36 49 42 Stitch Stitch Selection OVERCAST STRETCH Foot and Other Attach. Zigzag <:l, "--2, THREE-STEP ZIGZAG % Zigzag < o_ SMOCKING STITCH % Zigzag % /\/ \/\ /\/ Satin SHELL STITCH % SERGING Zigzag I ! 4 % Needle Thread Tension Stitch Length Stitch Width U ses Refer to Page Check Chart on p. 15 2_6 Brown Stretch Stitch Position Check Chart 2_6 0.5_1 Check Chart on p. !55 2_6 Brown Stretch Stitch Position 3N5 Use in smocking Check Chart 4_9 Red Zone 3_5 Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings. Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam. Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie. 45 3-6 Brown Stretch Stitch Position 3_5 Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings. Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam. Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie. 51 3_5 Use for swimwear, ski pants and other garments that require stretch. Use for finishing Use for mending. 41 44 seams. on p. 15 on p. 1,5 Blue (11) on p. 155 or as a decorative stitch. 5O 27 St hox.% Foot and Other Attach. Zigzag STITCHING ELASTIC STR ETCH Zigzag N r_J r_J FAGOTING Zigzag L r" STRETCH PATCHING % ;) % Zigzag % TWO-POINT SHELL STITCHING L > > 28 Zigzag % Needle Check Chart Thread Tension Stitch Length Stitch Width Uses 3_8 Red Zone 3N5 Use for overlapping Check Chart on p. 1_55 3_6 Brown Stretch Stitch Position 3_5 Use for applying Check Chart 3_8 0.5_2 2~6 Brown Stretch Stitch Position 3_8 Red Zone Refer seams. to Page 45 on p. 1.55 51 elastic. Join two folded edges for decorative open-work appearance. 46 Use for patchwork and patching. 52 Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie. This stitch can also be used as a single overlock stitch. 46 on p. 15 Check Chart on p. 1.55 Check Chart on p. 1._55 3_5 quilting t Stitch Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach. HERRING BONE STRETCH Zigzag \ Stitch Width Refer to Page Uses 52 Brown Stretch Stitch Position 3~5 Use as hemming and draperies. Check Chart on p. 15 3~8 Red Zone 3_5 Use Check Chart on p. 15 3_8 Red Zone 3~5 Use for overedging. 47 Check Chart 3~8 Green Zone 3_5 Decorate garments with one row or several, one stitch or a combination. 48 2_6 Brown Stretch Stitch Position 3_5 Use in smocking 53 stitch for blankets, tablecloth I TWO-POINT BOX STITCH L_ Zigzag L_ L Stitch Length 2-6 Check Chart on p. 1_55 X C Thread Tension Needle C:) C r.._ % for overlapping 47 seams. rOVEREDGE STITCH Zigzag A %.% DECORATIVE GEOMETRICS Satin % STRETCH STITCH DECORATIVE Zigzag % on p. 15 Check Chart on p. 1_55 or as a decorative stitch. 29 Stitch Stitch Selection Foot BUTTONHOLE and Other Attach. Sliding buttonhole Ei Needle Check Chart on p. 1.55 Thread Tension 2~6 Stitch Length Blue Zone Stitch Width Blue Zone Uses Buttonholes: Refer to Page also corded buttonholes. 55 1,1 _._ Buttonhole Check Chart attachment on p. 15 2_6 Round end buttonholes buttonholes. and keyhole 57 > TWIN NEEDLE STITCHES Zigzag Twin Needle 3_7 Brown Stretch Stitch Posi ti on or 61 Use for applique work, also as a decorative finish for placemats, blankets, collars, cuffs and pockets. 37 Use for sewing parallel rows of straight decorative stitches adding an exquisite touch to table linen and clothing. or :i SATIN STITCH % Satin G reen Zone Check Chart on p. 1._.55 3O 3_8 0.5_1 2~5 • Straight Use the Seam Guides Stitch ! Stitch width control 0 I _t the Machine LU Cornering guide The Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control red zone Before sewing with foot, always set control to 0 to the straight stitch the width stitch avoid breaking °it,It ))' Stretch 7. At the beginning and seam, you may want lock the stitch. the end of the to reverse to width. 1. Raise the presser foot. 2. Raise the needle to its highest 8. Raise the presser the fabric. 9. Cut the threads. foot 3. Place to the edge a stitching needle Best sewing results with stitch foot, foot will the but the also acceptable resu Its. and 7/8" are straight of the guide plate fabric line (5/8" plate seam apart, with a Square Corner Turn gu ide /C°rn°ri°ol 2 : next on is needle lines marked. position. Stitch H: Straight foot obtained on the to help you measure and remove :1 NOTE: guides The lines are 1/8" the 5/8" • needle. A: Zigzag foot seam are engraved the most common). 4. zigzag Draw the and lower J threads toward the back the presser foot. To turn fabric a square corner 5/8" from the edge: provide 5. 6. Press the foot Hold the fabric guide that it along control. 1. loosely the and gently guide line, so it feeds naturally. Stop stitching by turning toward you when facing you cornering Do not pull it tight. force the fabric or try to 2. Raise the Lower stitching lower hand the fabric lines up with the wheel edge the gu ide, as shown. the fabric the 5/8" 3. and needle presser foot to the edge with foot and begin line and turn seam guide. the presser in the new direction. 31 • Dropping the Feed Dogs Darning Set the Machine Stitch width control 0 o 1 1 213 4 Illll_ Top thread tension control 2 to6 4_11 Stitch length control any number (not necessary to adjust) feed lever is located Drop the feed dogs. 2. Stretch °// II ;;' Ill k The drop 1 3. underneath the free arm bed on the back side of the machine. Lower the * raise the feed dogs, push lever in the direction of the arrow as illustrated. Then turn the handwheel. Feed dogs must for normal always GF (_) For push dropping the the feed lever in the 4. of the arrow 5. dial: 0 Drop feed lever Move the fabric Turn the fabric layer of stitching and sew a_ a siow bzick and forth the darning slowly until area. 1/4 turn and over the first sew another layer. as illustrated. NOTE: If your fabric is thin or badly use a separate piece of fabric hole to reinforce it. be up damaged under the sewing. 