Download Sears 385 Owner`s manual
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OWNER'S MANUAL SEA/RS SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385. 1764180 SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear Cuatomer: You have just invested in a very please pause for a moment and care for your Specific obtain instructions fine zigzag and carefully sewing machine. read this booklet Before which using your contains new Kenmore instructions machine, on how to operate machine. are given the best sewing results on threading, and avoid tension adjustments, unnecessary cleaning, service expense oiling, etc. This will for conditions beyond help you our control. Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire. Kenmore Sewing Machine Record in space number of are located this provided appliance. on the below the The model nomenclature model number plate, number and and serial as identified aerial number on Page 3 of this booklet. Model No. 385. Serial No. Retain these numbers for future reference. THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE. IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Your sewing machine is designed Read all instruction before and constructed using this sewing 4. Never only for HOUSEHOLD use. machine. 1 An appliance unplug and before 2. should this Always the risk of electric Never drop or insert 6. Do not use outdoors. 7. Do never be left appliance from the unattended electric shock: when outlet not operate plugged in. Always after using type rated cleaning. unplug 10. before relamping. Replace bulb with same 15 Watts. 3. Do not 11. reach for the appliance that has fallen where it can fall into water. Do not place or sink, or store appliance Do not place in or drop into water or be pulled or other into a tub or injury To reduce unplug Keept fingers the sewing Always use the Do not pull Switch the 15. the needle Do not allow appliance 2 this Close attention is necessary when this only attachments for its intended recommended use as described by the manufacturer in this manual. as contained in manual. Never operate working water, center this properly, Return appliance if the appliance for examination, if it has a damaged it has been repair, to dropped the nearest electrical cord or damaged, authorized or mechanical or plug, if it is not or dropped dealer into or service adjustment, Keep free from products are being used or where to the off ("O") position, then from all proper To unplug, moving parts. grasp the plug, remove Special care not the is required needle. needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needles. or push fabric the needle sewing area, Always unplug adjustments covers, machine such or changing while causing off sewing lubricating, mentioned it to break. ("O") as threading presser foot, the stitching. when needle, making changing any adjustment needle, in threading and the like. machine from or when marking in the instruction the electrical any other outlet when user servicing manual. is used by or near children. Use this appliance Use only 3. to be used as a toy. (spray) on cord. machine bobbin, removing 1. aerosol pulling away 13. shock, to persons. blocked. controller into any opening. all controls by around It may deflect fire, electric any object turn Do not use bent liquid. the risk of burns, opening and foot outlet. 12. 14. WAR N ING- air dust, and loose cloth. where To disconnect, Do not cord. any machine needle to break. Unplug immediately, 4. 9. with of the sewing is being administered. plug from immediately appliance of lint, S, 8, To reduce the openings accumulation oxigen DAN G ER- operate ventilation SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS TABLE OF CONTENTS , ;.'( J_,v '_"L ILJil IVt/\t'lili'_l A Portable case or Cabinet is Available .............. 2 Locate and Identify the parts .................. Identify the Accessories ........................ 2_3 4 Set Up the Machine ......................... • Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power • Foot Control Use .......................... • Set the Pressure Dial ........................ • • • 5_9 ....... 5 5 6 Setting Spool Pins .......................... Adjust the Presser Foot Lever .................. Thread Cutter ............................ 7 7 7 • Accessory Storage Box ...................... • Free Arm Sewing: the Removal Extension Table Know What the Presser Feet Will Do . _ .......... • Check Your Presser Foot .................... 8 . . . 8"9 10_13 10 • Change the Presser Foot ..................... • Presser FootTypes ...................... Choose Your Needle and Thread ............... • Check Your Needle ........................ • Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length • To Change Your Needle ..................... Prepare the Bobbin ........................ • To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine • Wind the Bobbin ......................... • insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder 10 11_13 13"_14 13 Chart ......... ......... ..... 14 14 15_16 15 15 16 Prepare Your Top Thread .................... • Thread Your Needle ....................... 17"_20 17 • Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ................. • Adjust the Top Thread Tension .............. Stitch Selector ............................. Stitch Width Control ......................... 18 19_20 20 21 Stitch Length Control ........................ 21 Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................. Reverse Stitch Control ........................ 21 22 Starting 22 To Sew ! _ \};1_ Practical Itl}- Stitch ............................ .";I I li:|tl Chart SECTION !; ...................... Straight Stitches .......................... • Straight Stitch ........................... • Use the Seam Guides ....................... • Turn a Square Corner ...................... • • SECTION Use the Darning Plate ...................... Topstitching ............................ 29 29 b 30 30 31_38 31 32 33 33 34 34 35 36 36 37 38 38 39 40 41--47 41 42_43 44_47 48_49 50 50 51 52 52 52 53 53 54 54 55 PERFORMANCE PI{OBLEMS When to Do When ......................... 56_57 ('AF_E FOH Y()LJt_ (Ht\t{I k/IIkUHHgE Replace the Light Bulb ....................... Clean the Bobbin Holder ...................... Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs .............. Oiling the Machine .......................... 23_27 28_29 28 28 28 4 Darning ................................. Straight Stretch ............................ Zigzag Stitches ........................... • Basic Zigzag ............................. • Satin Stitch ............................. • Applique ............................... • Bar Tacking ............................. • Monogramming .......................... • Embroidery ............................. • Sew a Button ............................ • Overcasting Stitch ......................... • Rick-Rack Stretch ....................... • Three-Step Zigzag ......................... • Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... • Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ Blind Hemming ............................ Lace Work ................................ Buttonhole Making ........................ • Learning to Sew Buttonholes ................. • Built4n System ........................ • Using Buttonhole Attachment ............... Sew in a Zipper .......................... Shell Stitching ............................. Two-Point Shell Stitching ...................... Smocking ................................ Stretch Patching ............................ Fagoting Stitch ............................ Herring Bone Stretch ......................... Elastic Stretch Stitch ......................... Box Stitching .............................. Two-point Box Stitch ........................ Overedging Stitch ........................... Decorate with Geometric Patterns ................ 58 58 59 59 PARTS LIST ...................................... 60--61 INDEX 62_63 .......................................... 1 SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available A full nearest line of sewing Sears retail cabinets store or is available through our Locate and Identify the Parts at your general catalog. Another option your Kenmore where. . . . buy a Carrying goes anywhere, Case . . . then can be stored Thread anyUpper Thread Take up Lever Top Thread Control Face Cover Thread Needle Spool Pins Guide Tension Plate Cutter Plate Extension (Accessory Table storage box ) SECT Carrying Arm Cover Presser Foot Thumb Screw Presser Foot Push Pull Clutch Sel_'," t or Snap on Button Presser Foot Stretch Stitch Ctlnnector Lever Adluster £{qht and Power Switch P)u_ KNOW YOUR MACHINE Thread Guide Needle Clamp . Wheel Stitch 1. Handle Plate . Hand ON Foot Nomenclature Plate Control Identify the AccesSories Buttonhole Darning plate opener Needle set Large SCrew driver Small screw dr_ver foot Spool pin felt \ Straight stitch loot loot Siidin 9 buttonhole % Satin stitch loot Buttonhole But tonhole brush J ........ Zipper Lint plateguide Buttonhole templates/' foot SECTION _2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine Foot Control Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Power Power supply plug Power \_ switch Use _-_/supply _ Ll_J_ I \Sewin_ liqht Power 4. Plug connector Before inserting machine, be the sure plug the power Check Volt 2. 3. your outlet into your switch is to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Your the machine plug into the outlet, as shown. It will only Insert the power supply plug into switch to turn light. three-prong fit one way, the outlet. FEATURE: machine will light/power interrupted light/power children. OPERATING AC outlet, Insert and power and sewing The foot which To SAFETY OFF. t. the light on the power Machine plug NOTE: Push switch increase not operate unless the switch is turned on. If you are or stop sewing, turn off the switch to prevent injury to To regulates speed, the ball of your the speed at decrease gently press down with foot. speed, release your foot control is sensitive pres- sure slightly. NOTE: INSTRUCTIONS "For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other), To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one way, If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way." "Foot Controller control you sew. The foot will increase or sewing speed Practice regulate your on decrease your immediately. a scrap your and of sewing fabric to speed to taste and needs. Model YC-482P or YC.530 for use with Sewing Machine Models 385.1778x x x, 385.1684x x 385.1764x x x, 385.1884x x 385.17922x x x, 385.16816x 385.17026x x x. xxx (For U.S.A. market only) x, 38&1584x x x, 385.1664 x x x, 385.1754 x x x, 385.17526x x x, x, 385.17928 x x x, 385.17924 x x x, 385.18836 x x x, x x, 385.17822x x x, 385.17828 x x x, 385.18830 x x x and - represents numbers 00O through 999." 5 "SECTION! 2:.'- _P__U R :MACPI _ E__ Set Up the Machine (Continued) Set the Pressure Dial Pressore Control dial The pressure Set the dial control aligning Setting mark dial is located the setting mark 3 ..... most sewing 2 ..... applique and Cut-Out 1 ..... basting, sewing chiffon, NOTE: Also for velours The pressure the machine it. inside the face cover plate. the groove as follows, work lace, organdy and knits dial on the dial with should (with more and other lightweight fabrics. stretch). be reset at 3 after changing pressure, so is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use SECTION • Adjust position spool pins of thread are used in order for holding to feed thread Thread spool storage. felt up on the the spool pins. pins. You to for Cutter Normal up position r foot the Place the Push down FOR SEWING _osition the machine. To use, pull YOUR MACHINE - High \ spools PREPARE the Presser Foot Lever position The ,2. The Presser Foot presser foot. Lever raises and lowers your don't need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish handy thread The threads starting sewing. Just use the cutter. are cut the proper length for the nextseam. You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser foot 7 SECTION 2: _,.'_RI_i=_',/_I_QIJR!MACH|I_I_EJ_'J_J'NG_ Set Up the Machine • (Continued) Accessory Storage Box • Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table Your To remove: To Remove the Extension (for free-arm 1. The lid open Sewing of toward the accessory storage box lifts you. accessories Table sewing) Grip the table with your index finger and thumb, located Pull gently toward you. The extension table will snap out. • in the box. Bar tacking and To Attach: table To Attach (for flat-bed the Extension Table sewing) 1. Fit the tabs into the slot, as shown. 2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in. pockets, plackets on ready-made or home- garments to avoid bunching around Slot to reinforce waistlines made Extension 8 can do free arm sewing. makes sewing easy for: as shown. 2. are conveniently sewing machine This feature the needle. fabric SECTJON • Stitching sleeves, waistbands, or any circular garment area. pant legs, Darning socks or mending knees, elbows, or areas of wear in children's clothes. 2. PREPARE * YOUR MACHINE Sewing etc. buttons FOR SEWING on sleeves, waistbands, SECTION Know • 2. PREPARE What Check Your the Presser Feet each foot Your presser Will Do • does in order foot snaps on the foot feature of this machine. which by a Foot is seldom or attach the foot holder, To Attach: the machine. Use the the back large of Each presser foot here is what To Remove: toward 1. merely the correct Pattern presser Chart foot and the for the stitch detailed you directions wish to sew. Consult for sewing with by turning the hand the the various presser feet. screw you do: To Match holder driver. the hole in the with the threaded foot Fit the foot screw into Snap Off: Raise 3. the toward you. screw by turning it needle bar to its highest position wheel . you. Raise the presser Press the snap-on foot Tighten the toward 2. holder the hole. 3. 1. hole in the presser bar. 2. 10 Use Stitch Holder. To Attach: screw need to know Change the Presser Foot removed. To Remove: the You to use thefn effectively. is held in place holder, If vou need to remove Turn FOR SEWING Presser Foot Tile Presser feet are an important what YOUR MACHINE will drop off. foot. button on the hack of the foot holder• The presser SECTION • 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Presser Foot Types Straight Zigzag Foot A: Foot H: Zigzag foot Straight foot To Snap On Use this foot for both Pin straight and zigzag Uses: Uses: Zigzag stitching (see page 31), Bar tacking (see page 33), foot the so the hori- zontal pin on under the groove of foot the presser foot lies just the foot holder. 2. Lower lock NOTE : the presser If you presser press foot holder to foot in place. do not foot hear snap in down holder on firmly Straight stitching Topstitching Straight stitching only. (see page 28), (see page 29), stretch (see page 30). Three-step zigzag (see page 37), Overcast stretch (see page 38), To Snap On the Presser Foot: Ptace the presser for straight stitching. Button sewing (see page 35), Rick-rack stretch (see page 36), 1. Use this foot exclusively using center needle position the the place, presser until Lace work (see page 40), Two-point shell stitching (see page 5_00), Smocking (see page 51), Stretch patching (see page 51), Fagoting (see page 52), Herring bone stretch (see page 52), Elastic stretch (see page 53), Box stitching (see page 53), Two-point box stitch (see page 54), Overedging stitch (see page 54). you hear the snap. 11 SECTION 2. :_,I_RE'_.,__='__WIN_ Know What the Presser Feet Will Do (Continued) • Presser Foot Types Sliding Buttonhole (Continued) Foot Zipper Satin Stitch Foot E; Zipper Foot foot F: S_idlngbuttonholefoot Use this system, It buttonholes Uses: foot for buttonholes is marked to of built measure accurately. Buttonhole making m your This foot can be set to sew on each side of your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the zipper and keep the seam straight. (see page 42). Uses: Zipper application (see page 48). Use this transparent outlining Uses: stitch foot foot for satin stitch ant applique. Satin stitch (see page _3_2), Applique (see page 33), Monogramming Shell stitching Geometric (see page 34), (see page 50), decorative (see page 55), 12 Satin stitching SECT ONe2 PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Choose Your Needle and Thread • Presser Foot Buttonhole Types (Continued) Foot Buttonhole foot Your Use this foot buttonhole Uses: when making attachment Buttonhole buttonholes with In your system. making choice of needle and thread (see page44) depends needle case, you will find on the fabric the following Blue (11) ............ for stretch Orange for lightweight (11) .......... for medium Purple for .......... .......... for • Check Your has a topstitching heavy stitching weight weight and fabrics decorative on these fabrics needle thicker (18) fabrics medium-heavy (This needles: or medium-heavy topstitching Green color-coded fabrics Red (14) ............ (16) you are sewing. weight larger thread hole for thread.) fabrics and decorative lop on these fabrics Needle I. Look for barbed 2. A damaged needle and silk-like fabrics. Always buy smooth and consistent a good or blunt point. can cause permanent quality thread. It should snags or runs in knits, resist tangling fi_e silks and be strong, in thickness. 13 _N_ p RI::PAR E_y O U _MA_II_m_Q.'IFL_ Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length To Change Your Needle Chert NEEDLE SIZE AND QOLOR FABRIC THREAD LpghtweJgh! Babste Oimily. Silks, Fine Crppe, Taffexa, Organza, 11 -ORANGE Voile, Organdy ......... Medrum Colton, Weight Cotton Percale, Blends. 14,RED Pique, Satin, Vinyl Su_tings, Wool Crepe_ Knits, Linen, Woo! Gaba,dine, Lealher 2 (12 stitches inch) per J S0 Mercerized Cotlon Potyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A 2--2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch) Leather Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy. Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, RECOMMENDED STITCH LENGTH SETTING : Gingham. Shantung, SPer_ucker, SIZE Polyesler Core/Colton Wrap Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A Chiffon. Lace, EWJ._. Flannel. VeJve_s, SO Mercerized 14-RED Or 16 PURPLE Mercerized Cotton Heavy-Duly Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A r I,_I 2--3 (8-10 stitches per inch) S_dl, :l';va V f KL_rII /_}LJ RPavy We;ghl Coatings, Cotlon Tw_Us, U_holstery Duck. Heavy Canvas Decorative On all types Stretch Polves NV!on t 8.GREEN top stitchln of fabric 9 Fabric: co SlIPtCh Terry, Clre Tricot Buttonhole Twist {Use thread as top only) 1 1 BLUE er Double Tr 16 PURPLE 18 GREEN Heavy Duty Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap Silk A Kn , Jer_;ey Spandex, is, (STRETCH FABRIC NEEDLE) Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 50 Mercerized Cotton 3 (8 stitches inch) per 3-4 (6-8 stitches per inch ) 2-2.5 (10-12 stitches per inch) NOTE: bar to tion the by turning its highest poi_ hand wheel towar4 screw by turningl{ you .... 1. Loosen toward 2. 3. Insert the needle clamp you. Remove with the needle the new by pulling needle into the flat side away from it downward. the needle Push the needle up as far as it will go. 5. Tighten box. the needle screwdriver clamp from screw firmly your clamp you. 4. large 14 Raise the needle accessory with the storRt SECTION !2; _PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Prepare the Bobbin • 1 To Remove Gently the Bobbin from the Machine push it towards 2. Set aside. 3. Lift down on the bobbin cover • plate and Wind the Bobbin slide Bobbin you. c)ut the bobbin, as shown. 1. Put your spool of thread windingspindle onto spool pin. with the thread winding in the direction shown. 2. Pull the winding clutch away from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you the bobbin. 3. Draw thread 4. Place the from 5. Push the bobbin 6, Holding 7. When spool threaded through bobbin on bobbin winder the bobbin tension winding disc as shown, spindle so that the thread comes out on top. winder spindle onto end of thread, the bobbin is slightly to the right until depress filled, the foot stop it clicks. control. the machine and clip the thread coming from the bobbin. 8. Slowly start the machine 9. Push the bobbin winder again and wind spindle 10. Remove 1 I. Push in the clutch for normal the thread to the left and clip until the bobbin stops. the thread. the bobbin. sewing operation. 15 SECTION 2. PREPARE Prepare the Bobbin • Insert the Bobbin YOUR MACHIN6;.!P-O_fNG (Continued) into the Bobbin Holder @ 1. Put the bobbin holder so that counter clockwise into the the thread (left). bobbin feeds 2. Pu(( about toward slot you 4 inches through of thread 3. the tension @. Then pull the toward the back through the slot thread of the clockwise machine _ 4. Sbde the bobbin pushing bobbin. thread plate. • Threading chart is located the face cover plate. Threading rt 16 behind cover plate whil it down slightly over t_ Allow about 4 inchesl to show above the nee_ SECTION Prepare • 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Your Top Thread Thread Your Needle _ _r_ --0-- ® Raise take-up lever to its highest position Raise presser foot Place spool The numbered steps above follow the numbers on spool pin as shown, 1. Draw thread 2. While by turning hand wheel toward you. lever. into thread holding thread holder. 3. Firmly thread 4. Draw 5. Thread then is slipped 6. Thread needle thread guide using near spool, check spring draw with both draw up and through coming from the back of the spool. hands. thread take-up down into the tension lever from right to left. area and then around the on the illustrations. Dotted loops lines and then show places is pulled tight. where the thread down and slip it through the thread guide. thread NOTE: from You may want into needle front bar thread guide. to back. to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading. 17 SECTION 2. Prepare • Your PREPARE Top Thread MACHINE FOR_SEWING (Continued) Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread Raise needle and presser thread rotate foot lever. loosely turn. Hold in left handwheel you one complete 18 YOUR hand toward 2. Bring bobbin top thread. thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 4 to 6 inches of thread clear. SECTION Adjust the Top Thread PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Tension Choose T_ p Siitp 2. _,f fabric the Correct The best tension Set tinq mark Tension: will depend on; the stiffness and thickness the number of fabric of the fabric layers the type of stitch The lop thread is too loose Tlqht_rl Top of For Straight The ideal fabric, lhrpsII licIht TOp side _._ Stitch straight as shown look gads, that lop _ide fabric stitch will have threads above, magnified locked between the two layers of The tOP apD_rs to show detail. at the each stitch When adjusting stitch, front is smooth top thread and back, you will notice that there thread on iliidersi_'Je If you The is too The the of ho_ll_rl _Op_3_ Oil lhI_ad I_IP th_ tabric, are no and even. tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top thread. Tension The bottom is too top loose: thread of of the stitch through the The bottom side the shows the fabric. will Tension The feel bumpy. is too tight: bobbin top the stitch thread will of the will fabric• come through The toD side of feel bumpy• 19 SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINEFOR SEWING Stitch Selector For Zigzag Stitct_l In the correct zigzag stitch, of the fabric below for and top the correct the bobbin threads will appearance. threads show slightly To match will not show on the top side on the bottom this appearance, adjust side. your See top tension. _0 Top tension Top tension Too Tight Too Loose Stitch Just Right Sel_tnf The stitch selector Simply turn on stitch the stitch ]_I_ _ide of gabrlC lop side of Fabric length this control control indicator control determines until panel. the the stitch desired The bottom is set at the stretch you select. stitch is indicated row stitch of stitches Stitch To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out01 fabric when selecting a stitch. patterns are color+coded to recommend setting zones control. ZONES • • Side (d hat>tic r+_f! _i!lht -- C(/r rler of each _'iqzag toq_,lh_r wil! _rl Dull Pie top of 20 side lilbrlcs. Bottom side of Fabric Bottom Too Loose Just Right -- Minimize the amount of top thread visible on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side. Results vary with fabric, thread and sewing conditions. The rOD thread will loop through bottom side of fabric and will be pulled almost together. when th+ position. Top side of Fabric NOTE: r4r!!t!ir_, by the red indicat_ is selected side of Fabric Orange ........ Green ......... Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitct_es Geometric Decorative Stitches • Blue .......... Built-in Buttonhole • Yellow Stretch Stitches ........ Making at the stitch lengl_ SECTION Stitch Width Control V ! 2 Stitch Length ContrOl 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance V Ler_gth Widlh 3 4 0 l Stretch The width The stitch. stitch width of the stitch higher control regulates the you select, the number, the wider The stitch length the stitches / Slitch length control of stitch, regulates the and also has a stretch 4- • -- setting. The higher the number, the longer stitch sewing, the stretch adjuster In stretch should usually be position (between position). the may stitch. w , "+" and When sewing need balance to .... , or • some fabrics, adjust the stitches stitch in a neutral this you control for appearance to sake. 0 means no feed. If design To select control NOTE: Stretch at Stretch When Stitches, you you select (blue), built-in make control at "Stretch the yellow around and blue this control. to orange, recommended the length adjust toward "-" until center design. the the control Rickrack design right toward design appears hand like the illustrations the control looks to be closed illustrations, "+" slightly like until turn stitching the as in the is as you desire. _L green, the seems open left, If sure do not set the stitch Study are stretch decorative or Stitch". stitch to Smocking (green) buttonhole lengh this Stitch. stitches that set stretch sections These zones of and color-coded stitches the stitch indicator pictured on panel. 