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Installation Issues / 29 by the second in-line filter element, the water pump is added to boost water flow to the watermaker. Installing the silt reduction kit, especially the centrifugal pump, is not as simple an undertaking as it might seem. Before rushing out to buy one, consider whether you really need to go to the trouble and expense. When is a 5-micron Prefilter Needed? The standard 30-micron prefilter does an adequate job of filtering the intake water under normal circumstances. A filter element in good condition will be removing everything larger than 30-microns from the intake stream. This assures that anything passing through the prefilter will be smaller than 30microns. This is a sufficiently small size to allow the particles to be flushed on through the pump interior and membrane passages with the reject brine flow. There is really no need for finer filtering under such circumstances. A problem arises when the intake water contains silt or other hard, abrasive substances. Potential problem areas include estuaries, tidal plains, coral reefs, and river mouths, to name just a few. If the watermaker will be used to process water with significant amounts of such contaminants, the owner should seriously consider installing the optional 5-micron prefilter. It is important to realize, however, that the finer prefilter merely reduces the size of the particulate contaminants that are passed through the watermaker—it does not eliminate them completely. The problem with such contaminants, of course, is the greatly increased wear and tear on the watermaker’s seals and moving parts. More, and larger, particles will cause more rapid and significant damage to the pump. The fewer, smaller particles that are passed when the 5-micron prefilter is added will continue to cause wear, but at a substantially reduced rate. Under such conditions, there is little question that the optional 5-micron prefilter will extend the life of the watermaker. On the other hand, if the watermaker is used to process silty water for extended periods of time, the owner should plan on replacing the seals at more frequent intervals. Also, the watermaker should not be expected to “live” as long as one that has been used only in “clean, open ocean seawater.” When is a Booster Pump Needed? I seriously question the common assumption that adding a second prefilter in the seawater intake line necessarily means adding an auxiliary booster pump, especially with the smaller watermaker models like the PowerSurvivor 35 and 40E. The volume of water flow through these watermakers is so low (approximately 15-20 gallons per hour, or one quart per minute) that, in most cases, cavitation should not rear its ugly head even with both filters in line. Under optimum circumstances, the watermaker can draw enough water to work without the need for a booster pump. I have a lot of faith in those pumps. Nevertheless, my penchant for imagining worse case scenarios for everything installed on a boat leads me in a different direction. Realistically, I suspect that adding a second prefilter may bring many installation configurations uncomfortably close to the point of cavitation. If short runs of over-sized intake hoses are used, if the watermaker is at (or not far above) the waterline, and if the filter elements are kept very clean, I have little doubt that the PowerSurvivor 35 and 40E would operate well with both filters in line and no booster pump. Given another system with long runs of standard hose, a watermaker mounted high above the waterline, and a moderate accumulation of detriment in the prefilters, I would not be surprised if problems developed. With this said, it would be my recommendation that one should first seriously consider whether a 5-micron prefilter is really needed. If it is determined that the extra filtration is needed, a booster pump should also be installed at the same time. Installing a Booster Pump: The auxiliary booster water pump provided by in its “Silt Reduction Kit” is a centrifugal water pump. A centrifugal pump has certain advantages. It can be dead-headed (have its output blocked) without damage and it adapts well to the variable flow rate requirements of a watermaker. On the other hand, the installer should be aware of the potential problems with improperly installed centrifugal pumps. In stark contrast to the capabilities of the positive displacement pump in the watermaker, a centrifugal pump is not self-priming. If there is air in its intake line, it may fail to pump. It also depends on the fluid it is pumping for lubrication and must not be run dry for very long. The March Model 893-04 pump shipped by can tolerate no more than thirty minutes of dry running before damage is likely. For both of the foregoing reasons, the centrifugal pump in the “Silt Reduction Kit” must be installed so that it meets the following conditions: 1. It must be installed so that it is at least one foot below the waterline of the vessel at all times. Sailboat owners need to consider both starboard and port tacks under sail 2. The pump should be mounted with the inlet horizontal and the outlet pointing either up, or sideways