6. 32 bar as shown. ressure dogs, direction the hole in the center hoops, presser you have covered To the with embroidery speed. Stretch Stitch F: Satin stitch foot the fabric between When you finish dial to 3. darning, return the pressure • Topstitching Set the Machine Stitch width control f 1 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 0 213 4 Stitch length control red Here's How zone 1. 2. Lower Keep to I A: Zigzag foot ! Stretch Stitch L The Stitch edge of right edge the fabric of the next presser 3. Guide the fabric edge to topstitching produce 5/8" evenly along this an even row from of the edge. and Its Uses Topstitching your the the foot. 1 _,. H: Straight foot the presser foot. emphasizes garment and keeps the lines seams of and edges flat and crisp. Accent two outer suits rows of or blouses topstitching edges of cuffs, with one around or the lapels or collars. 33 • Sew in a Zipper ] Set the Machine Put the top sides of the fabric Stitch width control 0 together and sew to the end of the zipper Fabric Preparation: opening. Use the reverse to lock the 1 stitches. Sew length the zipper at "4" opening and with top thread / Z ipp'er Zipper teeth 2|3_4 tape 1 LU stitch tension at "3". Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 2 To Sew: 4. End of opening 1. \\ Reset thread Fold stitch length at 2 and tension at 2 to 6. top 5. back the left seam allowance J foot 2. Turn 3. ance to form a 1/8" fold. Place the zipper teeth next under the right seam allow- To attach the zipper foot: fold Lower foot to the 7. " _ The pin on the _'_'_'_'_'_'_'_'__ I_1 left hand side _ 34 _"_ • attach the presser bar to the right pins To sewzipper on thefoot. left side of the zipper, on the right hand side_J in°nthe L _'Thep I_ ,,1.,,_ ,,i,,_l_ • To sew on the right side of the zipper, attach the presser bar to the left pins on the zipper foot. bottom Sew the Lower of on the top the the needle pierces tape. slider and pin in place. zipper and the zipper fabric I__._ the at the zipper J 1/8" foot. so that 6. E: Zipper Top edge of fabric the presser bar to the right pins on the zipper side as shown. Stretch Stitch Attach through fold tape to the point zipper the fold and the where the begins. the needle to hold and raise the presser foot. the / J of Topfabric side of fabric To side "_ Top side of fabric of fabric "_'_ "'-" J 8. Open thezipper. 9. Lowerthepresser footandstitch therestoftheseam. 10. Close fabric the zipper top side up. and turn the Remove attach the the zipper presser pins on the zipper 12. Stitch tom across foot bar to and the left foot. and below the bot- the corner and continue to guide the teeth, as shown. Stitch zipper foot through the the fabric zipper and 2" from the top of the Lower the needle into the fabric and raise the presser foot. 16. along Stop about zipper. 15. of the zippel. 13. Turn 14. Remove the basting stitches and stitch the open the zipper. 17. Lower the foot rest of the seam. fold and Make sure the is even. tape. 35 • Basic Zigzag Monogramming Stitch width Stitch width control 1 to 5 Set the Machine o Y Top tnread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control red zone Top thread tension control 2 to 6 J J 2 Here's IL))' There s Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 l! \ Here's How How are many ways 1. to sew a zigzag stitch. 2. Consult detailed Stretch Stitch the specific Applique Embroidery Button The zigzag common your ing. It can trims, buttons, also be most stitches buttonholes, mending appliques or as a decorative the It can be a utility overcasting, with 36 is one of and most versatile machine. for sewing ming, stitch on stitch hem- and darn- used to decorate and cut-out stitch. work Stitch r page 3__88, page 3__66, 3. Satin stitch foot page 4___00, page 41. the fabric with paper or Draw the letters on the fabric the stitch wtu, t_,=u, _ chalk. 4. Satin stitch, width as necessary adjusting to form each pattern. page 3__99, Sewing Overcasting F: Back interfacing. Work page 3_88, Monogramming and Its Uses Stretch page 3_7, Bar Tacking The Stitch for directions. Satin Stitch A: Zigzag foot variations Set the same as satin stitch. 5. If using when paper, carefully you have finished remove sewing. it Satin Stitch Set the Machine Zigzag width: Stitch width control 1 2 to Close to 0 5 2|3_4 I I ) 2 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length: Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 3 > > > L Stretch / Stitch / / / / F: Satin stitch foot L _iii¸ Pressure dial 1 The Stitch and Its Uses The Satin stitch is a versatile used decorative stitch, be used to overcast ) ample, blankets, and often stitch Here's How but it can also a raw edge (for exlinens, tablecloths Once your the fabric weight and napkins). The Satin _, •_...... SI ,, I 1 or2 is especially machine is set up to stitch, you are planning to use. you may want Too tight a satin to experiment stitch may pucker on a scrap of some light- fabrics. attractive in applique. 