Download NCA 450U Kit-AA NCA 450U Kit-AA

NCA 450U Kit-AA
High Performance Front & Rear Speaker Kit with 200 Watt Amplifier
For
For Use On
On 1998-2013
1998-2013Ultra
UltraClassic
Classics
& Tri-Glide
And Tri‐Glides
models
installation Manual
Thank you for choosing the Hogtunes® NCA 450U KIT-AA. Since
positive word of mouth is the best way to grow our business, we want
your new system to work as well as it was designed to. If you have
any questions or concerns, we are here to help.
Email: [email protected]
Tel: 705-719-6361
If you still need help, please consider a professional installation
by your motorcycle dealer.
Important: The NCA 450-AA amplifier can not be used
if any factory amplifier is already on the bike. Please
call us if you have any questions! We will most likely
have a simple solution for you!
getting started
Step #1: Remove the seat and both wires (+ and —) from the battery.
Step #2: Remove the outer fairing/headlamp assembly. Refer to a service manual
if you need help with this. Note: Placing a towel on the front fender can
help prevent scratches or “dings” from dropped tools or fasteners etc.
Step #3:Take the 2 wires off each front speaker by gently pulling one at a time.
Undo the screws that attach each speaker/grill assembly to the inner
fairing and remove. Gently pull the stock speaker out of each grill
assembly.
Step #4:“Clip” the Hogtunes front speakers (Model 352F-AA) into each grill
assembly. Position your new speaker/grill assembly onto the inner
fairing and re-attach each one using the OE screws. Although a hand
screwdriver is recommended for this step, make sure these screws are
tight! Let the factory speaker wires hang for now.
Step #5:Remove each rear speaker grill by undoing the 4 screws on the front of
the grills. Carefully lift up on each speaker and take the 2 wires off by
pulling one at a time from the stock speaker. Put the grills, fasteners and
speakers aside.
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Step #6: Locate the “Fader/No Fader” switch on the side of the amplifier, and
make sure it is in the “Fader” position. In this position, the amplifiers
front and rear channels are controlled independently by the Ultra radios
built in fader. If the switch is in the “No Fader” position, all
4 channels are driven equally and although all 4 channels
will play, the radio’s fader will not work.
Step #7:Locate the 3 position switch on the side of the amplifier marked
“GAIN” and make sure this switch is in the “+3” position. Since Ultra
radios come with a fader, you can use the fader control to adjust front/
rear balance. If you were to run this amp off a 2 channel radio (no
fader) the switch would go to the “No Fader” position and the gain
switch would be used to adjust the volume of whatever is plugged into
the rear channels.
Step #8:The power harness ends in a black plug with 1 larger (10awg) red
wire, 1 larger (10awg) black wire and 1 smaller orange wire. Locate
this and plug it into the matching black “pigtail” on the amplifier. The
input harness has a smaller black 8 pin plug with smaller gauge wire.
Plug this into the black “pigtail” socket on the amplifier marked “hi level
input”. Locate the 4 pin black plug with black/brown and black/blue
wires. This will plug into the “front out” on the amp, which is a “pigtail”
ending with a 4 pin black socket.
Note: There is a pigtail ending with a blue socket labeled
“bypass out”. This carries the radios built in power (front
channels only) and although not used in this kit, it is there
for plug and play future system expansion.
The amplifier mounts inside the fairing “over” the radio using the side
plates shown below. The side plates are attached to the side of the
amplifier by removing 4 screws on each side of the amp, positioning the
plates as shown below and re-installing the screws into the amp. Factory
CB, XM, and other similar modules are mounted on top of the radio and
secured with a screw that goes into the back of the radio. Remove the
screw and let the module(s) hang for now. Do not install the
module shelf yet! Each side of the radio has 2 large allen head
bolts that secure the radio into the fairing. You will loosen the bolts on
each side that are farthest away from you (closest to the inner fairing)
and remove the bolts closest to you. The amp will “clip in” to the back
bolts and the bolts removed will go back in over the plates to secure the
amp. Re-tighten all 4 bolts to factory specs. Install the module shelf as
shown, noting that the “stove bolt” heads must be positioned as shown.
Your module(s) will screw into the shelf using the factory screw(s) you
removed from the back of the radio.