21 SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Reverse Stitch Control Starting To Sew Now that you are familiar you are ready Reverse each time you sit down 1. with the controls to start to sew with your It should and thread Before placing be straight, being used. fabrics made of synthetic 2. and with the accessories sewing machine. Below provided for the machi_ are some good habits to foIff to sew: Inspect the needle. for the fabric on your machine new Kenmore properly Do not set and sharp on the point. be afraid to change your blends tend to dull the needles the material on the inches to the rear of the machine. machine, Hold see that more needle It should easily than fabrics the ends on to threads during be the correct frequently. Many made of natural fibers, of the threads have been drawn the sewing si of the n_ about of the first3or4stitchesoft seam. 3. To reverse stitch, trol during hold down Release to sew forward the machine this con4. sewing. Test the machine Fabric the again. should right be placed of stitch under edge of the material you plan to use. The fabric and tension the presser foot placed suitable to your with on the 5/8" the bulk should be double thickness. AdjL fabric. of the material seam marking to the left of the needle on the needle plate when making a sirnp seam. 5. Run the machine machine at a slow even speed. Fasten each seam by back 7. Always finish Guide that 9. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster l the fabric in such a_ will sew. 6. 8. 22 stitch on a scrap of fabric for the length When turning at the beginning sewing each seam with the fabric the normal tacking gently feeding with your the needle hand in front and end of the seam. at its highest point. of the needle. Never pull is altered. the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you. or hold SECTION3. Practical Stitch Stitch Stitch Selection Foot and Other % Darning plate STRAIGHT STRETCH Needle Thread Tension Stitch Length Stitch Width o Refer to Page Uses darning, 28 - 30, 48 - 49 good 3O Check Chart on p. 14 2-6 Orange Zone Check Chart onp. 14 2-6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Check Chart onp. 14 3-8 Orange Zone 1_5 Finish edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique, monogram, embroidery, sewing bar tacks. Check Chart onp. 14 2-6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 2-5 Decorate Check Chart 2-6 Orange Zone 2 -- 3 Use for finishing Regular searms, etc. zippers, topstltching, Zipper foot Straight III lu III In % Zigzag % Zigzag t % BLINO HEM STITCH Attach. Straight I I I I RICK-RACK STRETCH THE STITCHES Chart STRAIGHT ZIGZAG LEARN Zigzag % Use on knits and other stretch for topstitching. garments with seams. one row fabrics, or several 31 - 35 36 39 on p, 14 23 SECTION 3. LEARN Practical Stitch Chart Stitch THE STITCHES (Continued) Stitch Selection OVERCAST STRETCH Foot and Other Attach. Zigzag % <, <, THREE STEP ZIGZAG Zigzag % < .> SMOCKING STITCH Zigzag l %- SHELL STITCH SERGING Zigzag Needle 24 14 Stitch Length Stitch Width 3_5 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 0.5- Use for garments 1 Refer to Page Uses swimwear, that ski require pants and other 38 stretch. 37 Check Chart on p. 14 2-6 Check Chart onp. 14 2-6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3-5 Use in smocking Check Chart onp. 14 4_9 Orange Zone 3_5 Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings, Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam, Oo shell tucking on blouses and lingerie. 5O Blue (11 ) 3-6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3_5 Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings. Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to overcast and seam. Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie. 38 onp, % 2_6 Check Chart onD. Thread Tension 14 ; Use for finishing seams. or as a decorative stitch. 51 SECTION Stitch Stitch Selection BOX STITCHING Foot and Other Zigzag % ELASTIC STRETCH Zigzag < FAGOTING % Zigzag % STRETCH PATCHING Zigzag '1 % Attach, Needle Thread Tension Stitch Length Check Chort on p. 14 3_8 Orange Zone Check Chart 3~6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Check Chart on p. 14 3~8 0.5_2 Check Chart on_. 14 2-6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position Check Chart on p. 14 3_8 Orange Zone onp. 14 < Stitch Width 3_5 3-5 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Us_ Use for overlapping Use for applying seams. elastic. Refer to Page 53 53 Join two folded edges for decorative open*wor k appearance. 52 Use for patchwork 51 quilting, < TWO-POINT SHELL STITCHING Zigzag C_ % 3-5 Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie. This stitch can also be used as a single overlock stitch as well. 5O 25 SECTION 3. LEARN Practical Stitch Chart Stitch Stitch Selection HERRING BONE STRETCH THE STITCHES (Continued) Foot and Other Zigzag ¢ % TWO POINT BOX STITCH Zigzag L. Attach. Needle Thread Tension Stitch Length Stitch Width Refer Uses to Page Check Chart onp. 14 2-6 Yegow Stretch Stitch Position 3_5 Use as hemming stitch cloth and draperies. Check Chart 3 _ B Orange Zone 3-5 Use for overlapping Check Chart on p. 14 3_8 O_nge Zone 3_5 Use for Overedging. Check Chart on p. L4 3 _ S Green Zone 3_5 Decorate garments with one row or several, one stitch or a combination. 55 Check Chart on p. 14 3 N 8 0.5 2_5 Use for applique work, also as decorative finish for placemats, blankets, collars, cuffs and pockets. 32 for blankets, table- seams 52 54 on p.14 c r _ OVEREDGE Zigzag STITCH DECORATIVE GEOMETRICS SATIN 26 STITCH Satin _ 1 54 SECTION Stitch Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach, Sliding buttonhole _qKIIo Check Chert onp, 14 Thread Tension Stitch Length Stitch Width 2~6 Blue Zone 3_5 (Blue Zone) 3. LEARN Uses Buttonholes: also corded buttonholes. THE STITCHES Refer to Page 42 _ 43 BUTTONHOLE D Buttonhole Check Chart on p. 14 2~6 Raund-end buttonholes buttonholes. and keyhole 44 _ 47 % 97 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stitches Straight Stitch Use the Seam Guides Set the Machine Stitch width coT:: . J The CornF'rfflG seam guides are engraved Before sewing with foot, always set control to 0 to the straight the stitch stitch avoid width breaking 2. Stretch Raise the presser foot. the 3. Place to the edge a stitching needle Best sewing obtained stitch foot results with foot, will acceptable the but also results. the beginning may and want end of to reverse to Raise the presser foot are 1/8" apart, lines marked. seam with Turn a Square Corner and remove the fabric. to its highest 9. Cut the threads. are straight plate of the fabric guide line (5/8" next on the is most common). 4. zigzag Draw the threads toward the back and lower the presser foot. provide 5. Press the foot control. 6. Hold the fabric guide it along 1. loosely the To turn a square corner fabric and gently guide line, so [)o n=ot for_ce t.he fa_)ric or try pull it tight. to Stop stitching turning toward you when facing you lines Raise the guide, the fabric the 5/8" 3. and by cornering 2. .5/8" from the edge: needle that it feeds naturally. Lower stitching 28 to help you measure width. The lines the 5/8" and 7/8" plate position. Stitch H Straight foot NOTE; needle the J the needle lock the stitch. 8. Raise At seam, you the needle. 1. 7. qtJl_te on lower hand the fabric up with the wheel edge the as shown, presser foot to the edge with foot and begin line and turn seam guide• the presser in the new direction. SECTION • Use the Darning Plate 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Topstitching Set the Machine Stitch width DarNing 01ate \ 1234 Stitch length control orange "op thread tension control 2 to 6 Here's How zone 2 Sometimes when The Darning you Plate sew, covers you the feed want to control the dogs so that they do not fabric touch 1. Lower 2. Keep the edge yourself. the fabric. to To Put on the Darning NOTE: The Plate: rectangular needle plate. in the Darning darning plate, Plate these match holes the holes are slightly in the Stretch Stitch 3. to the 1. Position the darning 2. Fit darning the mark. plate with plate pins into the The feed dogs will show holes, Use the darning needle through plate holes the darning of the fabric edge of the next presser in the following ways: guide the fabric to produce 5/8" along an even from this row of the edge. at the plate The Stitch and tts Uses Topstitching plate right topstitehing H: Straight foot the pins on the bottom. Evenly edge right of center. 5/8" the foot. holes In the the presser foot. your emphasizes garment and keeps the lines seams of and edges flat and crisp. Darning Button (see page 30), Sewing (see page 35) Accent two suits or rows of blouses topstitching outer edges of cuffs, with one around or the lapels or collars. 29 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Straight Stretch Darning Set the Machine Sot the Machine oro Stitch width control O Stitch width 1 Top thread tension control 2 to6 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control any number (no_ necesF.3ry 2 3 4 Stitch length control yellow stretlth _titch to adjust) position Here's How 2 2 1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate (see page 29). No presser 2. foot (see Stretch Stitch 3. Darning Remove plate presser page foot 10), and stretch foot fabric holder between embroidery hoops with hole centered. Draw the bobbin fabric by holding one stitch thread up through the top thread at the spot where Stretch Stitch Stretch the H: Straight foot and taking you wish to The Stitch and Its Uses start darning. This 4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow speed. 