37 Zigzag Stitches (Continued) • Applique • Bar Tacking f Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 5 I Stitch width control 2 to 5 213 4 I" ! _22 _ 3_4 I Top thread tension control 2 _o 6 Stitch length 0.5 _o 1 control Baste (or joiner) applique Stitch Stretch F: Satin stitch foot Stltch & Pressure dial: 38 Top thread tension control 2 [o 6 / fuse around sure the arlna n{ tha I with iron-on fabric This stitch on the fabric. satin stitch making points of pockets and straps on lingerie. falls applique along the outer annllnlla Stretch t 2 I When sewing l Stitch length control 0_5 to 1 pieces the needle 1 corners, lower the needle presser foot and pivot the fabric to the down fabric, Raise the right or into left. the A: Zigzag foot Stitch is similar and strain to a very is used to such short reinforce as corners Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches. or Embroidery Set the Machine Stitch width controL 1 to 5 % Top thread tension control 2 to 6 t 7_13_4 Stitch length control Any number (not necessary to adjust) Here's How 1. Drop the feed dogs (see page 32). 2. Remove foot holder 3. Adjust the stitch (see page 24). No presser foot Stretch Drop feed lever Stitch 4. Draw the design tailor's chalk. (see page 11). width as desired on to the fabric with 5. Stretch the fabric between embroidery hoops and place under the needle. 6. Lower the presser engaged the top thread 7. Holding the hand, rotate top the foot lever tension. to thread in your left hand wheel toward you one complete turn. Pull the top thread to draw the bobbin thread through to the surface of the fabric. 8. Using a medium speed, stitch along the marked outline, guiding the fabric carefully by hand. 9. When finished embrodiering, feed dogs (see page 32). raise the 39 Sew a Button f Set the Machine Stitch width control / / Must be adjusted t 213 4 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control Any number (not necessary to adjust) 0L\ ))" Stretch A: l, 4O / J \ x. j Drop the feed dogs (see page 32). To 1. threads Match foot. the center 2. Adjust the stitch 3. Lower the foot Stitch Zigzag foot Turn of the button holes to the center of the slot on the presser strengthen needle in the the width to hold hand wheel so that needle will drop the button in each hole. in place. by hand _v_ that needle ,,,:it,,,,, enter either the leaving thread button a 8" shank, tail. cut the Bring the down through the hole and wind it around the shank. Draw the ,,o,__" _ v,_ *_'_,,_ and knot. thread to the bottom side feed dogs button. Drop feed lever -_ When 4. Stitch several times. finished, (see page 32). raise the ] Overcasting Stitch f Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 O_ Top thread tension control 3 to 8 213 4 _ "5 Stitch length control red zone Helpful Start Hints overcasting raw corner right Stretch up Stitch about of your 1/8" seam. inside the If you start at the edge, the fabric and the stitches wi!! will bunch become tangled. A: Zigzag foot ,) The Stitch This and Its Uses zigzag variation garment is very construction raw edges of any sewing and useful in in finishing project. 41 • Blind Hemming f Set the Machine Stitch width control 1/4"' 2 to 3 l Light Weight Fabric Top thread tension control 2 to 6 1/4" Stitch length control red zone Heavy Weight Fabric k. I Stretch Stitch J 1. Finsih 2. Measure, NOTF: / the raw edge of your hem any way you desire turn For up your Fold the material 4. Place garment page 41). hem and pin. ight _,,_ nht f_k_i,,_ 3. (see overcasting (bottom J ,,_,,, may need a ,,ou_,,_ fold. side out) on the edge to be stitched, as shown, leaving 1/4" of the finished hem edge showing. A: Zigzag foot zigzag stitch 5. 42 After under should hemming, presser foot just catch press both in such a manner the fold that narrow zigzag stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The wide of the garment. sides of the fin ished hem. The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches. LaceWork 1 Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 3 t 213 4 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 t" Stretch Stitch JJ_ Lace A: Zigzag foot to i/ adds a fanciful, blouses feminine and lingerie. and pillows become when trimmed with Turn raw edge of fabric 5/8". more using blind Trim excess fabric linens elegant lace. under Place lace underneath stitch touch Table at least and top- hem stitch. close to stitching. 43 • Three-Step Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 1 213 • Top thread tension control 2 to 6 I Stitch length 0.5 to 1 control Seam Finishing (Overcasting) Place the fabric so that the right Guide Stretch Stitch A: and Its Uses The three-step zigzag and use the three-step would use the It has more flatter zigzag is a combination straight strength, khan a regular The three-step stitch. zigzag You may everywhere basic zigzag stitch. elasticity, and is zigzag. zigzag stitch is especial- ly useful for: - mending - sewing patches smoothly securely - repairing - finishing 44 straight seams tears and the edge will hand the stitches fall .1 Zigzag foot The Stitch you [ under Mending the presser foot be slightly inside side of the presser foot. work so sthe right-hand at the edge of the fabirc. Position that the tear under the stitching will the catch needle so both sides. • Shell Stitching • Set the Machine _ r- Box Stitching Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Stitch width control 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 4 to 9 j/ Stitch length control red zone Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Here's How Stitch length control red zone 2 1. For best effect: h1_3 J Use this stitch to join heavy weight interlining. - set the stitch - F: -- Overlap you may need to tighten use this stitch allow clear Satin stitch foot fabric 2. The Stitch The Shell and Its Uses Stitch hem over folded rows of shell stitching stitching can tension the when by sewing fabric. a Several are called You to • Stretch just two raw edges together and to join them. _ Stitch edge of the A: Zigzag foot it zigzags. sew rows of shell stitches, can sew Shell soft silky the slightly. needle the folded space the rows 5/8" is formed blind If you as you desire. top thread Stretch Stitch length wovens Stitch apart. on knits or in any direction. shell tucks. Shell be used to finish hems, sleeve and neck openings. Shell tucking scalloped can tucks be used on to blouses create and lingerie. 