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Side
Plate
Module
Shelf
Side
Plate
Stove
Bolt
Head
wiring the amplifier
Step #1:With amplifier in place, take the yellow/black wires on the input
connector of the amplifier and plug them into the front factory speaker
wires on the clutch side of the bike. They will only go in one way. Take
the brown/black wires on the “front out” connector and plug them into
the front clutch side speaker. They will only go in one way.
Step #2:Take the green/black wires on the input connector and plug them into
the front factory speaker wires on the brake side of the bike. Take the
blue/black on the front out plug and plug them into the brake side front
speaker. Again, these will only go on one way. The orange wire is the
“remote turn on lead” and tells the amp to turn on whenever it sees
+12v (.5 amp min.). Unplug the center wire (+) on the cigarette lighter.
Plug the orange lead from the amplifier directly onto the lighter using
the female connector. Plug the factory lighter wire to the male “take off”
connector which is part of the amps orange turn on lead.
4
routing the main wire harness
Step #1:The power/ground harness and rear harness will pass together under
the inner fairing where the main wire harness passes through on the
brake side of the bike. Loosen the tank’s “chrome console” and run
wires up and over the gas tank, but under the tank’s chrome console.
There is a provision on the front of the tank console for wires to pass.
A
B
Stock Harness and Amplifiers Harnesses
Passing from Fairing to Just in Front of Tank
(Arrow A). Cable Tying the Harnesses To The
Main Bike Harness Just In Front Of The Tank
(Arrow B) Allows The Amp Harnesses To Go
Up Towards The Tanks Chrome Console Easier
And Makes For a Cleaner Install.
When correctly installed, the power and ground wires are the right
length to connect to the battery and if used, the rear wire 8 pin harness
is the right length to be zip-tied to the brake side fender strut. Be sure to
run the 8 pin harness UNDER the air line for the brake side rear shock.
Please run the power harness as per the manual. Sometimes
people assume they know more than us and wire amplifier power
to the headlight wires or other places. Not only will your friends
laugh at you, but you will be calling us for technical support.
Please save us all from the grief and phone call!
Step #2:On the 8 pin rear harness “end” you will see 2 pairs of black
shorter wires in a sheath and 2 pairs of black longer wires in a second
sheath. Put the ends of the shorter wires into the brake side rear
speaker box. These wires will enter where the factory wires enter the
rear speaker box. Plug the factory rear speaker wires into the male
wires of the amp harness noting they will only go on one way.
Note: The factory female rear speaker connectors are
non-insulated. Once the factory female rear speaker
connectors are plugged into the Hogtunes male connectors,
wrap each connection with electrical tape to prevent the
positive and negatives from touching each other.
Take a Hogtunes rear speaker (model 352R-AA) and plug the female
connectors of the amp harness into the speaker. They will only go one
way. Repeat this step using the longer wires on the clutch side of the
bike.
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Step #3: Once you are confident the wires are correctly attached to the rear
speakers, sit them in place, put the grills back on and secure the
speakers by reinstalling the 4 screws on each grill. Attach the amps red
wire to the positive (+) battery terminal and the amps black wire to the
negative (—) battery terminal. The factory battery wires are also
re-installed at this point. When attaching the power and ground wires,
it is always a good practice to do the negative first. When the positive
connector touches the battery, some sparking is normal. This is a
function of the capacitors in the amplifier charging up.
Step #4:Turn the stereo on, and at low volume, test to make sure all 4 speakers
are working. Make sure the radios fader control is adjusting the volume
between front and rear speakers. If not, double check the “Fader/ No
Fader” switch.
Re-install the seat making sure the amplifiers “+” and “—” connectors
are positioned in such away so they will not bend or break when the
riders weight is on the seat. This is the best time to take a few minutes to
“clean up” the wiring and secure using supplied zip-ties.
Before re-installing outer fairing, turn front wheel
to each extreme side making sure any wiring is
not impeding the steering of the motorcycle.
Failure to do so can result in serious
injury or death!
Adjusting the Bass and Treble: The way the system sounds sitting still or at a
stop light will be RADICALLY different from how it sounds “at speed”. Your
able to use the radios controls to adjust the sound, but please do so carefully
when riding.
Re-install the fairing and your system is now ready to enjoy!