5. Move the fabric back yo_ have covered 6. Turn the fabric the darning half layer of stitching NOTE: and forth turn of fabric the it. variation of 3O When you finish darning, remove the darning plate and replace foot holder and foot. fabrics It can be used on fabrics as well. It works and and other well on * curved seams garments deal of that will receive a great strain (ie. children's on any clothes). This stitch can also on all fabrics, be used for The stretch actually stitch stretch but forward action" the does net as it is being stitched back called stitch), when instead is and (sometimes give 7. was developed knits. sewn, damaged, under is the stretch the straight stitch, especially developed for knits and stretch fabrics. topstitching layer. is thin or badly use a separate piece hole to reinforce area. and sew antother over the first If your fabric slowly until stitch stitching to be used on stretch a so that fabric of breaking. in a motion "reverse• it will stretches SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Zigzag Stitches Basic Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control 1 to 5 Top thread tension ontrol :_ to 8 !ii il • Stitch length control orange zone Here's How There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch Consult the specific variations for detailed directions. Satin Stitch page 32, Applique Work page 33, Bar Tacking page 33, ° Stretch Stitch Monogramming page 34, Embroidery page 34, Button Sewing page 35, Overcasting page 36. A: Zigzag foot The Stitch The zigzag common your for and Its Uses stitch is one and most machine. versatile buttonholes, overcasting, can the mending ing. It with trims, appliques most stitches on It can be a utility sewing buttons, ming, of stitch hem- and darn- also be used to decorate or as a decorative and cut-out work stitch. 31 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Zigzag Stitches (Continued) • Satin Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width Top thread tension control 3 lo_ Zigzag width Stitch length Stitch length control 05 to 1 2 4 ( CIos, _ It3 0 Stretch Stitch F: Satin stitch foot Pressure dia!: The Stitch The Satin used I or and Ifs Uses stitch decorative is a versatile stitch, but and often Here's How it can also he used to overcast a raw edge (for ex- Once ample, linens, of the fabric blankets, tablecloths weight and napkins). ]'he Satin in applique. 32 stitch is especially attractive your machine fabrics, is set up to stitch, you are planning you may want to use. Too tight satin to experiment stitch on a fragment may pucker some light SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Bar Tacking Applique r Set the Machine Set the Machine con ro,2,o © Stitch width Stitch width 1 2 3 4 control 2 to 5 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Fop thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length 05 to t control Baste (or joiner) applique Stitch sure Stretch F: around the iron-on fabric This stitch on the fabric. satin stitch the applique falls along making the outer Stretch Stitch sewing corners, clown into 2_- needle with pieces edge of the applique. When Satin stitch foot Pressure dial: Stitch fuse Stitch length control 05 to t foot and the fabric. pivot the is similar and strain to a very is used to poi_lts of pockets and straps on lingerie. such short reinforce as corners or Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches lower the needle Raise the presser fabric to the right A: Zigzag foot or left. 33 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Zigzag Stitches (Continued} • Monogramming _t Embroidery the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width 1 2 3 Stitch width control 1 to 5 HA 4 I TOp thread tension control \ 2 In 6 \ Stitch Fop thread tension control 2 to6 length control 05 2 tl! I 2 3 Stitch length control Any number Inot necessary to adjust) F: Satin StitCh Stitch Here's How Here's How 1. Set the same as satin stitch. 2. Back the fabric with plate paper or o_ I I interfacing, Stretch 4 3. Draw the letters on the fabric with tailor's chalk. 4. Satin stitch, width as necessary foot adjusting to the form stitch each No pre_er foot Darning JJ4 2. Remove 3. Adjust Stretch Stitch holder (see page 10). stitch 4. Draw the design with tailor's chalk. 5. Stretch plate_ dery If using paper, carefully remove it when you have finished sewing. foot the width as desired (see page 21 ), pattern. 5. (see page 29), the fabric hoops and on to the between place fabric embroi- under the needle. 6. Lower the presser foot lever to engage the top thread tension. 7. Holding hand, the top rotate you one complete Putl the bobbin thread the hand in your wheel left toward turn. top thread to thread through to the surface draw the of the fabric. 8. Using the a medium marked fabric carefully 34 speed, outline, by hand. stitch along £uiding the SECTION • 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Sew a Button S_t the Machine Stitch width control M_sr be adjusled Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control Any number (not necessary to adjust) Use the darning plate 1. Match the center for button sewing of the button (see page 29). To hoJes to the center of the slot on the presser foot. 2, Stretch Stitch 3. Adjust Lower Turn Zigzag foot the stitch width so that needle will drop in each hole. the foot to hold the button the hand wheel by hand so needle enter the sllank, cut the a B" tail. Bring the needle thread down in the button and wind Draw will leaving through the hole it around the bottom side shank. in place. that strengthen threads either hole of the the thread to the and knot. button. A: t_ Darning pla 4. Stitch several times. 35 SECTION 3. LEARN Zigzag Stitches THE STITCHES (Continued) Rick-Rack Overcasting Stitch Stretch Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 5 Stitch width © 1 2 3 4 , control 3 to 5 "Op thread Top thread tension control 2 to 6 tension control [_ Io tt Stitch length ;o_toro, Stitch length cor_tro[ orange Helpful Start Hints overcasting raw corner right up Stretch Stitch about of your at the edge, and the yellow stretch stitch position 1/8" inside seam, If you the fabric stitches will will the you might bunch This stitch become top stitch Stretch Stitch The Stitch A: This and Its Uses zigzag garment variation is very useful construction raw edges of any sewing 36 and in finishing project. in and Its Uses Sew on stretch start tangled: A: Zigzag foot The Stitch Zigzag foot fabrics in any area that use a zigzag stitch can be used as a decoratwe as well SECTION3. Three-Step LEARN THE S:FITCHES Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control5 1234 Fop thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0 5 to 1 Seam Finishing (Overcasting) Place the fabric so that the right Stretch A Stitch under the edge will Mending the presser foot be slightly inside Position that the tear under the stitching will the catch needle both so sides. hand side of the presser foot. Guide the stitches fall at the edge of the fabric• work so the right hand Zigzag foot J The Stitchand Its Uses The three-step zigzag zigzag and straight the three-step would has more flatter zigzag use the basic strength, than a regular The three-step ly useful is a combination stitch. You may use everywhere z,gzag you stitch. elasticity, It and is zigzag. z_gzag stitch is especial- for mending sewing patches smoothly and securely repairing straight finishing seams tears. 37 SECTION 3. LEARN THESTITCHES, Zigzag Stitches (Continued) Overcast Stretch Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching Set the Machine Set the Machine Stitch width Stitch width control 3 !o5 Top thlead tension control 2 Io 6 Top thread tension control 3 to (3 Stitch length control \ tl(_rl Here's Place How the raw the LEFT Stitch edge of the Stretch Stitch so the needle pierces Or, place seam, your then and Its Uses stitch seam with can can be used for an overcast seam one operation It can be you are swimwear, and other stretch 38 _s formed garments sewing a finish. The making Place fabric trim foot and be the fabric to allow seam m used when that ski pants require NOTE: Stretch Stitch a 5/8" allowance further he Stitch Use Use a blue needle, under the the stitches presser are stretch which prevents skipped fabric effectively stitches. narrow press seams this on heavyweight want stitch when you you do not flat. It is ideal knits or woven a narrow for making elastic using fabric, use a blue fabric needle skipped and Its Uses seam that open When stretch effectively garments prevent raveling. NOTE: finished to fabric made edge. edges of older overcast the so that over theedge. A: Zigzag foot Raw or worn This to after. Zigzag foot The Stitch fabric Here's.How of the needle as shown. just short of the outside A Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position yellow str etc'h stitch I_O';I Stitchim on fabrics seam. swim It want a need to for 1/4" medium to where you is also great wear. kmt stretch which prevents stitches. SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Blind Hemming Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 3 1/4" © Woi_ . Top thread tension control 2 Stitch length control o_ange 10 \ \ ZQI_t? \ Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot 1. Finish the raw edge of your 2. Measure, turn up your NOTE: For light 3. the material Fold weight hem an,/way you desire. (See overcrasting page 36). hem and pin. fabrics, (bottom you may need a double side out) on the edge fold. to be stitched, as shown, leaving 1/4- of the finished hem edge showing. 