45 Fagoting Stitch Two-point Shell Stitch Set the Machine Set Stitch width control 5 the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 o I Top thread tension control 3 to 8 "Fop thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch len_lth control 0.5 to 2 J 2 Stitch length control red zone Here's How 1. 'Fold under Stretch Pin the tear-away Stitch 3. Sew so the t each fabric The Stitch Use this fabric stitch appearance 46 and Its Uses to two edges backing slowly, edge 5/8" needtu to create join two an and add design pieces open interest. of work to 1/8" paper or apart° guiding the fabric catches the folded edge on each side. A: Zigzag foot stitch single overlock and press. 2. This Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot can also stitch. be used as a Overedging Stitch Two-point Box Stitch Set the Machine Set the Machine I 213 o_ I Top thread tension control 3 to 8 't 213 4 II!ii | Stitch width control 3 to 5 Stitch width control 3 to 5 4 I Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control red This stitch useful to join I Stitch length control red This elastic stitch to prevent fabrics. can be used as a seam finish fraging. o._, Stretch A: Zigzag foot Stitch I Stretch A: Zigzag foot Stitch ! J 47 Decorate with Geometric Patterns Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 I l Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control green zone 2 Here's How 1. Adjust the stitch width and length as you desire. 2. F: Satin stitch foot The Stitches and Their Uses These stitches You Stretch Stitch are purely can sew one row decorative. or several or vary the stitch width and length special effects. Experiment 48 on a scrap of fabric to see what special effects are possible. 3. Practice the stitch lines on a scrap of fabric. Mark the fabric, using for decoration 4. Lower the needle at the starting 5. Lower the presser foot. 6. Gently maked guide line. a washable fabric on the marker. point. for the fabric along the • Rick-Rack Straight Stretch f Stretch Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 5 Stitch width control 0 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position j/ Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position The Stitch and Its Uses Sew on stretch you might oL/,/))" J A: Zigzag foot Stretch Stitch The stretch stitch does Stretch Stitch sewn, The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch tion of is the the especially and stretch stitching fabrics be used as well. seams garments that will of strain variastitch, for knits Stretch on other It works well on curved deal stretch fabrics. can and but forward straight developed stretch on is and (sometimes action" give when instead of the in back so breaking. can be used as a decorative _e _^l_ll t Zigzag foot a motion a "reverse- that fabric et;t_h is being stitched called stitch), can also as it tnn in any area that not A: actually H: Straight foot This stitch fabrics use a zigzag stitch. it will stretches This stitch be used for topstitching on all fabrics. any receive a great (ex: children's clothes). 49 • Overcast Stretch Stitching • Smocking Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 1 2|3 Stitch width control 3 to 5 //// 4 le Of Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position Here's How Place the the LEFT Stitch iiict Stretch Stitch of the fabric to of the needle as shown. t_f th= I"liitclrll_l Or, place your then =irlr'l_ fabric trim to allow seam a 5!8" A: Zigzag Raw or worn edges of older garments The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch seam with can finish. is formed and seam one operation. you are making other be used for an overcast The and can sewing a in It can be used when swimwear, garments be that ski pants require overcast to prevent further foot Stitch ! J % With the straight stitch length stitching at lines "4", sew 3/8" apart across the area to be smocked. raveling. NOTE: finished Stretch allowance after. Zigzag foot °it//))' so the needle pierces the fabric _hnrt seam, A: raw edge Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position Use a blue stretch needle, which prevents skipped fabric effectively stitches. Knot the the threads bobbin gathers the evenly. other stitch along threads Secure end. between one edge. and distribute Sew the the the threads the gathering Pull out the gathering Pull at decorative stitches. stitches. stretch. NOTE: Loosen tension easier. 5O the to top make thread gathering • Elastic Stretch Stitch Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ! Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Stitch width control 3 to 5 3_4 Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch length' control brown stretch stitch position Here's How Place foot o ! the fabric so that L NOTE: J Use stitch narrow this when seam that you you open flat. It is ideal seams on knits or want woven a narrow for sewing on swim a need to for medium fabrics seam. spandex want do not press heavyweight presser are made When using fabric, use a blue fabric 1/4" stretch needle effectively skipped and Its Uses the stitches over the edge. Stretch Stitch The Stitch under the Stitch length control brown stretch stitch positi on o_ knit Stretch stretch which A: Zigzag Stitch foot prevents stitches. Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments. 1. Mark the elastic into quarters and to match these where you center back and side seams. Place the middle of the elastic under the center of the presser into place, making It is also great wear. 2. to foot and stitch sure the elastic the center is evenly front, distri- buted. 51 • Stretch Patching ,! S Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 O_ ---J 3_4..5 _ Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Herring Bone Stretch -- Set the Mac---_--_-'hine Stitch I_ control I _ I iiI • For Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position J The Stitch and Its Uses patching worn 3 to 5 1 213 ,4 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length, control brown stretch stitch position width out elbows Here's How Place the fabric top side up, and sew 3/8" from the edge. or knees. 01 For patchwork quilting. Trim Stretch Stretch A: Zigzag foot Stitch I A: The Use Zigzag foot Stitch as hemming tableclothes 52 and and Its Uses stitch draperies. for to stitching. The stitch will t Stitch [ ) close blankets, Decorative Stretch Patterns ! Set the Machine Stitch width control 3to5 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 The Stitch Decorative touch Stitch length control brown stretch stitch IJUUI_IU4= 2 and Its Uses stretch You can decorate A: Zigzag patterns can be used for adding to the items you sew for your children's clothes, home creative and personalised and family. women's blouses, curtains, etc. foot h)._3 Stretch Stitch 53 • Learning to Sew Buttonholes With your Kenmore sewing machine you have two methods of making buttonholes. You may use the built-in system or you may use the optional snap-in automatic buttonhols attachment system. Tips on buttonholing Always use. Always Choose the buttonhole Built-in Tissue (rectangular). Choose this style for waistband, one or two cuffs, belt slots or where you will paper For heavier buttons. #3t UULLUIIIIUI_ Round Choose _LLU_IIIII_IIL _Ul-/_,VI,Ul end buttonholes this style |_ (Template .... No. 213504005, for series of buttonholes 213505006). on dresses, b!ouses, vests, jackets or coats. Keyhole Choose buttonholes this need more Note: for button See page 67 for ordering Attachment. 54 (Template style for tailored room buttonhole with use an interfacing stitching, need only a practice on a scrap of fabric the button you will in area of garment you plan to use. where buttonholes are placed. style bottonholes make Try the buttonhole No. 213506007). vests, jackets, coats or any time you shank. information of optional Buttonhole or regular interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after if it is used. weight fabrics, loosen your top thread tension slightly. • Built-in System Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 . 1 213-4 ! I I Stitch length control Blue zone _ i 1. a. Carefully length b. Top thread on your the buttonhole control 2 to 6 Stretch Stitch I c. Change to the sliding foot a, buttonhole b. Insert the garment under the foot with, the b utto nhnl_ mark......... ing running Sfading buttonhole 2. garment. foot. tension __3_ mark toward you. c. Density 2. For less density, toward "1". For more density, toward "0". NOTE: Always tonhole turn turn 3. a. b. Line up foot with the (A) toward markings the top mark Lower the the on Sew forward front hole. the on your Set the stitch selector c. until marking Stop sewing of at _ . you reach the your button- at the left stitch. the presser foot. The markings are engraved Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes, you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length dial. 1. the slider } J the Stitch you so that the top mark (C) on the slider meets the start mark (B). garment. NOTE: Adjusting Move dial dial make a practice buton a scrap fabric you plan to use to find the more suitable stretch length. on the slider in centimeters. @ Coarse stitches for heavy fabrics @ Fine stitches for light fabrics Stretch Stitch 55 i 4. a. Set the stitch selector b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. C. Stop sewing at _ 5. a. . b. at the right Set the stitch Sew until selector at _ you reach the back of C. Stop sewing Sew 4 to 6 stitches, C, Stop sewing at the left stitch. at iLu_u_, _y,_L _u LL._ ,. d. Raise the presser foot, both NOTE: sliding at the edge of fabric, buttonhole foot and sew in reverse ( [_ set ). J 56 and draw away from needle you. and Cut bobbin leaving about 10 cm (4") thread ends. the thread to pulling Then, as illustrared [_]-->_]-_] the box. threads by sewing Remove hole b. the fabric When 7. opener the buttonhole. stitch. m U " Set the stitch selector at . knot Draw wrong side the bobbin the threads. needle of fabric thread. the open fabric with in your the and cut the buttonhole accessory storage • Using Buttonhole Attachment (NOTE: The buttonhole Buttonhole For Attachment attachment up your buttonholes, and templates. machine attachement Buttonhole item.) Style and Size System more varied and accurate hole attachment is anoptional properly. Know You will you will enjoy using the parts and carefully need these items for the read how the Round End Buttonhole buttonto set Keyhole Buttonhole buttonhoie system. Guide slot I / Measurement Template marking 213504005 213505006 213506007 3/8" 1/2" 15/16" 7/8" 1-1/16" 5/8" 13/16" 1-1/4" 1-1/2" 1-1/16" Sizes Catch 1-1/4" 1-3/8" Buttonhole guide plate NOTE: Illustrations buttonhole length Guide block easily of bu'_tonhole to be sewn. by matching on You will the template find button show actual the most suitable with the proper length of buttonhole illustration on the template. Buttonhole templates Lever Hook '/ "_Gear Base plate Buttonhole foot 57 Set the Machine (Optional Stitch width control 2 1 I 2_ Item) Pins (A) Lever 3.,,. 