6
system upgrade #1
Hogtunes HF-1 tweeter pod for 1998-2013 bikes not only looks great, it’s easy
to install and brings ANY audio system to the next level! Adding these tweeters to
any system “fixes” the inherent audio issues created by the stock speaker locations
and will give much better clarity, especially at speed. Out of the box, HF-1
matches the factory “satin black” perfectly, but also comes apart easily and can
be painted to match any custom inner fairings. HF-1 comes with plug and play
wiring and everything needed to complete the job. You can learn more by visiting
http://www.hogtunes.com/products/tweeters/hf-1.html
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system upgrade #2
As per the manual, the amp powers the front speakers (and tweeter pod if
present) and rear speakers. In this upgrade, the rear speakers will be run off the
radios built in power. The front channels of the amp will power the front speakers
and the rear channels of the amp will be used to power 692.2/Lid 6x9 lid
speakers or FL-7W 7” woofers for your fairing lower glove boxes. All bolt in, all
plug and play! If you want to add a second amp later on, we make it easy by
offering the parts you need a la carte.
“saddle
bag lid
6x9”
speakers
or 7”
fairing
lower
glove box
woofers”
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system upgrade #3
This system has the supplied 4 channel amp continue to power the fronts and
rears (and tweeter pod if present) buts adds a Hogtunes REV 200-AA amplifier to
power a set of Hogtunes 692.2/Lid saddlebag lid speakers or a set of FL-7W 7”
woofers for the fairing lower glove boxes. This can be done at any time, all bolt
in & all plug and play! Hogtunes 2CHSP mounting plate is required to bolt the
REV 200-AA into your fairing.
Use supplied blue plug
send signal from expansion port of first amp to
input of second amp
“saddle bag lid 6x9”
speakers or 7”
fairing lower glove
box woofers”
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Warranty Information
Please Record Your Amplifier’s Serial # Here_________________________
Hogtunes speakers are warranted for a period of 20 years. The NCA 450-AA
Amplifier is warranted for 3 years from original purchase date. Proof of purchase
is required for all warranty claims. The warranty applies to the original retail
customer and is not transferable. Please contact Hogtunes for all warranty claims.
Products found to be defective during the warranty period will be repaired or
replaced (with a product deemed to be equivalent) at Hogtunes sole discretion.
Hogtunes complete warranty policy is available on our website at:
www.hogtunes.com/warranty.html
What Is Not Covered:
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
9)
Any expense related to the removal or re-installation of Hogtunes products.
Repairs to these products performed by anyone other than Hogtunes.
Subsequent damage to any other components.
Any product purchased from a non-authorized Hogtunes dealer.
Damage to Hogtunes products due to an accident or collision.
Hogtunes Amplifiers with broken or removed “warranty void” stickers.
Damage due to water from custom installations.
Damage from incorrect installation, improper use, abuse or modifications.
Damage to inbound product due to improper packing.
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Note: The NCA 450-AA amplifier has “low level input”
that is not used in this install assuming the bike has
a factory radio. The low level in “can” be used if an
aftermarket car stereo is on the bike. The amp’s low
level input is NOT an extra Auxiliary Input. Please call
or email us for more information.
Technical Specifications
Hogtunes NCA 450-AA Amplifier
Actual RMS Power at 2 Ohms:......50 watts x 4
Freq. Response:..........................30hz-25khz
Fuse at Amp:..............................30 amp
Hogtunes 352F-AA Front Speakers
Power Handling: ........................100 RMS-150 Peak
Frequency Response: ..................55hz-25Khz
Sensitivity: .................................92 db 1watt/1meter
Nominal Impedance: ..................2.0 Ohms
Cool Factor:...............................EXTREME
Hogtunes 352R-AA Rear Speakers
Power Handling:.........................100 RMS-150 Peak
Frequency Response: ..................55hz-25Khz
Sensitivity: .................................91 dB 1watt/1meter
Nominal Impedance: ..................2.0 Ohms
Cool Factor: ..............................Oh Baby!
Harley-Davidson, Electra Glide, Road Glide, Street Glide, Ultra Classic, Tri Glide CVO,
Screamin Eagle and Tour-Pak® are Trademarks, and/or Registered Trademarks of
Harley-Davidson, Inc., Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA, and if Used or Implied are for
Reference Only. There is No Affiliation Between Harley-Davidson, Inc., and Hogtunes Inc.
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Any audio system can be a
distraction to the rider
and/or passenger. Please
use caution when
playing your stereo,
especially in traffic.
www.hogtunes.com