4. 5. Place garment stitch should under After hemming, just catch presser foot the fold press both in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag of the garment. sides of the finished hem. The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches. 39 SECTION 3, LEARN THE STITCHES Lace Work Set the Machine Stitch top thread tension contrn! 2 t_ L_ •• \, width Stitch length Control . l Stretch Stitch YY Lace A Zigzag foot to adds blouses a fanciful, and and pillows become when trimmed with Turn raw edge of fabric 5/8". Place feminine lingerie. touch Table more linens elegant lace, under lace underneath at least and top- stitch using stretch blind hem stitch. Trim excess fabric close to stitching. 4O SECTION Buttonhole • Learning With to Sew Buttonholes your Kenmore You automatic sewing may machine use the buttonhole you have two methods built-in system or you attachment system. ; of making Tips on buttonholing may use the Always use. 1. the buttonhole Built-in Choose this need only buttonhole with use an interfacing Tissue paper or regular (rectangular). style for waistband, one or two a practice on a scrap of fabric the button you plan to you will use. in area of garment where buttonholes are placed. style bottonholes make Try the buttonhole Always Choose LEARN THE STITCHES Making buttonholes. snap-in 3. cuffs, belt slots or where stitching, you will For heavier buttons. interfacing can be used. Tear paper away after if it is used.. weight fabrics, loosen your top thread tension slightly. _J 2. Round end Choose vests, 3. jackets Keyhole Choose buttonholes this style for need more No. 213504005, buttonholes 213505006). on dresses, blouses, or coats. buttonholes this (Template series of style room (Template for tailored for button No. 213506007). vests, jackets, coats or any time you shank. 41 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Buttonhole Making (Continued) • Built-in System Set the Machine Stitch width control i_ lfl IRlue zone1 0 _ 2 S 345 Stitch control +-._,L",_,4 length 2 I. a. Carefully mark the buttonhole 2. a. Move length on your garment. b. Change slider to the sliding buttonhole foot. tO_) thr_all the so that slider (A) the top meets the start b. Line up foot with the ,, ,L_q ' Sli(lin t. c. Stitch 9 buttonhole foot Insert the garment under the foot with the buttonhole marking running toward markings the top mark c. NOTE: Lower Adlust,ng the Stitch Depending upon alter the FOr less toward"l"+ 2. For the density, you stitch buttonhole dial. turn the dial turf! the dial a prachce on a scrap to suitable '+,r he._vy ::; fabric use to find stitch length. but- :! : _ ',htth_+_ _ h,, ,lab, t ha)rl< make tonhole _.) q"'_'_° +,h,,r _ "0", Always ptan blue length density, mo,e or your buttonhole within I fabric buttonholes, in range on the stitch toward Density your owT_ preference 42 3. a, Set the stitch on selector b. Sew folwatd (B). front until marking of at you you{ _'I reach the button. hole. the ,_ " you the mote Stretch Stitch on your the presser foot. The markings are engraved NOTE: mark garment. you. f+i derisory you (C) on the tefl'_Fon Stretch may toward mark 4 on the slider in centimeters. e Stop sewlltg at the left shteh SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES J m ,_ Set the stitch selector at 1,1 5. a. Set the stitch b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c Stop sewing h. Sew until at the right buttonhole and sewin reverse( stitch• foot as illustrated [_* _]-_-_-[_] you reach at the I'1 back of ). Stop sewing 6 a. Set the stitch selector at J_l b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. 7. Remove c. Stop at the right sewing at the left stitch. the fabric and cut the 4 hole opener the buttonhole. ¢. sliding selector open with in your the buttonhole accessory storage box. stitch. '' 43 SECTION 3. Buttonhole • LEARN Making THE STITCHES (Continued) Using Buttonhole Attachment Buttonhole Attachment For more hole attachment your machine attachment varied Buttonhole System and accurate buttonholes, and templates. Know properly. You will you will enjoy using the parts read carefully need these items for the how the Style and Size buttonto set up Round End _ Keyhole buttonhole system. Ru ttonf_ole Gl_ide _ [_uttonhole s_ot / MeaStl rerflerl Template t 213504005 213505006 213506007 3/8" 1/2" 15/16" 7/8" 5/8" 13/16" 1-1/4" 1-1/2" marking Buttonhole wide plate NOTE: Illustrations buttonhole length Guide block templates [ ever Gear Base plate Buttonholefoot 44 easily of buttonhole to be sewn. by on the template. Buttonhole Pin_ 1-1/16" 1-1/16" Sizes Catch matching on You will template 1-1/4" 1-3/8" show actual find the most suitable the button with the proper length buttonhole illustration' of SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 ' "Top thread I (:c_ntrol 2 Pins (A) <I tension zJ'" \ l=_ G Stitch length ftook 2 R_C tSt]£]lJ hlr h I][t_ "_ _ Stretch Buttonhole Helpful can =60 _ NOTE: a. Remove the extension b. Raise the needle to its high,.=st position. c. Remove d. Pull bobbin thread e. Insert of base plate f. Pull lever back g. Snap the foot IIb]t' table. holder. Stitch out about 3" straight back toward rear of machine. foot Hints You bobbin 1. contrOIo_j_ I_Js' obtain --80 best light results weight to use threads as thread. It two hook base plate round holes into rectangular to align the hook down to fit two with pins hole of needle plate. the rectangular (A) at the back hob. of base plate into (B) on needle plate. Release lever. is advisable stretch fabric sewing knits to use a blue needle and when synthetic fabrics. You can obtain with a wider setting control the buttonholes cutting stitch at 1.5 instead space by width of 2. 45 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Buttonhole Making (Continued) /-Buttonhole guide plate Top thread Template Gear _,_ GiJid Slot @ I / "C_tcb Setting Mark ',\ \ Gqide Starting block plate 2. a. b. c. When you have selected the template hole you need, slide the template Pull catch toward you while with the size and style the template hole size you have chosen is at the setting mark. Insert into into gear of base plate button- into the guide plate. sliding slot of template until the button- and fit guide block 3. a. Attach the buttonhole b. Adjust position of l foot. gear so it is aligned with the starting point of template. The lever can be used to change c. the center of the guide slot. Pull the toward d. bobbin thread you while Place the bobbin holding and top Leave 3 to 4 inches 46 _)[)qgl Bobbin thread gear position. up through top threads of thread. guide slot by turning the hand thread. to the left side of guide plate, whee! SECTION 5. a. Lower b, Start c. Allow d. sewing to do the work to guide the fabric.) Stop when To release the by itself. the needle returns buttonhole base plate, pull the a. b. Mark your Placing buttonhole your position garment behind carefully the and the buttonhole foot as shown. c. Align marked buttonhole with center d Line up your fabric plate just in front e Pierce the fabric edge with with insert marking foot lever toward by turning it between the If line you want your on buttonhole ut_ the fabric with to be the the stitch length markings foot, I! 2 fabrics Fine stitches for light on the guide Stitch control as shown. the needle at the beginning buttonhole and lift guide length 4 _2 of the buttonhole. for NOTE you it begins, the stitch density 2_ the measurement of the buttonhole where on the garment. machine, plate to the position the machine, You may alter the closeness of the stitches control from 4 to 3. 4 THE STITCHES slowly. the machine sewing LEARN foot. (Do not try base plate off Adjusting the buttonhole 3. 1/2 inch the 1/2 inch markings from the garment each time edge, you start to sew heavy fabrics 4 1__" " @ Coar_estitches a buttonhole, Stretch Stitch 47 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Sew in a Zipper Fabric Preparation : Set the Machine Put the top sides of the fabric and sew opening. to the Use end the of reverse the to _(1/8") Stitch width together /Zi_lper te_th zipper lock Zipper the tape stitches. Sew the length zipper at "4" opening and top with thread stitch tension at "3". "op thread tension control 2 [o 6 End of _ont rol 2 2 ()pening To Sew: _3 _ Stitch 1. , 'L _,f f,qt_r i_ 5. Stretch Stitch [upedge - To attach 3. the zipper Reset stitch length at 2 and top thread tension at 2 to 6, Fold back the left seam allowance as shown. Turn under ance to form E: Zipper foot of fabric 4. len_h the 5. right seam allow a 1/8" fold. 6. Place the zipper teeth next to the 1/8"fold and pin in place. _ attach !i!