4 !>1 I 1 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 3 to 4 Base plate Hook Rectangular 0\\ j, 1. Stretch Stitch Buttonhole foot Helpful Hints Best results are #60 _ light #80 obtained by weight using threads as bobbin thread. NOTE: It 58 Remove b. Raise the needle to its highest c. Remove d. Pu II bobbin thread e. Insert hook of base plate f. Pull lever back to align the hook Snap base plate to two round the foot is advisable fabric sewing fabrics. knits to use a blue needle and You can obtain with a wider when synthetic buttonholes cutting space by the stitch width at 1.5 instead of 2. table. position. holder. out about down 3" straight into rectangular fit two with pins holes (B) on needle plate. Release lever. stretch setting control a. g. the extension hole back toward rear of machine. hole of needle plate. the rectangular (A) at the back hole. of base plate into (Optional (Optional Item) Item) guide plate Top thread plate !Buttonhole foot / Gear_lll ! tl!_Sl°t Guide s!ot / I Setting Guide \ Mark Starting point block / Gear Bobbin thread e plate J 2. a. When you have selected the template hole you need, slide the template b, c. Pull catch toward you while with sliding the template is at the setting Insert into into the center button- into the guide plate. hole size you have thorn gear of base plate the size and style slot until the 3. a. Attach b. Adjust button- position The lever c_ and fit guide block of foot. gear so it is aligned with the starting point of template. mark. of template the buttonhole C° of the guide slot. Pull the bobbin toward d. be used to cha_-_je gear position. you while Place the bobbin thread holding and top up through guide slot by turning the hand wheel top thread. threads to the left side of guide plate. Leave 3 to 4 inches of thread. 59 (Optional 5. Item) Marked | buttonhole-_ I /_ _ II ! I!1 a. Lower b. Start c. Allow the buttonhole sewing foot. slowly. the machine to do the work by itself. (Do not try to guide the fabric.) d. Center marking- Stop sewing To release the base plate off when the needle buttonhole base plate, returns pull the to the position lever toward where you it begins. and lift the the machine. Fabric Measurement markings Adjusting You control k. 4. - a. b. C. d. Mark your Placing buttonhole your garment NOTE: behind carefully the foot as shown. Align marked buttonhole with center Line up your fabric Pierce the fabric If you want edge with with your line up the fabric insert marking foot buttonhole to alter between the closeness If the fabric be 1/2 inch the 1/2 inch markings length. 60 the use of interfacing does not feed smoothly the stitches by turning the stitch length j markings the guide foot. on the Fine stitches fabrics for light guide Stitch length control 3 to 4 of the buttonhole. from the each time garment edge, L4 _ you start to sew a buttonhole. We recommended of 3 and 4. as shown. the needle at the beginning with it between on buttonhole the measurement of the buttonhole may density on the garment. machine, plate and the buttc,-_hole plate just in front e. position the stitch when from making the start, buttonholes. increase the stitch Stretch Stitch _ Coarse stitches for heavy fabrics j [ Set the Machine for any of these stitch I Top thread tension control 3 to 7 Stitch width control I'' (maximum) 2_ 3,_. 4 Stitch length control brown stretch stitch positio_ or grue, t zu_qe A: I Turn off the power switch. (see page 6). Insert the additional spool pin in the hole. Place the felt and the spool \ Zigzag foot Prp.pare the too thread for additional Thread then into Chan_ the needle to twin needle° Thread needles from to back. NOTE: is slipped front When changing (see page 1__6). on the additional spool spool pin. needle bar thread the pin. (see page 16__). (see paqe 19). guide as illustration A. (see page !5__.)- direction of sewing, turn the hand wheel so needles are in the up position. When F: Satin stitch foot sewing the twin Twin needle with twin mark needle do not use a stitch width which goes past ( _r ). needle is an optional item for all models. Twin needle Illustration A J 61 PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Irregular Breaking Needle Bunching of Thread Puckering 62 Stitches Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot. CORRECTION Choose correct size needle for thread Rethread machine. ! and fabric. Tighten upper thread tension. not pull fabric; guide it gently. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin. 1 Do Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely, Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Choose correct size needle for thread Reset needle. Reset presser foot. and fabric. Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam. When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are formed. Incorrect Using two different sizes or kinds of thread. Bent or biunt needle. Reset thread tension. Upper thread and bobbin Insert new needle. Loose presser foot. Fabric too sheer or too Reset presser foot. Use underlay of tissue paper. thread tension. soft. thread should be same size and kind, PROBLEM Incorrect size needle. Bent or blunt needle. Skipping Stitches Breaking Upper Thread Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension. Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needle. Reset needle. Loosen upper thread tension. Starting to stitch too fast. Improper threading. Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine. Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle. Loosen upper thread tension. Choose correct size needle for thread Insert new needle. Sharp eye in needle. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Breaking Bobbin Improper bobbin threading. Lint in bobbin holder or hook Thread L./Cll Fabric IIIII_ not Moving Jamming _JICILC; in race. Knocking Noise clutch Thread caught Lint in bobbin is disengaged. in hook race. holder or hook Replace needle plate, race. and fabric. speed. or polish Check bobbin threading. Clean bobbin holder and hook Remove darning nl_t_ Adjust Stitch Length Control. Place both threads back under to stitch. Push in the clutch. }JiQ_.t_. Stitch Length set at 0. Thread knotted under fabric. Push-pull Machine CORRECTION PROBABLE CAUSE off and fabric. burrs completely. race. presser foot before beginning Disassemble and clean hook race. Clean bobbin holder and hook race. 63 To insure essential that The bobbin or knock ! your machine operates its best, you need to keep the area can collect loudly if a thread dust and lint. Your machine can become sluggish is caught. i !i l t p J 1. Unplug the face cover CAUTION! machine Gb and open the plate. The light bulb HOT. could Protect fingers when you be 1 your J handle it. Turn off the power switch or unplug bulb . the bulb up counter-clockwise and turn to remove Remove hook Put :the new bulb right. in by pushing it clockwise. it out use a vacuum it. up and turning Take out the bobbin. Brush the the cover cover plate plate by sliding release button the to the J k, J the machine. Push 2. 64 at parts clean at all times. dust and cleaner. lint or you Insert the bobbin. Attach the hook may cover plate. Open face cover plate and oil two or two Remove excess oil, otherwise 1. Unplug the machine the presser foot 2. 3. Remove the bobbin Remove and 5. remove Take out bobbin and needle. the bobbin. holder Lift and remove points as shown below at least once a year. One drops of oil is sufficient. it may stain fabrics. up the it. cover plate. the screw on the left side of the needle with the large screw driver. 4. In Remove the needle plate. case extended machine time, Use good quality No other oiling Above points require oiling is not oil it used before sewing machine for an sewing. oil: is required are only area which on this machine. J 6. Use the feed dogs, hook holder. lint brush to clean the race and bobbin Also use a soft, dry cloth. 7° Line up the position notch the fits triangle bobbin next to marks holder the and so the stopper in the hook race. 65 PARTS LIST / 1 2 4 5 6 7 8 9 16 17 18 I 10 11 12 13 14 15 9/oJ @ ® W 19 2O 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 % 28 29 J 66 Ref. No. All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears Roebuck and Co. store or service center. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS 1 2 3 GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: 1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION 3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM if the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handing. 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 t5 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 Ref. No. *102869107 102403202 813404013 647814020 647814031 647814042 647814053 652806015 685502019 825813005 823803006 822804118 *6864 000009803 820832005 6478030O4 802424004 647808O09 *6889 822O2O5O3 822019509 625031500 *826815000 *213702016 *200002008 *200003009 *200005001 *200013105 *200027102 *2O0O30108 *214872000 *654805008 *94162OO00 Description Bobbin box with 10 bobbins ' Spool pin felt No. 11 Stretch fabric needles (BLU) No. 11 Single needles (ORG) No. !4 Single needles (RED) ___ ,!__ tr__! t • No. i6 Single nuuo_u_ IruR) No. 18 Single needles (GRN) Straight foot Zigzag foot Sliding buttonhole foot Zipper foot Satin stitch foot Needle threader Light bulb Large screw driver Small screw driver Lint brush Buttonhole opener Oil and lint brush set Large spool holder Small spool holder Additional spool pin Twin needle Buttonhole attachments Piping foot Gathering foot Pin-Tucking foot Hemmer foot Binder foot 1/4" Seam foot Walking foot Embroidery foot Ruffler * These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per instructions above. 67 .......................... nTGl_q_/ i I iilr ..... _ ....... _ . _ _ , INDEX A Accessory storage box .............. Additional spool pin ............... Appliqueing ................... 3, 9 16 26, 38 B Bar tacking ................... 26, 38 Base ........................... 3 Base plate ....... ............... 67 Basic zigzag ................... 2tJ, 31J Blind hemming ................. 26, 42 Bobbin ............ 5, t6_18, 64, 66_67 Bobbin holder .............. 18, 64_65 Bobbin thread ................. 20_21 Bobbin winding " 16_17 Bobbin winding spindle ......... 3, 16_17 Box stitching .................. 28, 45 Buttonhole 30, 54_56 Buttonhole attachment . . . 54, 57_60, 66_67 Buttonhole foot .......... 57_60, 66_67 Buttonhole guide plate ........ 57_60, 67 Buttonhole making .............. 54_60 Fabric, needle, thread and stitch length chart ..................... Face cover plate ............ Fagoting ..................... Feed dogs .................... Foot control .................... Free arm sewing ................ 15 3, 7, 64_65 28, 46 32, 65 4, 6 9_10 Hand wheel .................... Herring bone stretch ............. Hook race ...................... spool pin ............... Lace work ...................... Large screw driver ............. Light and power switch ............. Light bulb ................. Lint brush .................. 4, 20 29, 52 65 57_60, 67 26, 40 43 5, 66"-67 4, 6 64, 66_67 5, 64_67 ................ 26, 36 N C Cabinet ......................... Changing needle .................. Changing presser foot ............ Cleaning hook race and feed dogs Cornering guide ................ ...... 3 15 11_12 65 31,39 Needle ................ Needle clamp ................... Needle plate ................... Needle, thread and fabric chart Needle threading ............... 14_15, 66_67 4, 15 3, 18 ........ 15 19_20 O D Darning ..................... Decorative geometric patterns Drop feed lever Monogramming ....... _ 26, 32 29, 48 32 Oiling ......................... Overcasting stitch ................. Overcast stretch ................ Overedging stitch ............... 65 41 27, 50 29, 47 P Elastic stretch ................. Embroidery ................... Extension table .................. 68 28, 51 26, 39 3, 9 Parts list ..................... Performance problems ............ Reverse stitch control .......... Rick-rack stretch stitching ......... 3, 25, 31 26, 49 16 M Buttonhole template .......... Button sewing ................. 4, 6 3 4, 6 26_30 7 4, 11_13 4, 8 4, 17 R H Horizontal Plug connector ................... Portable case ..................... Power switch .................... Practical stitch chart ............. Pressure control dial ................ Presser foot ................. Presser foot lever ................. Push-pull clutch ................. Satin stitch foot ..................... ......... 5, 13, 27, 30, 37_39, 45, Satin stitching ................. Seam guides ..................... Serging ...................... Serging or pine leaf stretch ......... Sewing light ...................... Shell stitching ................. blloing buttonnole TOOt ............... ............... 5, 13, 30, 55_56, Sma!l screw driver ............. 5, Smocking .................... Snap-on button ................. Spool pin felt ................ 5, Spool pin ....................... Stitch length control .............. Stitch selector Stitch width control .............. Straight stitching ............ 26, Straight stitch foot .................... ............ 5, 12, 26, 31,33, 49, Straight stretch stitching .......... Stretch patching ................ Stretch stitch adjuster ............. 66_67 29, 37 31 27, 51 27, 51 6 27, 45 66_67 66_7 27, 50 4, 11 66_67 3 3, 24 4, 23 3, 24 31_35 66_67 26, 49 28, 52 4, 24 T 66_67 62_63 Take-up lever Thread cutter .................... ................... 3, 19 3, 19 Thread guide................. 3_4,19 Three-step zigzag............... 27,44 Topstitching .................. 26,33 Twinneedle stitches............... 61 Topthread................... 19"-22 Topthread tension.............. 21_22 Topthread tension contlol....... 3,21_22 Turning asquare corner............. 31 Two-point boxstitching ........... 29,47 Two-point shellstitching.......... 28,46 Z Zigzag foot ........................ ..... 12,26_30,38,40_47,49_53,66_67 Zigzag Zigzag Zipper Zipper stitching ............. 26, 36_48 overcasting ................. 41 application ........... 26, 34_35 foot . ..... 5, 13, 26,34_35,66_67 69 JF _ It _ Ill _ .qi,-4_1,-,qin.-.qnp,. ,ill,._l_-.IFl* 4_.. ,111,-q_m.. ,llt,._q_.. qlln.,.,_D_ ,111, _qb.. ,4il,,..,ql_ ,iLl, _b.. ,lll,._b. ,qi,,_._,. 'ql,-4_,-qlh "_b," 'qlb '4qD_ 'ilh-4b-'ql, "_b,.-'ill, _ 'ill, _4h-" 'gll, _ IIh "qh_-'ill, _ 'Lib "_b" qll, _b - 'IIF, "ql,," 'LII ' WARRANTY FULL For 25-YEAR WARRANTY 25 years from # in the mechanical .---" FULL For _) # the date of purchase, components TWO YEAR two years from appear in the speed control. FULL the of purchase, equipment of ON ALL the HEAD EQUIPMENT sewing defects in material OF SEWING MACHINE or workmanship which appear ._ which ,_ head. Sears will, PARTS _-= free of charge, repair machine ON ELECTRICAL date WARRANTY MACHINE Sears will, of the sewing WARRANTY electrical 90-DAY ON SEWING free of machine, AND charge, including MECHANICAL repair defects electronic in material components, or workmanship motor, wiring, switch and ADJUSTMENTS # - For 90 days from necessary for proper WARRANTY SERVICE CENTER/DEPARTMENT the date of purchase, Sears wilt, free of charge, replace any parts operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance. IS AVAILABLE IN THE UNITED BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE and provide TO THE NEAREST mechanical SEARS service SERVICE --= STATES. # --= This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state. -= SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., D/817 WA, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179 SEWING MACHINE Now that you or service, simply have purchased contact your Kenmore Sewing Machine, your nearest Sears Service Center. should a need ever exist for repair parts Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit. -]"he model number of your Sewing Machine your Sewing Machine. WHEN ORDERING *PART NUMBER you will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of See page 4 for location. REPAIR *PART if the parts Repair Parts Distribution need PARTS, ALWAYS DESCRIPTION are not stocked GIVE *MODEL iocaiiy, your THE FOLLOWING NUMBER order wiii *NAME INFORMATION: OF ITEM be eiec_ronicaiiy transmitted to a Sears Center for handling. SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A. S-385 Printed in Taiwan Part No. 654800014