_" t' t'Tn,'dq st,de_J The ifin on the h?f [ hand side the presser on the zipper • side of the zipper, the presser bar to the left pins on the zipper 48 pins foot. To sew on the right attach bar to the right foot. bar to the right Lower foot the zipper the bottom so that the needle pierces and the zipper tape. Sew the slider Lower through of on the top side at fabric •,--.4_ the presser foot. zipper 7. foot: Attach pins on the zipper fold tape to the point the zipper the fold and the where the begins, the needle to hold and raise the presser foot. the SECTION3. LEARNTHESTITCHES i / Top side of fabric Top side of fabric J 8. 9. Open Lower 10. the zipper. the presser foot and stitch Close fabric the top zipper and turn the 11. Remove attach side up, the rest of the seam, 12. zipper presser foot bar to pins on the zipper foot. Stitch below tom 13. the the Turn across and the bot- and continue to foot along the as shown. Stitch through the zipper about 2" from the top of the zipper. Lower the needle into the fabric and raise the presser foot. 16. corner teeth, 14. Stop 15. the of the zipper, guide zipper and the left Remove open 17. Lower the basting stitches the foot and stitch the rest of the seam. Make sure the'fold the fabric and and the zipper. is even, tape. 49 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Shell Stitching Two-Point Shell Stitching F Set the Machine Stitch width 3 to Set the Machine Stitch width control ,4! © I 2 3 4 I Top thread control y tension Top thread tension control 3 to S Stitch length 1 hi _) control i_rarlge He re'1;.H_o w ZOne , _: " ":"S_ ,,, ii, It 1. Stitch length control _ran_ e zon(_ For best effect: set the stitch length as you desire. - NN F Satin you - allow 2. Its Uses Stitch blind hem rows of shell folded stitching bv sewing fabric. a Several are called shell tucks• stitching can be used hems, sleeve and neck Shell tucking scalloped lingerie 5O can tucks be used on to finish openings. to create blouses and You wovens Stitch Stretch Stitch just edge of the sew rows of shell stitches, can sew Shell soft silky to it zigzags. space the rows 5/8" is formed over If you the slightly. needle fabric when Tile Stitchand Shell the clear the folded stitch foot The Shell may need to tighten top thread tension Stretch Stitgh This stitch single overlock apart. on knits or in any direction. A: Zigzag foot can also stitch be as well. used as a SECTION the THE STITCHES Set the Machine Machine Stitch width Stitch width control 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 control °op thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length stretch Stdch 5 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch position The Stitch pOSltiOrl _ LEARN Stretch Patching Smocking Set 3. ,1 _3 For and its Uses patching worn out elbows or knees. Stretch Stitch Stretch Stitch A Zigzag A: Zigzag foot foot With the stitch straight length stitching at lines "4". sew 3/8" apart across the area to be smocked. Knot the the gathers the threads bobbin evenly. other stitch along threads end. between Loosen tension Pult the Secure the threads Sew the decorative the gathering Pull out the gathering NOTE: one edge. and distribute the to at stitches. stitches. top make thread gathering easier. 51 SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Fagoting Stitch Set the Herring Bone Stretch f Machine Set the Machine Stitch width Stitch width © I _l control5 TOp thread tension control _ !,_ \, Stitch 3 4 control 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 length control 2 Stitch length (l S t_ 2 Here's How •l, si_ 1. Fold under each fabric edge 5/8" _ pusi stretch stitch tiorl 2 Here's How contro_ yelh_w Place and press. 2. Stretch Stitch Pin the Sew so the A: Zigzag foot Use fabric this appearance 52 two edges slowly, needle to join create to 1/8" guiding catches edge on each side. and Its Uses stitch to 3/8" tear away backing 3.. The Stitch paper or the fabric the folded two and add design pieces open of work interest. the fabric from top side prevent _ A: Use Stretch Stitch Zigzag foot and Its Uses as hemming tablecloth stitch and draperies. for blankets, up, and sew the edge. Trim close to stitching. apart. The Stitch at1 ,< raveling. The stitchwill SECTION3. ElasticStretch Set the Stitch Box Stitching Set the Machine Machine Stitch width ToD control thread Stitch width / tension _! I_ • Stitch length control LEARNTHESTITCHES yellow _tretch stitch rop thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length p_S_tlon Use i ,lll this stitch to join heavy weight interlining. Overlap two use this stitch Stretch raw edges together and to join them Stitch Stretch Stitch A Zigzag foot A: Zigzag foot Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments. 1. Mark match 2. the elastic these into to the quarters center and front, center back and side seams. Place the middle of the elastic under the center of the presser foot and stitch sure the elastic into place, is evenly making distri- buted. 53 SECTION3. Two-point LEARN THE STITCHES Box Stitch Overedging Stitch f Set the Machine Set t_e Machine Stitch width Stitch © I 2 3 4 control :oo thread tension control _ Io Stitch control Stretch A: Zigzag foot 54 width 3 to 5 control Top thread tension control 3 to 8 length orarlge 3 to 5 Stitch length control or ;lRge This stitch is useful for elastic fabrics This stitch can be used for a over- to join them together. edgingstitch, Stitch Stretch A: Zigzag foot Stitch ,SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Decorate with Geometric Patterns Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 iI, Top thread tension control 3 Io8 '\ Stitch length control green zone Here's How 1. 2. Stretch 3. Stitch Tile Stitches and T!leir Uses These stitches are purely You can sew one row decorative. or several or vary the stitch width and length special effects. Experiment on a scrap of fabric to see what for Practice effects stitch width and tength the stitch as lines on a scrap of" fabric. Mark the fabric, using 4. Lower the needle at the starting 5. Lower the presser foot. 6. Gently maked special the you desire. o F: Satin stitch foot Adjust for decoration a washable guide the on fabric fabric the marker. point. along the line. are possible. 55 SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART What to Do When PROBLEM PROBABLECAUSE Incorrect CORRECTION size needle. Ch'oose correct size needle Rethread machine. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. hregtHar Stttches Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. B_eakmg Rtmch,_g Pucker ing Needle of Thread Tighten upper thread tension. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently. Reset presser foot. Rewind bobbin, Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Do not Choose Incorrect setting of needle, Loose presser foot. Reset needle, Reset presser Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser foot before starting seam. When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few sthches are formed. Incorrect Reset thread thread tension. Using two different sizes or kinds Bent or blunt needle. Loose presserfoot. Fabric too sheer or too soft. 56 for thread and fabric of thread. pull fabric; guide it gently. correct size needle for thread and fabric. foot. tension. Upper thread and bobbin Insert new needle. thread should Reset presserfoot. Use underlay of tissue paper. be same size and kind. SECTION;-4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE t_correct size needle, Bent or blunt needle. Sk;ppmg Stitches Breaking Breaking Fabric Uppel Bobbin Jamming Knocking Noise thread Loosen upper thread tension. Choose correct size needle for lhread Sharp Nicks Insert new needle. Replace needle plate, off eye in needle. or burrs at hole of needle plate. race. clutch is disengaged. Thread caught in hook race. Lint in bobbin holder or hook race. and fabric. tension. Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle. Darning plate in place. Stitch Length set at O. Thread knotted under fabric. not Moving upper Start to stitch at a medium Rethread machine. Improper bobbin threading. Lint in bobbin holder or hook Thread Loosen for thread Starting to stitch too fast. improper threading. Push-pull Machine Choose correct size needle Insert new needle. Reset needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension. Thlead CORRECTION speed. or polish Check bobbin threading. Clean bobbin holder and hook Remove darning plate. Adjust Stitch Length Control. Place both threads back under to stitch. Push in the clutch. and fabric. burrs completely. race• presser foot before beginning Disassemble and clean hook race. Clean bobbin holder and hook race. 57 SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE" Replace the Light Bulb Clean the Bobbin Holder To insure essential that The bobbin or knock Lh_plug the machine and open your machine operates at its best, you need to keep the parts clean at all times. area can attract loudly if a thread dust and lint. Your machine can become sluggish is caught. the {;_cP covPr CALITION I The hght HOT bulb will Protect fill(l(!1 _ handle be f yotlr when _t Follow I. Ptl,h l)tllb the bulb [:otirlter tip cover Dlate %/O11 and clockwise turn to the Turn off Remove firmly the 58 new ttlt[)if_g btdb in by tt clockwise. or unplug 5. the bobbin pulling pushingit 3 Remove cover it toward the bobbin. plate by you. or vacuum the machine, 2. up arid the power Brush out of the bobbin remove it Put 4. these directions: Replace the bobbin. the dust and lin_ holder B Slide on the bobbin pushing _t into cover plate h¥ the grooves. SECTION Oiling the Machine Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs Open face cover two drops Remove L Unplug the machine the presser foot 2. 3. Remove Remove the and remove 5. bobbin cover Take out bobbin and needle. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE 5. the bobbin. holder Lift and remove of oil plate and oil points as shown below at least once a year, Oneor is sufficient. excess oil, othenNise it may stain fabrics. up the it. plate. the screw on the left side of the needle with the large screw driver. 4. Remove the needle plate In case machine extended time, Use good quality No other oiling Above require 6. Use the feed dogs, holder. cloth. lint brush hook Also to clean the race and bobbin use a soft. dry 7. Line up the the bobbin next to red marks used it before sewing machine for an sewing. oil. is required are only area which on this machine. and place holder so the knob the stopper points oiling is not oil fits in the hook race, as shown above. 59 PARTS LIST l" 1 2 4 3 5 % % 8 9 7 lO 12 i! 13 14 / ./ 15 16 17 18 19 2O G 6O All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears Roebuck and Co. store or service center. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: 1. 2. 3. 4. handling. to MODEL NUMBER NAME OF ITEM a No, 1 2 3 PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION If the parts you need are not transmitted Ref. Sears stocked Repair 4 locally, Parts your Distribution order will be electronically Center for expedited 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Part No. Description "20-6868 102403202 813404013 6551 6552 6553 Bobbin 6554 652806003 685502008 825813005 823803006 822804118 *6864 6797 820832005 41669 box with 10 bobbins Spool No. pin felt fabric needles No. 1 1 Single 1 1 Stretch needles (ORG) No. 14 Single needles (RED) No. 1B Single needles (PUB) No. 18 Single needles (GRN) Straight (BLU) foot Zigzag foot Sliding buttonhole Zipper foot Satin stitch Needle Light foot foot threader bulb Large screw driver Small screw driver 802424004 6830 *6889 Lint brush 652802009 213502003 213501002 Darning 213504005 213505006 213506007 213503004 Template (Round end small) Template _Round end large) Template (Keyhole) Buttonhole opener Oil and lint brush plate Buttonhole guide plate Base plate Buttonhole foot * These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per instructions above. 61 INDEX A Accessory storage box .............. Appliqueing ................... 2, 8 23, 33 Fabric, needle, thread and stitch length chart ....................... 23, 33 Face cover plate ............ Fagoting ..................... Feed dogs ...................... Foot control .................... Free arm sewing ................. B Bar tacking ................... Base ........................... Base plate ............... Basic zigzag ................... Blind hemming .............. Bobbin ............ Bobbin holder .............. Bobbin thread ................. Bobbin winding 4. 48, 60_61 23, 31 23, 39_40 4, 15_16, 58, 60_61 16, 58"59 18_19 .................. ............ Buttonhole Buttonhole Buttonhole attachment foot ......... guide plate ........ Buttonhole Buttonhole making opener 2, 15 25, 53 27, 41 27, 41, 44 4, 13, 27, 44_45 4, 27, 44, 60"-61 .............. ......... Buttonhole template ...... Button sewing ................. 41_47 4, 43, 60_61 3, 18 26, 52 59 L Lace work ...................... Large screw driver ............. Light and power switch ............. Light bulb ................. Lint brush .................. 40 4, 60"-'61 3, 5 57, 60_61 4, 58_61 M 4, 27, 44, 60"--61 23, 35 Monogramming ................ 23, 34 N C Cabinet Hand wheel .................... Herring bone stretch ............. Hook race ...................... ......................... Changing needle .................. Changing presser foot ............ Cleaning hook race and feed dogs Cornering guide .................. 2 I0"_'I ...... 14 I 59 28 D Darning .................. 23, 29, 31 Darning plate ..... 4, 29, 31, 34_35, 60_61 Decorative geometric patterns ....... 26, 55 Needle ................ 13_14, 60"61 Needle clamp ................... 3, 14 Needleptate ................... 2, 16 Needle, thread and fabric chart ........ 14 Needle threading ............... 17_18 O Oiling ......................... Overcasting stitch ................. Overcast stretch ................ Overedging stitch ............... 59 36 24, 38 26, 54 62 2, 22, 28 23, 36 S Satin stitch foot .................... ....... 4, 12, 24, 26, 32_34, 50, 55, Sating stitching ................ Seam guides ..................... Serging ...................... Serging or pine leaf stretch ......... Sewing light ...................... Shell stitching ................. Sliding buttonhole foot ............... .............. 4, 12, 27, 42_43, Small screw driver ............. 4, Smocking .................... Snap-on button ................. Spool pin felt .............. 4, 7, Spool pins ...................... Stitch length control .............. Stitch selector .................. 60_61 26, 32 28 24, 38 24, 38 5 24, 50 60_61 60"61 24, 51 3, 10 60_61 , 2, 7 2, 21 1 3, 20 Stitch width control .............. 2, 21 Straight stitching ............ 23, 28_29 Straight stitch foot ................... .............. 4, 11,23, 28_30, 60_61 Straight stretch stitching .......... 23, 30 Stretch patching ................ 25, 51 Stretch stitch adjuster ............. 3, 21 T E Elastic stretch ................. Embroidery ................... Extension table .................. 3, 5 23_27 6 3, 10"_13 3, 7 3, 15 R Reverse stitch control .......... Rick-rack stretch stitching ......... H 15 Bobbin winding spindle Box stitching .................. Buttonhole ................... .... 14 2. 6, 58_59 25, 52 59 3, 5 8_9 Power switch .................... Practical stitch chart ............. Pressure control dial ................ Presser foot ................. Presser foot lever ................. Push-pull clutch ................. 25, 53 23, 34 2, 8 Parts list ..................... Performance problems ............ Plug connector ................... Portable case ..................... 60"61 56_57 3, 5 2 Take-up lever ................... Thread cutter .................... Thread guide ................. Three-step zigzag ............... Topstitching .................. 2, 17 2, 7 2_3, 17 24, 37 23, 29 ]'{_p thread Tnt} thread lop thread ................... tension .............. tension control ....... Turning a sqtJare corner "fwo point box stitching Two-point Zigzag ..... Zigzag Zigzag Zipper Zipper shell stitching 17_20 19"-20 2, 19_20 ............. ........... 28 26. 54 .......... 25, 50 foot ........................ 11. 23_26, 31, 3.5"40, 50._53. 60"..61 stitching ............. 23, 31_36 overcasting ................. 36 application ........... 23, 48_4g foot ...... 4, 12, 23, 48_49, 60_61 63 MEMO MEMO WARRANTY # ._= FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY For 25 years from m the mecha.lical ON SEWING the date of purchase, components MACHINE HEAD Sears will, free of charge, repair of the sewing machine defects in material or workmanship which appear ÷ head. = FULL For TWO YEAR two appear = in the For 90-DAY 90 necessary = from the electrical ON ELECTRICAL date of equipment purchase, of the EQUIPMENT Sears will, sewing free of machine, OF SEWING charge, including repair MACHINE defects electronic in material components, or workmanship motor, wiring, which switch days .= WARRANTY from for proper WARRANTY SERVICE CENTER/DEPARTMENT This warranty # and speed control. FULL = years WARRANTY ON ALL the date PARTS of purchase, operation of the sewing AND MECHANICAL Sears will. machine, IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING IN THE UNITED STATES. gives you specific legal rights, SEARS, free of except charge, for normal AND replace any CO., D/817 parts and provide mechanical service # maintenance. THE SEWING MACHINE and you may also have other ROEBUCK ADJUSTMENTS rights which WA, Hoffman TO THE NEAREST vary horn Estates, SEARS SERVICE state to state. IL 60179 # = SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit. The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS *MODEL *NAME OF ITEM "PART DESCRIPTION NUMBER GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling. SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 S-385 Printed in Taiwan plate on the back of transmitted to a Sears U.S.A. Part No. 652-800-409 (_